Library handicraft at Greeley, Colorado.

Mode of access: Internet.

Moderneja ryijyjä, metritavaraa ja käsityötä : Tekstiilitaide ja nykyaikaistuva taideteollisuus Suomessa maailmansotien välisenä aikana

Modern ryijys, fabric by the yard and handicrafts. Finnish textile art and modernizing applied art during the inter-war years Textile art was in the 1920s and 1930s in the front rank of Finnish applied art and design. Modern ryijys, tapestries and fabrics by the yard by contemporary textile artists were on show in Finland and abroad. Textile art had also become interesting commercially, especially in interior textiles of modern homes. The research uses sources of the Ornamo Association of Decorative Artists, for example the Ornamo year books published from 1927, the Finnish Society of Crafts and Design and the country s only school of applied arts, the Central School of Arts and Crafts and the Museum of Applied Arts maintained by the society and also the national specialist organisation the Friends of Finnish Handicraft. It also refers to the magazines Käsiteollisuus and Kotiliesi. The art historical dissertation studies the renaissance of weaving art of the inter-war years in Finland. It problematizes the relation of the succesfull and appreciated textile art to the concept of breakthrough of Modernism (Functionalism). With the material from textile artists activities it questions the prevailing idea of slow modernization of Finnish applied art and design and challenges the polarization of craft and industry in the discourses of Modernisms of design. The public discussions about modernization of design and applied art where textile art and especially the ryijy got sometimes into difficult positions are interpreted as power struggles. After taking independence in 1917 the Finnish tradition of ryijy rugs was set as a symbol of the original culture of the young nation. The research studies the development of the so called art ryijy and the notions and meanings of hand weaving in the national context and also in relation to contemporary events in international applied art and design. It highlights the continuity of hand crafted production of textiles and the strong position of textile artists working in this field. The research opens new perspectives to Finnish textile artists by showing their activities as entrepreneurs in their own weaving studios or design studios and referring to their many relations and functions as pattern designers and educators in the growing handicraft industries.

Assessing organizational culture in complex sociotechnical systems : Methodological evidence from studies in nuclear power plant maintenance organizations

Failures in industrial organizations dealing with hazardous technologies can have widespread consequences for the safety of the workers and the general population. Psychology can have a major role in contributing to the safe and reliable operation of these technologies. Most current models of safety management in complex sociotechnical systems such as nuclear power plant maintenance are either non-contextual or based on an overly-rational image of an organization. Thus, they fail to grasp either the actual requirements of the work or the socially-constructed nature of the work in question. The general aim of the present study is to develop and test a methodology for contextual assessment of organizational culture in complex sociotechnical systems. This is done by demonstrating the findings that the application of the emerging methodology produces in the domain of maintenance of a nuclear power plant (NPP). The concepts of organizational culture and organizational core task (OCT) are operationalized and tested in the case studies. We argue that when the complexity of the work, technology and social environment is increased, the significance of the most implicit features of organizational culture as a means of coordinating the work and achieving safety and effectiveness of the activities also increases. For this reason a cultural perspective could provide additional insight into the problem of safety management. The present study aims to determine; (1) the elements of the organizational culture in complex sociotechnical systems; (2) the demands the maintenance task sets for the organizational culture; (3) how the current organizational culture at the case organizations supports the perception and fulfilment of the demands of the maintenance work; (4) the similarities and differences between the maintenance cultures at the case organizations, and (5) the necessary assessment of the organizational culture in complex sociotechnical systems. Three in-depth case studies were carried out at the maintenance units of three Nordic NPPs. The case studies employed an iterative and multimethod research strategy. The following methods were used: interviews, CULTURE-survey, seminars, document analysis and group work. Both cultural analysis and task modelling were carried out. The results indicate that organizational culture in complex sociotechnical systems can be characterised according to three qualitatively different elements: structure, internal integration and conceptions. All three of these elements of culture as well as their interrelations have to be considered in organizational assessments or important aspects of the organizational dynamics will be overlooked. On the basis of OCT modelling, the maintenance core task was defined as balancing between three critical demands: anticipating the condition of the plant and conducting preventive maintenance accordingly, reacting to unexpected technical faults and monitoring and reflecting on the effects of maintenance actions and the condition of the plant. The results indicate that safety was highly valued at all three plants, and in that sense they all had strong safety cultures. In other respects the cultural features were quite different, and thus the culturally-accepted means of maintaining high safety also differed. The handicraft nature of maintenance work was emphasised as a source of identity at the NPPs. Overall, the importance of safety was taken for granted, but the cultural norms concerning the appropriate means to guarantee it were little reflected. A sense of control, personal responsibility and organizational changes emerged as challenging issues at all the plants. The study shows that in complex sociotechnical systems it is both necessary and possible to analyse the safety and effectiveness of the organizational culture. Safety in complex sociotechnical systems cannot be understood or managed without understanding the demands of the organizational core task and managing the dynamics between the three elements of the organizational culture.

Käsityöläisyyden kuva kultasepän ammatissa : Käsityöläisyys Suomen Kultaseppien Liiton lehdessä 1990-luvun lopussa

The aim of this study is to survey the meaning of craftmanship in goldsmith occupation. The image of craftmanship is built theoretically as well as researcher's own practical experience. The study describes a dialogue between self-employed goldsmith s everyday work and trade union's opinion. Suomen Kultaseppien Liitto (The Goldsmith Assosiation of Finland) was chosen forthe trade union, because it is the biggest, the oldest and the most influential on the occupational area. The research data are volumes 1995 - 1998 of occupational membership journal of Suomen Kultaseppien Liitto. The data analyzed with Adapted Content Analysis and Grounded Theory. The professional occupation of goldsmiths, the role of craftmanship and the future of the occupation are discussed. Additionally, the relationship between the Suomen Kultaseppien Liitto and occupational culture and profession of goldsmiths was studied. Craft and craftmanship is most often discussed in articles related to tradition and education.Craftmanship is understood very idealistically, with little meaning in practical life. St. Eligius and the skill and art of goldsmiths in St Petersburg are raised to symbols of craftmanship. The occupational image is broken and a clear conflict between education and occupation is visible. Education produces artist-craftsmen, while handicraft workers are required in industry, and retailers or specially trained store assistant in business. Computer-aided design and manufacture render handicraft workmanship unnecessary. In a pessimistic view, the future possibilities of the goldsmith occupational profession are dim, because the artist-craftsmen are bound to lose to fast-paced machines. On the other hand, people involved in goldsmith education see the future light, designer-goldsmiths developing the occupational to new dimensions. Suomen Kultaseppien Liitto represents goldsmiths in public. The union, however is governed by non-artisan goldsmiths. The union stresses business attitudes and enterpreneurship, and has succeeded in protecting the privileges of retailers and industry. Goldsmiths profession is seen in the research data as a combination of precious-metal industry, jewellery and watch stores, anda goldsmith shop is considered a specialized giftstore. The goldsmiths occupation is not a profession, and the Suomen Kultaseppien Liitto is not a trade union for artist and craftmen. Accordingly, part of the representative authority of the union could be transferred from the Association to Taidekäsityöläiset Taiko ry, a member of organization of Ornamo. Results of this study show the importance of defining the images of the goldsmith occupational profession and the trade union. The results could be applied to goldsmith education to examine what would be the optimal education and training for present employment opportunities. The important background theories has been the theories of Habermas and Lévi-Strauss.

Linnunkiikut ja kallen kaulukset : Kotitekoiset kuukautissiteet 1900-luvun alkupuolen Suomessa

The aim of this thesis was to study what kind of home-made menstrual pads were used in the early 20th century in Finland, how the home-made pads were made and which techniques and materials were used. The use and taking care of menstrual pads were also explored. The history of menstrual pads has been studied in Sweden, Germany and United States but none of those studies has concentrated on home-made pads. Instead, there are many studies about womanhood and menstruation. In many studies home-made menstrual pads are only briefly mentioned. Menstrual pads were not commonly used in Finland at the beginning of the 20th century, but already in the 1940s the use of menstrual pads had become common in every stratum of society. Home-made menstrual pads were used even until the 1960s. In Finland, factory-made disposable menstrual pads became common only in the 1930s and they were only slowly accepted. The study material consisted of nine interviews, three archival inquiries, health care guidebooks from 1893 to 1943 and authentic menstrual pads, menstrual belts and other objects related to them. The interviewed women were born between 1915 and 1939. The narrative approach was used in the study and it also guided the analysis. The interview and archival data were studied according to the basic rules of oral history studies. Literature consisted of publications from several disciplines. The extensive primary material played the most important role in this study. The reconstructions of the menstrual pads were made according to the interviewed women s advice. In Finland there were innumerable variations of home-made menstrual pads. The pads were most commonly crocheted and knitted either by hand or by knitting machine. Pads were also sewn of cloth, old bed linen or old underwear. The menstrual pads were self-made or made by a female relative. Word of mouth was important in spreading information on how to make pads, because there were hardly any instructions available. The biggest pads were 54 cm long and 13 cm wide. The most widely used pad model was a rectangle, which had triangle-shaped ends with a buttonhole or a loop. The pad was attached to the menstrual belt or to the buttons of the suspender belt. Knitted and crocheted pads had one, two or three layers. In sewn pads, there could be even more layers. Cellulose wadding or pieces of cloth could be placed inside the pad to increase the absorption ability. The experiences of the comfort of self-made pads varied. The crocheted and sewn pads were found chafing, knitted ones were found soft and comfortable. The menstrual pads were laborious to wash and boil in lye water. Therefore disposable pads made everyday life easier. The home-made menstrual pads were part of a unique tradition of handicrafts and folk culture. Hand-made pads were one of the most common handicraft products and were a part of every woman s life. Even so, the menstrual pads were unnoticeable. The large number of variations was probably caused by the silence around menstrual topics and by the lack of instructions for making pads. Variations are also explained by the uniqueness of every handicraft product. In Finland the home-made pads were used until relatively recent times. This was caused by the conditions of wartime and the following years and the rarity of commercial pads. Furthermore, until the late 20th century Finland was an agricultural society where all innovations spread slowly. Home-made menstrual pad was a secret handicraft of women and every woman needed to know how to make it by herself.

Tekstiilityötä ja matematiikkaa yhdistävän oppimateriaalin käyttökelpoisuus perusopetuksen yläluokilla

In this study the researcher wanted to show the observed connection of mathematics and textile work. To carry this out the researcher designed a textbook by herself for the upper secondary school in Tietoteollisuuden Naiset TiNA project at Helsinki University of Technology (URL:http://tina.tkk.fi/). The assignments were designed as additional teaching material to enhance and reinforce female students confidence in mathematics and in the management of their textile work. The research strategy applied action research, out of which two cycles two have been carried out. The first cycle consists of establishing the textbook and in the second cycle its usability is investigated. The third cycle is not included in this report. In the second cycle of the action research the data was collected from 15 teachers, five textile teachers, four mathematics teachers and six teachers of both subjects. They all got familiar with the textbook assignments and answered a questionnaire on the basis of their own teaching experience. The questionnaire was established by applying the theories of usability and teaching material assessment study. The data consisted of qualitative and quantitative information, which was analysed by content analysis with computer assisted table program to either qualitative or statistical description. According to the research results, the textbook assignments seamed to be applied better to mathematics lessons than textile work. The assignments pointed out, however, the clear interconnectedness of textile work and mathematics. Most of the assignments could be applied as such or as applications in the upper secondary school textile work and mathematics lessons. The textbook assignments were also applicable in different stages of the teaching process, e.g. as introduction, repetition or to support individual work or as group projects. In principle the textbook assignments were in well placed and designed in the correct level of difficulty. Negative findings concerned some too difficult assignments, lack of pupil motivation and unfamiliar form of task for the teacher. More clarity for some assignments was wished for and there was especially expressed a need for easy tasks and assignments in geometry. Assignments leading to the independent thinking of the pupil were additionally asked for. Two important improvements concerning the textbook attainability would be to get the assignments in html format over the Internet and to add a handicraft reference book.

Tia, a senhora é negra porque quer: narrativas que bordam memória e identidades

Esta pesquisa buscou conhecer as concepções de negritude e afrobrasilidade e compreender como as relações raciais se estabelecem no cotidiano do grupo de estudantes que integram o Coral de Vozes do Amanhã do CIEP Santos Dumont localizado no Bairro Alto Independência da cidade de Petrópolis, Região Serrana do Estado do Rio de Janeiro. A matéria prima para o desenvolvimento desta pesquisa foram as narrativas orais e escritas desses sujeitos, que emergiram em sala de aula, além de tapetes bordados por eles no contexto de oficinas de textos literários infanto-juvenis de autores contemporâneos africanos e afrobrasileiros. Os resultados obtidos no decorrer desse processo poderão se transformar em fontes significativas, de modo a contribuir para a desconstrução do racismo, preconceito e desigualdades raciais, além de chamar a atenção para que se tenha escuta atenta a muitas vozes que foram historicamente silenciadas. Minha pesquisa priorizou a emergência dessas narrativas em sala de aula, que foram meu material de análise, além de uma tentativa de interferência no currículo, considerando os saberes, experiências, histórias e memórias desse grupo de crianças e jovens.

Dos quintais às prateleiras: as imagens quilombolas e a produção da louça em Itamatatiua - Alcântara - Maranhão

Esta pesquisa aborda os diversos sentidos atribuídos à produção de louça por mulheres que moram em Itamatatiua, uma comunidade remanescente de quilombo localizada em Alcântara, Maranhão. Em uma etnografia, a sua secular produção de louça é analisada à luz da categoria zona de contato, enquanto âmbito privilegiado para a observação dos discursos pelos quais as fazedoras de louça de Itamatatiua constituem-se não apenas como quilombolas, mas também como mulheres, pretas, e artesãs. Habitando um território considerado terras de Santa Tereza, as mulheres de Itamatatiua constroem suas narrativas em relação às suas percepções sobre os atores externos ao povoado, como os turistas, pesquisadores, consultores de design que buscam nas suas territorialidades uma forma de acessar o passado. O resultado compartilhado e percebido é o que denomino imagens quilombolas. Estas imagens, constituídas de narrativas, formas de agir e pensar e aqui assumidas também como imagens gráficas (fotografias, peças gráficas e material audiovisual) revelam camadas históricas e discursos hegemônicos que são ressemantizados nos constantes encontros com turistas e pesquisadores, incluindo a mim mesma como pesquisadora e designer. As narrativas das mulheres sobre o saber-fazer da louça, sobre o seu imaginário sobre os turistas, sobre o que os consultores buscam no quilombo são alguns entre outros componentes das imagens quilombolas.

Women artists of the international avant-garde: the case of "Abstraction-Création" (1931-1936)

Women’s contribution to abstract art in the interwar period is a subject that, to date, has received very little attention. In this article we deal with the untold story of the participation of women artists in Abstraction-Création, the foremost international group dedicated to abstract art in the 1930s. Founded in Paris in 1931, the group took on the work of two previous collectives to become a platform for the dissemination and promotion of abstract art and consisted of around a hundred members. Twelve of these were women, whose writings and works were published in the group’s annual magazine, abstraction creátion art non figuratif (1932-1936), and who participated in a number of the group’s exhibitions. Compared to what had occurred in previous groups, the participation of women, although reduced in number, was comparable to that of the male artists and being members of the group had a generally positive impact on the women’s careers. However, all this came at the expense of relinquishing any gender specificity in their work and the public presentation of it, and demonstrates that the normalization of women’s contributions to the avant-garde could only be brought about alongside a questioning of the more dogmatic views of modernity.

Stratégies de reproduction et de transmission de l’identité autochtone au Mexique : le cas des migrants nahuas à Cuernavaca

La ville mexicaine de Cuernavaca, dans l’État de Morelos, a vu arriver depuis 1970 de nombreux migrants autochtones nahuas originaires de l’État voisin du Guerrero. Les migrants, qui ont élu domicile dans un même quartier résidentiel, subsistent grâce à la vente d’artisanat et partagent le nahuatl comme langue maternelle. Cette recherche s’intéresse aux stratégies mises en oeuvre par les migrants dans la reproduction de l’identité nahua et dans sa transmission aux nouvelles générations. La pratique artisanale et le maintien des relations sociales avec les villages du Guerrero se retrouvent au centre des stratégies identitaires nahuas : en plus d’assurer la transmission de l’héritage culturel nahua aux jeunes nés à Cuernavaca, ils facilitent la participation des migrants à la vie sociale villageoise. Au fil des décennies, les migrants ont ainsi favorisé le maintien de l’identité nahua et assuré la cohésion de la communauté sur la base du partage d’une identité commune.

Applying 3D modelling technology to traditional craftwork : rapid prototyping in artisanal jewellery making and its impact on the perceived value of jewellery

Depuis la révolution industrielle, l’évolution de la technologie bouleverse le monde de la fabrication. Aujourd'hui, de nouvelles technologies telles que le prototypage rapide font une percée dans des domaines comme celui de la fabrication de bijoux, appartenant jadis à l'artisanat et en bouscule les traditions par l'introduction de méthodes plus rapides et plus faciles. Cette recherche vise à répondre aux deux questions suivantes : - ‘En quoi le prototypage rapide influence-t-il la pratique de fabrication de bijoux?’ - ‘En quoi influence-t-il de potentiels acheteurs dans leur appréciation du bijou?’ L' approche consiste en une collecte de données faite au cours de trois entretiens avec différents bijoutiers et une rencontre de deux groupes de discussion composés de consommateurs potentiels. Les résultats ont révélé l’utilité du prototypage rapide pour surmonter un certain nombre d'obstacles inhérents au fait-main, tel que dans sa géométrie, sa commercialisation, et sa finesse de détails. Cependant, il se crée une distance entre la main du bijoutier et l'objet, changeant ainsi la nature de la pratique. Cette technologie est perçue comme un moyen moins authentique car la machine rappelle la production de masse et la possibilité de reproduction en série détruit la notion d’unicité du bijou, en réduisant ainsi sa charge émotionnelle. Cette recherche propose une meilleure compréhension de l'utilisation du prototypage rapide et de ses conséquences dans la fabrication de bijoux. Peut-être ouvrira-t-elle la voie à une recherche visant un meilleur mariage entre cette technique et les méthodes traditionnelles.

Evaluación de la exposición a solventes orgánicos en pintores de carros de la ciudad de Bogotá

Introducción. Los pintores de vehículos automotores están expuestos a solventes puros o mezclas de estos, los cuales se han asociado con efectos neurológicos y mutacarcinogénicos. Materiales y Métodos. Se realizó un estudio descriptivo de corte transversal para caracterizar las condiciones de salud y trabajo de individuos expuestos a solventes orgánicos en talleres de lámina y pintura en Bogotá. Se comparó un grupo de expuestos a solventes orgánicos con un grupo no expuestos. Se determinaron concentraciones de benceno, tolueno y xileno (BTX) en aire, se aplicó una encuesta individual y se midieron en orina, los ácidos fenil mercaptúrico, hipúrico, orto-para metilhipúrico como metabolitos de benceno, tolueno y xileno. Los resultados de las mediciones y de la encuesta se correlacionaron para establecer el panorama de exposición. Resultados: hubo diferencias estadísticamente significativas entre la población expuesta y la población no expuesta a solventes (p = 0,00) para los tres metabolitos de BTX. Se encontraron correlaciones positivas entre el tolueno en aire y ácido hipúrico en orina de los expuestos, (Spearman de 0,82) y entre el xileno en aire y el ácido o-metilhipúrico (Spearman de 0,76). Se encontraron valores de ácido hipúrico por encima de los límites permisibles en 11 2 trabajadores y de ácido p-metilhipúrico en 8 de ellos. No hubo valores para ácido fenilmercapturico fuera de límite. Discusión: los pintores de carros se encuentran expuestos a niveles altos de solventes orgánicos en sus sitios de trabajo y no cuentan con condiciones adecuadas de higiene y seguridad industrial para realizar sus labores.

Flerskiktat papper : en sammanställning av historia, teknik och forskningsresultat

Until the beginning of the 1900:th century the paper making process was handicraft. The paper machines that have been developed since then are as impressing in size as fascinating when it comes to the technique. The process has always been improved to give a better paper for lower costs, with as short manufacture time as possible. Stratified forming has been a reality since 1830. From the beginning it was applied to board and paperboard. Now it is also the most common method for making tissue and one paper mill in Austria use it for fine paper. Stratified forming can be categorized as separate forming or simultaneous forming. Separate forming means using several headboxes and sometimes even several wires. Simultaneous forming means using only one stratified headbox. This method has many advantages over separate forming, inter alia improved economy, quality, wood exchange and higher runability of the paper machine. Several experiments have been done with simultaneous forming of different fibres by placing a fibre with high bulk in the middle layer and a smooth fibre on the surface layers. The results has shown that by using this method both the bending stiffness and surface properties are improved, or a lower grammage paper is obtained with maintaining quality. Simultaneous forming can also be used to stratify fillers in layers where they are most efficient. In that way both paper quality and economy is improved. Simultaneous forming is also used for fractionated pulp. Fractionation means separating springwood fibre from summerwood fibre, and placing them in separate layers. Research results of fractionated pulp show about the same result as simultaneous forming of different fibres.

Young peoples’ entrance to the workplace : Introduction to occupational health and safety

Negative outcomes of a poor work environment are more frequent among young workers. The aim of the current study was to study former pupils’ conditions concerning occupational health and safety by investigating the workplaces’, safety climate, the degree of implementation of SWEM and the their introduction programs. Four branches were included in the study: Industrial, Restaurant, Transport and Handicraft, specialising in wood. Semi-structured dialogues were undertaken with 15 employers at companies in which former pupils were employed. They also answered a questionnaire about SWEM. Former pupils and experienced employees were upon the same occasion asked to fill in a questionnaire about safety climate at the workplace. Workplace introduction programs varied and were strongly linked to company size. Most of the former pupils and experienced employees rated the safety climate at their company as high, or good. Employers in three of the branches rated the SWEM implemented at their workplaces to be effective. The Industry companies, which had the largest workplaces, gave the most systematic and workplace introduction for new employees. There are no results from this study explaining the fact that young workers have a higher risk for workplace accidents.

Effective measures to decrease air contaminants through risk and control visualization : a study of the effective use of QR codes to facilitate safety training

Woodworking industries still consists of wood dust problems. Young workers are especially vulnerable to safety risks. To reduce risks, it is important to change attitudes and increase knowledge about safety. Safety training have shown to establish positive attitudes towards safety among employees. The aim of current study is to analyze the effect of QR codes that link to Picture Mix EXposure (PIMEX) videos by analyzing attitudes to this safety training method and safety in student responses. Safety training videos were used in upper secondary school handicraft programs to demonstrate wood dust risks and methods to decrease exposure to wood dust. A preliminary study was conducted to investigate improvement of safety training in two schools in preparation for the main study that investigated a safety training method in three schools. In the preliminary study the PIMEX method was first used in which students were filmed while wood dust exposure was measured and subsequently displayed on a computer screen in real time. Before and after the filming, teachers, students, and researchers together analyzed wood dust risks and effective measures to reduce exposure to them. For the main study, QR codes linked to PIMEX videos were attached at wood processing machines. Subsequent interviews showed that this safety training method enables students in an early stage of their life to learn about risks and safety measures to control wood dust exposure. The new combination of methods can create awareness, change attitudes and motivation among students to work more frequently to reduce wood dust.