21 resultados para craft products

em Helda - Digital Repository of University of Helsinki


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Purpose This study focused on craft from a standpoint of phenomenological philosophy and craft was interpreted through Maurice Merleau-Ponty’s phenomenology of the body. The main focus was the physical phase of the craft process, wherein a product is made from material. The aim was to interpret corporality in craft. There is no former research focusing on lived body in craft science. Physical, bodily making is inalienable in craft, but it is not articulated. Recent discussion has focused on craft as ”whole”, which emphasizes designing part in the process, and craft becomes conceptualized with the theories of art and design. The axiomatic yet silenced basis of craft, corporality, deserves to become examined as well. That is why this study answers the questions: how craft manifests in the light of phenomenology of the body and what is corporality in craft? Methods In this study I cultivated a phenomenological attitude and turned my exploring eye on craft ”in itself”. In addition I restrained myself from mere making and placed myself looking at the occurrence of craft to describe it verbally. I read up Maurice Merleau-Ponty’s phenomenology of the body on his principal work (2002) and former interpretations of it. Interpreting and understanding textual data were based on Gadamer’s hermeneutics, and the four-pronged composition of the study followed Koski’s (1995) version of the Gadamerian process of textual interpretation. Conclusions In the construction of bodily phenomenology craft was to be contemplated as a mutual relationship between the maker and the world materializing in bodily making. At the moment of making a human being becomes one with his craft, and the connection between the maker, material and the equipment appears as communication. Operational dimension was distinctive in the intentionality of craft, which operates in many ways, also in craft products. The synesthesia and synergy of craft were emphasized and craft as bodily practice came to life through them. The moment of making appeared as situation generating time and space, where throwing oneself into making may give the maker an experience of upraise beyond the dualism of mind and body. The conception of the implicit nature of craft knowledge was strengthened. In the light of interpretation it was possible to conceptualize craft as a performance and making ”in itself” as a work of art. In that case craft appeared as bodily expression, which as an experience approaches art without being it after all. The concept of aesthetic was settled into making as well. Bodily and phenomenological viewpoint on craft gave material to critically contemplate the concept of “whole craft” (kokonainen käsityö) and provided different kind of understanding of craft as making.

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When Finland occupied East Karelian territories in Soviet Union during The Continuation War (1941 1944) Finnish people had also to take care of the inhabitants of the occupied East Karelia. For example there was a lack of clothes and shoes during the wartime. In order to facilitate clothing situation and to provide more opportunities to work for women, Finnish people founded some workshops in East Karelia. Workshops also helped to collect East Karelian craft products. One of the workshops was founded in the city of Olonets in October 1941 and it was in operation until June 1944. This workshop is the subject of this thesis. The aim of this thesis is to find out with the microhistorical approach what kind of functions the workshop of Olonets had during The Continuation War and who worked in the workshop. In this thesis I also examine women s crafts in the Olonets workshop and their meaning during the wartime. I collected the material of this thesis from different places. In February 2010 I interviewed Talvikki Lausala, the leader of the Olonets workshop, who worked in the Olonets from May 1942 to June 1944. From the Virkki Käsityömuseo I looked for objects which have been made in the workshop of Olonets. Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki collected crafts from the East Karelia when she was working in the area and in the workshop from 1941 to 1944. Archive material I found from the Finnish National archive and from the archive of the Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki -Foundation. East Karelian women and girls who were not able to do anything else came to work in the Olonets workshop. If women could not go to work outside of home, they had an option to do the same crafts at home. There were three Finnish women, Tyyne-Kerttu Virkki, Talvikki Lausala and Sofi Nyrkkö, who worked and led in the workshop of Olonets. In addition to the workshop, there was a dress maker s atelier in which clothes were made to order and soldiers uniforms were repaired, a small museum and a shop to sell products of the workshop. Craft products were also exported to Finland. Courses were organized in which Finnish women taught East Karelian crafts.

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Natural products constitute an important source of new drugs. The bioavailability of the drugs depends on their absorption, distribution, metabolism and elimination. To achieve good bioavailability, the drug must be soluble in water, stable in the gastrointestinal tract and palatable. Binding proteins may improve the solubility of drug compounds, masking unwanted properties, such as bad taste, bitterness or toxicity, transporting or protecting these compounds during processing and storage. The focus of this thesis was to study the interactions, including ligand binding and the effect of pH and temperature, of bovine and reindeer β-lactoglobulin (βLG) with such compounds as retinoids, phenolic compounds as well as with compounds from plant extracts, and to investigate the transport properties of the βLG-ligand complex. To examine the binding interactions of different ligands to βLG, new methods were developed. The fluorescence binding method for the evaluation of ligand binding to βLG was miniaturized from a quartz cell to a 96-well plate. A method of ultrafiltration sampling combined with high-performance liquid chromatography was developed to assess the binding of compounds from extracts. The interactions of phenolic compounds or retinoids and βLG were investigated using the 96-well plate method. The majority of flavones, flavonols, flavanones and isoflavones and all of the retinoids included were shown to bind to bovine and reindeer βLG. Phenolic compounds, contrary to retinol, were not released at acidic pH. Those results suggest that βLG may have more binding sites, probably also on the surface of βLG. An extract from Camellia sinensis (L.) O. Kunze (black tea), Urtica dioica L. (nettle) and Piper nigrum (black pepper) were used to evaluate whether βLG could bind compounds from plant extracts. Piperine from P. nigrum was found to bind tightly and rutin from U. dioica weakly to βLG. No components from C. sinensis bound to βLG in our experiment. The uptake and membrane permeation of bovine and reindeer βLG, free and bound with retinol, palmitic acid and cholesterol, were investigated using Caco-2 cell monolayers. Both bovine and reindeer βLG were able to cross the Caco-2 cell membrane. Free and βLG-bound retinol and palmitic acid were transported equally, whereas cholesterol could not cross the Caco-2 cell monolayer free or bound to βLG. Our results showed that βLG can bind different natural product compounds, but cannot enhance transport of retinol, palmitic acid or cholesterol through Caco-2 cells. Despite this, βLG, as a water-soluble binding protein, may improve the solubility of natural compounds, possibly protecting them from early degradation and transporting some of them through the stomach. Furthermore, it may decrease their bad or bitter taste during oral administration of drugs or in food preparations. βLG can also enhance or decrease the health benefits of herbal teas and food preparations by binding compounds from extracts.

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In the 1990 s the companies utilizing and producing new information technology, especially so-called new media, were also expected to be forerunners in new forms of work and organization. Researchers anticipated that new, more creative forms of work and the changing content of working life were about to replace old industrial and standardized ways of working. However, research on actual companies in the IT sector revealed a situation where only minor changes to existing organizational forms were seen .Many of the independent companies faced great difficulties trying to survive the rapid changes in the products and production forms in the emerging field. Most of the research on the new media field has been conducted as surveys, and an understanding of the actual everyday work process has remained thin. My research is a longitudinal study of the early phases of one new media company in Finland. The study is an analysis of the challenges the company faced in a rapidly changing business field and the attempts to overcome these challenges. The two main analyses in the study focus on the developmental phases of the company and the disturbances in the production process. Based on these analyses, I study changes and learning at work using the methodological framework of developmental work research. Developmental work research is a Finnish variant of the cultural-historical activity theory applied to the study of learning and transformations at work. The data was gathered over a three-year period of ethnographic fieldwork. I documented the production processes and everyday life in the company as a participant observer. I interviewed key persons, video and audio-taped meetings, followed e-mail correspondence and collected various documents, such as agreements and memos. I developed a systematic method for analyzing the disturbances in the production process by combining the various data sources. The systematic analysis of the disturbances depicted a very complex and only partly managed production process. The production process had a long duration, and no single actor had an understanding of it as a whole. Most of the disturbances had to do with the customer relationships. The nature of the disturbances was latent; they were recognized but not addressed. In the particular production processes that I analyzed, the ending life span of a particular product, a CD-ROM, became obvious. This finding can be interpreted in relation to the developmental phase of the production and the transformation of the field as a whole. Based on the analysis of the developmental phases and the disturbances, I formulate a hypothesis of the contradictions and developmental potentials of the activity studied. The conclusions of the study challenge the existing understanding of how to conceptualize and study organizational learning in production work. Most theories of organizational learning do not address qualitative changes in production nor historical challenges of organizational learning itself. My study opens up a new horizon in understanding organizational learning in a rapidly changing field where a learning culture based on craft or mass production work is insufficient. There is a need for anticipatory and proactive organizational learning. Proactive learning is needed to anticipate the changes in production type, and the life cycles of products.

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The aim of this thesis was to study what kind of home-made menstrual pads were used in the early 20th century in Finland, how the home-made pads were made and which techniques and materials were used. The use and taking care of menstrual pads were also explored. The history of menstrual pads has been studied in Sweden, Germany and United States but none of those studies has concentrated on home-made pads. Instead, there are many studies about womanhood and menstruation. In many studies home-made menstrual pads are only briefly mentioned. Menstrual pads were not commonly used in Finland at the beginning of the 20th century, but already in the 1940s the use of menstrual pads had become common in every stratum of society. Home-made menstrual pads were used even until the 1960s. In Finland, factory-made disposable menstrual pads became common only in the 1930s and they were only slowly accepted. The study material consisted of nine interviews, three archival inquiries, health care guidebooks from 1893 to 1943 and authentic menstrual pads, menstrual belts and other objects related to them. The interviewed women were born between 1915 and 1939. The narrative approach was used in the study and it also guided the analysis. The interview and archival data were studied according to the basic rules of oral history studies. Literature consisted of publications from several disciplines. The extensive primary material played the most important role in this study. The reconstructions of the menstrual pads were made according to the interviewed women s advice. In Finland there were innumerable variations of home-made menstrual pads. The pads were most commonly crocheted and knitted either by hand or by knitting machine. Pads were also sewn of cloth, old bed linen or old underwear. The menstrual pads were self-made or made by a female relative. Word of mouth was important in spreading information on how to make pads, because there were hardly any instructions available. The biggest pads were 54 cm long and 13 cm wide. The most widely used pad model was a rectangle, which had triangle-shaped ends with a buttonhole or a loop. The pad was attached to the menstrual belt or to the buttons of the suspender belt. Knitted and crocheted pads had one, two or three layers. In sewn pads, there could be even more layers. Cellulose wadding or pieces of cloth could be placed inside the pad to increase the absorption ability. The experiences of the comfort of self-made pads varied. The crocheted and sewn pads were found chafing, knitted ones were found soft and comfortable. The menstrual pads were laborious to wash and boil in lye water. Therefore disposable pads made everyday life easier. The home-made menstrual pads were part of a unique tradition of handicrafts and folk culture. Hand-made pads were one of the most common handicraft products and were a part of every woman s life. Even so, the menstrual pads were unnoticeable. The large number of variations was probably caused by the silence around menstrual topics and by the lack of instructions for making pads. Variations are also explained by the uniqueness of every handicraft product. In Finland the home-made pads were used until relatively recent times. This was caused by the conditions of wartime and the following years and the rarity of commercial pads. Furthermore, until the late 20th century Finland was an agricultural society where all innovations spread slowly. Home-made menstrual pad was a secret handicraft of women and every woman needed to know how to make it by herself.

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The basis for this study was in poor attractiveness of the wood products industry among young people as a field to study and work in. The purpose was to produce new information of how to improve the relationship between young people and the wood products industry in order to better attract young people with different relational orientation. A survey was conducted among students of comprehensive schools and students of wood industry at vocational schools selected by systematic cluster sampling. The final sample consisted of 613 students. The study combined the theories and concepts of relationships, communication and trust of several disciplines. In addition, it applied theories of relationship marketing, stakeholders, publics, involvement and concepts of reputation and values. It studied the central relational elements in the form of antecedents, relationship state and its consequences. The study examined, how young people with different background and level of interest perceive wood industry as a field to study and work in from relational point of view, what are the central deficiencies in perceived relational elements and what are the public relations activities enhancing the relationship between wood industry and young people with less and high interest in the sector. The results indicate poor visibility of the wood industry among young people: unfamiliarity with the industry and unawareness of the opportunities to study in the field. It appeared that instead of increasing only information sharing, interactive communication in different forms is needed. The study also suggests that behaviors of the industry sector advancing perceived trustworthiness are of crucial importance. Moreover, the wood industry needs to pay attention to its behaviors and communication also among other stakeholder groups, especially the media, as reputation plays an important role in building up trust and satisfaction between young people and the sector. Finally, the less and highly interested young people were found to assess the relationship partly through different relational elements. In order to develop the relationship with highly interested young people they should be regarded clearly as future employees of the wood industry through activities affirming that they are desired and valued employees in the sector. Further, openness of information disclosure, whether concerning current situation or future prospects, seems to increase credibility and attractiveness of the wood industry. Highly interested young people were also found to appreciate socially responsible activities. The less interested young people seem to be insecure about the reliability of the wood industry as an employer, as well as, its ability and interest to invest in young people s skills. In addition,involvement in issues relevant for young people was found crucial in enhancing the relationship with the less interested young people.The conclusions of the study provide tools for enhancing the attractiveness of the wood industry among young people not only to the industry itself, but also to its advocates, teachers and student counselors of comprehensive and vocational schools, authorities and policy makers.

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Screening of wastewater effluents from municipal and industrial wastewater treatment plants with biotests showed that the treated wastewater effluents possess only minor acute toxic properties towards whole organisms (e.g. bacteria, algae, daphnia), if any. In vitro tests (sub-mitochondrial membranes and fish hepatocytes) were generally more susceptible to the effluents. Most of the effluents indicated the presence of hormonally active compounds, as the production of vitellogenin, an egg yolk precursor protein, was induced in fish hepatocytes exposed to wastewater. In addition, indications of slight genotoxic potential was found in one effluent concentrate with a recombinant bacteria test. Reverse electron transport (RET) of mitochondrial membranes was used as a model test to conduct effluent assessment followed by toxicant characterisations and identifications. Using a modified U.S. EPA Toxicity Identification Evaluation Phase I scheme and additional case-specific methods, the main compound in a pulp and paper mill effluent causing RET inhibition was characterised to be an organic, relatively hydrophilic high molecular weight (HMW) compound. The toxicant could be verified as HMW lignin by structural analyses using nuclear magnetic resonance. In the confirmation step commercial and in-house extracted lignin products were used. The possible toxicity related structures were characterised by statistical analysis of the chemical breakdown structures of laboratory-scale pulping and bleaching effluents and the toxicities of these effluents. Finally, the biological degradation of the identified toxicant and other wastewater constituents was evaluated using bioassays in combination with chemical analyses. Biological methods have not been used routinely in establishing effluent discharge limits in Finland. However, the biological effects observed in this study could not have been predicted using only routine physical and chemical effluent monitoring parameters. Therefore chemical parameters cannot be considered to be sufficient in controlling effluent discharges especially in case of unknown, possibly bioaccumulative, compounds that may be present in small concentrations and may cause chronic effects.

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Increased interest in the cholesterol-lowering effect of plant sterols has led to development of plant sterol-enriched foods. When products are enriched, the safety of the added components must be evaluated. In the case of plant sterols, oxidation is the reaction of main concern. In vitro studies have indicated that cholesterol oxides may have harmful effects. Due their structural similarity, plant sterol oxidation products may have similar health implications. This study concentrated on developing high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) methods that enable the investigation of formation of both primary and secondary oxidation products and thus can be used for oxidation mechanism studies of plant sterols. The applicability of the methods for following the oxidation reactions of plant sterols was evaluated by using oxidized stigmasterol and sterol mixture as model samples. An HPLC method with ultraviolet and fluorescence detection (HPLC-UV-FL) was developed. It allowed the specific detection of hydroperoxides with FL detection after post-column reagent addition. The formation of primary and secondary oxidation products and amount of unoxidized sterol could be followed by using UV detection. With the HPLC-UV-FL method, separation between oxides was essential and oxides of only one plant sterol could be quantified in one run. Quantification with UV can lead to inaccuracy of the results since the number of double bonds had effect on the UV absorbance. In the case of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS), separation of oxides with different functionalities was important because some oxides of the same sterol have similar molecular weight and moreover epimers have similar fragmentation behaviour. On the other hand, coelution of different plant sterol oxides with the same functional group was acceptable since they differ in molecular weights. Results revealed that all studied plant sterols and cholesterol seem to have similar fragmentation behaviour, with only relative ion abundances being slightly different. The major advantage of MS detection coupled with LC separation is the capability to analyse totally or partly coeluting analytes if these have different molecular weights. The HPLC-UV-FL and LC-MS methods were demonstrated to be suitable for studying the photo-oxidation and thermo-oxidation reactions of plant sterols. The HPLC-UV-FL method was able to show different formation rates of hydroperoxides during photo-oxidation. The method also confirmed that plant sterols have similar photo-oxidation behaviour to cholesterol. When thermo-oxidation of plant sterols was investigated by HPLC-UV-FL and LC-MS, the results revealed that the formation and decomposition of individual hydroperoxides and secondary oxidation products could be studied. The methods used revealed that all of the plant sterols had similar thermo-oxidation behaviour when compared with each other, and the predominant reactions and oxidation rates were temperature dependent. Overall, these findings showed that with these LC methods the oxidation mechanisms of plant sterols can be examined in detail, including the formation and degradation of individual hydroperoxides and secondary oxidation products, with less sample pretreatment and without derivatization.

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Non-timber forest products (NTFPs) are one of the major income sources for the rural population of Laos. An exploratory study was conducted to determine the role of non-timber forest products for rural communities of the study area. The study was carried out in two villages viz. Ban Napo and Ban Kouay of Sangthong district between January and March 2010. A semi-structured questionnaire was used to gather data from the respondents. Twenty-five respondents from each village were chosen based on their involvement in NTFPs collection and marketing activities. Statistically significant NTFPs income differences were not found between the villages and age groups of the respondents, however, significant differences were found in the annual incomes between farms size of the respondents. This study also analyzed the value chain structure of the three (See khai’ ton, Bamboo mats and Incense sticks) important non-timber forest products and the interactions between the actors in the case study areas. Barriers to entry the market, governance and upgrading possibilities have been discussed for each of the value chains. Comparison of unit prices at different levels of the value chains indicated uneven income distribution in favour of the intermediaries, factories and foreign buyers. The lack of capital, marketing information and negotiation skills restricted the villagers to increase their income. However, all the respondents have shown their satisfaction with their income from NTFPs.