Neighborhood Shopkeepers in Contemporary South Korea: Household, Work, and Locality

This is an ethnographic study of the lived worlds of the keepers of small shops in a residential neighborhood in Seoul, South Korea. It outlines, discusses, and analyses the categories and conceptualizations of South Korean capitalism at the level of households, neighborhoods, and Korean society. These cultural categories were investigated through the neighborhood shopkeepers practices of work and reciprocal interaction as well as through the shopkeepers articulations of their lived experience. In South Korea, the keepers of small businesses have continued to be a large occupational category despite of societal and economic changes, occupying approximately one fourth of the population in active work force. In spite of that, these people, their livelihoods and their cultural and social worlds have rarely been in the focus of social science inquiry. The ethnographic field research for this study was conducted during a 14-month period between November 1998 and December 1999 and in three subsequent short visits to Korea and to the research neighborhood. The fieldwork was conducted during the aftermath of the Asian currency crisis, colloquially termed at the time as the IMF crisis, which highlighted the social and cultural circumstances of small businesskeeper in a specific way. The livelihoods of small-scale entrepreneurs became even more precarious than before; self-employment became an involuntary choice for many middle-class salaried employees who were laid off; and the cultural categories and concepts of society and economy South Korean capitalism were articulated more sharply than before. This study begins with an overview of the contemporary setting, the Korean society under the socially and economically painful outcomes of the economic crisis, and continues with an overview of relevant literature. After introducing the research area and the informants, I discuss the Korean notion of neighborhood, which incorporates both the notions of culturally valued Koreanness and deficiency in the sense of modernity and development. This study further analyses the ways in which the businesskeepers appropriate and reproduce the Korean ideas of men s and women s gender roles and spheres of work. As the appropriation of children s labor is conditional to intergenerational family trajectories which aim not to reproduce parents occupational status but to gain entry to salaried occupations via educational credentials, the work of a married couple is the most common organization of work in small businesses, to which the Korean ideas of family and kin continuity are not applied. While the lack of generational businesskeeping succession suggests that the proprietors mainly subscribe to the notions of familial status that emanate from the practices of the white-collar middle class, the cases of certain women shopkeepers show that their proprietorship and the ensuing economic standing in the family prompts and invites inversed interpretations and uses of common cultural notions of gender. After discussing and analyzing the concept of money and the cultural categorization of leisure and work, topics that emerged as very significant in the lived world of the shopkeepers, this study charts and analyses the categories of identification which the shopkeepers employ for their cultural and social locations and identities. Particular attention is paid to the idea of ordinary people (seomin), which shopkeepers are commonly considered to be most representative of, and which also sums up the ambivalence of neighborhood shopkeepers as a social category: they are not committed to familial reproduction and continuity of the business but aspire non-entrepreneurial careers for their children, while they occupy a significant position in the elaborations of culturally valued notions and ideologies defining Koreanness such as warmheartedness and sociability.

Pathways to health : Determinants of health, health behaviour and health inequalities in early adulthood

There is increasing evidence that the origins of poor adult health and health inequalities can be traced back to circumstances preceding current socioeconomic position and living conditions. The life-course approach to examining the determinants of health has emphasised that exposure to adverse social and economic circumstances in earlier life or concurrent adverse circumstances due to unfavourable living conditions in earlier life may lead to poor health, health-damaging behaviour, disease or even premature death in adulthood. There is, however, still a lack of knowledge about the contribution of social and economic circumstances in childhood and youth to adult health and health inequalities, and even less is known about how environmental and behavioural factors in adulthood mediate the effects of earlier adverse experiences. The main purpose of this study was to deepen our understanding of the development of poor health, health-damaging behaviours and health inequalities during the life-course. Its aim was to find out which factors in earlier and current circumstances determine health, the most detrimental indicators of health behaviour (smoking, heavy drinking and obesity as a proxy for the balance between nutrition and exercise), and educational health differences in young adults in Finland. Following the ideas of the social pathway theory, it was assumed that childhood environment affects adult health and its proximal determinants via different pathways, including educational, work and family careers. Early adulthood was studied as a significant phase of life when many behavioural patterns and living conditions relevant to health are established. In addition, socioeconomic health inequalities seem to emerge rapidly when moving into adulthood; they are very small or non-existent in childhood and adolescence, but very marked by early middle age. The data of this study were collected in 2000 2001 as part of the Health 2000 Survey (N = 9,922), a cross-sectional and nationally representative health interview and examination survey. The main subset of data used in this thesis was the one comprising the age group 18 29 years (N = 1,894), which included information collected by standardised structured computer-aided interviews and self-administered questionnaires. The survey had a very high participation rate at almost 90% for the core questions. According to the results of this study, childhood circumstances predict the health of young adults. Almost all the childhood adversities studied were found to be associated with poor self-rated health and psychological distress in early adulthood, although fewer associations were found with the somatic morbidity typical of young adults. These effects seemed to be more or less independent of the young adult s own education. Childhood circumstances also had a strong effect on smoking and heavy drinking, although current circumstances and education in particular, played a role in mediating this effect. Parental smoking and alcohol abuse had an influence on the corresponding behaviours of offspring. Childhood circumstances had a role in the development of obesity and, to a lesser extent, overweight, particularly in women. The findings support the notion that parental education has a strong effect on early adult obesity, even independently of the young adult s own educational level. There were marked educational differences in self-rated health in early adulthood: those in the lowest educational category were most likely to have average or poorer health. Childhood social circumstances seemed to explain a substantial part of these educational differences. In addition, daily smoking and heavy drinking contributed substantially to educational health differences. However, the contribution of childhood circumstances was largely shared with health behaviours adopted by early adulthood. Employment also shared the effects of childhood circumstances on educational health differences. The results indicate that childhood circumstances are important in determining health, health behaviour and health inequalities in early adulthood. Early recognition of childhood adversities followed by relevant support measures may play an important role in preventing the unfortunate pathways leading to the development of poor health, health-damaging behaviour and health inequalities. It is crucially important to recognise the needs of children living in adverse circumstances as well as children of substance abusing parents. In addition, single-parent families would benefit from support. Differences in health and health behaviours between different sub-groups of the population mean that we can expect to see ever greater health differences when today s generation of young adults grows older. This presents a formidable challenge to national health and social policy as well as health promotion. Young adults with no more than primary level education are at greatest risk of poor health. Preventive policies should emphasise the role of low educational level as a key determinant of health-damaging behaviours and poor health. Keywords: health, health behaviour, health inequalities, life-course, socioeconomic position, education, childhood circumstances, self-rated health, psychological distress, somatic morbidity, smoking, heavy drinking, BMI, early adulthood

Every method counts

In this study we explore the concurrent, combined use of three research methods, statistical corpus analysis and two psycholinguistic experiments (a forced-choice and an acceptability rating task), using verbal synonymy in Finnish as a case in point. In addition to supporting conclusions from earlier studies concerning the relationships between corpus-based and ex- perimental data (e. g., Featherston 2005), we show that each method adds to our understanding of the studied phenomenon, in a way which could not be achieved through any single method by itself. Most importantly, whereas relative rareness in a corpus is associated with dispreference in selection, such infrequency does not categorically always entail substantially lower acceptability. Furthermore, we show that forced-choice and acceptability rating tasks pertain to distinct linguistic processes, with category-wise in- commensurable scales of measurement, and should therefore be merged with caution, if at all.

The connection between on-farm assessed welfare (A-index) and production parameters of the sows

Tämän tutkimuksen tavoitteena oli selvittää tilalla määritetyn hyvinvoinnin yhteyttä emakoiden tuotantotuloksiin. Hyvinvointia arvioitiin suomalaisen hyvinvointi-indeksin, A-indeksi, avulla. Tuotantotuloksina käytettiin kahta erilaista tuotosaineistoa, jotka molemmat pohjautuivat kansalliseen tuotosseuranta aineistoon. Hyvinvointimääritykset tehtiin 30 porsastuotantosikalassa maaliskuun 2007 aikana. A-indeksi koostuu kuudesta kategoriasta ’liikkumismahdollisuudet’, ’alustan ominaisuudet’, ’sosiaaliset kontaktit’, ’valo, ilma ja melu’, ’ruokinta ja veden saanti’ sekä ’eläinten terveys ja hoidon taso’. Jokaisessa kategoriassa on 3-10 pääosin ympäristöperäistä muuttujaa, jotka vaihtelevat osastoittain. Maksimipistemäärä osastolle on 100. Hyvinvointimittaukset tehtiin porsitus-, tiineytys- ja joutilasosastoilla. Erillisten tiineytysosastojen pienen lukumäärän takia (n=7) tilakohtaiset tiineytys- ja joutilasosastopisteet yhdistettiin ja keskiarvoja käytettiin analyyseissä. Yhteyksiä tuotokseen tutkittiin kahden eri aineiston avulla 1) Tilaraportti aineisto (n=29) muodostuu muokkaamattomista tila- ja tuotostuloksista tilavierailua edeltävän vuoden ajalta, 2) POTSIaineisto (n=30) muodostuu POTSI-ohjelmalla (MTT) muokatusta tuotantoaineistosta, joka sisältää managementtiryhmän (tila, vuosi, vuodenaika) vaikutuksen ensikoiden ja emakoiden pahnuekohtaiseen tuotokseen. Yhteyksiä analysointiin korrelaatio- ja regressioanalyysien avulla. Vaikka osallistuminen tutkimukseen oli vapaaehtoista, molempien tuotantoaineistojen perusteella tutkimustilat edustavat keskituottoista suomalaista sikatilaa. A-indeksin kokonaispisteet vaihtelivat välillä 37,5–64,0 porsitusosastolla ja 39,5–83,5 joutilasosastolla. Tilaraporttiaineistoa käytettäessä paremmat pisteet porsitusosaston ’eläinten terveys ja hoidon taso’ -kategoriasta lyhensivät eläinten lisääntymissykliä, lisäsivät syntyvien pahnueiden ja porsaiden määrää sekä alensivat kuolleena syntyneiden lukumäärää. Regressiomallin mukaan ’eläinten terveys ja hoidon taso’ -kategoria selitti syntyvien porsaiden lukumäärän, porsimisvälin pituuden sekä keskiporsimiskerran vaihtelua. Paremmat pisteet joutilasosaston ’liikkumismahdollisuudet’ kategoriasta alensivat syntyneiden pahnueiden sekä syntyneiden että vieroitettujen porsaiden lukumäärää. Regressiomallin mukaan ensikkopahnueiden osuus ja ”liikkumismahdollisuudet” kategorian pisteet selittivät vieroitettujen porsaiden lukumäärän vaihtelua. POTSI-aineiston yhteydessä kuolleena syntyneiden porsaiden lukumäärän aleneminen oli ensikoilla yhteydessä parempiin porsitusosaston ’sosiaalisiin kontakteihin’ ja emakoilla puolestaan joutilasosaston parempiin ’eläinten terveys ja hoidon taso’ pisteisiin. Kahden eri tuotantoaineiston avulla saadut tulokset erosivat toisistaan. Seuraavissa tutkimuksissa onkin suositeltavampaa käyttää Tilaraporttiaineistoja, joissa tuotokset ilmoitetaan vuosikohtaisina. Tämän tutkimuksen perusteella hyvinvoinnilla ja tuotoksella on yhteyksiä, joilla on myös merkittävää taloudellista vaikutusta. Erityisesti hyvä eläinten hoito ja eläinten terveys lisäävät tuotettujen porsaiden määrää ja lyhentävät lisääntymiskiertoa. Erityishuomiota tulee kiinnittää vapaana olevien joutilaiden emakoiden sosiaaliseen stressiin ja rehunsaannin varmistamiseen kaikille yksilöille.

The Electronic Journal of Information Technology in Construction (ITcon): An Open Access Journal Using an Un-paid, Volunteer-Based Organization

Introduction This case study is based on the experiences with the Electronic Journal of Information Technology in Construction (ITcon), founded in 1995. Development This journal is an example of a particular category of open access journals, which use neither author charges nor subscriptions to finance their operations, but rely largely on unpaid voluntary work in the spirit of the open source movement. The journal has, after some initial struggle, survived its first decade and is now established as one of half-a-dozen peer reviewed journals in its field. Operations The journal publishes articles as they become ready, but creates virtual issues through alerting messages to “subscribers”. It has also started to publish special issues, since this helps in attracting submissions, and also helps in sharing the work-load of review management. From the start the journal adopted a rather traditional layout of the articles. After the first few years the HTML version was dropped and papers are only published in PDF format. Performance The journal has recently been benchmarked against the competing journals in its field. Its acceptance rate of 53% is slightly higher and its average turnaround time of seven months almost a year faster compared to those journals in the sample for which data could be obtained. The server log files for the past three years have also been studied. Conclusions Our overall experience demonstrates that it is possible to publish this type of OA journal, with a yearly publishing volume equal to a quarterly journal and involving the processing of some fifty submissions a year, using a networked volunteer-based organization.

Corporate Environmental Responsibility in Demand Networks (summary section only)

Research on corporate responsibility has traditionally focused on the responsibilities of companies within their corporate boundaries only. Yet this view is challenged today as more and more companies face the situation in which the environmental and social performance of their suppliers, distributors, industry or other associated partners impacts on their sales performance and brand equity. Simultaneously, policy-makers have taken up the discussion on corporate responsibility from the perspective of globalisation, in particular of global supply chains. The category of selecting and evaluating suppliers has also entered the field of environmental reporting. Companies thus need to tackle their responsibility in collaboration with different partners. The aim of the thesis is to further the understanding of collaboration and corporate environmental responsibility beyond corporate boundaries. Drawing on the fields of supply chain management and industrial ecology, the thesis sets out to investigate inter-firm collaboration on three different levels, between the company and its stakeholders, in the supply chain, and in the demand network of a company. The thesis is comprised of four papers: Paper A discusses the use of different research approaches in logistics and supply chain management. Paper B introduces the study on collaboration and corporate environmental responsibility from a focal company perspective, looking at the collaboration of companies with their stakeholders, and the salience of these stakeholders. Paper C widens this perspective to an analysis on the supply chain level. The focus here is not only beyond corporate boundaries, but also beyond direct supplier and customer interfaces in the supply chain. Paper D then extends the analysis to the demand network level, taking into account the input-output, competitive and regulatory environments, in which a company operates. The results of the study broaden the view of corporate responsibility. By applying this broader view, different types of inter-firm collaboration can be highlighted. Results also show how environmental demand is extended in the supply chain regardless of the industry background of the company.

The Hybrid Consumer: Exploring the Drivers of a New Consumer Behaviour Type

A dramatically different consumption pattern seems to be emerging among a vast group of consumers. This may mean that conventional consumer stereotypes and segmentation theory are becoming outdated. The so called hybrid consumers seem to increasingly opt for both premium and budget alternatives in various product and service categories while mid-priced alternatives are losing share in their consumption basket. Although this type of polarisation, or dispersion, is already recognized as an important change, hybrid behaviour is still largely under-researched. The present study aims to analyze the possible drivers of hybrid consumption and by identifying typical categories and situations of trading up versus trading down derive tentative characteristics of hybrid consumption for further research on the topic. A tentative pattern of hybrid consumption was identified, which relates trading up to high-involvement, discretional spending and trading down to low-involvement necessities. However, it was also found that hybrid consumption transcends product category boundaries and may thus be less straightforward than previously perhaps assumed. In addition, a purchase pattern continuum was developed, accounting for various degrees of hybrid consumption.

Oikeustieteen ensimmäisen vuoden opiskelijoiden haasteet opiskelussa

The aim of this dissertation was to explore factors which affect first-year law students study success. A modified Biggs s 3P model was used as the theoretical framework. The model includes both personal and contextual factors in student learning. The participants were first-year law students from the academic years 2005-2008, and the data were collected through interviews, open-ended question and electronic questionnaires. Study I explored first-year law students spontaneous descriptions of their learning activities at the beginning of their studies as well as fast study pace law students who had already finished their first year. Even though, law students are selected through a demanding entrance examination, some of the beginner students mentioned using only one or very few learning activities, which were mainly non-generative strategies. On the other hand, it was typical for the fast study pace students to mention generative strategies and elements of organised effort in studying. Study II analysed the relationship between approaches to learning and study success in terms of earned study credits and grade point average among first-year law students in three years. Organised students and students applying a deep approach earned the highest number of credits and the highest grades, whereas students applying a surface approach and unorganised students applying a deep approach received the lowest number of credits and the lowest grades. The study confirms previous findings that organised students constitute the largest cluster among first-year law students. Study III explored factors affecting the study pace of law students during their first academic year. The factors mentioned by the students were classified into four categories of self-regulation: motivation, behaviour, cognition and context. The group of fast study pace students turned out to have good skills in all areas of self-regulation. Respectively, the slow study pace group showed more individual variation, and had weaknesses in one or more areas of self-regulation. In addition, students experienced, that other activities such as working affected their study pace, this could be constitute a fifth category. However, the slow and fast study pace students felt differently about work. According to the slow study pace students, work impeded their studying because it took up too much time. For their part, the fast study pace students were able to allocate their time effectively and felt working to be useful and a counterbalanced to their studying, as well as an opportunity to apply knowledge in practice. Study IV analysed differences in law students perceptions of their teaching-learning environments after three learning periods. The students perceptions were compared with pharmacy and veterinary students perceptions of their teaching-learning environments. The results showed that the law students experienced their teaching-learning environment more negatively than the pharmacy and veterinary students. The law students experienced that alignment, teaching for understanding, staff enthusiasm and support, along with constructive feedback were areas that could be developed at the Faculty. Together the four studies indicate that both law students learning skills and the teaching-learning environment could be further developed. The results imply that managing in the demanding teaching-learning environment of law requires student to effectively employ qualitative learning activities: organised studying and a deep approach to learning and good self-regulation skills. In addition to student counselling, it is important for students study success to direct the teaching-learning environment towards a more learning-focused than content-focused approach to teaching.

Functional limitations and quality of life in schizophrenia and other psychotic disorders

There is substantial evidence of the decreased functional capacity, especially everyday functioning, of people with psychotic disorder in clinical settings, but little research about it in the general population. The aim of the present study was to provide information on the magnitude of functional capacity problems in persons with psychotic disorder compared with the general population. It estimated the prevalence and severity of limitations in vision, mobility, everyday functioning and quality of life of persons with psychotic disorder in the Finnish population and determined the factors affecting them. This study is based on the Health 2000 Survey, which is a nationally representative survey of 8028 Finns aged 30 and older. The psychotic diagnoses of the participants were assessed in the Psychoses of Finland survey, a substudy of Health 2000. The everyday functioning of people with schizophrenia is studied widely, but one important factor, mobility has been neglected. Persons with schizophrenia and other non-affective psychotic disorders, but not affective psychoses had a significantly increased risk of having both self-reported and test-based mobility limitations as well as weak handgrip strength. Schizophrenia was associated independently with mobility limitations even after controlling for lifestyle-related factors and chronic medical conditions. Another significant factor associated with problems in everyday functioning in participants with schizophrenia was reduced visual acuity. Their vision was examined significantly less often during the five years before the visual acuity measurement than the general population. In general, persons with schizophrenia and other non-affective psychotic disorder had significantly more limitations in everyday functioning, deficits in verbal fluency and in memory than the general population. More severe negative symptoms, depression, older age, verbal memory deficits, worse expressive speech and reduced distance vision were associated with limitations in everyday functioning. Of all the psychotic disorders, schizoaffective disorder was associated with the largest losses of quality of life, and bipolar I disorder with equal or smaller losses than schizophrenia. However, the subjective loss of qualify of life associated with psychotic disorders may be smaller than objective disability, which warrants attention. Depressive symptoms were the most important determinant of poor quality of life in all psychotic disorders. In conclusion, subjects with psychotic disorders need regular somatic health monitoring. Also, health care workers should evaluate the overall quality of life and depression of subjects with psychotic disorders in order to provide them with the basic necessities of life.

Vision based indoor positioning in a retail environment

Modern smart phones often come with a significant amount of computational power and an integrated digital camera making them an ideal platform for intelligents assistants. This work is restricted to retail environments, where users could be provided with for example navigational in- structions to desired products or information about special offers within their close proximity. This kind of applications usually require information about the user's current location in the domain environment, which in our case corresponds to a retail store. We propose a vision based positioning approach that recognizes products the user's mobile phone's camera is currently pointing at. The products are related to locations within the store, which enables us to locate the user by pointing the mobile phone's camera to a group of products. The first step of our method is to extract meaningful features from digital images. We use the Scale- Invariant Feature Transform SIFT algorithm, which extracts features that are highly distinctive in the sense that they can be correctly matched against a large database of features from many images. We collect a comprehensive set of images from all meaningful locations within our domain and extract the SIFT features from each of these images. As the SIFT features are of high dimensionality and thus comparing individual features is infeasible, we apply the Bags of Keypoints method which creates a generic representation, visual category, from all features extracted from images taken from a specific location. A category for an unseen image can be deduced by extracting the corresponding SIFT features and by choosing the category that best fits the extracted features. We have applied the proposed method within a Finnish supermarket. We consider grocery shelves as categories which is a sufficient level of accuracy to help users navigate or to provide useful information about nearby products. We achieve a 40% accuracy which is quite low for commercial applications while significantly outperforming the random guess baseline. Our results suggest that the accuracy of the classification could be increased with a deeper analysis on the domain and by combining existing positioning methods with ours.

Elämänmuutoksen, jännityksen ja asiantuntijuuden representointi Veikkaus Oy:n mainonnassa vuosina 1970— 2006

Aim of this master's thesis paper for consumer economics, is to research gambling advertisements in Finland over a period of 35 years, from 1970 to 2006. Veikkaus Oy (later Veikkaus), was founded in 1940, as one of the three licensed gambling organizations in Finland. Material for the current research comprised 1494 advertisements published by Veikkaus in newspapers and magazines at that time. Veikkaus has the exclusive licence to organize lotto games, sport games, instant games and other draw games in Finland. The other two operators, The Finnish Slot Machine Association RAY and Fintoto (on-track horse betting), were not included in the current analysis. This study has been completed according to research contract and grand by the Finnish Foundation for Gaming Research (Pelitoiminnan tutkimussäätiö). In general, advertisements reflect surrounding culture and time, and their message is built on stratified meanings, symbols and codes. Advertising draws the viewer's attention, introduces the advertised subject, and finally, affects the individual's consumption habits. However, advertisements not only work on individual level, but also influence public perception of the advertised product. Firstly, in order to assess gambling as a phenomenon, this paper discusses gambling as consumer behaviour, and also reviews history of gambling in Finland. Winning is a major feature of gambling, and dreaming about positive change of life is a centre of most gambling ads. However, perceived excitement through risk of losing can also be featured in gambling ads. Secondly, this study utilizes Veikkaus’ large advertising archives, were advertising data is analyzed by content analysis and the semiotic analysis. Two methods have been employed to support analyzing outcome in a synergistic way. Content analysis helps to achieve accuracy and comprehensiveness. Semiotic analysis allows deeper and more sensitive analysis to emerged findings and occurrences. It is important to understand the advertised product, as advertising is bound to the culture and time. Hence, to analyze advertising, it is important to understand the environment where the ads appear. Content analysis of Veikkaus data discovered the main gambling and principal advertisement style for each.period. Interestingly, nearly half of Veikkaus’ advertisements promoted topic other than “just winning the bet”. Games of change, like Lotto, typically advertised indirectly represented dreams about winning. In the category of skill gambling, features were represented as investment, and the excitement of sporting expertise was emphasized. In addition, there were a number of gambling ads that emphasize social responsibility of Veikkaus as a government guided organization. Semiotic methods were employed to further elaborate on findings of content analysis. Dreaming in the advertisements was represented by the product of symbols, (e.g. cars and homes) that were found to have significance connection with each other. Thus, advertising represents change of life obtained by the winning. Interestingly, gambling ads promoting jackpots were often representing religious symbolisms. Ads promoting social responsibility were found to be the most common during economical depression of the 90’s. Deeper analysis showed that at that time, advertisements frequently represented depression-related meanings, such as unemployment and bank loans. Skill gaming ads were often represented by sports expertise – late 90’s, their number started sky rocketing, and continued increasing until 2006 (when this study ended). One may conclude that sport betting draws its meanings from the relevant consumer culture, and from the rules and features of the betted sport.

Kestävästi vaihtuva muoti : Kestävän muodin mahdollisuudet ja haasteet vaatesuunnittelijan näkökulmasta

The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.

Embracing Integrability in Stellar and Planetary Dynamics

Hamiltonian systems in stellar and planetary dynamics are typically near integrable. For example, Solar System planets are almost in two-body orbits, and in simulations of the Galaxy, the orbits of stars seem regular. For such systems, sophisticated numerical methods can be developed through integrable approximations. Following this theme, we discuss three distinct problems. We start by considering numerical integration techniques for planetary systems. Perturbation methods (that utilize the integrability of the two-body motion) are preferred over conventional "blind" integration schemes. We introduce perturbation methods formulated with Cartesian variables. In our numerical comparisons, these are superior to their conventional counterparts, but, by definition, lack the energy-preserving properties of symplectic integrators. However, they are exceptionally well suited for relatively short-term integrations in which moderately high positional accuracy is required. The next exercise falls into the category of stability questions in solar systems. Traditionally, the interest has been on the orbital stability of planets, which have been quantified, e.g., by Liapunov exponents. We offer a complementary aspect by considering the protective effect that massive gas giants, like Jupiter, can offer to Earth-like planets inside the habitable zone of a planetary system. Our method produces a single quantity, called the escape rate, which characterizes the system of giant planets. We obtain some interesting results by computing escape rates for the Solar System. Galaxy modelling is our third and final topic. Because of the sheer number of stars (about 10^11 in Milky Way) galaxies are often modelled as smooth potentials hosting distributions of stars. Unfortunately, only a handful of suitable potentials are integrable (harmonic oscillator, isochrone and Stäckel potential). This severely limits the possibilities of finding an integrable approximation for an observed galaxy. A solution to this problem is torus construction; a method for numerically creating a foliation of invariant phase-space tori corresponding to a given target Hamiltonian. Canonically, the invariant tori are constructed by deforming the tori of some existing integrable toy Hamiltonian. Our contribution is to demonstrate how this can be accomplished by using a Stäckel toy Hamiltonian in ellipsoidal coordinates.

Critical leg ischaemia with tissue loss : a challenge for the vascular surgeon

There is a widespread reporting habit of combining the outcomes for patients with rest pain (Fontaine III) and tissue loss (Fontaine IV) under the single category of critical leg ischaemia (CLI). This study focused on patients with ischaemic tissue loss treated with infrainguinal bypass surgery (IBS). All patients included in the study were treated at Helsinki University Central Hospital in 2000-2007. First, ulcer healing time after IBS and factors influencing healing time were prospectively assessed in 2 studies including 148 and 110 patients, respectively. Second,the results of redo IBS were retrospectively evaluated in 593 patients undergoing primary IBS for CLI with tissue loss . Third,long-term outcome were retrospectively analysed in 636 patients who underwent IBS for CLI with tissue loss . Fourth, the outcome of IBS was retrospectively compared with endovascular treatment (PTA) of the infrapopliteal arteries in 1023 CLI patients. Fifth, the influence multidrug resistant Pseudomans aeruginosa (MDR Pa) bacteria contamination in CLI patients treated with IBS was retropectively assessed. Sixty-four patients with positive MDR Pa -culture were matched with 64 MDR Pa - negative controls. Complete ulcer healing rate, including the ischemic ulcers and incisional wounds, was 40% at 6 months after IBS and 75% at one year. Diabetes was a risk factor for prolonged complete ulcer healing time. Ischaemic tissue lesions located in mid-and hindfoot healed poorly. At one year after IBS 50% of the patients were alive with salvaged leg and completely healed ulcers. The absence of gap between tertiary graft patency and leg salvage rates indicates the importance of a patent infrainguinal graft to save a leg with ischaemic tissue loss. Long-term survival for patients with ischaemic tissue loss was poor, 38% at 5 years. Only 30% of the patients were alive without amputation at 5 years. Several of the patient comorbidities increased independently the mortality risk; coronary artery disease, renal insufficiency, chronic obstructive lung disease and high age. When both PTA and bypass is feasible, infrapopliteal PTA as a first-line strategy is expected to achieve similar long-term results to bypass surgery in CLI when redo surgery is actively utilized. MDR Pa in a patient with CLI should be considered as a serious event with increased risk of early major amputation or death. Conclusion: Despite a successful infrainguinal bypass healing of the ischaemic ulcers and incisional wounds ulcer healing is a slow process especially in diabetics. Bypass surgery and PTA improve the outcome of the ischaemic leg but the mortality rate of the patients is high due to their severe comorbidities.

Vieraan aksentin arviointi ja mittaaminen suomessa

In the field of second language (L2) acquisition, the term `foreign accent´ is often used to refer to speech characteristics that differ from the pronunciation of native speakers. Foreign accent may affect the intelligibility and perceived comprehensibility of speech and it is also sometimes associated with negative attitudes. The degree of L2 learners foreign accent and the speech characteristics that account for it have previously been studied through speech perception experiments and acoustic measurements. Perception experiments have shown that native listeners are easily able to identify foreign accent in speech. However to date, no studies have been done on the assessment of foreign accent in the speech of non-native speakers of Finnish. The aim of this study is to examine how native speakers of Finnish rate the degree of foreign accentedness in the speech of Russian L2 learners of Finnish. Furthermore, phonetic analysis is used to study the characteristics of speech that affect the perceived strength of foreign accent. Altogether 96 native speakers of Finnish listened to excerpts of read-aloud and spontaneous Finnish speech from ten Russian and six Finnish female speakers. The Russian speakers were intermediate and advanced learners of Finnish and had all immigrated to Finland as adults. Among the listeners, was a group of teachers of Finnish as an L2, and it was presumed that these teachers had been exposed to foreign accent in Finnish and were used to hearing it. The temporal aspects and segmental properties of speech were phonetically analysed in the speech of the Russian speakers in order to measure their effect on the perceived degree of accent. Although wide differences were observed in the use of the rating scale among the listeners, they were still quite unanimous on which speakers had the strongest foreign accent and which had the mildest. The listeners background factors had little effect on their ratings, and the ratings of the teachers of Finnish as an L2 did not differ from those of the other listeners. However, a clear difference was noted in the ratings of the two types of stimuli used in the perception experiment: the read-aloud speech was rated as more strongly accented than the spontaneous speech. It is important to note that the assessment of foreign accent is affected by many factors and their complex interactions in the experimental setting. Futher the study found that, both the temporal aspects of speech, often associated with fluency, and the number of single deviant phonetic segments contributed to the perceived degree of accentedness in the speech of the native Russian speakers.