Skin Penetration of Epigallocatechin-3-Gallate and Quercetin from Green Tea and Ginkgo biloba Extracts Vehiculated in Cosmetic Formulations

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 mu g/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 mu g/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 mu g/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 mu g/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects. Copyright (C) 2009 S. Karger AG, Basel

A skin surface characterization system based on capacitive image analysis

During the last few years, several methods have been proposed in order to study and to evaluate characteristic properties of the human skin by using non-invasive approaches. Mostly, these methods cover aspects related to either dermatology, to analyze skin physiology and to evaluate the effectiveness of medical treatments in skin diseases, or dermocosmetics and cosmetic science to evaluate, for example, the effectiveness of anti-aging treatments. To these purposes a routine approach must be followed. Although very accurate and high resolution measurements can be achieved by using conventional methods, such as optical or mechanical profilometry for example, their use is quite limited primarily to the high cost of the instrumentation required, which in turn is usually cumbersome, highlighting some of the limitations for a routine based analysis. This thesis aims to investigate the feasibility of a noninvasive skin characterization system based on the analysis of capacitive images of the skin surface. The system relies on a CMOS portable capacitive device which gives 50 micron/pixel resolution capacitance map of the skin micro-relief. In order to extract characteristic features of the skin topography, image analysis techniques, such as watershed segmentation and wavelet analysis, have been used to detect the main structures of interest: wrinkles and plateau of the typical micro-relief pattern. In order to validate the method, the features extracted from a dataset of skin capacitive images acquired during dermatological examinations of a healthy group of volunteers have been compared with the age of the subjects involved, showing good correlation with the skin ageing effect. Detailed analysis of the output of the capacitive sensor compared with optical profilometry of silicone replica of the same skin area has revealed potentiality and some limitations of this technology. Also, applications to follow-up studies, as needed to objectively evaluate the effectiveness of treatments in a routine manner, are discussed.

In contrast to lung fibroblasts--no signs of senescence in skin fibroblasts of patients with emphysema

Smoking is known to be linked to skin ageing and there is evidence for premature senescence of parenchymal lung fibroblasts in emphysema. To reveal whether the emphysema-related changes in cellular phenotype extend beyond the lung, we compared the proliferation characteristics of lung and skin fibroblasts between patients with and without emphysema. Parenchymal lung fibroblasts and skin fibroblasts from the upper torso (thus limiting sun exposure bias) were obtained from patients without, or with mild, or with moderate to severe emphysema undergoing lung surgery. We analysed proliferation rate, population doublings (PD), staining for senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (beta-gal) and gene expression of IGFBP-3 and IGFBP-rP1. Population doubling time of lung fibroblasts differed between control, mild, and moderate to severe emphysema (median (IQR) 29.7(10.0), 33.4(6.1), 44.4(21.2) h; p=0.012) and staining for beta-gal was elevated in moderate to severe emphysema. Compared to control subjects, skin fibroblasts from patients with emphysema did not differ with respect to proliferation rate, PD and beta-gal staining, and showed a lower abundance of mRNA for IGFBP-3 and -rP1 (p<0.05, each). These results suggest that the induction of a senescent fibroblast phenotype by cigarette smoke, as observed in emphysema, primarily occurs in the lung.

Towards standardization of UV eye protection: what can be learned from photodermatology?

While knowledge about standardization of skin protection against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) has progressed over the past few decades, there is no uniform and generally accepted standardized measurement for UV eye protection. The literature provides solid evidence that UV can induce considerable damage to structures of the eye. As well as damaging the eyelids and periorbital skin, chronic UV exposure may also affect the conjunctiva and lens. Clinically, this damage can manifest as skin cancer and premature skin ageing as well as the development of pterygia and premature cortical cataracts. Modern eye protection, used daily, offers the opportunity to prevent these adverse sequelae of lifelong UV exposure. A standardized, reliable and comprehensive label for consumers and professionals is currently lacking. In this review we (i) summarize the existing literature about UV radiation-induced damage to the eye and surrounding skin; (ii) review the recent technological advances in UV protection by means of lenses; (iii) review the definition of the Eye-Sun Protection Factor (E-SPF®), which describes the intrinsic UV protection properties of lenses and lens coating materials based on their capacity to absorb or reflect UV radiation; and (iv) propose a strategy for establishing the biological relevance of the E-SPF.

Gel vs aceite mineral en el tratamiento del fotoenvejecimiento de manos con luz pulsada intensa

Introducción: En el tratamiento con Luz Pulsada Intensa (LPI) para el fotoenvejecimiento de las manos no se encuentran estudios que evidencien si existe alguna diferencia estadísticamente significativa en el grado de efectividad y seguridad al utilizar gel o aceite mineral como medios de acople. Objetivo: Determinar la efectividad y seguridad terapéutica en el uso de gel vs aceite mineral. Materiales y Métodos: Estudio observacional analítico de cohorte retrospectivo que involucró 29 pacientes. Realizado en tres fases; selección y recolección de las historias clínicas, evaluación fotográfica de registros pre tratamiento y pos tratamiento con determinación del grado de mejoría global en el fotoenvejecimiento de las manos por parte de tres evaluadores cegados, y análisis estadístico de los datos obtenidos por medio de las pruebas de Mann Whitney y Wilcoxon. Resultados: Se encontró mejoría dada por disminución en un grado del fotoenvejecimiento para los dos medios de acople con la misma significancia estadística. La percepción subjetiva mostró mejoría en todos los pacientes evaluados. La seguridad es similar en los dos grupos pero se evidenció mayor severidad en los efectos secundarios con el uso de aceite, con diferencias estadísticamente significativas en los efectos moderados y severos. Conclusión: La efectividad es la misma independiente del medio de acople que se use. La seguridad a pesar de evidenciar un perfil similar es mayor con el uso de gel en cuanto a la menor severidad de los efectos presentados. Se requieren más estudios de tipo ensayos clínicos controlados que permitan determinar una mayor evidencia.

Escala para valoración cliníca de fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo en la cara

Introducción: el fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo es causado principalmente por la exposición crónica y acumulativa a los rayos ultravioleta. Las clasificaciones y escalas existentes evalúan el envejecimiento cutáneo de forma global y no existe un instrumento que valore exclusivamente el fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo. Objetivo: Construir y realizar la validación de contenido, de una escala para valoración clínica del fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo en la cara. Materiales y métodos: Estudio de validez de contenido, de una escala para valoración clínica del fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo en cara, construida a partir del marco conceptual, y evaluada por 15 expertos con especialidades médicas que manejan el fotoenvejecimiento. Los datos obtenidos se analizaron así: porcentaje de la pertinencia; la media; coeficiente de variación (CV) e índice de validez de contenido por ítem (CVIi) de cada ítem incluido en la escala. Resultados: Para el grupo de 15 expertos evaluadores, la pertinencia de los 6 ítems incluidos en los criterios clínicos, arrojo una media de 4,2/5 con CVIi entre 73,3% y 100% y con CV por debajo del 20%; el ítem de surcos tuvo un CV de 26,93%; la pertinencia de los 5 ítems incluidos en los antecedentes, arrojo una media de 3,9/5, un CVIi entre 73,3% y 80% y un CV entre 33,67% y 39,84%. Discusión y conclusiones: La validez de contenido de los criterios clínicos de la escala cumplió en un nivel alto con la pertinencia, lo que indica que miden adecuada y exclusivamente las dimensiones del grado clínico de fotoenvejecimiento cutáneo en cara evaluado por los expertos.

A fisiologia da pele de rato é modificada pela idade

Os modelos animais têm sido úteis para estudar mecanismos específicos que afetam a pele humana. É o caso do envelhecimento e das alterações micromecânicas que determinam o enrugamento (a formação de rugas) nos ratinhos irradiados com UV. Estes modelos permitiram perceber que o envelhecimento envolve muitas respostas mecânicas peculiares que não podem ser explicadas pela deformação homogénea da pele. No entanto, a diferença entre o tempo de vida destas espécies afeta também os processos e este é um aspeto principal a ter em conta. Este projeto é direcionado à comparação das propriedades cutâneas de dois grupos de ratos Wistar com diferentes idades – ratos jovens-adultos (n=7, 20-24 semanas) e adultos-velhos (n=5, 48-72 semanas). Medições não-invasivas de perda transepidérmica de água (PTEA), hidratação superficial (MoistureMeter) e biomecânica (Reviscometer e Cutometer por MPA80) foram realizadas nas zonas dorsais (pescoço, dorso-posterior) do animal durante 5 dias, permitindo comparações estatísticas entre grupos. Os resultados não revelaram diferenças significativas para a PTEA, firmeza ou viscoelasticidade entre os dois grupos. Contudo, foi notada uma diminuição significativa, próxima de 40%, da hidratação da pele no grupo dos ratos adultos-velhos. Estes resultados, apesar de preliminares, se fizermos a translação para os seres humanos poderiam ser úteis para avaliar mudanças relacionadas à idade em processos como a recuperação cutânea, ou eficácia / segurança de pensos, onde a hidratação é um factor determinante. Asua potencial utilização para a predição da eficácia e/ou segurança dos produtos de aplicação tópica para idosos em comparação aos adultos merecem ser exploradas.

Reliable assessment of forearm photoageing by high-frequency ultrasound: a cross-sectional study

High-frequency ultrasound is a non-invasive tool used in skin ageing research to assess dermis thickness and echogenicity. This study evaluated the reliability of a range of high-frequency ultrasound parameters and tested their correlation with age and a validated clinical scale for the assessment of forearm skin photoageing; the difference between two body sites according to environmental exposition patterns was also investigated. Twenty-three volunteers aged 28-82 years were divided into three groups according to forearm photoageing degree. A 20 MHz ultrasound unit was used to obtain cross-sectional images of the skin by two trained investigators on two different sites: the dorsal forearm (chronically photoexposed skin) and the proximal medial arm (non-photoexposed skin). Several echogenicity parameters were studied for each skin compartment: total dermis, upper dermis and lower dermis, and the ratio between upper and lower dermis. The intraclass correlation coefficient (for complete agreement) between investigators was higher for upper and total dermis echogenicity measures compared with the lower dermis. At the non-photoexposed site, the upper and lower dermis parameter ratio was better correlated with age. At the photoexposed area, total dermis parameters demonstrated higher correlations with clinical score. The authors discuss the choice of parameters for forearm photoageing assessment using high-frequency ultrasound.

The relative roles of DNA damage induced by UVA irradiation in human cells

UVA light (320–400 nm) represents approximately 95% of the total solar UV radiation that reaches the Earth’s surface. UVA light induces oxidative stress and the formation of DNA photoproducts in skin cells. These photoproducts such as pyrimidine dimers (cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers, CPDs, and pyrimidine (6-4) pyrimidone photoproducts, 6-4PPs) are removed by nucleotide excision repair (NER). In this repair pathway, the XPA protein is recruited to the damage removal site; therefore, cells deficient in this protein are unable to repair the photoproducts. The aim of this study was to investigate the involvement of oxidative stress and the formation of DNA photoproducts in UVA-induced cell death. In fact, similar levels of oxidative stress and oxidised bases were detected in XP-A and NER-proficient cells exposed to UVA light. Interestingly, CPDs were detected in both cell lines; however, 6-4PPs were detected only in DNA repairdeficient cells. XP-A cells were also observed to be significantly more sensitive to UVA light compared to NER-proficient cells, with an increased induction of apoptosis, while necrosis was similarly observed in both cell lines. The induction of apoptosis and necrosis in XP-A cells using adenovirus-mediated transduction of specific photolyases was investigated and we confirm that both types of photoproducts are the primary lesions responsible for inducing cell death in XP-A cells and may trigger the skin-damaging effects of UVA light, particularly skin ageing and carcinogenesis.

Towards standardization of UV eye protection:what can be learned from photodermatology?

While knowledge about standardization of skin protection against ultraviolet radiation (UVR) has progressed over the past few decades, there is no uniform and generally accepted standardized measurement for UV eye protection. The literature provides solid evidence that UV can induce considerable damage to structures of the eye. As well as damaging the eyelids and periorbital skin, chronic UV exposure may also affect the conjunctiva and lens. Clinically, this damage can manifest as skin cancer and premature skin ageing as well as the development of pterygia and premature cortical cataracts. Modern eye protection, used daily, offers the opportunity to prevent these adverse sequelae of lifelong UV exposure. A standardized, reliable and comprehensive label for consumers and professionals is currently lacking. In this review we (i) summarize the existing literature about UV radiation-induced damage to the eye and surrounding skin; (ii) review the recent technological advances in UV protection by means of lenses; (iii) review the definition of the Eye-Sun Protection Factor (E-SPF®), which describes the intrinsic UV protection properties of lenses and lens coating materials based on their capacity to absorb or reflect UV radiation; and (iv) propose a strategy for establishing the biological relevance of the E-SPF. © 2013 John Wiley & Sons A/S.

Assessment of a protease inhibitor peptide for anti-ageing

Ageing and skin exposure to UV radiation induces production and activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and human neutrophil elastase (HNE). These enzymes are known to break down the extracellular matrix (ECM) which leads to wrinkle formation. Here, we demonstrated the potential of a solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing a competitive inhibitor peptide of HNE mixed with hyaluronic acid (HA), displaying 158 nm of mean diameter, to protect the skin against the ageing effects. Western blot analysis demonstrated that activation of MMP-1 in fibroblasts by HNE treatment is inhibited by the solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing the peptide and HA. The results clearly demonstrate that solid-in-oil nanodispersion containing the HNE inhibitor peptide is a promising strategy for anti-ageing effects. This effect can be seen particularly by ECM regulation by affecting fibroblasts. The formulation also enhances the formation of thicker bundles of actin filaments.

Prevalence of excessive daytime sleepiness in Brazilian community-dwelling older adults with very low levels of schooling, and its association with sociodemographic characteristics and lifestyle: the Bambuí Health and Ageing Study (BHAS)

OBJECTIVE: Population-based studies on excessive daytime sleepiness (EDS) in older adults living in less developed countries are scarce. The purpose of this paper was to estimate the prevalence of EDS and its association with sociodemographic characteristics and lifestyle factors in Brazilian community-dwelling older adults. METHODS: The study was carried out in Bambuí, a city in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil. EDS was defined as the presence of sleepiness in the last month occurring three or more times per week, with any interference in usual activities. The exploratory variables were: gender, age, skin color, marital status, schooling level, current employment status, religion, recent migration, smoking, binge drinking and physical activities during leisure time. RESULTS: Of 1,742 residents aged > 60 years, 1,514 (86.9%) participated. The prevalence of EDS was 13%. After adjustment for confounders, female gender and low schooling level remained positively and independently associated with EDS. CONCLUSIONS: The prevalence of EDS in the study population was within the range observed in studies carried out in developed countries. The most impressive finding was the association of EDS with schooling, indicating that even in a population with low levels of schooling, this was an important factor to explain the distribution of EDS.

Antiageing mechanisms of a standardized supercritical CO2 preparation of Black Jack (Bidens pilosa L.) in human fibroblasts and skin fragments

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

The impact of ageing on the barriers to drug delivery

Generally, we like to see ageing as a process that is happening to people older than ourselves. However the process of ageing impacts on a wide range of functions within the human body. Whilst many of the outcomes of ageing can now be delayed or reduced, age-related changes in cellular, molecular and physiological functionality of tissues and organs can also influence how drugs enter, distribute and are eliminated from the body. Therefore, the changing profile of barriers to drug delivery should be considered if we are to develop more age-appropriate medicines. Changes in the drug dissolution and absorption in older patients may require the formulation of oral delivery systems that offer enhanced retention at absorption sites to improve drug delivery. Alternatively, liquid and fast-melt dosage systems may address the need of patients who have difficulties in swallowing medication. Ageing-induced changes in the lung can also result in slower drug absorption, which is further compounded by disease factors, common in an ageing population, that reduce lung capacity. In terms of barriers to drug delivery to the eye, the main consideration is the tear film, which like other barriers to drug delivery, changes with normal ageing and can impact on the bioavailability of drugs delivery using eye drops and suspensions. In contrast, whilst the skin as a barrier changes with age, no significant difference in absorption of drugs from transdermal drug delivery is observed in different age groups. However, due to the age-related pharmacokinetic and pharmacodynamic changes, dose adaptation should still be considered for drug delivery across the skin. Overall it is clear that the increasing age demographic of most populations, presents new (or should that be older) barriers to effective drug delivery. © 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.