Natural dyes.

Bibliography: p. 99-100.

Home dyeing with natural dyes /

Contribution from Bureau of Home Economics.

Light harvesting in solar cells using natural pigments from red fruits adsorbed to mesoporous TiO2

Nature has developed strategies to present us with a wide variety of colours, from the green of leaves to the bright colours seen in flowers. Anthocyanins are between these natural pigments that are responsible for the great diversity of colours seen in flowers and fruits. Anthocyanins have been used to sensitize titanium dioxide (TiO2) in Dye-Sensitized Solar Cells (DSSCs). DSSCs have become one of the most popular research topic in photovoltaic cells due to their low production costs when compared to other alternatives. DSSCs are inspired in what happens in nature during photosynthesis. A primary charge separation is achieved by means of a photoexcited dye capable of performing the electron injection into the conduction band of a wide band-gap semiconductor, usually TiO2. With this work we aimed to synthesize a novel mesoporous TiO2 structure as the semiconductor in order to increase the dye loading. We used natural occurring dyes such as anthocyanins and their synthetic flavylium relatives, as an alternative to the widely used metal complexes of Ru(II) which are expensive and are environmentally unsafe. This offers not only the chance to use safer dyes for DSSCs, but also to take profit of waste biological products, such as wine and olive oil production residues that are heavily loaded with anthocyanin dyes. We also performed a photodegradation study using TiO2 as the catalyst to degrade dye contaminants, such as those from the wine production waste, by photo-irradiation of the system in the visible region of the light spectrum. We were able to succeed in the synthesis of mesoporous TiO2 both powder and thin film, with a high capacity to load a large amount of dye. We proved the concept of photodegradation using TiO2 as catalyst. And finally, we show that wine production waste is a possible dye source to DSSCs application.

Efficient and low cost devices for solar energy conversion: Efficiency and stability of some natural-dye-sensitized solar cells

Dye-sensitized solar cells, named by us Dye-Cells, are one of the most promising devices for solar energy conversion due to their reduced production cost and low environmental impact, especially those sensitized by natural dyes. The efficiency and stability of devices based on natural sensitizers such as mulberry (Morus alba Lam), blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus Lam), and jaboticaba`s skin (Mirtus cauliflora Mart) were investigated. Dye-Cells prepared with aqueous mulberry extract presented the highest P(max) value (1.6 mW cm(-2)) with J(sc) = 6.14 mA cm(-2) and V(oc) = 0.49 V, Photoelectrochemical parameters of 16 cm(2) active area devices sensitized by mulberry dye were constant for 14 weeks of continuous evaluation. Moreover, the cell remained stable even after 36 weeks with a fairly good efficiency. Therefore, mulberry dye opens up a perspective of commercial feasibility for inexpensive and environmentally friendly Dye-Cells. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Traditional knowledge of medicinal plants in the Serra de Mariola Natural Park, South-eastern Spain

The present study aims to inventory and analyse the ethnobotanical knowledge about medicinal plants in the Serra de Mariola Natural Park. In respect to traditional uses, 93 species reported by local informants were therapeutic, 27 food, 4 natural dyes and 13 handcrafts. We developed a methodology that allowed the location of individuals or vegetation communities with a specific popular use. We prepared a geographic information system (GIS) that included gender, family, scientific nomenclature and common names in Spanish and Catalan for each species. We also made a classification of 39 medicinal uses from ATC (Anatomical, Therapeutic, Chemical classification system). Labiatae (n=19), Compositae (n=9) and Leguminosae (n=6) were the families most represented among the plants used to different purposes in humans. Species with the most elevated cultural importance index (CI) values were Thymus vulgaris (CI=1.431), Rosmarinus officinalis (CI=1.415), Eryngium campestre (CI=1.325), Verbascum sinuatum (CI=1.106) and Sideritis angustifolia (CI=1.041). Thus, the collected plants with more therapeutic uses were: Lippia triphylla (12), Thymus vulgaris and Allium roseum (9) and Erygium campestre (8). The most repeated ATC uses were: G04 (urological use), D03 (treatment of wounds and ulcers) and R02 (throat diseases). These results were in a geographic map where each point represented an individual of any species. A database was created with the corresponding therapeutic uses. This application is useful for the identification of individuals and the selection of species for specific medicinal properties. In the end, knowledge of these useful plants may be interesting to revive the local economy and in some cases promote their cultivation.

Studies on betanin natural dye incorporated ZnO composites at nano and micro scale for photonic device applications

Green energy and Green technology are the most of the quoted terms in the context of modern science and technology. Technology which is close to nature is the necessity of the modern world which is haunted by global warming and climatic alterations. Proper utilization of solar energy is one of the goals of Green Energy Movement. The present thesis deals with the work carried out in the eld of nanotechnology and its possible use in various applications (employing natural dyes) like solar cells. Unlike arti cial dyes, the natural dyes are available, easy to prepare, low in cost, non-toxic, environmentally friendly and fully biodegradable. Looking to the 21st century, the nano/micro sciences will be a chief contributor to scienti c and technological developments. As nanotechnology progresses and complex nanosystems are fabricated, a growing impetus is being given to the development of multi-functional and size-dependent materials. The control of the morphology, from the nano to the micrometer scales, associated with the incorporation of several functionalities can yield entirely new smart hybrid materials. They are special class of materials which provide a new method for the improvement of the environmental stability of the material with interesting optical properties and opening a land of opportunities for applications in the eld of photonics. Zinc oxide (ZnO) is one such multipurpose material that has been explored for applications in sensing, environmental monitoring, and bio-medical systems and communications technology. Understanding the growth mechanism and tailoring their morphology is essential for the use of ZnO crystals as nano/micro electromechanical systems and also as building blocks of other nanosystems.

Extração, caracterização e aplicação do corante de urucum (Bixa orellana L.) no tingimento de fibras naturais

The increasing demand for natural dyes in place of synthetic ones is justified by the non-toxicity or low toxicity of the former. The synthetic dyes are associated with diseases like cancer as well as when released in the environment takes longer to degrade and the intermediates could be still more toxic. The Annatto (Bixa Orellana L.) is a carotenoid and one of the more important natural dyes used in the food industry. In the form of dye, it represents nearly 70% of the world natural dye production and 90% in Brazil. In the present work, annatto seeds were used of the species peruana paulista, which had nearly 2.1% of bixin. The process of dye extraction with ethyl alcohol showed 4% of dye in the form of powder with particle diameter of 28mm. The extraction process did not alter the chemical composition of the dye, which was confirmed by the electronic spectrum of absorption. Dyeings were carried out with different mordents to study the total colour difference as well as the wash fastness properties and friction fastness properties under wet and dry conditions. The samples treated with copper sulphate showed colour difference but at the same time showed better fastness results. The samples treated with resin (no formaldehyde) did not alter the colour significantly still better the fastness properties. From the results, it could be stated that the resin could be an alternative for heavy metallic mordents

CIMBNC- Combination and interactions of three kinds of nanoclays structural modifiers, for the colored bio-nanocomposites optimization

Biopolymers do not have competitive prices, which has prevented their industrial exploitation on a global scale so far. In this context, Using nanoclays, improvements in certain biopolymer properties, mainly mechanical and thermal, have been achieved. However, research has been much less focused on changing optical properties through the incorporation of nanoclays. At the same time, current research has focused on obtaining nanopigments, by organic dyes adsoptions into different nanoclays in order to achieve sustainable colouring and high performance materials. By combining advances in these lines of research, biodegradable composites with optimal mechanical and optical properties can be obtained. The aim of this work is to find the optimal formulation of naturally sourced nanopigments, incorporate them into a biological origin epoxy resin, and obtain a significant improvement in their mechanical, and optical properties. We combine three structural modifiers in the nanopigment synthesis: surfactant, silane and mordant salt. The latter was selected in order to replicate the mordant textile dyeing with natural dyes. Using a Taguchi’s desing L8, we look for the effect of the presence of the modifiers, the pH acidification, and the interactions effect between the synthesis factors. Three natural dyes were selected: chlorophyll, beta-carotene, and beetroot extract. Furthermore we use two kinds of laminar nanoclays, differentiated by the ion exchange charge: montmorillonite, and hydrotalcite. Then the thermal, mechanical and colorimetric characterization of the bionanocomposite materials was carried out. The optimal conditions to obtain the best bionanocomposite materials are using acid pH, and modifying the nanoclays with mordant and surfactant.

Produção e extração da enzima anidrase carbônica e de ficobiliproteínas a partir de microalgas

Muito interesse tem sido focado no potencial biotecnológico das microalgas, principalmente devido à identificação de diversas substâncias sintetizadas por estes organismos, dentre elas a anidrase carbônica e as ficobiliproteínas. A anidrase carbônica é uma metaloenzima que catalisa a hidratação reversível do CO2 em bicarbonato com alta eficiência, sendo utilizada para captação de CO2 através de sistemas biológicos. A C-ficocianina e a aloficocianina, corantes naturais, são os dois principais componentes das ficobiliproteínas em cianobactérias e apresentam diversas aplicações dentro da indústria alimentícia, cosmética e farmacêutica. O objetivo principal desta tese foi avaliar a produção e a extração da anidrase carbônica e das ficobiliproteínas a partir de diferentes microalgas. Para isso, primeiramente foi realizado uma investigação da produção da anidrase carbônica pela microalga Dunaliella tertiolecta, onde foi estudada a extração da enzima e sua aplicação em sistemas de captura enzimática de CO2. Posteriormente foi avaliada a produção da enzima ao longo do cultivo de diferentes microalgas marinhas e dulcícolas (Dunaliella tertiolecta, Tetraselmis sueccica, Phaeodactylum tricornutum, Nannochloropsis oculata, Isochysis galbana, Chlorella vulgaris e Scenedesmus obliquus). A produção da enzima e de ficobiliproteínas, também, foi estudada para as cianobactérias Spirulina platensis LEB 52, Spirulina sp. LEB 18 e Synechococcus nidulans. Todos os cultivos foram acompanhados em termos de biomassa e pH. Por último, foi realizado um estudo de extração da enzima de P. tricornutum e extração conjunta da anidrase carbônica e de ficobiliproteínas da cianobactéria S. sp. LEB 18. Os cultivos foram realizados em frascos erlenmeyer contendo os meios Conway (marinhas), BG-11 (dulcícolas) e Zarrouk 20% (cianobactérias). Na avaliação da ruptura celular foram testadas as técnicas de maceração em gral e pistilo, agitação em vórtex com pérolas de vidro, sonicação com pérolas de vidro, homogeneizador ultrassônico, secagem, congelamento e descongelamento e a combinação de tratamentos. Maiores rendimentos de extração da enzima a partir da microalga D. tertiolecta foram obtidos utilizando tratamento ultrassônico, juntamente com baixas concentrações de biomassa úmida (0,1 e 0,2 g/L), e a mesma apresentou potencial para aplicação em processos de captação enzimática do CO2. Durante os cultivos, a microalga C. vulgaris se destacou como maior produtora da enzima anidrase carbônica, atingindo valores de atividade enzimática de 44,0 U/L. As cianobactérias apresentaram valores de atividade entre 41,6 e 45,9 U/L, sendo que a S. sp. LEB 18 foi a que apresentou maiores produções de C-ficocianina e aloficocianina no ponto de máxima atividade volumétrica, 65,9 e 82,2 µg/mL, respectivamente. A enzima extraída da biomassa de S. platensis LEB 52 catalisou a hidratação do CO2 que precipitou na forma de CaCO3. Maiores rendimentos de extração da enzima a partir das microalgas P. tricornutum e S. sp. LEB 18 foram obtidos utilizando homogeneizador ultrassônico, que foram 31,3 U/g e 25,5 U/g, respectivamente. A biomassa de S. sp. LEB 18, também apresentou potencial para a extração de ficobiliproteínas, obtendo- se altas concentrações de C-ficocianina (100,5 mg/g) e aloficocianina (69,9 mg/g). Através dos resultados obtidos, pode-se verificar a potencialidade das microalgas e das cianobactérias para produção da enzima anidrase carbônica e das ficobiliproteínas, biomoléculas de alto valor industrial. Este trabalho apresenta processos eficientes para a extração da enzima e de ficobiliproteínas tanto para escala laboratorial como industrial.

Francisco Pizarro' s banner of arms: an analytical work contributing to latin America's history

The study of textiles is an open area of scientific research, which for its variety of material components and physical chemical diversity of conditions, makes a field of interest for scientific studies in the cultural heritage field. Archaeological/historical textiles offer the possibility to carry out studies on organic materials such as fibers, adhesion elements, dyes, paper, etc., as well as on inorganic compounds for instance metals, alloys, precious stones and other added ornamentation. That variety of composition, allow to use a combination of analytical techniques to solve the questions coming from the object in an archaeometric research. One kind of textile object that provides a valuable cultural information because of its linguistic representation employed by its carrier societies, are the flags/banners/emblems, objects made with a nonverbal communication purpose. As long as depending on the use and/or purpose of each object, varies both the materials/techniques used in its production and its iconography (style, color, emblem, shape), its study gives the possibility to extract information through their materials and manufacturing techniques about a temporal-spatial frame, a particular event or a specific character. The flags/banners have been used since the eleventh century as representative objects of power, hierarchy, social or military organization, or as communicative media. The use of these objects has been spread throughout the world, possibly due to its easy interpretation and/or appropriation by different societies, making it part of their own culture. The flags as symbols of territorial control, using emblems that represent a family, order or army, were introduced to the New World (America) with the arrival of the European conquerors at the end of the fifteenth century. Flags/banners representing the Royal dominion over conquered territories, the Catholic Church and conquistadors’ armies were the first to arrive. One of those flags that have endured over time, that have an invaluable cultural meaning for both American and Iberian societies, is the so-called Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms. It is a textile object with metal threads decoration over a Royal emblem. According to historical sources, this object was used by Francisco Pizarro in 1532 on the conquest process of Peru, after received the permission by King Charles V to on behalf of him, to conquer the lands of the New World today known as Peru. After Pizarro’s control of the Inca territory, it is believed that Pizarro left his banner on top of the Inca’s Sun’s Temple as symbol of his rule. Centuries later, in the America libertarian campaigns, General Sucre, military at charge of the independence army in Peru, reports have found what he considered the Pizarro’s Banner, sending it to Bogotá as a symbol of victory, being kept since that time until today by the National Museum of Colombia. Due to historical discrepancies in the different movements of the so-called Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, its real meaning has been under discussion and because of the passage of time its physical condition has suffer deterioration. That is because its scientific study is now an interesting case study to respond to both historical and conservation questions of it. Through a collaboration with the National Museum of Colombia, a set of 25 samples of so-called Pizarro’s Banner of Arms were collected, covering the various components and areas from the object of study. These samples were subjected to analytical studies for physical and chemical characterization. Microscopic observation, VSEM-EDS analysis, Raman spectroscopy, chromatographic analysis (HPLC-MS, GCMS) and radiocarbon dating were done. Similarly, was sought through a direct in situ physical inspection to the object and through a research into historical sources, adequate information to solve the object’s problems. Results obtained allowed to identify as silk the textile used in the elaboration of the Banner’s fabric, as well as the use of natural dyes for dyeing the fibers used on the emblem: use of cochineal and brazil wood as a source of red, luteolin plant-based for yellow color, indigotine plant-based for blue, and a mixture of yellow and blue dyes for green were identified. Similarly, the use of animal glue in the manufacturing process and the use of rag paper was evident. The metal threads study from the Banner give a confirmation to a silver core wire gilded with a thin gold sheet, being flattened and entwined with silk threads for their use. Finally, using the radiocarbon results, it was possible to postulate with huge accuracy that the Banner date manufacture was between the XV-XVI century and subject to restoration processes with addition of textiles in modern times. Together with, was evident that the state of degradation of the fabric is due to natural degradation in the silk fibers, having that its color has faded and its mechanical properties decreased, leading to loss of rigidity and disappearance of the physical structure. Similarly, it was clear the original colors of the emblem and highlight problems of detachment of paper due to crystallization of the adhesive. In the same way, was found that the metal threads suffer corrosion by sulfur and detachment of its crystals. Finally, combining the analytical results and the historical sources data found from the so-called Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, allows to postulate that its manufacture process was done in Europe employing precious materials to obtain a long-life object with a deep message for its viewers. Also, the data obtained helps to support the possible idea that the object was employed by Francisco Pizarro in the Peru conquest process. However, by the symbols present in the object, its elaboration date and materials, this object its clearly unique in its kind, and the most important, by its linguistic message, does not represent to Francisco Pizarro or his army, meanwhile, represents the Spanish crown. Therefore, instead to be labeled as Francisco Pizarro’s Banner of Arms, it should be called the Colonial Royal Banner of Charles V in the New World; RESUMEN: El estudio de textiles es un área abierta de investigación científica, la cual por su variedad de componentes materiales y la diversidad de condiciones físico-químicas presentes en estos objetos, lo hace un campo de interés para estudios científicos en el patrimonio cultural. Los textiles arqueológicos/históricos brindan la posibilidad de realizar estudios en materiales orgánicos como fibras, elementos de adhesión, tinturas, papel, etc., e inorgánicos como metales, aleaciones, piedras preciosas y demás materiales decorativos añadidos. Por su variedad de composición, es posible emplear diversas técnicas analíticas para resolver aquellas preguntas propias del objeto en una investigación arqueométrica. Uno de los objetos textiles que brinda gran información cultural debido a su representación lingüística empleada por las sociedades portadoras, son las banderas/estandartes/emblemas. Donde varía dependiendo de su uso y/o propósito, los materiales empleados en su elaboración, al igual que su iconografía (estilo, color, emblema, forma). El estudio de estos objetos construidos con un propósito de comunicación no verbal, da la posibilidad de extraer información a través de sus materiales y técnicas de elaboración sobre un rango temporal-espacial, un evento determinado en la historia o incluso a un personaje en específico. Las banderas han sido empleadas desde el siglo XI como objetos representativos de poder, jerarquía, organización social o militar, o como medio de comunicación. El uso de estos objetos se ha extendido a lo largo del mundo posiblemente debido a su fácil interpretación y/o apropiación por distintas sociedades, haciéndolo parte de su cultura. Las banderas como símbolos de control territorial, empleando símbolos que representan a una familia, orden o armada fueron introducidas a el Nuevo Mundo (América) con la llegada de los conquistadores europeos al final del siglo XV. Las banderas/estandartes que representaban el dominio Real sobre territorios dominados, la iglesia católica y las banderas de ejércitos y/o conquistadores fueron las primeras en llegar al nuevo mundo. Una de aquellas banderas que ha soportado el paso del tiempo, teniendo un gran valor cultural tanto para las sociedades americanas como para las ibéricas, es el denominado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro. Siendo un objeto textil con decoración en hilos metálicos sobre un emblema Real. De acuerdo a fuentes históricas, este objeto fue usado por Francisco Pizarro en 1532 en el proceso de conquista del Perú, quien recibe por parte del Rey Carlos V el poder para que, en su nombre, Pizarro pueda conquistar las tierras del nuevo mundo hoy conocidas como Perú. Luego del dominio de Pizarro sobre el territorio Inca, se cree que Pizarro dejó su estandarte en la cima del templo Inca del sol como símbolo de su control. Siglos más tarde, en las campañas libertarias de América, el General Sucre, militar encargado de la armada independentista en Perú, reporta haber encontrado lo que él considera como el estandarte de Pizarro, enviándolo a Bogotá como muestra de victoria, siendo custodiada desde ese momento por el Museo Nacional de Colombia hasta la actualidad. Debido a discrepancias históricas, el verdadero significado del llamado estandarte de Pizarro ha sido objeto de discusión y debido del pasar del tiempo su estado de conservación se ha deteriorado. Dejando de este modo, un caso de estudio interesante para que por medio de estudios científicos al objeto se pueda dar respuesta a preguntas tanto históricas como de conservación del mismo. De este modo, por medio de una colaboración con el Museo Nacional de Colombia, se obtuvo un juego de 25 muestras del llamado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, abarcando los diferentes componentes y áreas del objeto de estudio. Dichas muestras fueron sometidas a estudios analíticos para su caracterización físico-química. Análisis de observación al microscopio, análisis VSEM-EDS, espectroscopia Raman, análisis cromatográficos (HPLC-MS, GC-MS) y datación por radiocarbono catorce fueron realizados. Del mismo modo, por medio de una inspección física al objeto in situ y una profunda investigación en fuentes históricas del mismo, se buscó la información adecuada para resolver sus problemáticas. Los resultados obtenidos permitieron identificar como seda el textil empleado en la elaboración del estandarte, así como el uso de colorantes naturales para teñir las fibras en el emblema: uso de cochinilla y palo de Brasil como fuente del color rojo, plantas a base de luteolin para el color amarillo, plantas a base de indigotina para el color azul y mezcla de colorantes amarillos y azules para el color verde fueron identificadas. Del mismo modo se evidencio el uso de adhesivos animales y el uso de papel de trapos en el proceso de manufactura. El estudio de los hilos metálicos, permitió evidenciar el uso de alambres con núcleos de plata con un fino recubrimiento de oro en su exterior, siendo aplanados y entrelazados con hilos de seda para su uso. Finalmente usando la datación por radiocarbono, fue posible conocer con alta precisión que el estandarte fue elaborado entre los siglos XV-XVI y sufrió procesos de restauración con añadidura de textiles en tiempos modernos. Junto a lo anterior, es posible postular que el estado de degradación de la tela es debido a degradación natural en las fibras de seda, teniendo así que su color se ha desvanecido y sus propiedades mecánicas disminuidas, conllevando a perdida de rigidez y desaparición de la estructura. Del mismo modo se pudo conocer los colores originales del emblema y evidenciar problemas de desprendimiento del papel debido a cristalización del adhesivo. Asimismo, se comprobó que los hilos metálicos presentan corrosión por azufre y desprendimiento de sus cristales. Finalmente, combinando los resultados analíticos y la información de fuentes históricas encontradas del llamado Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, se puede postular que su elaboración fue realizada en Europa, usando materiales preciosos para obtener un objeto de larga vida con un profundo mensaje para sus observadores. También, los datos obtenidos ayudan a dar soporte la posible idea de que este objeto fue usado por Francisco Pizarro en el proceso de conquista del Perú. Sin embargo, debido a los símbolos presentes en el objeto, fecha y materiales de elaboración, este objeto es claramente único en su tipo, y lo más importante, por su mensaje lingüístico, este no representa a Francisco Pizarro o su armada, al contrario, representa a la Corona de España. Por ende, en vez de denominarse como Estandarte de armas de Francisco Pizarro, este objeto debería nombrarse como el Estandarte Real de la Colonia de Carlos V en el Nuevo Mundo.

Anthraquinones from the Fungus Dermocybe sanguinea as Textile Dyes

This study is based on the multidiciplinary approach of using natural colorants as textile dyes. The author was interested in both the historical and traditional aspects of natural dyeing as well as the modern industrial applications of the pure natural compounds. In the study, the anthraquinone compounds were isolated as aglycones from the ectomycorrhizal fungus Dermocybe sanguinea. The endogenous beta-glucosidase of the fungus was used to catalyse the hydrolysis of the O-glycosyl linkage in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides. The method, in which 10.45 kg of fresh fungi was starting material, yielded two fractions: 56.0 g of Fraction 1 (94% of the total amount of pigment,) consisting almost exclusively of the main pigments emodin and dermocybin, and 3.3 g of Fraction 2 (6%) consisting mainly of the anthraquinone carboxylic acids. The anthraquinone compounds in Fractions 1 and 2 were separated by one- and two-dimensional thin-layer-chromatography (TLC) using silica plates. 1D TLC showed that neither an acidic nor a basic solvent system alone separated completely all the anthraquinones isolated from D. sanguinea, in spite of the variation of the rations of the solvent components in the systems. Thus, a new 2D TLC technique was developed, applying n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. Fifteen different anthraquinone derivatives were completely separated from one another. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new compounds, not earlier identified in D. sanguinea, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of their Rf-values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra. One substance remained unidentified, because of its very low concentration. The anthraquinones in Fractions 1 and 2 were preparatively separeted by liquid-liquid partition, with isopropylmethyl ketone and aqueous phosphate buffer as the solvent system. Advantage was taken of the principle of stepwise pH-gradient elution. The multiple liquid-liquid partition (MLLP) offered an excellent method for the preparative separation of compounds, which contain acidic groups such as the phenolic OH and COOH groups. Due to their strong aggregation properties, these compounds are, without derivatization, very difficult to separate on a preparative scale by chromatographic methods. By the MLLP method remarkable separations were achieved for the components in each mixture. Emodin and dermocybin were both obtained from Fraction 1 in a purity of at least 99%. Pure emodin and dermocybin were applied as mordant dyes to wool and polyamide and as disperse dyes to polyester and polyamide, using the high temperature (HT) technique. A mixture of dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin was applied as an acid dye to wool. In these experiments, synthetic dyes were used as references. Experiments were also performed using water extract of the air-dried fungi as dye liquor for wool and silk. The main colouring compounds in the crude water extract were emodin and dermocybin, which indicated that the O-glycosyl linkages in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides were broken by the beta-glucosidase enzyme. Apparently, the hydrolysis occurred during the drying of the fungi and during the soaking of the dried fruit bodies overnight when preparing the dyebath. The colour of each dyed material was investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a* and b* values, and the colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing was tested according to the ISO standards. In the mordant dyeing experiments, emodin dyed wool and polyamide yellow and red, depending on the pH of the dyebath. Dermocybin gave purple and violet colours. The colour fastness of the mordant-dyed fabrics varied from good to moderate. The fastness properties of the natural anthraquinone carboxylic acids on wool were good, indicating the strength of the ionic bonds between the COO- groups of the dyes and the NH3+ groups of the fibres. In the disperse dyeing experiments, emodin dyed polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics showed excellent colour fastness. In contrast, emodin and dermocybin successfully dyed polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but with only moderate fastness. In industrial dyeing processes, natural anthraquinone aglycone mixtures dyed wool and silk well even at low concentrations of mordants, i.e. with 10% of the weight of the fibre (owf) of KAl(SO4)2 and 1 or 0.5% owf of other mordants. This study showed that purified natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues with good colour-fastness properties in different textile materials. Natural anthraquinones have a significant potential for new dyeing techniques and will provide useful alternatives to synthetic dyes.

The potential of natural, photosynthetic pigments to improve the efficiency of dye-sensitized solar cells

Gemstone Team Grenergy