Shrinking Violets

Description of the work Shrinking Violets is comprised of two half scale garments in laser cut silk organza, developed with a knotting device to allow for disassembly and reassembly. The first is a jacket in layered red organza including black storm flap details. The second is a vest in jade organza with circles of pink organza attached through a pattern of knots. Research Background This practice-led fashion design research sits within the field of Design for Sustainability (DfS) in fashion that seeks to mitigate the environmental and ethical impacts of fashion consumption and production. The research explores new systems of garment construction for DfS, and examines how these systems may involve ‘designing’ new user interactions with the garments. The garments’ construction system allows them to be disassembled and recycled or reassembled by users to form a new garment. Conventional garment design follows a set process of cutting and construction, with pattern pieces permanently machine-stitched together. Garments typically contain multiple fibre types; for example a jacket may be constructed from a shell of wool/polyester, an acetate lining, fusible interlinings, and plastic buttons. These complex inputs mean that textile recycling is highly labour intensive, first to separate the garment pieces and second to sort the multiple fibre types. This difficulty results in poor quality ‘shoddy’ comprised of many fibre types and unsuitable for new apparel, or in large quantities of recyclable textile waste sent to landfill (Hawley 2011). Design-led approaches that consider the garment’s end of life in the design process are a way of addressing this problem. In Gulich’s (2006) analysis, use of single materials is the most effective way to ensure ease of recycling, with multiple materials that can be detached next in effectiveness. Given the low rate of technological innovation in most apparel manufacturing (Ruiz 2011), a challenge for effective recycling is how to develop new manufacturing methods that allow for garments to be more easily disassembled at end-of-life. Research Contribution This project addresses the research question: How can design for disassembly be considered within the fashion design process? I have employed a practice-led methodology in which my design process leads the research, making use of methods of fashion design practice including garment and construction research, fabric and colour research, textile experimentation, drape, patternmaking, and illustration as well as more recent methods such as laser cutting. Interrogating the traditional approaches to garment construction is necessarily a technical process; however fashion design is as much about the aesthetic and desirability of a garment as it is about the garment’s pragmatics or utility. This requires a balance between the technical demands of designing for disassembly with the aesthetic demands of fashion. This led to the selection of luxurious, semi-transparent fabrics in bold floral colours that could be layered to create multiple visual effects, as well as the experimentation with laser cutting for new forms of finishing and fastening the fabrics together. Shrinking Violets makes two contributions to new knowledge in the area of design for sustainability within fashion. The first is in the technical development of apparel modularity through the system of laser cut holes and knots that also become a patterning device. The second contribution lies in the design of a system for users to engage with the garment through its ability to be easily reconstructed into a new form. Research Significance Shrinking Violets was exhibited at the State Library of Queensland’s Asia Pacific Design Library, 1-5 November 2015, as part of The International Association of Societies of Design Research’s (IASDR) biannual design conference. The work was chosen for display by a panel of experts, based on the criteria of design innovation and contribution to new knowledge in design. References Gulich, B. (2006). Designing textile products that are easy to recycle. In Y. Wang (Ed.), Recycling in Textiles (pp. 25-37). London: Woodhead. Hawley, J. M. (2011). Textile recycling options: exploring what could be. In A. Gwilt & T. Rissanen (Eds.), Shaping Sustainable Fashion: Changing the way we make and use clothes (pp. 143 - 155). London: Earthscan. Ruiz, B. (2014). Global Apparel Manufacturing. Retrieved 10 August 2014, from http://clients1.ibisworld.com/reports/gl/industry/default.aspx?entid=470

Orienting to emotion in computer-mediated Cognitive Behavioural Therapy

Exploring emotions is a defining feature of psychotherapy. This study explores how therapists explore emotions when they cannot see or hear their clients. In analysing 1,279 sessions of online text-based Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (CBT) we focused on therapists’ commiserations (e.g., “I’m sorry to hear that”) and their affective inferences (e.g., “that sounds very scary for you”). Both practices routinely prefaced moves to pursue a range of therapeutic activities, many of which did not prioritise sustained focus on the emotion that had just been oriented to. By separating message composition from message transmission, the modality used for these therapy sessions enabled therapists to combine orientations to emotion with attempts to shift the focus of discussion. Our analysis finds that although physically co-present and computer-mediated psychotherapy share a common focus on emotional experience, the modality used for therapy can be relevant in the design and use of these orientations. Data are in British English.

Publishing for the Masses : Early Modern English Witchcraft Pamphlets

This study is a pragmatic description of the evolution of the genre of English witchcraft pamphlets from the mid-sixteenth century to the end of the seventeenth century. Witchcraft pamphlets were produced for a new kind of readership semi-literate, uneducated masses and the central hypothesis of this study is that publishing for the masses entailed rethinking the ways of writing and printing texts. Analysis of the use of typographical variation and illustrations indicates how printers and publishers catered to the tastes and expectations of this new audience. Analysis of the language of witchcraft pamphlets shows how pamphlet writers took into account the new readership by transforming formal written source materials trial proceedings into more immediate ways of writing. The material for this study comes from the Corpus of Early Modern English Witchcraft Pamphlets, which has been compiled by the author. The multidisciplinary analysis incorporates both visual and linguistic aspects of the texts, with methodologies and theoretical insights adopted eclectically from historical pragmatics, genre studies, book history, corpus linguistics, systemic functional linguistics and cognitive psychology. The findings are anchored in the socio-historical context of early modern publishing, reading, literacy and witchcraft beliefs. The study shows not only how consideration of a new audience by both authors and printers influenced the development of a genre, but also the value of combining visual and linguistic features in pragmatic analyses of texts.

A polidez e a preservação de face em trocas de e-mails entre gerentes e sua relação com a cultura organizacional

Dado o crescente uso da Internet e a importância da linguagem do e-mail no ambiente corporativo, o presente trabalho tem como objetivo principal analisar as estratégias de polidez e os mecanismos de preservação de face em trocas de e-mails entre um grupo de gerentes de uma instituição privada de ensino de língua inglesa no Brasil. A pesquisa é um estudo de caso e faz uso de uma abordagem interpretativista, assim como, em partes, também usa dados quantitativos. Para tanto, neste estudo foram integradas à Pragmática outras áreas de pesquisa como a Linguística Sistêmico-Funcional e a Linguística de Corpus. O enfoque nos mecanismos de polidez e proteção de face tem o objetivo de estudar de que forma estes elementos da linguagem utilizada nas trocas de e-mails entre o grupo de gerentes envolvido no estudo estão refletidos na cultura organizacional da instituição. Para tal foram usados os conceitos de Brown e Levinson (1987) para polidez, o de Goffman (1998) para footing e enquadre. Na área de categorização de grupos padronizados de palavras achados frequentemente dentro de um corpus foram usados os parâmetros de Hyland (2008), parâmetros esses que são calcados nas três metafunções de Halliday. Por fim tecem-se comentários sobre as trocas escritas dentro da instituição através de e-mails, buscando entender se essas trocas fazem parte de um gênero estabelecido ou de uma forma de comunicação única e com características próprias. As análises realizadas neste estudo estudam formas de polidez e proteção de face nas saudações e fechos de e-mails do corpus de estudo, a linguagem usada em pedidos de ajuda/informações, na resolução de conflitos e em outras situações do cotidiano dos gerentes da instituição alvo. Os resultados das análises da linguagem usada nas mensagens eletrônicas trocadas pelo grupo sugerem uma relação direta entra a cultura organizacional e os típicos mecanismos característicos de proteção de face e polidez adotados nas mensagens dos gerentes da empresa

A transitividade verbal: uma revisão semântico-pragmática

Esta tese aborda o tema Transitividade Verbal em construções predicativas encontradas em corpus construído com textos jornalísticos impressos do Brasil. Os verbos são estudados segundo ocorrências retiradas de jornais de grande circulação em três capitais. Toma-se a semântica, a pragmática e a sintaxe como determinantes potenciais da transitividade verbal e aborda-se o tema segundo perspectiva histórica, ou seja, procura-se desenhar o percurso do tema nos estudos de língua portuguesa desde a sua primeira gramática, chegando-se, então, a reflexões mais atuais e também ao tratamento dispensado aos verbos e sua construção predicativa em dicionários e em gramáticas pedagógicas. O confronto com estudos acerca da língua espanhola também é motivo de atenção, devido à proximidade que o tema apresenta nas duas línguas. A partir desses estudos, buscou-se elaborar quadro sistemático e mais coerente dos verbos segundo a transitividade e construção predicativa, procurando aliar-se a base teórica consistente, apresentada pela tradição dos estudos gramaticais, às reflexões técnico-científicas acordadas com a realidade lingüística levantada a partir do corpus

A emergência da competência oral como sistema dinâmico, adaptativo e complexo no ensino-aprendizagem de inglês como língua adicional para iniciantes

No âmbito do ensino-aprendizagem de línguas adicionais, pesquisas acerca do desenvolvimento da oralidade têm demonstrado que se trata de um fenômeno multidimensional. Nakatani (2010) mostrou que o domínio de estratégias comunicacionais são indicadores de desempenho linguístico e se relacionam com a proficiência do aprendiz; Kang, Rubin e Pickering (2010) observaram que os traços fonológicos afetam a percepção sobre inteligibilidade e proficiência; Hewitt e Stephenson (2011), e Ahmadian (2012) indicaram que as condições psicológicas individuais interferem na qualidade da produção oral. Escribano (2004) sugeriu que a referência contextual é essencial na construção de sentido; Gao (2011) apontou os benefícios do ensino baseado na construção do sentido, a partir de metáforas conceptuais (LAKOFF e JOHNSON, 1980), codificação dupla (CLARK e PAIVIO, 1991) e esquemas imagéticos (LAKOFF, 1987); e Ellis e Ferreira-Junior (2009) demonstraram que as construções exibem efeitos de recência e priming, afetando o uso da linguagem dos parceiros interacionais. Tais estudos apontam para a natureza complexa da aquisição de L2, mas o fazem dentro do paradigma experimental da psicolinguística. Já Larsen-Freeman (2006), demonstra que a fluência, a precisão e a complexidade desenvolvem-se com o tempo, com alto grau de variabilidade, dentro do paradigma da Teoria da Complexidade. Em viés semelhante, Paiva (2011) observa que os sistemas de Aquisição de Segunda Língua (ASL) são auto-organizáveis. Esses trabalhos, no entanto, não abordaram aprendizes de L2 com proficiência inicial, como pretendo fazer aqui. Tendo como referenciais teóricos a Teoria da Complexidade e a Linguística Cognitiva, o presente trabalho apresenta um estudo de caso, qualitativo-interpretativista, com nuances quantitativos, que discute os processos de adaptação que emergiram na expressão oral de um grupo de aprendizes iniciantes de inglês como língua adicional no contexto vocacional. Parte do entendimento de que na sala de aula vários (sub)sistemas complexos coocorrem, covariando e coadaptando-se em diferentes níveis. A investigação contou com dados transcritos de três avaliações coletados ao longo de 28 horas de aula, no domínio ENTREVISTA DE EMPREGO. Após observar a produção oral das aprendizes, criei uma taxonomia para categorizar as adaptações que ocorreram na sintaxe, semântica, fonologia e pragmática da língua-alvo. Posteriormente organizei as categorias em níveis de prototipicidade (ROSCH et al, 1976) de acordo com as adaptações mais frequentes. Finalmente, avaliei a inteligibilidade de cada elocução, classificando-as em três níveis. A partir desses dados, descrevi como a prática oral dessas participantes emergiu e se desenvolveu ao longo das 28 horas. Os achados comprovam uma das premissas da Linguística Cognitiva ao mostrarem que os níveis de descrição linguística funcionam conjuntamente em prol do sucesso comunicacional. Além disso, demonstram que a função do professor, como discutem LARSEN-FREEMAN e CAMERON (2008), não é gerar uniformidade, mas sim oportunizar vivências que estabeleçam continuidade entre o mundo, o corpo e a mente

Vision, Instruction, and Action

This thesis describes Sonja, a system which uses instructions in the course of visually-guided activity. The thesis explores an integration of research in vision, activity, and natural language pragmatics. Sonja's visual system demonstrates the use of several intermediate visual processes, particularly visual search and routines, previously proposed on psychophysical grounds. The computations Sonja performs are compatible with the constraints imposed by neuroscientifically plausible hardware. Although Sonja can operate autonomously, it can also make flexible use of instructions provided by a human advisor. The system grounds its understanding of these instructions in perception and action.

The Deve­lop­ment of Leibniz’s Con­si­de­ra­tions in John Yench’s Pro­ject

The purpose of the article is to present John Yench’s a priori language as a continuation of Leibniz’s idea. Before I proceed to show the project of the Inter-Disciplinary International Reference Language, I would like to discuss the development of Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz’s view on artificial languages. I will try to show the evolution of Leibniz’s universal language: from its ideal conception to a tool which formalizes the whole of human knowledge. Also, I will show Leibniz’s influence on further ideas of artificial language. I will compare his projects with Yench’s language – Idirl. An analysis of Idirl’s main assumptions will be useful to show the degree of continuation of Leibniz’s ideas in the a priori language of John Yench.

Polski a amerykański dyskurs sądowy: śledcze i skargowe procedury przesłuchiwania świadków w procesach karnych

Wydział Anglistyki

Antyk i współczesność: wokół pragmatyki tekstu antycznego (1Tm 1, 17). Z badań nad tradycją antyczną na Górnym Śląsku

The article presents an interpretation of the Soli Deo honor et gloria inscription from the fronton of the metropolitan cathedral of Christ the King in Katowice. The interpretation of the text depends on whether the word soli is taken as solely attributive or also as predicative. Given both the ancient and the contemporary historical and cultural contexts the former appears more plausible.

VegeDog: Formalism, vegetarian dogs, and partonomies in transition

The pragmatics of 'vegetarian' and 'carnivorous' exhibits an asymmetry that we put in evidence by analyzing a newspaper report about vegetarian dog-owners imposing a vegetarian diet on their pets. More fundamental is the problem of partonomy versus containment, for which we attempt a naive but formal analysis applied to ingestion and the food chain, an issue we derive from the same text analyzed. Our formal tools belong in commonsense modelling, a domain of artificial intelligence related to extra-linguistic knowledge and pragmatics. We first provide an interpretation of events analyzed, and express it graphically in a semantic-network related representation, and propose an alternative that we express in terms of a modal logic, avoiding the full representational power of Hayes's "ontology for liquids".

[Book review] Rosalind W. Picard, Affective Computing

Review of: Rosalind W. Picard, Affective Computing

[Book review] Philip E. Agre and Stanley J. Rosenschein (eds), Computational Theories of Interaction and Agency

Review of: Philip E. Agre and Stanley J. Rosenschein (eds), Computational Theories of Interaction and Agency, MIT Press (1996), ISBN: 978-0262510905

[Book review] Peter Reimann and Hans Spada (eds), Learning in Humans and Machines: Towards an Interdisciplinary Learning Science

Review of: Peter Reimann and Hans Spada (eds), Learning in Humans and Machines: Towards an Interdisciplinary Learning Science, Pergamon. (1995). ISBN: 978-0080425696