The big picture : an integrated approach to fashion design education

This paper examines current teaching practice within the context of the Bachelor of Design (Fashion) programme at AUT University and compares it to the approach adopted in previous years. In recent years, staff on the Bachelor of Design (Fashion) adopted a holistic approach to the assessment of design projects similar to the successful ideas and methods put forward by Stella Lange at the FINZ conference, 2005. Prior to adopting this holistic approach, the teaching culture at AUT University was modular and divorced the development of conceptual design ideas from the technical processes of patternmaking and garment construction, thus limiting the creative potential of integrated project work. Fashion Design is not just about drawing pretty pictures but is rather an entire process that encapsulates conceptual design ideas and technical processes within the context of a target market. Fashion design at AUT being under the umbrella of a wider Bachelor of Design must encourage a more serious view of Fashion and Fashion Design as a whole. In the development of the Bachelor of Design degree at AUT, the university recognised that design education would be best serviced by an inclusive approach. At inception, Core Studio and Core Theory papers formed the first semester of the programme across the discipline areas of Fashion, Spatial Design, Graphic Design and Digital Design. These core papers reinforce the reality that there is a common skill set that transcends all design disciplines with the differentiation between disciplines being determined by the techniques and processes they adopt. Studio based teaching within the scope of a major design project was recognised and introduced some time ago for students in their graduating year, however it was also expected that by year 3 the student had amassed the basic skills required to be able to work in this way. The opinion concerning teaching these basic skills was that they were best serviced by a modular approach. Prior attempts to manage design project delivery leant towards deconstructing the newly formed integrated papers in order to ensure key technical skills were covered in enough depth. So, whilst design projects have played an integral part in the delivery of fashion design over the year levels, the earlier projects were timetabled by discipline and unconvincingly connected. This paper discusses how the holistic approach to assessment must be coupled with an integrated approach to delivery. The methods and processes used are demonstrated and some recently trialled developments are shown to have resulted in achieving the integrated approach in both delivery and assessment.

Tangible programming elements for young children

Tangible programming elements offer the dynamic and programmable properties of a computer without the complexity introduced by the keyboard, mouse and screen. This paper explores the extent to which programming skills are used by children during interactions with a set of tangible programming elements: the Electronic Blocks. An evaluation of the Electronic Blocks indicates that children become heavily engaged with the blocks, and learn simple programming with a minimum of adult support.

Loculus : an ontology-based information management framework for the motion picture industry

"How do you film a punch?" This question can be posed by actors, make-up artists, directors and cameramen. Though they can all ask the same question, they are not all seeking the same answer. Within a given domain, based on the roles they play, agents of the domain have different perspectives and they want the answers to their question from their perspective. In this example, an actor wants to know how to act when filming a scene involving a punch. A make-up artist is interested in how to do the make-up of the actor to show bruises that may result from the punch. Likewise, a director wants to know how to direct such a scene and a cameraman is seeking guidance on how best to film such a scene. This role-based difference in perspective is the underpinning of the Loculus framework for information management for the Motion Picture Industry. The Loculus framework exploits the perspective of agent for information extraction and classification within a given domain. The framework uses the positioning of the agent’s role within the domain ontology and its relatedness to other concepts in the ontology to determine the perspective of the agent. Domain ontology had to be developed for the motion picture industry as the domain lacked one. A rule-based relatedness score was developed to calculate the relative relatedness of concepts with the ontology, which were then used in the Loculus system for information exploitation and classification. The evaluation undertaken to date have yielded promising results and have indicated that exploiting perspective can lead to novel methods of information extraction and classifications.

A material model for flexural crack simulation in reinforced concrete elements using ABAQUS

This paper presents a material model to simulate load induced cracking in Reinforced Concrete (RC) elements in ABAQUS finite element package. Two numerical material models are used and combined to simulate complete stress-strain behaviour of concrete under compression and tension including damage properties. Both numerical techniques used in the present material model are capable of developing the stress-strain curves including strain softening regimes only using ultimate compressive strength of concrete, which is easily and practically obtainable for many of the existing RC structures or those to be built. Therefore, the method proposed in this paper is valuable in assessing existing RC structures in the absence of more detailed test results. The numerical models are slightly modified from the original versions to be comparable with the damaged plasticity model used in ABAQUS. The model is validated using different experiment results for RC beam elements presented in the literature. The results indicate a good agreement with load vs. displacement curve and observed crack patterns.

Development sites in the empty city : from picture book to performance

Picturebooks invite performance every time they are read. What happens to them when they’re adapted for live performance? This ongoing practice led research project (2008-) regenerates and transforms picturebook The Empty City (Hachette/Livre 2007) by David Megarrity and Jonathon Oxlade into a live experience. In this rebuilding, interanimation of text and illustration on the picturebook page suddenly open up into a new and complex structure incorporating composition of music, animation, live action, projected image and performing objects. The presenter is the creator of both the source text and writer/composer of the adaptation, providing a unique vantage point that draws on sources from both within and without the creative process up to and including audience reception. From the foundations up, this paper’s focus is on deep, muddy sites of development in the adaptation process, unearthed treasures, and how perceptions of fear and safety push, sway and stress the building of a new performance work for children in content, form and process.

Minimising capacitive couplings and distributing copper losses in planar magnetic elements

Planar magnetic elements are becoming a replacement for their conventional rivals. Among the reasons supporting their application, is their smaller size. Taking less bulk in the electronic package is a critical advantage from the manufacturing point of view. The planar structure consists of the PCB copper tracks to generate the desired windings .The windings on each PCB layer could be connected in various ways to other winding layers to produce a series or parallel connection. These windings could be applied coreless or with a core depending on the application in Switched Mode Power Supplies (SMPS). Planar shapes of the tracks increase the effective conduction area in the windings, brings about more inductance compared to the conventional windings with the similar copper loss case. The problem arising from the planar structure of magnetic inductors is the leakage current between the layers generated by a pulse width modulated voltage across the inductor. This current value relies on the capacitive coupling between the layers, which in its turn depends on the physical parameters of the planar scheme. In order to reduce this electrical power dissipation due to the leakage current and Electromagnetic Interference (EMI), reconsideration in the planar structure might be effective. The aim of this research is to address problem of these capacitive coupling in planar layers and to find out a better structure for the planar inductance which offers less total capacitive coupling and thus less thermal dissipation from the leakage currents. Through Finite Element methods (FEM) several simulations have been carried out for various planar structures. The labs prototypes of these structures are built with the similar specification of the simulation cases. The capacitive couplings of the samples are determined with Spectrum Analyser whereby the test analysis verified the simulation results.

The symbiosis of improvised and rehearsed elements in the creation of contemporary jazz ensemble music

This research investigates the symbiotic relationship between composition and improvisation and the notion of improvisation itself. With a specific interest in developing, extending and experimenting with the relationship of improvisation within predetermined structures, the creative work component of this research involved composing six new works with varying approaches for The Andrea Keller Quartet and guest improvisers, for performance on a National Australian tour. This is documented in the CD recording Galumphing Round the Nation - Collaborations Tour 2009. The exegesis component is intended to run alongside the creative work and discusses the central issues surrounding improvisation in an ensemble context and the subject of composing for improvisers. Specifically, it questions the notion that when music emphasises a higher ratio of spontaneous to pre-determined elements, and is exposed to the many variables of a performance context, particularly through its incorporation of visitant improvisers, the resultant music should potentially be measurably altered with each performance. This practice-led research demonstrates the effect of concepts such as individuality, variability within context, and the interactive qualities of contemporary jazz ensemble music. Through the analysis and comparison of the treatment of the six pieces over thirteen performances with varying personnel, this exegesis proposes that, despite the expected potential for spontaneity in contemporary jazz music, the presence of established patterns, the desire for familiarity and the intuitive tendency towards accepted protocols ensure that the music which emerges is not as mutable as initially anticipated.

An empirical study of applying ISO 9001 elements in large size Indonesian contractors

The effective implementation of such an ISO 9001 Quality Management System (QMS) in construction companies requires a proper and full implementation of the system to allow companies to improve the way they operate, by this means increasing profitability and market share, producing innovative and sustainable construction products, or improving employee and customer satisfaction. In light of this, this paper discusses the current status of QMS implementation, particularly related to the twenty elements of ISO 9001 within the grade 7 (G-7) category of Indonesian construction companies. A survey was conducted involving 403 respondents from 77 companies, to solicit an evaluation of the current implementation levels of the ISO 9001 elements. The survey findings indicated that for a large percentage of the sector surveyed they had ‘not so fully implemented’ the elements. Scrutiny of the data had also indicated elements that are ‘minimally implemented’, whilst none of the elements fell in the category of ‘fully implemented’. Based on these findings, it is suggested that the G-7 contractors may need to fully commit to practicing control of customer-supplied product and statistical techniques in order to enhance an effective implementation of ISO 9001 elements for ensuring better quality performance. These two elements are recognized as the least implemented of the quality elements.

Quantifying in-plane deformation of plate elements using vibration characteristics

Plate elements are used in many engineering applications. In-plane loads and deformations have significant influence on the vibration characteristics of plate elements. Numerous methods have been developed to quantify the effects of in-plane loads and deformations of individual plate elements with different boundary conditions based on their natural frequencies. However, these developments cannot be applied to the plate elements in a structural system as the natural frequency is a global parameter for the entire structure. This highlights the need for a method to quantify in-plane deformations of plate elements in structural framing systems. Motivated by this gap in knowledge, this research has developed a comprehensive vibration based procedure to quantify in-plane deformation of plate elements in a structural framing system. This procedure with its unique capabilities to capture the influence of load migration, boundary conditions and different tributary areas is presented herein and illustrated through examples.

Elements pour adapter les systemes de recherche d'information aux dyslexiques [Elements to adapt information retrieval systems to dyslexic users]

RÉSUMÉ. La prise en compte des troubles de la communication dans l’utilisation des systèmes de recherche d’information tels qu’on peut en trouver sur le Web est généralement réalisée par des interfaces utilisant des modalités n’impliquant pas la lecture et l’écriture. Peu d’applications existent pour aider l’utilisateur en difficulté dans la modalité textuelle. Nous proposons la prise en compte de la conscience phonologique pour assister l’utilisateur en difficulté d’écriture de requêtes (dysorthographie) ou de lecture de documents (dyslexie). En premier lieu un système de réécriture et d’interprétation des requêtes entrées au clavier par l’utilisateur est proposé : en s’appuyant sur les causes de la dysorthographie et sur les exemples à notre disposition, il est apparu qu’un système combinant une approche éditoriale (type correcteur orthographique) et une approche orale (système de transcription automatique) était plus approprié. En second lieu une méthode d’apprentissage automatique utilise des critères spécifiques , tels que la cohésion grapho-phonémique, pour estimer la lisibilité d’une phrase, puis d’un texte. ABSTRACT. Most applications intend to help disabled users in the information retrieval process by proposing non-textual modalities. This paper introduces specific parameters linked to phonological awareness in the textual modality. This will enhance the ability of systems to deal with orthographic issues and with the adaptation of results to the reader when for example the reader is dyslexic. We propose a phonology based sentence level rewriting system that combines spelling correction, speech synthesis and automatic speech recognition. This has been evaluated on a corpus of questions we get from dyslexic children. We propose a specific sentence readability measure that involves phonetic parameters such as grapho-phonemic cohesion. This has been learned on a corpus of reading time of sentences read by dyslexic children.