Inspiration sources for Australian fast fashion design: Tapping into consumer desire

Purpose The research purpose was to identify both the inspiration sources used by fast fashion designers and ways the designers sort information from the sources during the product development process. Design/methodology/approach This is a qualitative study, drawing on semi-structured interviews conducted with the members of the in-house design teams of three Australian fast fashion companies. Findings Australian fast fashion designers rely on a combination of trend data, sales data, product analysis and travel for design development ideas. The designers then use the consensus and embodiment methods to interpret and synthesise information from those inspiration sources. Research limitations/implications The empirical data used in the analysis were limited by interviewing fashion designers within only three Australian companies. Originality/value This research augments knowledge of fast fashion product development, in particular designers’ methods and approaches to product design within a volatile and competitive market.

Enzymatic cross-linking of β-casein and its impact on digestibility and allergenicity

Protein modification via enzymatic cross-linking is an attractive way for altering food structure so as to create products with increased quality and nutritional value. These modifications are expected to affect not only the structure and physico-chemical properties of proteins but also their physiological characteristics, such as digestibility in the GI-tract and allergenicity. Protein cross-linking enzymes such as transglutaminases are currently commercially available, but also other types of cross-linking enzymes are being explored intensively. In this study, enzymatic cross-linking of β-casein, the most abundant bovine milk protein, was studied. Enzymatic cross-linking reactions were performed by fungal Trichoderma reesei tyrosinase (TrTyr) and the performance of the enzyme was compared to that of transglutaminase from Streptoverticillium mobaraense (Tgase). Enzymatic cross-linking reactions were followed by different analytical techniques, such as size exclusion chromatography -Ultra violet/Visible multi angle light scattering (SEC-UV/Vis-MALLS), phosphorus nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (31P-NMR), atomic force (AFM) and matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionisation-time of flight mass spectrometry (MALDI-TOF MS). The research results showed that in both cases cross-linking of β-casein resulted in the formation of high molecular mass (MM ca. 1 350 kg mol-1), disk-shaped nanoparticles when the highest enzyme dosage and longest incubation times were used. According to SEC-UV/Vis-MALLS data, commercial β-casein was cross-linked almost completely when TrTyr and Tgase were used as cross-linking enzymes. In the case of TrTyr, high degree of cross-linking was confirmed by 31P-NMR where it was shown that 91 % of the tyrosine side-chains were involved in the cross-linking. The impact of enzymatic cross-linking of β-casein on in vitro digestibility by pepsin was followed by various analytical techniques. The research results demonstrated that enzymatically cross-linked β-casein was stable under the acidic conditions present in the stomach. Furthermore, it was found that cross-linked β-casein was more resistant to pepsin digestion when compared to that of non modified β-casein. The effects of enzymatic cross-linking of β-casein on allergenicity were also studied by different biochemical test methods. On the basis of the research results, enzymatic cross-linking decreased allergenicity of native β-casein by 14 % when cross-linked by TrTyr and by 6 % after treatment by Tgase. It can be concluded that in addition to the basic understanding of the reaction mechanism of TrTyr on protein matrix, the research results obtained in this study can have high impact on various applications like food, cosmetic, medical, textile and packing sectors.

Charred seeds in Mikkeli Orijärvi : A study of subsistence strategies of an Iron Age settlement in East Finland

In this study the over 350 macrofossil samples, containing over 2300 charred plant remains from an Iron Age settlement containing fossil fields in Mikkeli Orijärvi Kihlinpelto, were studied archaeobotanically. The aim was to get more information about subsistence strategies, especially agriculture and study differences in the plant combinations in the different structures and use the archaeobotanical theory to interpret these structures. The methodological question was to study the taphonomy of the charred plant material. The results gave a diverse impression of the agriculture and subsistence strategies of the settlement in Orijärvi, where barley was the most important cereal with rye, wheat and oat cultivated as minor crops. The arable weed assemblage indicates that the fields were situated in different kinds of soils and the crops were cultivated when different kind of weather conditions were prevailing. Ergot was found with the cereals, and it was growing on some of the arable crops and it also indicates wet climate. Hemp and flax were cultivated and wild plants were collected. The meadow and wetland plants found in the material derive most probably from animal fodder. Tubers of bulbous oat-grass were interesting, because they are usually found in graves. Comparison with other Iron Age settlements and graves indicates that the plant material found from the ancient field layers derives most probably from dwellings and graves, which were taken into cultivation.

Kestävästi vaihtuva muoti : Kestävän muodin mahdollisuudet ja haasteet vaatesuunnittelijan näkökulmasta

The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.

Näkemyksiä käsityöopetuksen kehitystarpeista yhtenäisessä perusopetuksessa

The objective of this study was to find out what development targets craft teachers could identify in the comprehensive school classes 1 through 9 after the curriculum of the year 2004 had declared craft education uniform in textile and technical craft. Earlier research had shown that after this curricular reform craft education had been carried out in dissimilar ways in different municipalities and schools. This causes differences in the contents of teaching and thus in learning outcomes on national level. The most problematic situations occur on the 7th grade when the classes contain pupils with very heterogeneous skill levels. My intention is to find general themes in craft education that are significant when considering developmental objectives. The problem was explored by four research questions as follows: What kind of problems have craft teachers confronted during the application of the curriculum 2004, what are the most important objectives and contents in craft for the comprehensive school, how craft education should be arranged in the future and what prerequisites should be considered to generate high quality craft education? The study was carried out by a qualitative research approach. The informants consisted of 21 persons, out of which 15 were textile or technical teachers and six were textile or technical teacher students. The research data was collected in the form of short open narratives, based on a partially structured inquiry. Respectively content analysis was applied for analysis of the narratives. Research results revealed that craft teachers were mainly satisfied in uniform craft and hoped that both textile and technical craft could be compulsory school subjects for both genders. Textile and technical craft should be defined as separate independent school subjects, both of which should be developed with broader and high quality contents. Craft subjects should be allocated more teaching time. Teachers asked for a more logically proceeding curriculum, initiating from the beginning to the end of the compulsory school. It was suggested that this could be done by a qualified subject teacher. A uniform curriculum solution must be found for the whole country.

Löydöstä muinaispuvuksi : arkeologisten tekstiilien ennallistaminen

From a find to an ancient costume - reconstruction of archaeological textiles Costume tells who we are. It warms and protects us, but also tells about our identity: gender, age, family, social group, work, religion and ethnicity. Textile fabrication, use and trade have been an important part of human civilization for more than 10 000 years. There are plenty of archaeological textile findings, but they are small, fragmentary and their interpretation requires special skills. Finnish textile findings from the younger Iron Age have already been studied for more than hundred years. They have also been used as a base for several reconstructions called muinaispuku , ancient costume. Thesis surveys the ancient costume reconstruction done in Finland and discusses the objectives of the reconstruction projects. The earlier reconstruction projects are seen as a part of the national project of constructing a glorious past for Finnish nationality, and the part women took in this project. Many earlier reconstructions are designed to be festive costumes for wealthy ladies. In the 1980s and 1990s many new ancient costume reconstructions were made, differing from their predecessors at the pattern of the skirt. They were also done following the principles of making a scientific reconstruction more closely. At the same time historical re-enactment and living history as a hobby have raised in popularity, and the use of ancient costumes is widening from festive occasions to re-enactment purposes. A hypothesis of the textile craft methods used in younger Iron Age Finland is introduced. Archaeological findings from Finland and neighboring countries, ethnological knowledge of textile crafts and experimental archaeology have been used as a basis for this proposition. The yarn was spinned with a spindle, the fabrics woven on a warp-weighted loom and dyed with natural colors. Bronze spiral applications and complicated tablet-woven bands have possibly been done by specialist craftswomen or -men. The knowledge of the techniques and results of experimenting and experimental archaeology gives a possibility to review the success of existing ancient costume reconstructions as scientific reconstructions. Only one costume reconstruction project, the Kaarina costume fabricated in Kurala Kylämäki museum, has been done using as authentic methods as possible. The use of ancient craft methods is time-consuming and expensive. This fact can be seen as one research result itself for it demonstrates how valuable the ancient textiles have been also in their time of use. In the costume reconstruction work, the skill of a craftswoman and her knowledge of ancient working methods is strongly underlined. Textile research is seen as a process, where examination of original textiles and reconstruction experiments discuss with each other. Reconstruction projects can give a lot both to the research of Finnish younger Iron Age and the popularization of archaeological knowledge. The reconstruction is never finished, and also the earlier reconstructions should be reviewed in the light of new findings.

Polyaniline modified electrodes for detection of dyes

Polyaniline (PANI) is one of the most extensively used conjugated polymers in the design of electrochemical sensors. In this study, we report electrochemical dye detection based on PANI for the adsorption of both anionic and cationic dyes from solution. The inherent property of PANI to adsorb dyes has been explored for the development of electrochemical detection of dye in solution. The PANI film was grown on electrode via electrochemical polymerization. The as grown PANI film could easily adsorb the dye in the electrolyte solution and form an insulating layer on the PANI coated electrode. As a result, the current intensity of the PANI film was significantly altered. Furthermore, PANI coated stainless steel (SS) electrodes show a change in the current intensity of Fe2+/Fe3+ redox peaks due to the addition of dye in electrolyte solution. PANI films coated on both Pt electrodes and non-expensive SS electrodes showed the concentration of dye adsorbed is directly proportional to the current intensity or potential shift and thus can be used for the quantitative detection of textile dyes at very low concentrations. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Advanced multifunctional inorganic nanostructured oxides for controlled release and sensing

ADVANCED MULTIFUNCTIONAL INORGANIC NANOSTRUCTURED OXIDES FOR CONTROLLED RELEASE AND SENSING. We demonstrate here certain examples of multifunctional nanostructured oxidematerials for biotechnological and environmental applications.Various in-house synthesized homogeneous nanostructured viz.mesoporous and nanotubes silica and titania have been employed for controlled drug delivery and electrochemical biosensing applications. Confinement of macromolecules such as proteins studied via electrochemical, thermal and spectroscopic methods showed no detrimental effect on native protein structure and function, thus suggesting effective utility of oxide nanostructures as bio-encapsulators. Multi-functionalitywas demonstrated via employing similar nanostructures for sensing organic water pollutants e.g. textile dyes.

Purifying water containing both anionic and cationic species using a (Zn, Cu)O, ZnO, and Cobalt Ferrite based multiphase adsorbent system

For the purpose of water purification, novel and low-cost adsorbents which are promising replacements for activated carbon are being actively pursued. However, a single-phase material that adsorbs both cationic and anionic species remains elusive. Hence, a low-cost, multiphase adsorbent bed that purifies water containing both anionic and cationic pollutants is a desirable alternative. We choose anionic (Congo red, Orange G) and cationic (methylene blue, malachite green) dyes as model pollutants. These dyes are chosen since they are widely found in effluents from textile, leather, fishery, and pharmaceutical industries, and their carcinogenic, mutagenic, genotoxic, and cytotoxic impact on mammalian cells is well-established. We show that ZnO, (Zn0.24Cu0.76)O and cobalt ferrite based multiphase fixed adsorbent bed efficiently adsorbs model anionic (Congo red, Orange G) and cationic (methylene blue and malachite green) pollutants, and their complex mixtures. All adsorbent phases are synthesized using room-temperature, high-yield (similar to 96-100%), green chemical processes. The nanoadsorbents are characterized by using X-ray powder diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Brunauer-Emmett-Teller (BET) surface area analysis, and zeta potential measurements. The constituent nanophases are deliberately chosen to be beyond 50 nm, in order to avoid the nanotoxic size regime of oxides. Adsorption characteristics of each of the phases are examined. Isotherm based analysis shows that adsorption is both spontaneous and highly favorable. zeta potential measurements indicate that electrostatic interactions are the primary driving force for the observed adsorption behavior. The isotherms obtained are best described using a composite Langmuir-Freundlich model. Pseudo-first-order, rapid kinetics is observed (with adsorption rate constants as high as 0.1-0.2 min(-1) in some cases). Film diffusion is shown to be the primary mechanism of adsorption.

Highly Sensitive Carbon Nanotubes Coated Etched Fiber Bragg Grating Sensor for Humidity Sensing

The sensing of relative humidity (RH) at room temperature has potential applications in several areas ranging from biomedical to horticulture, paper, and textile industries. In this paper, a highly sensitive humidity sensor based on carbon nanotubes (CNTs) coated on the surface of an etched fiber Bragg grating (EFBG) sensor has been demonstrated, for detecting RH over a wide range of 20%-90% at room temperature. When water molecules interact with the CNT coated EFBG, the effective refractive index of the fiber core changes, resulting in a shift in the Bragg wavelength. It has been possible to achieve a high sensitivity of similar to 31 pm/% RH, which is the highest compared with many of the existing FBG-based humidity sensors. The limit of detection in the CNT coated EFBG has been found to be similar to 0.03 RH. The experimental data shows a linear response of Bragg wavelength shift with increase in humidity. This novel method of incorporating CNTs on to the FBG sensor for humidity sensing has not been reported before.

Una iniciativa social en la recuperación textil que genera empleo: Berohi S. Coop.

[ES] El incremento del consumo de ropa provoca que año a año aumente el volumen de ropa desechada, y con éste, la conciencia sobre la necesidad de reutilizar dicho recurso. Berohi S. Coop. es una de las empresas dedicadas a la recuperación y reciclaje del textil usado, con origen en Bizkaia. La concepción inicial y desarrollo del proyecto empresarial Berohi S. Coop. constituyen el eje central del caso.