Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Women in the Global Clothing and Textile Industry

This paper examines the current role of women in the clothing and textile industry through oral history of South African union members. I argue that the industry’s particularly exploitative environment is directly related to both gender and globalization, acting together to worsen conditions in factories. Additionally, I argue that the more recent addition of an increasingly consumer-driven industry structure also impacts its abusive environment. Unionization, along with public and private regulation, have the potential to be catalysts for change in the industry. To be most effective, these organizations need to take into account both gender and globalization, and recognize the equal impacts both have when making decisions.

Disruptive Threads and Renegade Yarns: Domestic Textile Making in Selected Women's Writing 1811-1925

Images of domestic textiles (items made at home for consumption within the household) and textile making form an important subtext to women’s writing, both during and after industrialization. Through a close reading of five novels from the period 1811-1925, this thesis will assert that a detailed understanding of textile work and its place in women’s daily lives is critical to a deeper understanding of social, sexual and political issues from a woman’s perspective. The first chapter will explore the history of the relationship between women and domestic textile making, and the changes wrought to the latter by the Industrial Revolution. The second chapter will examine the role of embroidery in the construction of “appropriate” feminine gentility in Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park (1814). The third chapter, on Elizabeth Gaskell’s Cranford (1853), will explore how the older female body became a repository for anxieties about class mobility and female power at the beginning of the Victorian era. The fourth chapter will compare Sara Jeannette Duncan’s A Social Departure (1890) and Kate Chopin’s The Awakening (1899) to consider how later Victorian women both internalized and refuted public narratives of domestic textile making in a quest for “self-ownership.” The last chapter, on Martha Ostenso’s Wild Geese (1925), examines the corrosive, yet ultimately redemptive, relationships of a family of women trapped by abuse and degradation. For all five authors, images of textiles and textile making allow them to speak to issues that were usually only discussed within a community of women: sexuality, desire, aging, marriage, and motherhood. In all five works, textile making “talks back” to the power structures that marginalize women, and lends insight into the material and emotional circumstances of women’s lives.

Characterization of High-Performance Organic Dyes for Dye-Sensitized Solar Cell: A DFT/TDDFT Study

Dye-sensitized solar cell (DSSC) is currently a promising technology that makes solar energy efficient and cost-effective to harness. In DSSC, metal free dyes, such indoline-containing D149 and D205, are proved to be potential alternatives for traditional metal organic dyes. In this work, a DFT/TDDFT characterization for D149 and D205 were carried out using different functionals, including B3LYP, MPW1K, CAM-B3LYP and PBE0. Three different conformers for D149 and four different conformers for D205 were identified and calculated in vacuum. The performance of different functionals on calculating the maximum absorbance of the dyes in vacuum and five common solvents (acetonitrile, chloroform, ethanol, methanol, and THF) were examined and compared to determine the suitable computational setting for predicting properties of these two dyes. Furthermore, deprotonated D149 and D205 in solvents were also considered, and the highest occupied molecular orbital (HOMO) and lowest unoccupied molecular orbital (LUMO) were calculated, which elucidates the substitution effect on the rhodanine ring of D149 and D205 dyes on their efficiency. Finally, D149 and D205 molecules were confirmed to be firmly anchored on ZnO surface by periodic DFT calculations. These results would shed light on the design of new highly efficiency metal-free dyes.

Endverbindungen für dynamisch belastete textile Zugmittel

Hochfeste Faserseile sind aufgrund ihrer hohen spezifischen Festigkeit prädestiniert für dynamische Anwendungen in der Fördertechnik. Der Kenntnisstand über die Zeitfestigkeit zugehöriger Endverbindungen zur Krafteinleitung ist jedoch unzureichend. Gegenstand der vorgelegten Arbeit ist die Entwicklung einer für die Anwendung von hochfesten Faserseilen geeigneten Prüfvorschrift sowie die vergleichende Untersuchung bekannter Endverbindungen für hochfeste Faserseile im Zugschwellversuch.

Exploring Perceptual Matters: A Textile-Based Approach

This research takes a practice-based approach to exploring perceptual matters that often go unnoticed in the context of everyday lived experience. My approach focuses on the experiential possibilities of knowledge emerging through artistic enquiry, and uses a variety of modes (like textiles, sound, physical computing, programming, video and text) to be conducted and communicated. It examines scholarship in line with the ecological theory of perception, and is particularly informed by neurobiological research on sensory integration as well as by cultural theories that examine the role of sensory appreciation in perception. Different processes contributing to our perceptual experience are examined through the development of a touch-sensitive, sound-generating rug and its application in an experimental context. Participants’ interaction with the rug and its sonic output allows an insight into how they make sense of multisensory information via observation of how they physically respond to it. In creating possibilities for observing the two ends of the perceptual process (sensory input and behavioural output), the rug provides a platform for the study of what is intangible to the observer (perceptual activity) through what can actually be observed (physical activity). My analysis focuses on video recordings of the experimental process and data reports obtained from the software used for the sound generating performance of the rug. Its findings suggest that attentional focus, active exploration, and past experience actively affect the ability to integrate multisensory information and are crucial parameters for the formation of a meaningful percept upon which to act. Although relational to the set experimental conditions and the specificities of the experimental group, these findings are in resonance with current cross-disciplinary discourse on perception, and indicate that art research can be incorporated into the wider arena of neurophysiological and behavioural research to expand its span of resources and methods.

Chitosan scaffold as an alternative adsorbent for the removal of hazardous food dyes from aqueous solutions

Hypothesis: The dye adsorption with chitosan is considered an eco-friendly alternative technology in relation to the existing water treatment technologies. However, the application of chitosan for dyes removal is limited, due to its low surface area and porosity. Then we prepared a chitosan scaffold with a megaporous structure as an alternative adsorbent to remove food dyes from solutions. Experiments: The chitosan scaffold was characterized by infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and structural characteristics. The potential of chitosan scaffold to remove five food dyes from solutions was investigated by equilibrium isotherms and thermodynamic study. The scaffold–dyes interactions were elucidated, and desorption studies were carried out. Findings: The chitosan scaffold presented pore sizes from 50 to 200 lm, porosity of 92.2 ± 1.2% and specific surface area of 1135 ± 2 m2 g 1. The two-step Langmuir model was suitable to represent the equilibrium data. The adsorption was spontaneous, favorable, exothermic and enthalpy-controlled process. Electrostatic interactions occurred between chitosan scaffold and dyes. Desorption was possible with NaOH solution (0.10 mol L 1). The chitosan megaporous scaffold showed good structural characteristics and high adsorption capacities (788–3316 mg g 1).

Use of Spirulina platensis micro and nanoparticles for the removal synthetic dyes from aqueous solutions by biosorption

In this research, micro and nanoparticles of Spirulina platensis dead biomass were obtained, characterized and employed to removal FD&C red no. 40 and acid blue 9 synthetic dyes from aqueous solutions. The effects of particle size (micro and nano) and biosorbent dosage (from 50 to 750 mg) were studied. Pseudofirst order, pseudo-second order and Elovich models were used to evaluate the biosorption kinetics. The biosorption nature was verified using energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (EDS). The best results for both dyes were found using 250 mg of nanoparticles, in these conditions, the biosorption capacities were 295 mg g−1 and 1450 mg g−1, and the percentages of dye removal were 15.0 and 72.5% for the FD&C red no. 40 and acid blue 9, respectively. Pseudo-first order model was the more adequate to represent the biosorption of both dyes onto microparticles, and Elovich model was more appropriate to the biosorption onto nanoparticles. The EDS results suggested that the dyes biosorption onto microparticles occurred mainly by physical interactions, and for the nanoparticles, chemisorption was dominant.

Adsorption of food dyes onto chitosan: Optimization process and kinetic

Adsorption of food dyes acid blue 9 and food yellow 3 onto chitosan was optimized. Chitosan was obtained from shrimp wastes and characterized.Afull factorial design was used to analyze the effects of pH, stirring rate and contact time in adsorption capacity. In the optimal conditions, adsorption kinetics was studied and the experimental data were fitted with three kinetic models. The produced chitosan showed good characteristics for dye adsorption. The optimal conditions were: pH 3, 150rpm and 60 min for acid blue 9 and pH 3, 50rpm and 60 min for food yellow 3. In these conditions, the adsorption capacities values were 210mgg−1 and 295mgg−1 for acid blue 9 and food yellow 3, respectively. The Elovich kinetic model was the best fit for experimental data and it showed the chemical nature of dyes adsorption onto chitosan.

Thermochromic dyes and sunlight activating systems - An alternative means to induce colour change.

The general purpose of this work is to investigate the potential of a mobile phone to capture soil colour images and process them, returning the corresponding Munsell colour coordi- nates from the digital RGB captured images, and also estimate the tristimulus values from the same images. A mobile phone HTC Desire HD, which runs Android 2.2, has been used to take and process images of a Munsell Soil Colour Chart under fixed illumination conditions. To obtain tristimulus values of each sample a Konica Minolta CS2000d spectroradiometer has been used under the same conditions. Penrose’s pseudoinverse method has been used to compute relationship between RGB coordinates from digital images and tristimulus values. Once the model has been computed it was implemented in the mobile phone. Results of this calibration show that more than 90% of the samples used in the calibration (238 chips) were measured by our mobile phone application with accuracy below 2.03 CIELAB units and a mean correlation coefficient equal to 0.9972. In case of Munsell models mean correlation coefficient is equal to 0.9407. This points to the idea that a conventional mobile device can be used to determine the colour of a soil under controlled illumination conditions.

Investigation of adsorption of dyes onto modified titanium dioxide

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles with different sizes and crystalloid structures produced by the thermal method and doped with silver iodide (AgI), nitrogen (N), sulphur (S) and carbon (C) were applied as adsorbents. The adsorption of Methyl Violet (MV), Methylene Blue (MB), Methyl Orange (MO) and Orange II on the surface of these particles was studied. The photocatalytic activity of some particles for the destruction of MV and Orange II was evaluated under sunlight and visible light. The equilibrium adsorption data were fitted to the Langmuir, Freundlich, Langmuir-Freundlich and Temkin isotherms. The equilibrium data show that TiO2 particles with larger sizes and doped with AgI, N, S and C have the highest adsorption capacity for the dyes. The kinetic data followed the pseudo-first order and pseudo-second order models, while desorption data fitted the zero order, first order and second order models. The highest adsorption rate constant was observed for the TiO2 with the highest anatase phase percentage. Factors such as anatase crystalloid structure, particle size and doping with AgI affect the photocatalytic activity significantly. Increasing the rutile phase percentage also decreases the tendency to desorption for N-TiO2 and S-TiO2. Adsorption was not found to be important in the photocatalytic decomposition of MV in an investigation with differently sized AgI-TiO2 nanoparticles. Nevertheless C-TiO2 was found to have higher adsorption activity onto Orange II, as the adsorption role of carbon approached synchronicity with the oxidation role.