How do Chinese fashion designers become global fashion leaders? A new perspective on legitimisation in China’s fashion system

The term fashion system describes inter-relationships between production and consumption, illustrating how the production of fashion is a collective activity. For instance, Yuniya Kawamura (2011) notes systems for the production of fashion differ around the globe and are subject to constant change, and Jennifer Craik (1994, 6) draws attention to an ‘array of competing and intermeshing systems cutting across western and non-western cultures. In China, Shanghai’s nascent fashion system seeks to emulate the Eurocentric system of Fashion Weeks and industry support groups. It promises designers a platform for global competition, yet there are tensions from within. Interaction with a fashion system inevitably means becoming validated or legitimised. Legitimisation in turn depends upon gatekeepers who make aesthetic judgments about the status, quality, and cultural value of a designers work (Becker 2008). My paper offers a new perspective on legitimisation that is drawn mainly from my PhD research. I argue that some Chinese fashion designers are on the path to becoming global fashion designers because they have embraced a global aesthetic that resonates with the human condition, rather than the manufactured authenticity of a Eurocentric fashion system that perpetuates endless consumption. In this way, they are able to ‘self-legitimise’. I contend these designers are ‘designers for humans’, because they are able to look beyond the mythology of fashion brands, and the Eurocentric fashion system, where they explore the tensions of man and culture in their practice. Furthermore, their design ethos pursues beauty, truth and harmony in the Chinese philosophical sense, as well as incorporating financial return in a process that is still enacted through a fashion system. Accordingly, cultural tradition, heritage and modernity, while still valuable, have less impact on their practice.

Mapping journalism cultures across nations : a comparative study of 18 countries

This article reports key findings from a comparative survey of the role perceptions, epistemological orientations and ethical views of 1800 journalists from 18 countries. The results show that detachment, non-involvement, providing political information and monitoring the government are considered essential journalistic functions around the globe. Impartiality, the reliability and factualness of information, as well as adherence to universal ethical principles are also valued worldwide, though their perceived importance varies across countries. Various aspects of interventionism, objectivism and the importance of separating facts from opinion, on the other hand, seem to play out differently around the globe. Western journalists are generally less supportive of any active promotion of particular values, ideas and social change, and they adhere more to universal principles in their ethical decisions. Journalists from non-western contexts, on the other hand, tend to be more interventionist in their role perceptions and more flexible in their ethical views.

Child-feeding practices of Indian and Australian-Indian mothers

Aims Child-feeding practices may be modifiable risk factors for childhood obesity; however investigation of feeding practices in non-Western populations is scarce. This cross-sectional study examines feeding practices of affluent Indian mothers with children aged 1-5 years residing in Australia and Mumbai, India. The secondary aim was to study the association between maternal and child characteristics and feeding practices. Methods In Australia 230 and in Mumbai 301 mothers completed either a hardcopy or online questionnaire. Self-reported maternal feeding practices (restriction, monitoring, pressure to eat, passive and responsive feeding) were measured using established scales and culturally-specific items. Results Mothers in both samples were equally likely to use non-responsive feeding practices, namely dietary restriction, pressure and passive feeding. Similarly, at least 50% of mothers in both samples did not feed their child responsively (mother decides what and the child decides how much to eat). The only difference observed after controlling for covariates (mothers’ age, BMI, religion, education, questionnaire type, child’s age, birth place, gender, number of siblings, and weight-for-age (WAZ) scores) was that mothers in the Australian sample used higher levels of dietary monitoring (β= 0.2, P= 0.006). Mothers with a higher BMI (OR: 0.84, CI: 0.89-0.99, p=0.03) and following Hinduism (OR: 0.50, CI: 0.33-0.83, p=0.008) were less likely to feed responsively. Conclusions These results suggest that Indian mothers in both the samples may benefit from interventions that promote responsive child-feeding practices.

The BRICS and R2P : contestation, re-interpretation and norm entrepreneurship

The intra-state humanitarian crises in Libya and Syria have led to renewed debate over the content and implementation of pillar three of the responsibility to protect (R2P). This paper examines the BRICS’ (Brazil, Russia, India, China, South Africa) current perspectives on R2P and their recent efforts to shape the concept’s evolution. While Brazil’s “Responsibility while Protecting” (RwP) proposal has been widely discussed, the central focus here is on the lesser-known, semi-official Chinese idea of “Responsible Protection” (RP). Like RwP, RP proposes decision-making criteria and accountability mechanisms for UN-authorised military intervention under R2P’s third pillar. This paper argues that although RP draws heavily on previous R2P proposals such as the original 2001 ICISS report and Brazil’s RwP, by amalgamating and re-packaging these earlier ideas in a more restrictive form the Chinese initiative represents a new and distinctive interpretation of R2P. However, as it currently stands, some aspects of RP appear to be framed too strictly to provide workable guidelines for determining the permissibility of R2P military intervention, and would, therefore, benefit from clarification and refinement. Of broader significance, China’s RP and Brazil’s RwP initiatives point to the growing willingness of rising, non-Western powers to articulate and promote their own normative preferences on sovereignty, intervention and global governance. This development has potential implications both for R2P’s evolution and for the structure of the international system.

China's "Responsible Protection" concept : re-interpreting the Responsibility to Protect (R2P) and military intervention for humanitarian purposes

This article assesses the extent to which the recently formulated Chinese concept of “Responsible Protection” (RP) offers a valuable contribution to the normative debate over R2P’s third pillar following the controversy over military intervention in Libya. While RP draws heavily on previous proposals such as the original 2001 ICISS report and Brazil’s “Responsibility while Protecting” (RwP), by amalgamating and re-packaging these earlier ideas in a more restrictive form the initiative represents a new and distinctive interpretation of R2P. However, some aspects of RP are framed too narrowly to provide workable guidelines for determining the permissibility of military intervention for civilian protection purposes, and should therefore be clarified and refined. Nevertheless, the Chinese proposal remains significant because it offers important insights into Beijing’s current stance on R2P. More broadly, China’s RP and Brazil’s RwP initiatives illustrate the growing willingness of rising, non-Western powers to assert their own normative preferences on sovereignty, intervention and global governance.

Work and family : the perception of balance among female teachers in northern Malaysia

Women’s participation in paid employment has become a common scenario even in non-western developing countries. For example in Malaysia, the trend is growing although the traditional gender role remains strong in Malaysian society. Even though working, women are still expected to assume major responsibilities at home. Thus, as opposed to men, women in this society face the challenge to satisfactorily balance work and family. This study was carried out to explore how Malaysian women perceive the meaning of a balanced work-family life. Sampling women teachers, the interview findings revealed that work-family balance was mainly perceived in terms of an individual’s ‘ability to fulfill role obligation’ appropriately in both the work and family domains. A few participants also viewed balance in the context of role satisfaction and role interference. Overall, the results support the assumption in the literature that perceptions of work-family experience are not universal, rather, the construct of work-family balance is culture-specific.

The political in the age of the digital: propositions for empirical investigation

This article establishes whether there is a case for revising traditional accounts of politics and the public sphere given the ways in which digital technology is now being used in Western and non-Western settings to engage people politically. The article presents a case for framing this inquiry in terms of imaginaries. It then argues for a new political imaginary which helps to specify what is required for deliberative democratic practice in a way that shifts us away from the dominant liberal-utilitarian political imaginary that currently informs the political value systems of most Western nations. Drawing on the work of key political theorists such as Habermas and Dahlgren, five propositions or conditions for deliberative practice are identified that can be used in empirical investigation to help determine the democratic capacity and potential of new political communication and civic spaces being opened by means of digital media.

Mandatory Reporting Laws and the Identification of Severe Child Abuse and Neglect

This book provides the first comprehensive international coverage of key issues in mandatory reporting of child abuse and neglect. The book draws on a collection of the foremost scholars in the field, as well as clinicians and practice-based experts, to explore the nature, history, impact and justifiability of mandatory reporting laws, their optimal form, legal and conceptual issues, and practical issues and challenges for reporters, professional educators and governments. Key issues in non-Western nations are also explored briefly to assess the potential of socio-legal responses sex trafficking, forced child labour and child marriage. The book is of particular value to policy makers, educators and opinion leaders in government departments dealing with children, and to professionals and organisations who work with children. It is also intended to be a key authority for researchers and teachers in the fields of medicine, nursing, social work, education, law, psychology, health and allied health fields.

Phytochemicals of papaya and its traditional health and culinary uses – A review

This paper reviews the current research on phytochemical composition and non-Western traditional culinary food preparation and health uses of papaya. Only ripe papaya fruit flesh is normally eaten in Western countries. The orange or red flesh is an excellent source of pro-vitamin A and ascorbic acid. In South-East Asia, both ripe and green fruit are used and additionally leaves are popularly consumed either raw in salad or cooked as a green vegetable. The leaves contain alkaloids as well as quercetin and kaempferol as the main phenolic compounds. In contrast to Western use papaya has a reputation as a medicinal plant in tropical countries where it is grown. Different plant parts such as fruit, leaf, seed, root, bark and flowers have been used as health treatments. These have included use as topical dressings for treating ulcers and dermatitis, gastrointestinal uses such as antihelminthic and antibacterial activity treatments and traditional uses for fertility control. The differences in use for food and health illustrate potential applications and nutritional benefits of the plant which require further research. With better verification the health applications of papaya could be more widely adopted into Western culture.

The Systems Theory Framework of career development: 20 years of contribution to theory and practice

The development and sustained contribution of the Systems Theory Framework to career development theory and practice is well documented in national and international literatures. In addition to its contribution to theory integration, it has added to the growing literature on connecting career theory and practice, in particular for non-Western populations. In addition, it has been the basis of the development of a broad array of constructivist approaches to career counselling, and indeed specific reflective career assessment activities. This article begins with a brief history of the Systems Theory Framework which is then followed by a rationale for its development. The contribution of the Systems Theory Framework to theory and practice is then described prior to concluding comments by the authors.

Measuring the expressed emotion in Chinese family caregivers of persons with dementia: Validation of a Chinese version of the Family Attitude Scale

- Background Expressed emotion (EE) captures the affective quality of the relationship between family caregivers and their care recipients and is known to increase the risk of poor health outcomes for caregiving dyads. Little is known about expressed emotion in the context of caregiving for persons with dementia, especially in non-Western cultures. The Family Attitude Scale (FAS) is a psychometrically sound self-reporting measure for EE. Its use in the examination of caregiving for patients with dementia has not yet been explored. - Objectives This study was performed to examine the psychometric properties of the Chinese version of the FAS (FAS-C) in Chinese caregivers of relatives with dementia, and its validity in predicting severe depressive symptoms among the caregivers. - Methods The FAS was translated into Chinese using Brislin's model. Two expert panels evaluated the semantic equivalence and content validity of this Chinese version (FAS-C), respectively. A total of 123 Chinese primary caregivers of relatives with dementia were recruited from three elderly community care centers in Hong Kong. The FAS-C was administered with the Chinese versions of the 5-item Mental Health Inventory (MHI-5), the Zarit Burden Interview (ZBI) and the Revised Memory and Behavioral Problem Checklist (RMBPC). - Results The FAS-C had excellent semantic equivalence with the original version and a content validity index of 0.92. Exploratory factor analysis identified a three-factor structure for the FAS-C (hostile acts, criticism and distancing). Cronbach's alpha of the FAS-C was 0.92. Pearson's correlation indicated that there were significant associations between a higher score on the FAS-C and greater caregiver burden (r = 0.66, p < 0.001), poorer mental health of the caregivers (r = −0.65, p < 0.001) and a higher level of dementia-related symptoms (frequency of symptoms: r = 0.45, p < 0.001; symptom disturbance: r = 0.51, p < 0.001), which serves to suggest its construct validity. For detecting severe depressive symptoms of the family caregivers, the receiving operating characteristics (ROC) curve had an area under curve of 0.78 (95% confidence interval (CI) = 0.69–0.87, p < 0.0001). The optimal cut-off score was >47 with a sensitivity of 0.720 (95% CI = 0.506–0.879) and specificity of 0.742 (95% CI = 0.643–0.826). - Conclusions The FAS-C is a reliable and valid measure to assess the affective quality of the relationship between Chinese caregivers and their relatives with dementia. It also has acceptable predictability in identifying family caregivers with severe depressive symptoms.

Elucidating the neuropsychological profile of apathetic syndrome and disinhibition syndrome in a brain-injured population in Oman

The purpose of this study was to compare the neuropsychological performance of two frontal dysexecutive phenotypes - disinhibited&' syndrome (DS) and &'apathetic&' syndrome (AS) following a traumatic brain injury in a non-western population, Oman. Methods: The study compared the performance of DS and AS in neuropsychological measures including those tapping into verbal reasoning ability/working memory/attention planning/goal-directed behavior and affective ranges. Results: The present analysis showed that DS and AS participants did not differ on indices measuring working memory/attention and affective ranges. However, the two cohorts differed significantly in measures of planning/goal-directed behaviour. Conclusion: This study lays the groundwork for further scrutiny in delineating the different characteristics of what has been previously labelled as frontal dysexecutive phenotype. This study indicates that DS and AS are marked with specific neuropsychological deficits.

Uma perspectiva multinível e plural em psiquiatria: a esquizofrenia como exemplar

Assim como a medicina, a psiquiatria não consiste em uma disciplina teórica, mas sim, em uma práxis, um projeto teórico que somente se justifica pelo projeto prático. Trata-se, portanto, de um campo de intervenção. A psiquiatria utiliza diversas abordagens teóricas e científicas com uma finalidade prática. O objeto de estudo do campo, entretanto, não se confunde com o objeto destas abordagens. O objeto da psiquiatria pode ser definido em vertentes reducionistas e não-reducionistas. No contexto atual, há uma tendência a uma polarização. Por um lado, o objeto da psiquiatria é concebido como o objeto das demais especialidades médicas, enquanto doença mental, localizado no cérebro e resultando em práticas que privilegiam as abordagens biológicas. Por outro, em vertentes mais amplas de definição, ele consiste no sofrimento psíquico e social ou em disfunções internas socialmente inapropriadas, o que envolve múltiplos níveis e dimensões biológico, fenomenológico, cultural. Esta concepção do objeto da psiquiatria demanda uma multiplicidade e pluralidade de abordagens tanto no plano teórico quanto no plano prático. A presente tese afirma que uma perspectiva multinível e plural é imperiosa à práxis psiquiátrica. A tese está dividida em duas partes. Na primeira, realiza-se uma discussão filosófica na psiquiatria, mediante o método da investigação conceitual, visando um refinamento teórico do campo, que tende a gerar práticas mais efetivas. Três problemas filosóficos que perpassam a psiquiatria são discutidos: a distinção explicação-compreensão; o problema mente-cérebro e a distinção fato-valor. Aponta-se uma solução pragmatista para cada um destes problemas. Na segunda parte, realiza-se um estudo de caso com o exemplar esquizofrenia, analisando os múltiplos níveis do fenômeno mediante a apresentação das abordagens biológicas, fenomenológicas e antropológicas da esquizofrenia na contemporaneidade, enfocando, respectivamente, as hipóteses neurodesenvolvimentais, as alterações na consciência pré-reflexiva de si e as concepções do fenômeno em contextos não-ocidentais. A esquizofrenia corresponde a uma categoria de alta validade, tendo uma importante participação de fatores genético-biológicos. Ainda assim, o modelo biomédico se mostra insuficiente para dar conta da complexidade da experiência do adoecimento nesta condição. Portanto, uma perspectiva multinível e plural se faz mandatória. E se esta perspectiva se aplica à esquizofrenia, aplicar-se-á também a todos os transtornos mentais, com importantes implicações para a práxis psiquiátrica, seja no âmbito da teoria e pesquisa, seja no âmbito da clínica e da elaboração de políticas públicas de saúde mental, ajustando-se melhor, por exemplo, aos propósitos do Global Mental Health.

社会发展与中国人人格变迁——控制测验理论与工具的变异后不同时期的中国人人格差异研究

In non-western society，researches on social development and personality change focused on economic development and social modernization. The present study is aimed at exploring the relationship between the social transformation and personality changes of Chinese people by using so-called indigenous personality measurement of CPAI (Chinese Personality Assessment Inventory). Meanwhile, the influence of CPAI measurement itself and measurement theory were also taken into consideration. In study 1, two sets of CPAI data collected in a 10 year interval were analyzed. At the same time, the CPAI-2 data was analyzed in terms of modernization level of various cities from which the data were collected. However, this study didn’t consider the importance of “equivalence” of the measurement, CPAI. In study 2, we detected DIF (Differential item functioning) across the different period groups to confirm if CPAI was equal to people in different period. In this process, both CTT and IRT method were used. The outcome reminded us that there were some DIF items. In study 3, to make sure that the personality measurement is fair to people in different period, we only saved those items whose DIF effect size lower than 0.01, and used IRT method to estimate test-taker’s personality. Then, cohort analysis was used to explore the pattern of personality change of Chinese people. In study 4, we factor-analyzed the DIF items to find the relation between social transformation and the latent personality variable which were composed of DIF items. From these 4 studies, we could got the following conclusions: (1) The CPAI 22 traits could be divided into two categories, with the changing of age, period and cohort, type I traits didn’t change, they were Logical vs Affective Orientation, Enterprise, Responsibility, Inferiority vs Self-Acceptance, Optimism vs Pessimism, Face, Family, Defensive, Graciousness vs Meanness; While with the changing of age, period and cohort, type II traits changed, they were Leadership, Self vs. Social Orientation, Veraciousness vs Slickness, Traditionalism vs Modernity, Harmony, Renqing, Meticulousness, Extraversion vs Introversion, Emotionality, Practical Mindedness, Internal vs External Locus of Control, Thrift vs Extravagance, Discipline. Meanwhile DIF items measured 5 psychologycial characteristics which changed greatly with the changing of age, period and cohort, they were Life attitude of Cynicism-realism, Psychological maladjustment, Coping style of Waiyuanneifang, Self-efficacy, the value of Individualism. (2) In sum, Chinese people in 1992 were more traditional than those in 2001, and with the 10-year of rapid development, according to the market economy’s needs, Chinese people became more individualism. (3) The DIF method of CTT and IRT were comparable. But, in generally, IRT method was more accurate and valid in detecting DIF as were as estimating personality. (4) The DIF outcomes showed that CPAI had good item validity. Meanwhile, it’s possible to develop a subscale by using CPAI items to assess some psychological characteristics. In this current study, according to their stability and variability, we could divided personality traits and psychological characteristics into 3 categories, and the outcome supported the hypothesis of “Six Factor Model”, these foundings were of some theoretic meanings. Meanwhile, as the relation between social development and personality change being explored, it certain help Chinese people cope with the rapid changing society. In this study, we also found that it’s possible to develop a subscale by using CPAI items to assess obverse personality traits and it had some practical use. Furthermore, the use of different measurement theory and cohort analysis embodied some innovation in methodology.

Psychosocial well-being of African migrant children in Ireland: a cultural orientation

This thesis explores the psychosocial wellbeing of sub-Saharan African migrant children in Ireland. A sociocultural ecological (Psychosocial Working Group, 2003) and resilience lens (Masten & Obradovic, 2008; Ungar, 2011) is used to analyse the experiences of African migrant children in Ireland. The research strategy employs a mixed-methods design, combining both an etic and emic perspective. Grounded theory inquiry (Strauss and Corbin, 1994) explores the experiences of African migrant children in Ireland by drawing on multi-sited observations over a period of six months in 2009, and on interviews and focus group discussions conducted with African children (aged 13-18), mothers and fathers. An emically derived ‘African Migrant Child Psychosocial Well-being’ scale was developed by drawing on data gathered through rapid ethnographic (RAE) free listing exercises carried out in Cork, Dublin and Dundalk with sixty-one participants (N=21 adults, N=28 15-18-year-olds, N=12 12-14-year-olds) and three African community key informants to elicit local understandings of psychosocial well-being. This newly developed scale was used alongside standardised measures of well-being to quantitatively measure the psychosocial adjustment of 233 African migrant children in Cork, Dublin and Dundalk aged 11-18. Findings indicate that the psychosocial wellbeing of the study population is satisfactory when benchmarked against the psychosocial health profile of Irish youth (Dooley & Fitzgerald, 2012). These findings are similar to trends reported in international literature in this field (Georgiades et al., 2006; Gonneke, Stevens, Vollebergh, 2008; Sampson et al., 2005). Study findings have implications for advancing psychosocial research methods with non-Western populations and on informing the practice of Irish professionals, mainly in the areas of teaching, psychology and community work.