929 resultados para COSMETIC INGREDIENTS


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Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Engenharia Química e Bioquímica

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A therapeutic deep eutectic system (THEDES) is here defined as a deep eutectic solvent (DES) having an active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) as one of the components. In this work, THEDESs are proposed as enhanced transporters and delivery vehicles for bioactive molecules. THEDESs based on choline chloride (ChCl) or menthol conjugated with three different APIs, namely acetylsalicylic acid (AA), benzoic acid (BA) and phenylacetic acid (PA), were synthesized and characterized for thermal behaviour, structural features, dissolution rate and antibacterial activity. Differential scanning calorimetry and polarized optical microscopy showed that ChCl:PA (1:1), ChCl:AA (1:1), menthol:AA (3:1), menthol:BA (3:1), menthol:PA (2:1) and menthol:PA (3:1) were liquid at room temperature. Dissolution studies in PBS led to increased dissolution rates for the APIs when in the form of THEDES, compared to the API alone. The increase in dissolution rate was particularly noticeable for menthol-based THEDES. Antibacterial activity was assessed using both Gram-positive and Gram-negative model organisms. The results show that all the THEDESs retain the antibacterial activity of the API. Overall, our results highlight the great potential of THEDES as dissolution enhancers in the development of novel and more effective drug delivery systems.

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Durant les darreres dècades, i degut, principalment, a un canvi en els hàbits alimentaris, hi ha hagut un augment a nivell mundial de malalties cròniques (l’obesitat, malalties cardiovasculars, etc.). En els països mediterranis hi ha menys incidència d’aquestes malalties i sembla ser que això es deu a l’anomenada dieta mediterrània. La dieta mediterrània es caracteritza per una combinació d’oli d’oliva com a grassa principal, verdures, hortalisses i fruites en abundància, lleguminoses, fruits secs, formatges i iogurt, peix, pa, pasta, cereals i els seus derivats i un consum moderat de vi i carns. Aquest model alimentari, ric en tocoferols, fitosterols i fitoestanols que ajuden a reduir el contingut de colesterol en sang, fa que en les poblacions mediterrànies hi hagi menys incidència de malalties cardiovasculars. Aquests compostos inhibeixen el deteriorament oxidatiu dels olis, actuen com agent antipolimerització per olis de fregir. Tenen capacitat de reduir els nivells de colesterol, evitant la incidència de malalties cardiovasculars. Els fitoesterols y fitoestanols es poden trobar en forma lliure o esterificada amb àcids grassos, àcids fenòlics i glucosa. Els objectius d’ aquest treball han estat, primer en el desenvolupament de mètodes d'anàlisi ràpids, fiables i robusts dels tocoferols, fitoesterols i fitoestanols i la seva aplicació en fruits sec, oli de segó, oli de pinyol de raïm i productes que els continguin. El primer mètode va estar basat en la cromatografía líquida (HPLC-DAD) amb extracció en fase sòlida (SPE) com tècnica alternativa a la saponificació para la determinació de fitoesterols lliures. Aquest mètode va estar aplicada a mostres de bombons que contenia fitoesterols. El segon mètode va estar basat en la cromatografia de gasos (GCFID) amb aponificació i SPE per quantificar fitoesterols i fitoestanols lliures, esterificats i totals. En els documents annexos es descriuen a profunditat els mètodes desenvolupats.

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In a case of a driving ability assessment, hair analysis for ethyl glucuronide (EtG) was requested by the authorities. The person concerned denied alcohol consumption and did not present any clinical sign of alcoholism. However, EtG was found in concentrations of up to 910pg/mg in hair from different sampling dates suggesting an excessive drinking behavior. The person declared to use a hair lotion on a regularly base. To evaluate a possible effect of the hair lotion, prospective blood and urine controls as well as hair sampling of scalp and pubic hair were performed. The traditional clinical biomarkers of ethanol consumption, CDT and GGT, were inconspicuous in three blood samples taken. EtG was not detected in all collected urine samples. The hair lotion was transmitted to our laboratory. The ethanol concentration in this lotion was determined with 35g/L. The EtG immunoassay gave a positive result indicating EtG, which could be confirmed by GC-MS/MS-NCI. In a follow-up experiment the lotion was applied to the hair of a volunteer over a period of six weeks. After this treatment, EtG could be measured in the hair at a concentration of 72pg/mg suggesting chronic and excessive alcohol consumption. Overnight incubation of EtG free hair in the lotion yielded an EtG concentration of 140pg/mg. In the present case, the positive EtG hair findings could be interpreted as the result of an EtG containing hair care product. To our knowledge, the existence of such a product has not yet been reported, and it is exceptionally unusual to find EtG in cosmetics. Therefore, external sources for hair contamination should always be taken into account when unusual cosmetic treatment is mentioned. In those cases, it is recommended to analyze the hair product for a possible contamination with EtG. The analysis of body hair can help to reveal problems occurring from cosmetic treatment of head hair. As a consequence, the assessment of drinking behavior should be based on more than one diagnostic parameter.

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Organic producers have limited methods of avoiding plant diseases that result in cosmetic damage to produce. Therefore, the appearance of organic produce is often less than perfect. We use an experimental auction to investigate how cosmetic damage affects consumers’ willingness to pay for organic apples. We find that 75% of the participants are willing to pay more for organic than for conventional apples given identical appearance. However, at the first sight of any imperfection in the appearance of the organic apples, this segment is significantly reduced. Furthermore, we find that there is a significant effect of interaction between cosmetic damage and product methods. Even though most consumers say they buy organic products to avoid pesticides, we find that cosmetic damage has a larger impact on the willingness to pay for organic apples than for conventional apples.

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The objective of this work was to determine the nutritional value of different protein sources for "dourado" (Salminus brasiliensis). Thirty juveniles per group (33.51±1.4 g) were hand fed on a reference diet (70%) added of tested ingredients (30%) and chromium oxide III (0.1%). Apparent digestibility coefficients of the gross energy (ADC GE), crude protein (ADC CP) and amino acids of the tested ingredients were evaluated. Corn gluten meal yielded the best results for ADC GE and ADC CP (95.7 and 96.9%, respectively) amongst plant ingredients. Spray-dried blood meal yielded the best values of ADC GE and ADC CP amongst animal ingredients (94.1 and 96.3%, respectively). Wheat bran yielded poorest ADCs coefficients (77 for ADC GE and 88.2% for ADC CP).

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Micronization techniques based on supercritical fluids (SCFs) are promising for the production of particles with controlled size and distribution. The interest of the pharmaceutical field in the development of SCF techniques is increasing due to the need for clean processes, reduced consumption of energy, and to their several possible applications. The food field is still far from the application of SCF micronization techniques, but there is increasing interest mainly for the processing of products with high added value. The aim of this study is to use SCF micronization techniques for the production of particles of pharmaceuticals and food ingredients with controlled particle size and morphology, and to look at their production on semi-industrial scale. The results obtained are also used to understand the processes from the perspective of broader application within the pharmaceutical and food industries. Certain pharmaceuticals, a biopolymer and a food ingredient have been tested using supercritical antisolvent micronization (SAS) or supercritical assisted atomization (SAA) techniques. The reproducibility of the SAS technique has been studied using physically different apparatuses and on both laboratory and semi-industrial scale. Moreover, a comparison between semi-continuous and batch mode has been performed. The behaviour of the system during the SAS process has been observed using a windowed precipitation vessel. The micronized powders have been characterized by particle size and distribution, morphology and crystallinity. Several analyses have been performed to verify if the SCF process modified the structure of the compound or caused degradation or contamination of the product. The different powder morphologies obtained have been linked to the position of the process operating point with respect to the vapour-liquid equilibrium (VLE) of the systems studied, that is, mainly to the position of the mixture critical point (MCP) of the mixture. Spherical micro, submicro- and nanoparticles, expanded microparticles (balloons) and crystals were obtained by SAS. The obtained particles were amorphous or with different degrees of crystallinity and, in some cases, had different pseudo-polymorphic or polymorphic forms. A compound that could not be processed using SAS was micronized by SAA, and amorphous particles were obtained, stable in vials at room temperature. The SCF micronization techniques studied proved to be effective and versatile for the production of particles for several uses. Furthermore, the findings of this study and the acquired knowledge of the proposed processes can allow a more conscious application of SCF techniques to obtain products with the desired characteristics and enable the use of their principles for broader applications.

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The market for natural cosmetics featuring ingredients derived from Amazon natural resources is growing worldwide. However, there is neither enough scientific basis nor quality control of these ingredients. This paper is an account of the chemical constituents and their biological activities of fourteen Amazonian species used in cosmetic industry, including açaí (Euterpe oleracea), andiroba (Carapa guianensis), bacuri (Platonia insignis), Brazil nut (Bertholletia excelsa), buriti (Mauritia vinifera or M. flexuosa), cumaru (Dipteryx odorata), cupuaçu (Theobroma grandiflorum), guarana (Paullinia cupana), mulateiro (Calycophyllum spruceanum), murumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru), patawa (Oenocarpus bataua or Jessenia bataua), pracaxi (Pentaclethra macroloba), rosewood (Aniba rosaeodora), and ucuuba (Virola sebifera). Based on the reviewed articles, we selected chemical markers for the quality control purpose and evaluated analytical methods. Even though chromatographic and spectroscopic methods are major analytical techniques in the studies of these species, molecular approaches will also be important as used in food and medicine traceability. Only a little phytochemical study is available about most of the Amazonian species and some species such as açaí and andiroba have many reports on chemical constituents, but studies on biological activities of isolated compounds and sampling with geographical variation are limited.

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The endogenous microbiota, constituting the microbes that live inside and on humans, is estimated to outnumber human cells by a factor of ten. This commensal microbial population has an important role in many physiological functions, with the densest microbiota population found in the colon. The colonic microbiota is a highly complex and diverse bacterial ecosystem, and a delicate balance exists between the gut microbiota and its host. An imbalance in the microbial ecosystem may lead to severe symptoms in and also beyond the gastrointestinal tract. Due to the important role of the gut microbiota in human health, means of its modification have been introduced in the dietary concepts of pro-, pre- and synbiotics. Prebiotics, which are usually carbohydrates, strive to selectively influence beneficial microbes resident in the colon with the aim of modifying the composition and functionality of the commensal microbial population towards a purportedly healthier one. The study of prebiotic effects on colonic micro-organisms is typically done by using human faecal material, though this provides relatively little information on bacterial populations and metabolic events in different parts of the colon. For this reason, several in vitro models have been developed to investigate the gut microbiota. The aim of this doctoral thesis was to screen through some of the promising prebiotic candidates, characterize their effects on the microbiota through the use of two in vitro methods (pure microbial cultures and a colon simulator model) and to evaluate their potential as emerging prebiotics or synbiotics when combined with the probiotic Bifidobacterium lactis . As a result of the screening work and subsequent colon simulation studies, several compounds with promising features were identified. Xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS), which have previously already shown promise as prebiotic compounds, were well fermented by several probiotic Bifidobacterium lactis strains in pure culture studies and in the following simulation studies utilizing the complex microbiota by endogenous B. lactis Another promising compound was panose, a trisaccharide belonging to isomalto-oligosaccharides (IMO) that also was also able to modify the microbiota in vitro by increasing the number of beneficial microbes investigated. Panose has not been widely studied previously and therefore, this thesis work provided the first data on panose fermentation in mixed colonic microbiota. Galacto-oligosaccharide (GOS) is an established prebiotic, and it was studied here in conjunction with another potential polygosaccharide polydextrose (PDX) and probiotic B. lactis Bi-07. In this final study, the synbiotics including GOS were more effective than the constituting pro- or prebiotics alone in modulating the microbiota composition, thus indicating a synergy resulting from the combination. The results obtained in this in vitro work can be, and have already been, utilized in product development aimed at the nutritional modification of the human colonic microbiota. Some of the compounds have entered the human clinical intervention phase to nvestigate in more detail the prebiotic and synbiotic properties seen in these in vitro studies.

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Läkemedel konsumeras årligen i enorma mängder världen över. Efter intag kommer en del av läkemedlets aktiva förening(ar) att utsöndras från kroppen med urin och fekalier för att sedan transporteras till avloppsreningsverk. Till följd av att reningsverken inte fullständigt förmår rena avloppsvattnet från dessa föreningar kommer de att kontinuerligt tillföras vattenmiljön. Således är det viktigt att utveckla analytiska metoder för att kunna studera halterna av de aktiva föreningarna i reningsverkens utloppsvatten och den närliggande vattenmiljön. Ute i naturen kommer föreningarna att utsättas för olika fysikaliska, kemiska och biologiska processer, vilka kan orsaka förändringar i deras kemiska struktur och därigenom deras identitet och biologiska aktivitet. En stor del av de befintliga aktiva föreningarna genomgår kemisk förändring då de i vattenmiljön utsätts för solljus (fototransformation). Genom fototransformation kan nya föreningar (transformationsprodukter) med andra kemiska och biologiska egenskaper bildas. Denna avhandling inriktar sig på de aktiva föreningarnas förekomst och fotokemiska öde i miljön. I avhandlingen presenteras framtagna analytiska metoder för kvantifiering av läkemedelsföreningar i avloppsvatten och ytvatten samt för studier av vissa utvalda föreningars fotokemiska transformationsvägar. Därtill beskrivs några syntetiska metoder för att få tillgång till transformationsprodukter av det antiinflammatoriska ämnet diklofenak.

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Brazil is the second biggest worldwide producer of cookies and there are many varieties in the market; however, only a few are gluten-free. The objectives of this work were to formulate two gluten-free cookies added with iron, peanut or almond, and analyze their physicochemical, chromatic and sensory properties. Moisture, instrumental color (L*, a*, b* and C*), ash, proteins, lipids, iron, carbohydrates (estimated by difference), and water activity were determined. The acceptance of the products was assessed by 115 untrained taste panelists using a five-point hedonic scale. The data collected from the physicochemical analyses were submitted to Levene's, ANOVA, and Tukey's tests, which showed statistical difference (p < 0.05) in all the attributes for centesimal composition, water activity, and color of the cookies. Peanut and almond cookies could be considered sources of iron once they presented at least 15% of the daily recommended value of intake. They also garnered acceptance indexes of 80 and 85%, respectively, concluding that both formulations developed in this study were source of iron and contained high concentration of lipids and proteins with great sensory acceptance, suggesting their potential consumption by gluten-intolerants.

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Foods behave as non-Newtonian fluids, but little is known about how corn and soybean mix behave under viscometric flow. In order to characterize the rheological behavior of animal feed under viscometric flow, a 70:30 (mass:mass) mixture of ground corn and soybean grains was submitted to a capillary rheometer at 3 different temperatures (80, 120, and 160 °C), different moisture levels (26.5 ± 0.08; 30.4 ± 0.31, and 33.4 ± 0.05%), and 4 shear rates (30.4; 72.9; 304.3, and 728.6/second). Different strain rates and die dimensions were used to obtain the target shear rates. The resulting data were fitted to Power Law, Casson, and Bingham models. Based on experimental data, water content, mass temperature, and the effects of shear rate on the apparent shear viscosity of corn-soy mix were fitted to a single expression (p < 0.001, R² = 0.93): η = 18,769.7 (y)-0.86 e (-9.34 U + 935 T), where y is shear rate, U is sample moisture, and T is sample temperature in Kelvin scale. As expected, such mixture presented a pseudoplastic (shear-thinning) behavior.

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The aim of this work was to evaluate spices and industrial ingredients for the development of functional foods with high phenolic contents and antioxidant capacity. Basil, bay, chives, onion, oregano, parsley, rosemary, turmeric and powdered industrial ingredients (β-carotene, green tea extract, lutein, lycopene and olive extract) had their in vitro antioxidant capacity evaluated by means of the Folin-Ciocalteu reducing capacity and DPPH scavenging ability. Flavonoids identification and quantification were performed by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC). The results showed that spices presented a large variation in flavonoids content and in vitro antioxidant capacity, according to kind, brand and batches. Oregano had the highest antioxidant capacity and parsley had the highest flavonoid content. The industrial ingredient with the highest antioxidant capacity was green tea extract, which presented a high content of epigalocatechin gallate. Olive extract also showed a high antioxidant activity and it was a good source of chlorogenic acid. This study suggests that oregano, parsley, olive and green tea extract have an excellent potential for the development of functional foods rich in flavonoids as antioxidant, as long as the variability between batches/brands is controlled.