De blogs entre los blogs

Este artículo hace parte de la revista Papel de colgadura de la Facultad de Derecho y Ciencias Sociales de la Universidad Icesi de Cali, es una publicación de difusión y agitación cultural. La revista nace de la pasión por la música, los libros, las ilustraciones, el graffiti, los cómics, la web, la fiesta, el cine, la cafeína y de las tardes de tertulia con empanadas y cerveza, que circula en versión impresa dos veces al año, pero su versión digital se actualiza con mayor frecuencia.

"Secretary in Fashion" and "Love-Letters": a study of socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features in the late 17th century English language

Epistolary manuals are conspicuous historical documents for the pedagogy of letter writing; however, their actual usage as manuals by letter writers is unknown. "Secretary in Fashion" by Serre (1668), an epistolary manual, and "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" (1684), an epistolary novel attributed to Behn, both give insights into epistolary conventions. Their inception and nature is interesting, considering their historical context. Despite the Restoration of Charles II, 17th century England was in a confused political state; as a result, texts regarding social convention or politics interested contemporary readers (the novel is inspired by a scandal of Lord Grey, an ardent Whig opposing Charles II). Past epistolary studies focus on 18th rather than 17th century manuals; the latter is typically used as supplementary information. Similarly, past epistolary fiction studies focus on 18th century texts; moreover, linguistic studies on Behn and the novel are deficient. Thus, this study addresses the research questions: 1) What are the socio-cultural and pragmaticlinguistic features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? 2) What are the socio-cultural and pragmatic-linguistic features represented in "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister", and do any of these features correlate with the features represented in "Secretary in Fashion"? How far do the characteristic linguistic features of "Love-Letters between a Nobleman and his Sister" correlate with the practices recommended by the manual? Both texts were qualitatively analysed from an historical pragmatic perspective, which observes the potential effects of the socio-cultural and historical context. Also, as the texts concern shared discourses, comparisons were made with Gricean and Politeness Theory. The results show that the manual is a typical 17th century epistolary manual, aligning particularly with the "Academies of Complements", as it concerns the social conventions of the gentry. The novel mainly upheld instructions on form and matter; deviations occurred due to the amatory nature of some letters, and the narrative force affecting the style. Unfortunately, neither research question elucidates the actual usage of manuals. However, this study does show the epistolary practices of two writers, within specific contexts. It reveals that their 17th century English language use is affected by socialisation, in terms of social conventions concerning social rank, age, and gender; therefore, context varies language use. Also, their popularity reveals the interests of the 17th century society. Interest in epistolary-related texts, surely piques the interest of the modern reader as to why such epistolary-related texts were interesting.

Clasificador semántico de medios sociales mediante análisis basado en expresiones: aplicación a blogs y diarios

La reputación corporativa es la percepción que los diferentes públicos de una empresa tienen acerca de la misma. Estos públicos o stakeholders, son aquellos que se relacionan con la empresa de cualquier manera, pudiéndose distinguir entre públicos internos, empleados, accionistas, directivos, …; y públicos externos, clientes, proveedores, fondos de inversión, …. En los últimos años estamos presenciando como las empresas e instituciones dedican importantes esfuerzos a desarrollar políticas de Reputación Corporativa, ya que una disminución de la reputación redunda directamente en la cuenta de resultados de las compañías por lo que las mejoras que se introduzcan en la gestión de la reputación redundaran directamente en su sostenibilidad económica y social del país donde operan.Para poder medir la RC de una empresa o institución es preciso determinar el sentimiento que dicha empresa o institución tiene en sus públicos. Pero llevar a cabo esta medición es cada día más difícil, ya que la sociedad de la información donde estamos inmersos, hace que los canales de comunicación de los públicos sean mucho mayores que hace unos años( redes sociales, blog, diarios, foros, …) y además, la comunicación puede hacerse casi en tiempo real, tal como sucede en las redes sociales. Para hacer estas mediciones, las principales empresas del sector han utilizado principalmente encuestas las cuales las realizaban empresas especializadas, lo que supone un alto coste y además, los resultados son obtenidos a tiempo pasado o no se alcanza un tamaño de población significativa.El objetivo de este trabajo es realizar una aplicación para determinar la reputación de una empresa en medios de comunicación online. Para ello, se ha desarrollado un sistema de lectura de medios online, que permite localizar y extraer la información de los medios de comunicación online; un clasificador semántico para analizar la información recogida y clasificarla en diferentes temáticas extrayendo el sentimiento de los textos; y finalmente, una interfaz para interactuar con el usuario.

Efeitos dos vídeo-blogs na decisão de compra de produtos cosméticos

Este estudo enquadra-se na área do Marketing Digital, e pretende demonstrar a influência exercida pelos vídeo-blogs no YouTube na decisão de compra de produtos cosméticos em Portugal. Aborda inicialmente conceitos como as redes sociais, mais concretamente os vídeoblogs e a rede social YouTube, o comportamento do consumidor online, o mercado da cosmética em Portugal e o Marketing ligado à industria da beleza. O objetivo deste estudo é o de demonstrar como as marcas de cosmética podem aumentar as suas vendas e notoriedade com a influência exercida pelas beauty vloggers. A fim de perceber a influência na tomada de decisão no que diz respeito a produtos de cosmética, adotámos uma metodologia quantitativa, que assentou na realização de inquéritos online por questionário. Os dados foram organizados e analisados com a ajuda do software de análise quantitativa SPSS. Os principais resultados observados determinam uma influência positiva dos vídeo-blogs na decisão de compra de produtos cosméticos. Esta influência poderá demonstrar que o sucesso das empresas de cosméticos na divulgação, venda e fidelização de clientes deve apontar cada vez mais para a utilização intensiva de video bloggers dedicadas a temas de beleza, e identificadas no estudo como líderes de opinião, para as suas estratégias de comunicação.

Atitudes dos leitores de blogues de moda e beleza perante as publicações patrocinadas : intenção de compra e eWOM

Mestrado em Marketing

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

International Branding Strategies : In Swedish and Russian Fashion Companies

There are a lot of different business strategies for any company. However, in the fashion industry, the best way to become successful is to develop the brand using special branding strategies. Hence, a brand is the main weapon for fashion companies, which helps to launch international market and to create loyal customers around the world. Nowadays, due to the difficult current political situations and the collapse of oil and the dollar a lot of companies in different industries have to change their business strategies. It is especially true for fashion companies, because they depend on consumers ' income and their purchasing power. In the case of the fashion industry, branding strategy development can be more effective, than just business strategy. Hence, this thesis discusses the following problem: What branding strategy should Russian and Swedish fashion companies choose in order to build a strong brand and enter the international market.  The purpose of this thesis is to analyze various branding strategies of Russian and Swedish fashion companies during the process of entering foreign markets. At the end of this thesis, practical contribution in their process of international branding strategy creation will be discussed. In order to answer research questions more broadly and accurately, the mixed research method, using quantitive and qualitative study through interviews and survey was chosen. Semi-structured interviews were made with the CEO and brand managers of Russian and Swedish fashion companies. Moreover, the survey was made with two different questionnaires: for Russian and for Swedish customers. In the case of qualitative research, the author found that fashion companies from Russia and Sweden have got not just some features and differences, but also common aspects. The primary data from interviews allowed the author to understand the specifics of brand management in the fashion industry. It was found, that there are some useful aspects in Swedish strategies, which can be used by Russian companies to develop their brands on the international market. In the case of quantitative research, preferences of consumers from Russia and Sweden were analyzed and also some features were identified. Survey results provided the author with a common understanding about purchase habits, attitudes and perceptions to fashion brands. According to these, some hypothesizes, which are formulated in the first part of the thesis, have been proven or disproven. It was found, that preferences of Russian and Swedish people are pretty the same, however Russian customers do not like to risk with new brands and prefer well-known and trusted brands while Swedish customers are open for any brand, which can satisfy their tastes.

Emprendimiento NORNA

La creación de Norna Ltda., motivada por la expansión mundial de la idea del cuidado por el planeta, junto con el avance económico de Colombia se implanta como la base de un movimiento social y cultural que pretende expandirse por el país. Para la empresa, el objetivo principal es realzar el valor de la conservación del medio ambiente, a través de un bien tangible, para evitar la perpetuación de la sostenibilidad ecológica e inclusión social como una idea impalpable. Para confrontar el Statu Quo de la moda rápida que regularmente se encuentra acompañada por condiciones laborales lamentables, Norna ltda., confecciona y distribuye chaquetas a base de algodón orgánico a través de su página virtual en Colombia.

End-to-end Deep Metric Learning con Vision-Language Model per il Fashion Image Captioning

L'image captioning è un task di machine learning che consiste nella generazione di una didascalia, o caption, che descriva le caratteristiche di un'immagine data in input. Questo può essere applicato, ad esempio, per descrivere in dettaglio i prodotti in vendita su un sito di e-commerce, migliorando l'accessibilità del sito web e permettendo un acquisto più consapevole ai clienti con difficoltà visive. La generazione di descrizioni accurate per gli articoli di moda online è importante non solo per migliorare le esperienze di acquisto dei clienti, ma anche per aumentare le vendite online. Oltre alla necessità di presentare correttamente gli attributi degli articoli, infatti, descrivere i propri prodotti con il giusto linguaggio può contribuire a catturare l'attenzione dei clienti. In questa tesi, ci poniamo l'obiettivo di sviluppare un sistema in grado di generare una caption che descriva in modo dettagliato l'immagine di un prodotto dell'industria della moda dato in input, sia esso un capo di vestiario o un qualche tipo di accessorio. A questo proposito, negli ultimi anni molti studi hanno proposto soluzioni basate su reti convoluzionali e LSTM. In questo progetto proponiamo invece un'architettura encoder-decoder, che utilizza il modello Vision Transformer per la codifica delle immagini e GPT-2 per la generazione dei testi. Studiamo inoltre come tecniche di deep metric learning applicate in end-to-end durante l'addestramento influenzino le metriche e la qualità delle caption generate dal nostro modello.

Sustainable futuring. Learning and unlearning the past A critical discourse study of ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in Vogue Italia (1965-2021)

Recent scholarly works on the relationship between ‘fashion’ and ‘sustainability’ have identified a need for a systemic transition towards fashion media ‘for sustaianbility’. Nevertheless, the academic research on the topic is still limited and rather circumscribed to the analysis of marketing practices, while only recently some more systemic and critical analyses of the symbolic production of sustainability through fashion media have been undertaken. Responding to this need for an in-depth investigation of ‘sustainability’-related media production, my research focuses on the ‘fashion sustainability’-related discursive formations in the context of one of the most influential fashion magazines today – Vogue Italia. In order to investigate the ways in which the ‘sustainability’ discourse was formed and has evolved, the study considered the entire Vogue Italia archive from 1965 to 2021. The data collection was carried out in two phases, and the individualised relevant discursive units were then in-depth and critically analysed to allow for a grounded assessment of the media giant’s position. The Discourse-Historical Approach provided a methodological base for the analysis, which took into consideration the various levels of context: the immediate textual and intertextual, but also the broader socio-cultural context of the predominant, over-production oriented and capital-led fashion system. The findings led to a delineation of the evolution of the ‘fashion sustainability’ discourse, unveiling how despite Vogue Italia’s auto-determination as attentive to ‘sustainability’-related topics, the magazine is systemically employing discursive strategies which significantly mitigate the meaning of the ‘sustainable commitment’ and thus the meaning of ‘fashion sustainability’.

Economia Circolare e Industria 4.0: big data come strumento di sostenibilità nell’industria del fashion

L’argomento di questa tesi nasce dall’idea di unire due temi che stanno assumendo sempre più importanza nei nostri giorni, ovvero l’economia circolare e i big data, e ha come obiettivo quello di fornire dei punti di collegamento tra questi due. In un mondo tecnologico come quello di oggi, che sta trasformando tutto quello che abbiamo tra le nostre mani in digitale, si stanno svolgendo sempre più studi per capire come la sostenibilità possa essere supportata dalle tecnologie emergenti. L’economia circolare costituisce un nuovo paradigma economico in grado di sostituirsi a modelli di crescita incentrati su una visione lineare, puntando ad una riduzione degli sprechi e ad un radicale ripensamento nella concezione dei prodotti e nel loro uso nel tempo. In questa transizione verso un’economia circolare può essere utile considerare di assumere le nuove tecnologie emergenti per semplificare i processi di produzione e attuare politiche più sostenibili, che stanno diventando sempre più apprezzate anche dai consumatori. Il tutto verrà sostenuto dall’utilizzo sempre più significativo dei big data, ovvero di grandi dati ricchi di informazioni che permettono, tramite un’attenta analisi, di sviluppare piani di produzione che seguono il paradigma circolare: questo viene attuato grazie ai nuovi sistemi digitali sempre più innovativi e alle figure specializzate che acquisiscono sempre più conoscenze in questo campo.

Fashion communication strategy: il caso Jacquemus

Il presente elaborato intende studiare la comunicazione di moda, nello specifico la comunicazione aziendale della casa di moda di lusso francese Jacquemus. Per fare ciò, si inizia approfondendo l’argomento della storia della moda e riflettendo su come essa possa essere uno strumento di comunicazione non verbale. Successivamente, si prendono in esame i concetti aziendali di Brand Identity, Brand Positioning e analisi SWOT per analizzare come l’azienda di moda francese ha costruito la sua identità di marca, come si posiziona nella mente dei consumatori e per individuare i suoi punti di forza, di debolezza, le sue opportunità di crescita e le minacce che possono, potenzialmente, ostacolarla. Infine, si prendono in considerazione le strategie di marketing attuate da Jacquemus al fine di rendere efficace la sua comunicazione d’impresa, tenendo conto dei nuovi media digitali a disposizione e concentrandosi anche sul modo in cui l’azienda è riuscita a contrastare la crisi dovuta al lockdown in piena pandemia da Covid-19.

Graph-based Vision-Language Model for Multi-Modal Retrieval of Fashion Products

Artificial Intelligence is reshaping the field of fashion industry in different ways. E-commerce retailers exploit their data through AI to enhance their search engines, make outfit suggestions and forecast the success of a specific fashion product. However, it is a challenging endeavour as the data they possess is huge, complex and multi-modal. The most common way to search for fashion products online is by matching keywords with phrases in the product's description which are often cluttered, inadequate and differ across collections and sellers. A customer may also browse an online store's taxonomy, although this is time-consuming and doesn't guarantee relevant items. With the advent of Deep Learning architectures, particularly Vision-Language models, ad-hoc solutions have been proposed to model both the product image and description to solve this problems. However, the suggested solutions do not exploit effectively the semantic or syntactic information of these modalities, and the unique qualities and relations of clothing items. In this work of thesis, a novel approach is proposed to address this issues, which aims to model and process images and text descriptions as graphs in order to exploit the relations inside and between each modality and employs specific techniques to extract syntactic and semantic information. The results obtained show promising performances on different tasks when compared to the present state-of-the-art deep learning architectures.