Controle de qualidade da vitamina C em produtos acabados

Vitamin C is vulnerable to oxidative degradation and then the aim of this study was conducting a literature review about quality control of vitamin C in finished products. The conclusion is determined multiple emulsions and products which contain encapsulant materials are able to protect it from oxidation ensuring its efficacy.

Validation of an alternative analitycal method for the quantification of antioxidant activity in plant extracts

SUMMARY. A new method was developed to evaluate the total antioxidant activity in plant extracts, which was based on radical scavenging using 2,2’-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline)-6-sulfonic acid. The proposed method was linear in the range of 0.86 to 26.0 μg/mL, displaying a correlation coefficient of 0.999. Moreover, the accuracy and precision analysis showed agreement with ANVISA guidelines (96.66 to 98.46 % and < 5.0%, respectively). The method demonstrated sensitivity, robustness and efficiency in detecting low concentrations of plant extracts (detection and quantification limit of 0.86 and 2.87 μg/mL, respectively) that may be present in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics preparations, again in agreement with ANVISA. In addition, the assay is inexpensive and easy to perform.

Análise da influência do agente umectante na estabilidade reológica e avaliação de cristais líquidos em formulações cosméticas

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Estudo fitoquímico dos extratos de folhas, galhos e cascas do caule de Calycophyllum spruceanum Benth para testes de potencial de cosmético funcional

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Redes de inovação: mapeamento de inventores de patentes em uma empresa do setor de cosméticos

This article aims to identify patterns in the organization of innovation network by mapping the network inventors of a cosmetics company and identifying ways to promote innovation capacity through interconnectivity. The research was conducted through case study methods, and, for this, inventors mappings were made, based on the records of patents previously surveyed, taking into consideration the linkage (internal or external) of each inventor with the company and also the amount of patent citations. It was identified higher hierarchy in networks with the presence of collaborators externals to the company as well as a possible higher technological content, since the amount of citations was higher compared to other networks. It is verified, finally, that inventors mappings (although a patent is not the only measuring factor of innovation) can identify key features to help a better management of innovation.

Síntese e caracterização de monômeros azo-carbonatos para a preparação de poli(azo-carbonato)s e poli)azo-uretana)s

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Desenvolvimento de sensor baseado em polímeros molecularmente impressos para determinação de álcoois superiores em óleo fúsel

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals

The market for cosmeceuticals continues with significant annual growth, but today consumers are more aware of nutritional products that contribute to both skin health and disease prevention. In the last 10 years, pharmacists, chemists, nutritionists, and physicians have been working together to develop new nutritional applications to satisfy peoples needs and demands. As a recent result of convergence phenomenon between cosmetics and food industries, nutricosmetics is a blurry area unfamiliar to many consumers and sometimes even to foods and cosmetics experts. Characterized by oral supplementation of nutrients, nutricosmetics are also known as beauty pills,beauty from within, and even oral cosmetics. The major claim is the antiaging effect, reducing wrinkles by fighting free radicals generated by solar radiation. Among the ingredients used in nutricosmetics, antioxidants represent the most crucial. The best-known antioxidants are carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins, and procyanidins). This study presents an overview about the concept of nutricosmetics and gives us information about the difference between nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. The article also discusses about carotenoids and polyphenols, two classes of ingredients often employed in such products.

Genotoxic and mutagenic effects of erythrosine B, a xanthene food dye, on HepG2 cells

Erythrosine (ErB) is a xanthene and an US Food and Drug Administration approved dye used in foods, drugs and cosmetics. Although its utilization is permitted, ErB is described as inhibitor of enzymes and protein-protein interactions and is toxic to pituitary and spermatogenesis processes. However, the genotoxicity and mutagenicity of ErB is inconclusive in the literature. This study aimed to analyze the genotoxicity of this dye using the alkaline comet assay and is the first investigation to evaluate ErB mutagenicity using the cytokinesis block micronucleus cytome (CBMN-Cyt) assay in HepG2 cells. These cells were chosen because they produce phase I and phase II enzymes that can mimic in vivo metabolism. The cells were treated with seven concentrations (0.1-70.0 mu g mL(-1)) of ErB, and the results showed genotoxicity at the two highest concentrations and mutagenicity at six concentrations. Furthermore, as micronuclei result from clastogenic and aneugenic processes, while comet assay is often considered more sensitive and detects DNA single strain breaks, we suggest that an aneugenic is responsible for the observed damage. Although ErB is approved for use in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries, it must be used carefully because it damages the DNA structure. (C) 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

The problems of equivalence in advertising translation: examples from English and Russian

Abstract The academic environment has recently recognized the importance and benefits that an extensive research on the translation of advertising can have for translation studies. Despite the growing interest and increasing research activity in the field it is still difficult to speak about a theory of advertising translation in general. There is a need for further study encompassing different languages and both heterogeneous and homogenous cultures that will give the possibility to receive a more complete map of what the translation of advertising is and should be. Previous studies have been concentrated, for the most part, on Western European language pairs. This study is a research into perfume and cosmetics print advertisements translated from English into Russian where both visual and verbal elements are considered. Three broad translation approaches have been identified in what concerns the verbal message: Translated message, parallel translation, recreated adverts, and three approaches in dealing with the image: similar images, modified images, completely different images. The thesis shows that where Russian advertisements for perfume products tend to have a message, or create one, this is often lacking in the English copy. The article ends by suggesting that perfume advertisements favor the standardization approach when entering Russian market. The attempts to localize the advert have also been noticed although they are obviously less numerous in perfume adverts and are rather instances of adaptation - a mix between the localization and standardization approaches since they keep drawing on the same globally accepted universals about female beauty and concern for ‘woman’s identity’ (we focused our analysis on products designed for female consumers). This study, complementing previous studies, aims to be a contribution to the description of laws and strategies that guide the translation of advertising texts into Russian.

Ingegnerizzazione di nanocosmetici

This study led to the development of new synthesis process to obtain "nano delivery" system like aquasome, suitable to enhance the affinity between dyes and human hair for cosmetic formulation. These systems has been based on silver nanoparticles stabilized by different kind of polymers as PVP or celluloses. The research has been conducted in two steps: the first involved the study and optimization of the nano delivery system synthesis conditions as concentrations, pH and temperature. The second concerned the preparation of a stable, low hazard and with antibacterial and antifungal properties formulation containing the aquasome and a colorant already used in cosmetics (i.e. Basic Red 51) for hair dyeing application.

Diblock copolymer - nanocrystal hybrids for optoelectronic applications

Small, smaller, nano - it is a milestone in the development of new materials and technologies. Nanoscience is now present in our daily lives: in the car industry with self-cleaning surfaces, in medicine with cancer therapies, even our clothes and cosmetics utilize nanoparticles. The number and variety of applications has been growing fast in recent years, and the possibilities seem almost infinite. Nanoparticles made of inorganic materials have found applications in new electronic technologies, and organic nanomaterials have been added to resins to produce very strong but light weight materials.rnThis work deals with the combination of organic and inorganic materials for the fabrication of new, functional hybrid systems. For that purpose, block copolymers were made with a long, solubility-enhancing and semiconducting block, and a short anchor block. They were synthesized by either RAFT polymerization or Siegrist polycondensation. For the second block, an active ester was grafted on and subsequently reacted with the anchor molecules in a polymer analogue reaction. The resulting block copolymers had different properties; poly(para-phenylene vinylene) showed self-assembly in organic solvents, which resulted in gelling of the solution. The fibers from a diluted solution were visible through microscopy. When polymer chains were attached to TiO2 nanorods, the hybrids could be integrated into polymer fibers. A light-induced charge separation was demonstrated through KPFM. The polymer charged positively and the charge could travel along the fibers for several hundred nanometers. Polymers made via RAFT polymerization were based on poly(vinyltriphenylamine). Ruthenium chromophores which carried anchor groups were attached to the second block. These novel block copolymers were then attached to ZnO nanorods. A light-induced charge separation was also demonstrated in this system. The ability to disperse inorganic nanoparticles within the film is another advantage of these block copolymers. This was shown with the example of CdSe tetrapods. Poly(vinyltriphenylamine dimer) with disulfide anchor groups was attached to CdSe tetrapods. These four-armed nanoparticles are supposed to show very high charge transport. A polymer without anchor groups was also mixed with the tetrapods in order to investigate the influence of the anchor groups. It was shown that without them no good films were formed and the tetrapods aggregated heavily in the samples. Additionally, a large difference in the film qualities and the aggregation of the tetrapods was found in the sample of the polymer with anchor groups, dependent on the tetrapod arm length and the polymer loading. These systems are very interesting for hybrid solar cells. This work also illustrates similar systems with quantum dots. The influence of the energy level of the polymer on the hole transport from the polymer to the quantum dots, as well as on the efficiency of QLEDs was studied. For this purpose two different polymers were synthesized with different HOMO levels. It was clearly shown that the polymer with the adjusted lower HOMO level had a better hole injection to the quantum dots, which resulted in more efficient light emitting diodes.rnThese systems all have in common the fact that novel, and specially designed polymers, were attached to inorganic nanocrystals. All of these hybrid materials show fascinating properties, and are helpful in the research of new materials for optoelectronic applications.

Analysis of zinc oxide nanoparticles as a potential mutagen of respiratory epithelia

Metallische Nanopartikel und ihre Oxide (z.B. ZnO NP, TiO2 NP und Fe2O3 NP) werden aufgrund ihrer chemischen und physikalischen Eigenschaften häufig als Additive in der Reifenproduktion, in Katalysatoren, Lebensmitteln, Arzneimitteln und Kosmetikprodukten verwendet. Künftig wird ein kontinuierlicher Anstieg der industriellen Anwendung (~ 1663 Tonnen im Jahr 2025) mit gesteigerter Freisetzung in die Umwelt erwartet, was zwangsläufig zu einer vermehrten Aufnahme über das respiratorische Epithel führt. Metalldampffieber ist als gesundheitsschädigender Effekt von Metalloxid-haltigen Aerosolen (z.B. ZnO) nach Inhalation bekannt. Immunreaktionen, wie beispielsweise Entzündungen, werden häufig mit der Entstehung von Sauerstoffradikalen (ROS) in Verbindung gebracht, die wiederum zu DNA-Schäden führen können. Drei mögliche Ursachen der Genotoxität werden angenommen: direkte Interaktion von Nanopartikeln mit intrazellulären Strukturen, Interaktion von Ionen dissoziierter Partikel mit intrazellulären Strukturen sowie die Entstehung von ROS initiiert durch Partikel oder Ionen.rnDie vorliegende Studie befasst sich mit den Mechanismen der Genotoxizität von ZnO Nanopartikeln (ZnO NP), als Beispiel für metallische Nanopartikel, im respiratorischen Epithel. In der Studie wurde gezielt die intrazelluläre Aufnahme und Verteilung von ZnO NP, deren Toxizität, deren DNA schädigendes Potential sowie die Aktivierung der DNA damage response (DDR) analysiert.rnEs konnten kaum internalisierte ZnO NP mittels TEM detektiert werden. Innerhalb der ersten Sekunden nach Behandlung mit ZnO NP wurde spektrofluorometrisch ein starker Anstieg der intrazellulären Zn2+ Konzentration gemessen. In unbehandelten Zellen war Zn2+ in granulären Strukturen lokalisiert. Die Behandlung mit ZnO NP führte zu einer Akkumulation von Zn2+ in diesen Strukturen. Im zeitlichen Verlauf verlagerten sich die Zn2+-Ionen in das Zytoplasma, sowie in Zellkerne und Mitochondrien. Es wurde keine Kolokalisation von Zn2+ mit den frühen Endosomen und dem endoplasmatischen Retikulum beobachtet. Die Vorbehandlung der Zellen mit Diethylen-triaminpentaessigsäure (DTPA), als extrazellulärem Komplexbildner, verhinderte den intrazellulären Anstieg von Zn2+ nach Behandlung mit den Partikeln.rnDie Behandlung mit ZnO NP resultierte in einer zeit- und dosisabhängigen Reduktion der zellulären Viabilität, während die intrazelluläre ROS-Konzentrationen in den ersten 30 min leicht und anschließend kontinuierlich bis zum Ende der Messung anstiegen. Außerdem verringerte sich das mitochondriale Membranpotential, während sich die Anzahl der frühapoptotischen Zellen in einer zeitabhängigen Weise erhöhte. rnDNA Doppelstrangbrüche (DNA DSB) wurden mittels Immunfluoreszenz-Färbung der γH2A.X foci sichtbar gemacht und konnten nach Behandlung mit ZnO NP detektiert werden. Die Vorbehandlung mit dem Radikalfänger N-Acetyl-L-Cytein (NAC) resultierte in stark reduzierten intrazellulären ROS-Konzentrationen sowie wenigen DNA DSB. Die DNA Schädigung wurde durch Vorbehandlung mit DTPA ganz verhindert.rnDie Aktivierung der DDR wurde durch die Analyse von ATM, ATR, Chk1, Chk2, p53 und p21 mittels Western Blot und ELISA nach Behandlung mit ZnO NP überprüft. Der ATR/Chk1 Signalweg wurde durch ZnO NP nicht aktiviert. Die Komplexierung von Zn2+ resultierte in einer verminderten ATM/Chk2 Signalwegaktivierung. Es zeigte sich, dass das Abfangen von ROS keinen Effekt auf die ATM/Chk2 Signalwegaktivierung hatte.rnZusammengefasst wurde festgestellt, dass die Exposition mit ZnO NP in der Entstehung von ROS, reduzierter Viabilität und vermindertem mitochondrialem Membranpotential resultiert, sowie zeitabhängig eine frühe Apoptose initiiert. ZnO NP dissoziierten extrazellulär und wurden schnell als Zn2+ über unbekannte Mechanismen internalisiert. Die Zn2+-Ionen wurden im Zytoplasma, sowie besonders in den Mitochondrien und dem Zellkern, akkumuliert. Die DDR Signalgebung wurde durch ZnO NP aktiviert, jedoch nicht durch NAC inhibiert. Es wurde gezeigt, dass DTPA die DDR Aktivierung komplett inhibierte. Die Behandlung mit ZnO NP induzierte DNA DSB. Die Inhibition von ROS reduzierte die DNA DSB und die Komplexierung der Zn2+ verhinderte die Entstehung von DNA DSB.rnDiese Daten sprechen für die Dissoziation der Partikel und die hierbei freigesetzten Zn2+ als Hauptmediator der Genotoxizität metallischer Nanopartikel. rn

T-cell recognition of chemicals, protein allergens and drugs: towards the development of in vitro assays

Chemicals can elicit T-cell-mediated diseases such as allergic contact dermatitis and adverse drug reactions. Therefore, testing of chemicals, drugs and protein allergens for hazard identification and risk assessment is essential in regulatory toxicology. The seventh amendment of the EU Cosmetics Directive now prohibits the testing of cosmetic ingredients in mice, guinea pigs and other animal species to assess their sensitizing potential. In addition, the EU Chemicals Directive REACh requires the retesting of more than 30,000 chemicals for different toxicological endpoints, including sensitization, requiring vast numbers of animals. Therefore, alternative methods are urgently needed to eventually replace animal testing. Here, we summarize the outcome of an expert meeting in Rome on 7 November 2009 on the development of T-cell-based in vitro assays as tools in immunotoxicology to identify hazardous chemicals and drugs. In addition, we provide an overview of the development of the field over the last two decades.