On the cross-road of ethical- and fashion consumerism: intentions of pink ribbon campaign consumers

Tutkielman tavoitteena oli selvittää Roosanauha kampanjan tuotteiden ostoon liittyvää aikeen muodostumista kuluttajilla. Lisäksi tavoitteena oli selvittää onko aikeen muodostumisessa eroja uuden pinkin värin tai lahjoitus ominaisuuden osalta. Tutkimus toteutettiin sähköisenä kyselynä, jota analysoitiin tilastollisin menetelmin, lähinnä korrelaatioiden avulla. Tutkimus ei saavuttanut toivottua päämääräänsä lähinnä huonoksi jääneen vastausten kokonaismäärän vuoksi.Joitakin suuntaa antavia tuloksia pystyttiin kuitenkin tunnistamaan. Tuloksissa oli viitteitä lahjoitusominaisuuden tärkeydestä kuluttajille sekä vaaleanpunaiseen väriin positiivisesti asennoitumisesta. Kampanjan jatkoa ajatellen markkinoijien on syytä huomata tuloksissa ilmennyt värin tärkeä rooli sekä lahjoitusominaisuudelle painottunut sosiaalisten normien vahvuus.

Consumption of Fashion Luxury Brands

The main objective of this study is to find out why people buy luxury brands and which factors influence their decisions. The elements of luxury brands as well as motivation, culture and self-concept is researched as being the main factors behind luxury consumption. It was important to conduct this study because the luxury market is growing with a fast pace and it has hardly been research before. This study was conducted as a qualitative research. Theoretical part is based on the literature and on researches conducted before about the matter. Purposeful sampling method was used in empirical part by interviewing designers Jukka Rintala and Hanna Sarén as well as consumers of luxury brands, who work in the fashion industry. Two different viewpoints were chosen in order to research if designers’ and consumers’ thoughts differed. This study shows that the elements of luxury brands are deemed pretty much the same all around the world and also between the designers and consumers interviewed. Exclusivity referring to unique design and “hard to get” as well as good quality meaning superior materials, were mentioned as the most important elements of luxury brands. According to this study motivation behind luxury consumption is to a great extent dependent on the culture where the luxuries are consumed. However, self-concept has the biggest effect on luxury consumption. This study shows that people in individualistic cultures buy luxuries because they want to. People tend to spoil themselves and show off, thus making them feel good when buying luxuries. However, uniqueness is appreciated. On contrast, in collectivistic cultures people buy luxuries because they have to. Social pressure is much greater in Eastern than in Western culture that being the reason wealth is expected show. This study shows that in some cases designers' and consumers' thoughts about luxury consumption differ. Especially, a big gap was found when talking about materialism behind luxury consumption. The designers did not believe it to be the reason behind luxury consumption where consumers strongly did.

Merchandising Strategies and Retail Performance for Seasonal Fashion Products

This study presents mathematical methods for evaluation of retail performance with special regard to product sourcing strategies. Forecast accuracy, process lead time, offshore / local sourcing mix and up front / replenishment buying mix are defined as critical success factors in connection with sourcing seasonal products with a fashion content. As success measures, this research focuses on service level, lost sales, product substitute percentage, gross margin, gross margin return on inventory and mark down rate. The accuracy of demand forecast is found to be a fundamental success factor. Forecast accuracy depends on lead time. Lead times are traditionally long and buying decisions are made seven to eight months prior to the start of the selling season. Forecast errors cause stockouts and lost sales. Some of the products bought for the selling season will not be sold and have to be marked down and sold at clearance, causing loss of gross margin. Gross margin percentage is not the best tool for evaluating sourcing decisions and in the context of this study gross margin return on inventory, which combines profitability and assets management, is used. The findings of this research suggest that there are more profitable ways of sourcing products than buying them from low cost offshore sources. Mixing up front and inseason replenishment deliveries, especially when point of sale information is used for improving forecast accuracy, results in better retail performance. Quick Response and Vendor Managed Inventory strategies yield better results than traditional up front buying from offshore even if local purchase prices are higher. Increasing the number of selling seasons, slight over buying for the season in order to

Agility in international fast fashion retailing

The birth of Internet technologies, the developments of fast fashion and multiple retailing channels have created a need for a new, more integrated way for doing retailing. Agility in fast fashion retailing could be seen as a significant way of responding to these changes and furthermore, as a way to respond to consumers’ altering demands. The purpose of this study was to explore the ways in which agile supply chains and integrated multichannel retailing influence the international fast fashion retailing. A framework for agility in retail was developed based on available theoretical considerations in distribution and communication channels. Qualitative research methods and qualitative content analysis were used. Four expert interviews were carried out to gain new perspectives to the objectives. The rest of the data was collected from an industry specific document, expert video and two expert lectures. Following the data collection, the research material was analyzed with qualitative content analysis. The empirical findings on agility in retail were presented based on a coding frame. It was found that agility in retail has multiple parts, which are overlapping and affecting one another. Furthermore, instead of viewing the agile supply chain and integrated multichannel retailing separately of each other as usual, it was found that they should be integrated, and the term “agility” was proposed to denote this approach. Also, it was found that the most common drivers and constrains of integrated multichannel retailing were the new Internet technologies and customer demand. Brick-and-mortar store, online store, mobile devices and social media were found to be the most common retailing channels. Furthermore, in-store technology, click-and-collect approach, NFC-buying, RFID-technology as well as 3D- digital simulations on fabrics and patterns will enhance agility even more in the future. In addition, environmental issues, customer experiences and communication will be important factors. This study has provided new practical insights for the future retailing. Furthermore, it has contributed to the academic research by discussing the traditional approaches of agility in fast fashion retail and bringing in new insights.

The Challenges and Opportunities of e-Commerce in Fashion Branding from an e-Trust and e-Loyalty Perspective

This thesis discovers the main challenges and opportunities that e-Commerce brings to the fashion industry and to the process of building brand trust and loyalty in particular. The field of e-Commerce is investigated and the findings, benefits and challenges, are implemented into companies’ branding strategies. Then, the effect of companies’ online branding actions on customers’ behaviour is studied. New perspectives and ideas are developed for fashion retailers to build trust online and increase the number of customers who continuously utilize brand’s products and services.

Social networks and networking facilitating internationalization: Experiences of two Finnish fashion companies

Background: Fashion is a dynamic and creative industry where larger retailers are enjoying international success. Small businesses however are struggling in the face of international expansion, as they lack the necessary resources and managerial know-how. The Finnish fashion industry has neither been able to develop the industry environment to support small and micro firms nor has Finland relevant finance or public domains, such as, seen in other Nordic countries. Networking has been recognized to facilitate organizational growth and international expansion in industries such as manufacturing and high technology. It has enabled smaller companies to gain resources, knowledge and experiences otherwise unattainable. Objective: The purpose of this study was to explore how networking has been utilized in the Finnish fashion industry. Particularly social relationships and networks are examined, as they emphasize the importance of individuals. Exploration on the past actions should also provide insight how networks and networking could be utilized and developed in the future. Main findings: It was discovered that the Finnish fashion industry (social) network is rather dense. This was mainly due to the small size of the Finnish market. In the early years of the establishment of the company, close contacts seemed to be utilized. As a company expands and extends its business, the relationships tended to move towards more utilitarian in nature. However, in some cases, the long term relationships had also affectionate features, such as trust and commitment. International networking was found to have positive impact on business opportunities. Participation to events, such as trade shows, was perceived as one of the best ways to meet new international contacts and to develop ones network. Active networking in the Finnish market, however, created both domestic and international opportunities. Furthermore, cooperation and open communication were discovered to facilitate innovation and projects. The public sector seemed to lack the interest in supporting the fashion industry according to the interviewees. The major issues for the fashion industry still concerned, among others, funding, administrative guidance and public support for developing the industry as a whole.

Consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. Examining beliefs about fashion industry and attitudes towards ethical fashion

Globalization and the developments of supply chain have made inexpensive labor and the low production costs of developing countries available to businesses worldwide. Unfortunately, these developments have also led to the exploitation of human and natural resources. The increasing supply of cheap and fashionable clothing has created a contradiction between consumers’ concerns for sustainability and their purchase behavior in the fashion industry. Since the uncovering of several sweatshop scandals in the 1980’s and 1990’s ethical fashion brands have started to emerge. Ethical fashion has sparked the interest of consumers and studies have shown promising positive attitudes towards it. However, these attitudes have failed to translate into action and purchase behavior of ethical fashion has not reached the expectations. In order to translate the positive attitudes into buying companies must understand consumer’s motivations and reasons behind the purchase decision. The objective of this study is to understand the antecedents behind young consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. The study is based on the theory of planned behavior which has been widely used to study consumer behavior and purchase decisions. The theory has also been used in ethical decision-making and fashion context before. According to the theory, in order to understand purchase intentions consumer’s attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were studied. The theory also states that attitudes are formed from beliefs, thus, consumer’s beliefs about the fashion industry were studied. To contribute to existing research, the effect of sweatshop issues and environmental issues were compared. The data was collected from university students (n=617) with an online survey. The results were analyzed by statistical methods and they revealed that young Finnish consumers hold positive attitudes towards buying ethical fashion as well as positive purchase intentions of ethical fashion. A strong relationship was found between positive attitudes and positive purchase intentions. Also, the more negative consumers’ beliefs of the fashion industry were the more positive their attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were. In contradiction to previous research this study revealed that environmental issues had greater effect on attitudes than sweatshop issues. Interesting differences between consumers were found depending on their field of education. Students from humanities and social sciences held the most negative beliefs as well as most positive attitudes and purchase intentions of ethical fashion.

From social action to business action - A qualitative research on the professionalization process of a blogger: Case P.s. I Love Fashion -blog

Blogging is one of the most common forms of social media today. Blogs have become a powerful media and bloggers are settled stakeholders to marketers. Commercialization of the blogosphere has enabled an increasing number of bloggers professionalize and blog as a full-time occupation. The purpose of this study is to understand the professionalization process of a blogger from an amateur blogger to a professional actor. The following sub-questions were used to further elaborate the topic: What have been the meaningful events and developments fostering professionalization? What are the prerequisites for popularity in blogging? Are there any key success factors to acknowledge in order being able to make business out of your blog? The theoretical framework of this study was formed based on the two chosen focus areas for professionalization; social drivers and business drivers. The theoretical framework is based on literature from fields of marketing and social sciences, as well as previous research on social media, blogging and professionalization. The study is a qualitative case-study and the research data was collected in a semi-structured interview. The case chosen to this study is a lifestyle-blog. The writer of the case blog has been able to develop her blog to become a full-time professional blogger. Based on the results, the professionalization process of a blogger is not a defined process, but instead comprised of coincidental events as well as considered advancements. Success in blogging is based on the bloggers own motivation and passion for writing and expressing oneself in the form of a blog, instead of a systematic construction of a successful career in blogging. Networking with other bloggers as well as affiliates was seen as an important success factor. Popularity in the blogosphere and a high number of followers enable professionalization, as marketers actively seek to collaborate with popular bloggers with strong personal brands. Bloggers with strong personal brands are especially attractive due to their opinion leadership in their reference group. A blogger can act professionally either as entrepreneur or blogging for a commercial webpage. According to the results of this study, it is beneficial for the blogger’s professional development as well as career progress, to act on different operating models

Regulation of Spermatogenesis: Differentiation of GFP-labeled Stem Cells and the Function of Cytoplasmic Bridges

During spermatogenesis, different genes are expressed in a strictly coordinated fashion providing an excellent model to study cell differentiation. Recent identification of testis specific genes and the development of green fluorescence protein (GFP) transgene technology and an in vivo system for studying the differentiation of transplanted male germ cells in infertile testis has opened new possibilities for studying the male germ cell differentiation at molecular level. We have employed these techniques in combination with transillumination based stage recognition (Parvinen and Vanha-Perttula, 1972) and squash preparation techniques (Parvinen and Hecht, 1981) to study the regulation of male germ cell differentiation. By using transgenic mice expressing enhanced-(E)GFP as a marker we have studied the expression and hormonal regulation of beta-actin and acrosin proteins in the developmentally different living male germ cells. Beta-actin was demonstrated in all male germ cells, whereas acrosin was expressed only in late meiotic and in postmeiotic cells. Follicle stimulating hormone stimulated b-actin-EGFP expression at stages I-VI and enhanced the formation of microtubules in spermatids and this way reduced the size of the acrosomic system. When EGFP expressing spermatogonial stem cells were transplanted into infertile mouse testis differentiation and the synchronized development of male germ cells could be observed during six months observation time. Each colony developed independently and maintained typical stage-dependent cell associations. Furthermore, if more than two colonies were fused, each of them was adjusted to one stage and synchronized. By studying living spermatids we were able to demonstrate novel functions for Golgi complex and chromatoid body in material sharing between neighbor spermatids. Immunosytochemical analyses revealed a transport of haploid cell specific proteins in spermatids (TRA54 and Shippo1) and through the intercellular bridges (TRA54). Cytoskeleton inhibitor (nocodazole) demonstrated the importance of microtubules in material sharing between spermatids and in preserving the integrity of the chromatoid body. Golgi complex inhibitor, brefeldin A, revealed the great importance of Golgi complex i) in acrosomic system formation ii) TRA54 translation and in iii) granule trafficking between spermatids.

Jatkuvatoimisen sellukeittimen säätöjen suorituskyvyn analysointi

Työssä tarkastellaan yleisiä menetelmiä säätöpiirien suorituskyvyn analysointiin ja sovelletaan niitä jatkuvatoimisen sellukeittimen säätöihin. Esitellyt menetelmät tarjoavat keinoja myös huonon säätötuloksen syyn selvittämiseen ja vinkkejä paremman suorituskyvyn saavuttamiseksi. Analyysissä edettiin top-down periaatteen mukaisesti lähtien liikkeelle keittimen tärkeimmästä säädöstä eli kappaluvun säädöstä. Sitten etsittiin tähän vaikuttavia tekijöitä mitatuista suureista. Seuraavaksi arvioitiin tärkeimmäksi katsotun tekijän (hakepinnankorkeus) säädön suorituskyky, jossa havaittiin parannettavaa. Lopuksi hakepinnankorkeuden säädön viritystämuutettiin ja tehtiin identifiointikoe säätörakenteen uudelleen järjestelyä varten.