The accuracy of present wave forecasting methods : with reference to problems in beach erosion on the New Jersey and Long Island coasts /

Mode of access: Internet.

Analysis of moving fetches for wave forecasting /

Mode of access: Internet.

Wave forecasting relationships for the Gulf of Mexico /

Mode of access: Internet.

A case study of the 9 August 1988 South Atlantic storm: Numerical simulations of the wave activity

During 9-11 August 1988, a cyclone developed over Uruguay in the lee of the Andes Mountains and moved over the South Atlantic Ocean, where it redeveloped into an intense storm. This storm was responsible for unusual wave activity along the Brazilian shoreline from 22° to 32°S. The Brazilian news media reported the loss of at least one life, waves of 3 m and higher, and the disappearance of a drainage pipe, which weighed 8000 kg, off the shores of Rio de Janeiro. In this paper, the evolution of this intense storm and the associated ocean wave response is studied through European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts analyses, a hydrostatic limited-area meteorological model, and a second-generation prognostic wave model. The atmospheric model results indicated the presence of a long-lived and large fetch with surface wind velocities higher than 12 m s -1 directed toward the coast. Some areas with velocities of 20 m s -1 were embedded in the fetch. The wave model forced by this wind field was able to simulate waves with a significant height of 8 m far from the coast and about 4 m in regions very close to the Brazilian coast in agreement with the occurrence reported at Rio de Janeiro. The swell propagation toward the coast of Rio de Janeiro was obstructed by a northeastward 10-m wind during the first 24-h period of the model's integration. During the second 24-h period, the fetch was still large and strong, but the obstacle was removed by a counterclockwise rotation of wind direction favoring the swell and windsea propagation toward the Rio de Janeiro coast.

Study of a wind-wave numerical model and its integration with ocean and oil-spill numerical models

The ability to represent the transport and fate of an oil slick at the sea surface is a formidable task. By using an accurate numerical representation of oil evolution and movement in seawater, the possibility to asses and reduce the oil-spill pollution risk can be greatly improved. The blowing of the wind on the sea surface generates ocean waves, which give rise to transport of pollutants by wave-induced velocities that are known as Stokes’ Drift velocities. The Stokes’ Drift transport associated to a random gravity wave field is a function of the wave Energy Spectra that statistically fully describe it and that can be provided by a wave numerical model. Therefore, in order to perform an accurate numerical simulation of the oil motion in seawater, a coupling of the oil-spill model with a wave forecasting model is needed. In this Thesis work, the coupling of the MEDSLIK-II oil-spill numerical model with the SWAN wind-wave numerical model has been performed and tested. In order to improve the knowledge of the wind-wave model and its numerical performances, a preliminary sensitivity study to different SWAN model configuration has been carried out. The SWAN model results have been compared with the ISPRA directional buoys located at Venezia, Ancona and Monopoli and the best model settings have been detected. Then, high resolution currents provided by a relocatable model (SURF) have been used to force both the wave and the oil-spill models and its coupling with the SWAN model has been tested. The trajectories of four drifters have been simulated by using JONSWAP parametric spectra or SWAN directional-frequency energy output spectra and results have been compared with the real paths traveled by the drifters.

Towards a hydrodynamic operational model of the Algarve coast and St. Vincent Cape

This study attempts to implement a hydrodynamic operational model which can ultimately be used for projecting oil spill dispersal patterns and also sewage, pollution and can also be used in wave forecasting. A two layer nested model was created using MOHID Water, which is powerful ocean modelling software. The first layer (father) is used to impose the boundary conditions for the second layer (son). This was repeated for two different wind dominant regimes, Easterly and Westerly winds respectively. A qualitative comparison was done between measured tidal data and the tidal output. Sea surface temperature was also qualitatively compared with the model’s results. The results from both simulations were analysed and compared to historical literature. The comparison was done at the surface layer, 100 metre depth and at 800m depth. In the surface layer the first simulation generated an upwelling event near Cape St. Vincent and within the Algarve. The second simulation generated a non-upwelling event within which the surface was flow reversed and the warm water mass was along the Algarve coastline and evening turning clockwise around Cape St. Vincent. At the 100 metre depth for both simulations, velocity vortexes were observed near Cape St. Vincent travelling northerly and southerly at various instances. At 800metre depth a strong oceanic flow was observed moving north westerly along the continental shelf.

Um sistema de previsão de tempo e de ondas oceânicas para o Atlântico Sul

Um sistema de previsão numérica de tempo e de ondas oceânicas (SPTO) que possa ser operacionalizado no Atlântico Sul é proposto. O SPTO é composto por um modelo atmosférico de área limitada (MAL) e um modelo de ondas de superfície do oceano geradas pelo vento, aplicado em duas versões: uma de malha grossa (MPOMG) e outra de malha fina (MPOMF). O MPOMG abrange uma área de 10(6) km², e tem como finalidade gerar e propagar ondas em regiões remotas à costa brasileira. O MPOMF é aplicado em um domínio 10(4) km² com alta resolução, incorporando irregularidades batimétricas e com as condições iniciais e de fronteiras fomecidas pelo MPOMG. Os modelos utilizam dados de vento à 10 m acima da superfície do oceano. Os arquivos de vento, contendo a evolução espacial e temporais são gerados pelo MAL. Um exemplo de um evento real ocorrido no período de 9 a 11 de agosto de 1988 é apresentado utilizando o acoplamento proposto.

Predicting the speed of a Wave Glider autonomous surface vehicle from wave model data

A key component of robotic path planning is ensuring that one can reliably navigate a vehicle to a desired location. In addition, when the features of interest are dynamic and move with oceanic currents, vehicle speed plays an important role in the planning exercise to ensure that vehicles are in the right place at the right time. Aquatic robot design is moving towards utilizing the environment for propulsion rather than traditional motors and propellers. These new vehicles are able to realize significantly increased endurance, however the mission planning problem, in turn, becomes more difficult as the vehicle velocity is not directly controllable. In this paper, we examine Gaussian process models applied to existing wave model data to predict the behavior, i.e., velocity, of a Wave Glider Autonomous Surface Vehicle. Using training data from an on-board sensor and forecasting with the WAVEWATCH III model, our probabilistic regression models created an effective method for forecasting WG velocity.

Wave forecasts associated with hurricane landfalls in the vicinity of Cape Lookout, North Carolina

Hurricanes can cause extensive damage to the coastline and coastal communities due to wind-generated waves and storm surge. While extensive modeling efforts have been conducted regarding storm surge, there is far less information about the effects of waves on these communities and ecosystems as storms make landfall. This report describes a preliminary use of NCCOS’ WEMo (Wave Exposure Model; Fonseca and Malhotra 2010) to compute the wind wave exposure within an area of approximately 25 miles radius from Beaufort, North Carolina for estuarine waters encompassing Bogue Sound, Back Sound and Core Sound during three hurricane landfall scenarios. The wind wave heights and energy of a site was a computation based on wind speed, direction, fetch and local bathymetry. We used our local area (Beaufort, North Carolina) as a test bed for this product because it is frequently impacted by hurricanes and we had confidence in the bathymetry data. Our test bed conditions were based on two recent Hurricanes that strongly affected this area. First, we used hurricane Isabel which made landfall near Beaufort in September 2003. Two hurricane simulations were run first by passing hurricane Isabel along its actual path (east of Beaufort) and second by passing the same storm to the west of Beaufort to show the potential effect of the reversed wind field. We then simulated impacts by a hurricane (Ophelia) with a different landfall track, which occurred in September of 2005. The simulations produced a geographic description of wave heights revealing the changing wind and wave exposure of the region as a consequence of landfall location and storm intensity. This highly conservative simulation (water levels were that of low tide) revealed that many inhabited and developed shorelines would receive wind waves for prolonged periods of time at heights far above that found during even the top few percent of non-hurricane events. The simulations also provided a sense for how rapidly conditions could transition from moderate to highly threatening; wave heights were shown to far exceed normal conditions often long before the main body of the storm arrived and importantly, at many locations that could impede and endanger late-fleeing vessels seeking safe harbor. When joined with other factors, such as storm surge and event duration, we anticipate that the WEMo forecasting tool will have significant use by local emergency agencies and the public to anticipate the relative exposure of their property arising as a function of storm location and may also be used by resource managers to examine the effects of storms in a quantitative fashion on local living marine resources.

Forecasting invasions: resource use by mussels informs invasion patterns along the South African coast

Invasive species are often more able to rapidly and efficiently utilise resources than natives, and comparing per capita resource use at different resource densities among invaders and trophically analogous natives could allow for reliable predictions of invasiveness. In South Africa, invasion by the Mediterranean mussel Mytilus galloprovincialis has transformed wave-exposed shores, negatively affecting native mussel species. Currently, South Africa is experiencing a second mussel invasion with the recent detection of the South American Semimytilus algosus. We tested per capita uptake of an algal resource by invading M. galloprovincialis, S. algosus, and the native Aulacomya atra at different algal concentrations and temperatures, representing the west and south coasts of South Africa, to examine whether their per capita resource use could be a predictor of their spread and subsequent invasiveness. Regardless of temperature, M. galloprovincialis was the most efficient consumer, significantly reducing algal cells compared to the other species when the resource was presented in both low and high starting densities. Furthermore, these findings aligned with a greater biomass of M. galloprovincialis on the shore in comparison with the other species. Resource use by the new invader S. algosus was dependent on the density of resource and, although this species was efficient at low algal concentrations at cooler temperatures, this pattern broke down at higher algal densities. This was once more reflected in lower biomass in surveys of this species along the cool west coast. We therefore forecast that S. algosus will be become established along the south coast; however, we also predict that M. galloprovincialis will maintain dominance on these shores.

High Resolution Dynamics Limb Sounder measurements of gravity wave activity in the 2006 Arctic stratosphere

Observations from the High Resolution Dynamics Limb Sounder (HIRDLS) instrument on NASA's Aura satellite are used to quantify gravity wave momentum fluxes in the middle atmosphere. The period around the 2006 Arctic sudden stratospheric warming (SSW) is investigated, during which a substantial elevation of the stratopause occurred. Analysis of the HIRDLS results, together with analysis of European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasting zonal winds, provide direct evidence of wind filtering of the gravity wave spectrum during this period. This confirms previous hypotheses from model studies and further contributes to our understanding of the effects of gravity wave driving on the winter polar stratopause.

An improvement in clear-air turbulence forecasting based on spontaneous imbalance theory: the ULTURB algorithm

Recent research has shown that Lighthill–Ford spontaneous gravity wave generation theory, when applied to numerical model data, can help predict areas of clear-air turbulence. It is hypothesized that this is the case because spontaneously generated atmospheric gravity waves may initiate turbulence by locally modifying the stability and wind shear. As an improvement on the original research, this paper describes the creation of an ‘operational’ algorithm (ULTURB) with three modifications to the original method: (1) extending the altitude range for which the method is effective downward to the top of the boundary layer, (2) adding turbulent kinetic energy production from the environment to the locally produced turbulent kinetic energy production, and, (3) transforming turbulent kinetic energy dissipation to eddy dissipation rate, the turbulence metric becoming the worldwide ‘standard’. In a comparison of ULTURB with the original method and with the Graphical Turbulence Guidance second version (GTG2) automated procedure for forecasting mid- and upper-level aircraft turbulence ULTURB performed better for all turbulence intensities. Since ULTURB, unlike GTG2, is founded on a self-consistent dynamical theory, it may offer forecasters better insight into the causes of the clear-air turbulence and may ultimately enhance its predictability.

Runge-Kutta IMEX schemes for the Horizontally Explicit/Vertically Implicit (HEVI) solution of wave equations

Many operational weather forecasting centres use semi-implicit time-stepping schemes because of their good efficiency. However, as computers become ever more parallel, horizontally explicit solutions of the equations of atmospheric motion might become an attractive alternative due to the additional inter-processor communication of implicit methods. Implicit and explicit (IMEX) time-stepping schemes have long been combined in models of the atmosphere using semi-implicit, split-explicit or HEVI splitting. However, most studies of the accuracy and stability of IMEX schemes have been limited to the parabolic case of advection–diffusion equations. We demonstrate how a number of Runge–Kutta IMEX schemes can be used to solve hyperbolic wave equations either semi-implicitly or HEVI. A new form of HEVI splitting is proposed, UfPreb, which dramatically improves accuracy and stability of simulations of gravity waves in stratified flow. As a consequence it is found that there are HEVI schemes that do not lose accuracy in comparison to semi-implicit ones. The stability limits of a number of variations of trapezoidal implicit and some Runge–Kutta IMEX schemes are found and the schemes are tested on two vertical slice cases using the compressible Boussinesq equations split into various combinations of implicit and explicit terms. Some of the Runge–Kutta schemes are found to be beneficial over trapezoidal, especially since they damp high frequencies without dropping to first-order accuracy. We test schemes that are not formally accurate for stiff systems but in stiff limits (nearly incompressible) and find that they can perform well. The scheme ARK2(2,3,2) performs the best in the tests.

Global forecasting of thermal health hazards: the skill of probabilistic predictions of the Universal Thermal Climate Index (UTCI)

Although over a hundred thermal indices can be used for assessing thermal health hazards, many ignore the human heat budget, physiology and clothing. The Universal Thermal Climate Index (UTCI) addresses these shortcomings by using an advanced thermo-physiological model. This paper assesses the potential of using the UTCI for forecasting thermal health hazards. Traditionally, such hazard forecasting has had two further limitations: it has been narrowly focused on a particular region or nation and has relied on the use of single ‘deterministic’ forecasts. Here, the UTCI is computed on a global scale,which is essential for international health-hazard warnings and disaster preparedness, and it is provided as a probabilistic forecast. It is shown that probabilistic UTCI forecasts are superior in skill to deterministic forecasts and that despite global variations, the UTCI forecast is skilful for lead times up to 10 days. The paper also demonstrates the utility of probabilistic UTCI forecasts on the example of the 2010 heat wave in Russia.