BeachWin: modelling groundwater effects on swash sediment transport and beach profile changes

Field and laboratory observations have shown that a relatively low beach groundwater table enhances beach accretion. These observations have led to the beach dewatering technique (artificially lowering the beach water table) for combating beach erosion. Here we present a process-based numerical model that simulates the interacting wave motion on the beach. coastal groundwater flow, swash sediment transport and beach profile changes. Results of model simulations demonstrate that the model replicates accretionary effects of a low beach water table on beach profile changes and has the potential to become a tool for assessing the effectiveness of beach dewatering systems. (C) 2002 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

New methodology for describing the equilibrium beach profile applied to the Valencia's beaches

Mathematical models used for the understanding of coastal seabed morphology play a key role in beach nourishment projects. These projects have become the fundamental strategy for coastal maintenance during the last few years. Accordingly, the accuracy of these models is vital to optimize the costs of coastal regeneration projects. Planning of such interventions requires methodologies that do not generate uncertainties in their interpretation. A study and comparison of mathematical simulation models of the coastline is carried out in this paper, as well as elements that are part of the model that are a source of uncertainty. The equilibrium profile (EP) and the offshore limit corresponding to the depth of closure (DoC) have been analyzed taking into account different timescale ranges. The results have thus been compared using data sets from three different periods which are identified as present, past and future. Accuracy in data collection for the beach profiles and the definition of the median grain size calculation using collected samples are the two main factors that have been taken into account in this paper. These data can generate high uncertainties and can produce a lack of accuracy in nourishment projects. Together they can generate excessive costs due to possible excess or shortage of sand used for the nourishment. The main goal of this paper is the development of a new methodology to increase the accuracy of the existing equilibrium beach profile models, providing an improvement to the inputs used in such models and in the fitting of the formulae used to obtain seabed shape. This new methodology has been applied and tested on Valencia's beaches.

Beach profile changes : east coast of Lake Michigan, 1970-72 /

"October 1975."

Beach Profile Analysis System (BPAS) /

"June 1982."

Calculating a yearly limit depth to the active beach profile /

Issued September 1977.

Mine waste beach profile and flow resistance equations

Four mine waste beach longitudinal profile equations are compared theoretically and in statistical analyses of profile data from 64 field and laboratory beaches formed by mine tailings, co-disposed coal mine wastes, and sand. All four equations fit the profile data well. The best performing equation both accounts for particle sorting and satisfies hydraulic constraints, and the combination of assumptions underlying it is considered to best represent the processes occurring on mine waste beaches. Combining these assumptions with the Lacey normal equation leads to a variant of the Manning resistance equation. Features that it is desirable to incorporate in theoretical and numerical models of mine waste beaches are listed.

Effect of sea water level rise on sandy beach profile

Study of batch profile evolution and scouring effect due to the wave and current impacts in the coastal zone has been one of the most important issues in coastal engineering research projects during the past decades .to construct the coastal protective structures such piers, breakwaters and seawalls, it is necessary to estimate the scouring depth and bed level changes in the vicinity of such structures. Furthermore, the time - dependent changes in the equilibrium profile of the surf zone can be of great importance in designing coastal structures. Because of the importance of coastal engineering study in Iran due to the existence of two important coastal area located in the north and south parts of the country, and due to the lack of classified data in this respect (particularly the effect of sea level rise on coastal morphology) in the present study, based on the available data of Bandar Anzali region, an analysis of the coastal zone behavior is made. Bed level elevations are measured and compared with the theoretical equilibrium profile. It is shown that the behavior of the coastal zone in the region is consistent with the dean (equilibrium profile . In the next stage, following extensive investigations, the bed level changes due to a rise in sea level at different locations in the surf zone are estimated. Finally based on the results obtained for profile evolution due to sea level rise, the conclusion is made for design of coastal structures located in the study area. The results obtained from the present study indicate that the sea level rise can have a significant effect on beach profile and resulting erosion in the study area. The results are graphically presented with can be used for design purposes and establishing a data base for the coastal zone in the study region. It is believed that the present work can be regarded as a contribution to the existing knowledge of coast process in the study area and referred to as a basis for the future coastal research projects.

Beach changes at Long Beach Island, New Jersey, 1962-73 /

Beach profile line data collected from 32 profile sites along Long Beach Island, New Jersey. A total of 2,158 profile line surveys were examined, using empirical eigenfunction analysis and other measures of beach variability. Most profile lines have shown an accretionary trend since 1962 with rates between 2.3 and 0.24 meter per year in spite of erosion estimates due to sea level rise on the order of 0.68 meter per year. A great deal of variability in profile line change takes place along the beach, increasing from north to south, due to the location of profile lines relative to structures and offshore linear shoals. Detailed closely spaced profile lines taken over a year in a groin field near the north end of the island indicate littoral transport directions shift from north to south. Evidence of a littoral transport node near the north end of the groin field has been found. Net transport of the node is toward the south, but the rate could not be established due to lack of adequate wave data. Profile line variability within groin cells shows that single profile lines are not sufficient to determine the net change within a cell. The design of future beach monitoring studies should consider coastal structures, offshore bathymetry, the method of analysis, and the scales of processes under study. A coastal storm in November 1968 moved the MSL back as much as 22 meters; however, the beach recovered without artificial measures. The offshore bathymetry shows a series of shoreface-connected linear shoals at several locations along the island. Limited data show that these have remained stable and that most beach variability takes place in water shallower than 3 meters.

Beach changes at Holden Beach, North Carolina, 1970-74 /

Beach profile lines at 21 near-evenly spaced intervals along Holden Beach, North Carolina, between Lockwoods Folly and Shallotte Inlets, were measured from November 1970 to December 1974. These have been analyzed to determine the spatial and temporal variabilities on long-term, seasonal, and short-term scales. Profile lines near the inlets showed the greatest variability in mean sea level (MSL) position, above MSL volume, foreshore slope, and profile envelope. This variability near Lockwoods Folly Inlet was partly enhanced by artificial nourishment at profile line 2. Temporary, low-cost shore protection devices (e.g., sandbag groins) were constructed near that inlet during part of the study. No other modifications or activities that affected beach processes were known to occur during the study period. The central part of Holden Beach was studied separately because of the high variability of the inlet sections at either end of the island. Foreshore slopes along this reach increased from an average of 1:30 at the east end to 1:17 at the west. A seasonal change in above MSL volume indicates loss of sand during autumn and winter, and gain during spring and summer. Changes in MSL shoreline intercept and above MSL volume were highly variable during the study.

Shoreline change and storm-induced beach erosion modeling : a collection of seven papers /

Cover title.

Effect of cold fronts on the benthic macrofauna of exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Caracterização morfodinâmica do litoral Norte Fluminense, RJ, Brasil

A morfologia das praias é reflexo da ação hidrodinfunica com o tipo de sedimento disponível. Esta interação se dá a partir da base de ação das ondas, tornando-se mais efetiva na zona de arrebentação onde a energia é dissipada, originando na zona de surfe que se estende em direção à linha de costa até Q limite do espraiamento na face de praia. O objetivo deste trabalho é apresentar as características morfodinâmicas do litoral NE do Estado do Rio de Janeiro, baseando-se na análise da variação espaço Hemporal de perfis de praia, na morfologia da plataforma continental e em fotos aéreas. Os perfis de praia foram levantados durante cinco anos pela PETROBRÁS S/A, em oito estações ao longo do litoral. O comportamento morfodinâmico distinto de setores do litoral estudado é função do padrão de ondas e direção da linha de costa, morfologia da plataforma interna controlando a extensão da zona de surfe e o número de zonas de arrebentação, características dos sedimentos e gradiente da face de praia. Foram reconhecidos quatro compartimentos morfodinâmicos distintos, com base na morfologia dos perfis praiais e plataforma interna, no índice de mobilidade da linha de praia, granulometria x gradiente da face de praia e o parâmetro Q. Os quatro compartimentos são: Atafona/Foz do Rio Paraíba do Sul - estágio morfodinâmico intermediário a dissipativo, com o maior índice de mobilidade e elevada taxa de erosão; Sul de Atafona-Cabo de São Tomé - estágio intermediário a refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé - estágio refletivo a intermediário com alto índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé-Cabiúnas - estágio refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade.