908 resultados para beach morphodynamics


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Modification showed by intertidal macrofaunal communities between two nearby sites that change from a wave to a tide dominated beach environment, was analyzed on the present study. At each site, eleven intertidal sampling stations were distributed along a transect, from the drift line to the spring low tide water level. Four macrofaunal samples one meter long-shore spaced were collected at, each station with an iron core of 0.05 m(2) surface area, taken to a depth of 20 cm. Major,differences on sediments between sites were the offshore decrease of mean particle size diameter and increase of kurtosis and water content at the tide dominated site. KIDS ordination showed major similarities between the lowest stations of this site, that represents the dissipative low tide-terrace portion of the beach. Two lower station of the wave dominated site presented similarities with this group. The other stations of the tide-dominated site, that represents the reflective high tide beach portion, grouped distant from the former. (canonical Correspondence Analysis (CCA) showed a similar spatial distribution of stations, suggesting the importance of environmental factors on the explanation of species distribution patterns. Sediment water content and water table depth, with the highest inertia value, seems to be the principal physical factor. Increase on water content affects the macrofaunal distribution by the expansion of typical infralitoral species, as was the case of Bathyporeiapus ruffoi, on the dissipative low tide terrace beach portion. A disrupted distribution with the lost of a gradate zonation along a physical gradient is one of the major modification presented by macrobenthic communities on the transition from a wave to a tide dominated beach environment.

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This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and Sao Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay-headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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A morfologia das praias é reflexo da ação hidrodinfunica com o tipo de sedimento disponível. Esta interação se dá a partir da base de ação das ondas, tornando-se mais efetiva na zona de arrebentação onde a energia é dissipada, originando na zona de surfe que se estende em direção à linha de costa até Q limite do espraiamento na face de praia. O objetivo deste trabalho é apresentar as características morfodinâmicas do litoral NE do Estado do Rio de Janeiro, baseando-se na análise da variação espaço Hemporal de perfis de praia, na morfologia da plataforma continental e em fotos aéreas. Os perfis de praia foram levantados durante cinco anos pela PETROBRÁS S/A, em oito estações ao longo do litoral. O comportamento morfodinâmico distinto de setores do litoral estudado é função do padrão de ondas e direção da linha de costa, morfologia da plataforma interna controlando a extensão da zona de surfe e o número de zonas de arrebentação, características dos sedimentos e gradiente da face de praia. Foram reconhecidos quatro compartimentos morfodinâmicos distintos, com base na morfologia dos perfis praiais e plataforma interna, no índice de mobilidade da linha de praia, granulometria x gradiente da face de praia e o parâmetro Q. Os quatro compartimentos são: Atafona/Foz do Rio Paraíba do Sul - estágio morfodinâmico intermediário a dissipativo, com o maior índice de mobilidade e elevada taxa de erosão; Sul de Atafona-Cabo de São Tomé - estágio intermediário a refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé - estágio refletivo a intermediário com alto índice de mobilidade da praia; Cabo de São Tomé-Cabiúnas - estágio refletivo com baixo índice de mobilidade.

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This paper presents a GIS-based multicriteria flood risk assessment and mapping approach applied to coastal drainage basins where hydrological data are not available. It involves risk to different types of possible processes: coastal inundation (storm surge), river, estuarine and flash flood, either at urban or natural areas, and fords. Based on the causes of these processes, several environmental indicators were taken to build-up the risk assessment. Geoindicators include geological-geomorphologic proprieties of Quaternary sedimentary units, water table, drainage basin morphometry, coastal dynamics, beach morphodynamics and microclimatic characteristics. Bioindicators involve coastal plain and low slope native vegetation categories and two alteration states. Anthropogenic indicators encompass land use categories properties such as: type, occupation density, urban structure type and occupation consolidation degree. The selected indicators were stored within an expert Geoenvironmental Information System developed for the State of Sao Paulo Coastal Zone (SIIGAL), which attributes were mathematically classified through deterministic approaches, in order to estimate natural susceptibilities (Sn), human-induced susceptibilities (Sa), return period of rain events (Ri), potential damages (Dp) and the risk classification (R), according to the equation R=(Sn.Sa.Ri).Dp. Thematic maps were automatically processed within the SIIGAL, in which automata cells (""geoenvironmental management units"") aggregating geological-geomorphologic and land use/native vegetation categories were the units of classification. The method has been applied to the Northern Littoral of the State of Sao Paulo (Brazil) in 32 small drainage basins, demonstrating to be very useful for coastal zone public politics, civil defense programs and flood management.

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The estuaries are important investigation zones of the actual morphodynamic and of depositional facies of recent geological history. They are constituted in important receptor means of the coastal area sediments, where the evolutionary processes occur quickly. They are also attractive means for the development of anthropic activities, which in a disordered way interfere in the active processes in the sedimentary balance of the coastal areas. Among the human interventions, the alterations of the depositional environment of mangroves in areas of tropical estuary is deserving relevance, whose implications for the environment estuarine and the coastal adjacent, they are still far to be known. Due to the interest of the sedimentologic component in the comprehension of the processes linked to the evolution of the environments estuarine and coastal adjacent, this work, aimed at the understanding of the morphodynamic coastal phenomena that comprise the region of estuarine influence of the River Curimataú / RN. It was also evaluated in the morphodynamic context the implications due to alterations of the depositional environment of mangrove by anthropic activity. The Curimataú Estuary, located in the south portion of the oriental coast of Rio Grande do Norte, in the last decades has been objective of the overwhelming occupation of the shrimp farm in areas of mangroves, which were implanted with perspectives of development in a short to medium period. On the other hand, the estuary and its region of coastal influence lacks enough information to subsidize the planning and reorganization more effective of the surrounding activities. Thus, it was intended with this work to give a contribution target tothe maintainable use of the coastal resources of this region. A series of studies using data of orbital and acoustic remote sensing, as of sediments sampling, were executed in the gutter of the estuary. The obtained results starting from the interpretation of bathymetric maps, echo sounder graphics and of distribution of sediments made possible the location of the estuary based in morpho-sedimentar criteria. The estuarine tidal flat was dissected in environments of intertidal mangroves, supratidal mangroves and apicuns with base in the integration of data of sensor optic and of radar following by the field control. The adjacent coast that is influenced by the Curimataú estuary, was segmented according to their geomorphologic characteristics, where each segment had a point of observation of the beach morphodynamic, during the period from january/2001 to february/2002. Once every month, beaches profiles, collections of sediments in the beach zones, as measurement of hydrodynamic parameters were executed. The results of the observations of the tidal environment showed that the area of estuarine influence of the Curimataú begins to suffer negative sedimentary taxes, where in some beaches, the erosive processes are already observed. The granulometric characteristics of the beach sediments start to tend for the increase of thin sand in the erosive periods. The destruction of the depositional environments of mangroves of the Curimataú estuary, to the construction of shrimp farms, can be providing the diminution of the tidal prism of the estuary, enlarging the effects of the local increasing of the sea level, through the smaller supplying of sediments to the adjacent coast. Besides this, it was verified the possibility of the sanding of the tidal channel in the margins of the destroyed areas of mangroves, where very high taxes of sedimentation of thin materials were estimated in case of these areas were preserve

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The research area is located on the county of Tibau do Sul, in the east coast of Rio Grande do Norte State, about 80km south of the capital Natal. The tourism represents the main income activity and Pipa beach is the most visited beach in the city, annually receives a large influx of domestic and foreign tourists. Some recent studies have reported the occurrence of coastal erosion in this littoral, being the main objective of the research, analyze the existing coastal erosion, through two methodologies, the geoenvironmental mapping and beach morphodynamics. The geoenvironmental mapping was done from oblique aerial photographs and field visits, which sought to carry out first the geomorphological mapping, with the purpose of analyzing features that suggest susceptible areas to erosion, as areas without protection of natural dunes, marine terraces, or sandstones (beach-rocks and ferruginous sandstones), areas with the presence of gullies and stretches where the sea-cliffs were in direct contact with the action of the sea, representing the beginning of the beach profile. In the morphodynamic study sought to carry out the survey of the physical and morphological characteristics, the analysis of sediment grain of the beaches and finally the analysis of the morphodynamic parameters to generate a table of risk to erosion by sector of the beach. The morphodynamic parameters were defined by the methodology proposed by Short (2006), in which considers different patterns of dynamism on beaches with characteristics favorable and unfavorable to erosive profiles. The maps indicated different levels of risk to the segments of the beaches analyzed, suggesting risk to erosion low and low to moderate only in areas north and northwest of the beaches of Madeiro and Curral, and levels of moderate and high risk sectors in the south and southeast of these beaches . The beach of Pipa showed moderate levels of risk and moderate to high at the ends and high risk to erosion in the central portion. The study of the coastal environment, its morphological evolution, and areas with problems of erosion, are of fundamental importance to assist coastal management policies, giving grants for planning activities undertaken in these regions

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Os aspectos morfodinâmicos relacionados à erosão ou acresção da linha de costa são alguns dos assuntos analisados na gestão das zonas costeiras que vêem sendo tratada em todo mundo no sentido de monitorar e proteger essas zonas. Esta tese objetiva analisar o comportamento da morfodinâmica costeira de Salinópolis, relacionando-o ao uso da orla oceânica. A área de estudo foi compartimentada em três setores: Oeste (praias da Corvina e do Maçarico), Central (praia do Farol Velho) e Leste (praia do Atalaia). A metodologia consistiu na: (a) aquisição e tratamento de imagens multitemporais (1988-2001-2013) do satélite Landsat 5 TM, 7 ETM e 8 OLI; (b) aplicação de entrevistas/questionários com banhistas, (c) aquisição de dados de campo durante as estações chuvosa (26, 27, 28/04/2013) e menos chuvosa (04, 05, 06/10/2013); e (d) análise laboratorial para o tratamento dos dados adquiridos em campo (topografia das praias estudadas, amostragem de sedimentos superficiais das mesmas e com o uso de armadilhas, e medições oceanográficas de ondas, marés, correntes e turbidez). Foram feitas as representações gráficas dos perfis topográficos das praias, calculados os parâmetros estatísticos granulométricos de Folk & Ward (1957), as taxas do transporte sedimentar nas praias e os parâmetros morfométricos de Short & Hesp (1982), estes últimos foram calculados com o intuito de relacioná-los aos estados morfodinâmicos de praias propostos por Wright & Short (1984) e Masselink & Short (1993). Para a classificação da costa oceânica de Salinópolis em termos de uso e ocupação foi utilizado o decreto nº 5.300 de 7 de dezembro de 2004. A partir das pesquisas sobre a urbanização na costa e das obras situadas nos ambientes costeiros foi utilizada uma matriz proposta por Farinaccio & Tessler (2010) que lista uma série de impactos ambientais, e o quadro de geoindicadores do comportamento da linha de costa proposto por Bush et al. (1999), para a identificação de locais com vulnerabilidade à erosão ou acresção. Para as condições oceanográficas em cada praia e periculosidade ao banho nas mesmas, foram integralizados os dados de ondas, de correntes, de morfodinâmica praial e questionários aplicados com banhistas. Atualmente, a orla oceânica de Salinópolis possui diferentes características quanto à utilização e conservação, abrangendo desde a tipologia de orlas naturais (Classe A) até orlas com urbanização consolidada (Classe C). A primeira ocorre nos extremos da área de estudo e, a segunda, na região da sede municipal. Quatro tipos de praias foram identificados segundo a exposição marítima e o grau das condições oceanográficas: tipo 1 (Maçarico), tipo 2 (Corvina), tipo 3 (Farol Velho) e tipo 4 (Atalaia). O trecho de costa com maiores impactos ambientais e com elevada erosão costeira localiza-se na praia do Farol Velho. O grau de periculosidade ao banho foi de 4 (praia do Maçarico) a 7 (praia do Atalaia) – médio a alto grau de risco. As praias de Salinópolis apresentam declives suaves (< 1,5°), grandes variações na linha de costa entre as estações do ano (9,6 a 88, 4 m) e volume sedimentar variável dependendo do grau de exposição das praias ao oceano aberto. Predominou o estado morfodinâmico dissipativo (Ω>5,5) para estas praias, mas com ocorrência do estado de banco e calha longitudinais (4,7<Ω<5,5) no setor oeste. As macromarés na área de estudo apresentaram altura máxima de 5,3 m (Setor Central, durante a estação menos chuvosa) e mínima de 4 m no mesmo setor, durante a estação chuvosa. As correntes longitudinais foram mais intensas no setor leste (>0,45 m/s) durante as duas estaçoes do ano. As alturas de ondas foram também maiores no setor leste (máximo de 1,05 m durante a maré enchente na estação menos chuvosa) e os períodos de ondas foram mais curtos (<4,5 s) no setor oeste. A média granulométrica obtida dos sedimentos coletados na face praial apresentou escala mais freqüente entre 2,6 a 2,8 phi, indicando a predominância de areia fina. O grau de seleção predominante dos sedimentos foi de 0,2 a 0,5 phi (muito bem selecionados e bem selecionados), e da assimetria foi de positiva (0,10 a 0,30) e de aproximadamente simétrica (-0,10 a 0,10). O grau de curtose variou desde muito platicúrtica (<0,67) a muito leptocúrtica (1,50 a 3,00). Foram observados eventos de acresção sedimentar da estação chuvosa a menos chuvosa. De 22/07/1988 a 28/08/2013 (25 anos) também houve predomínio de acresção, onde o avanço médio linear da linha de costa foi de 190,26 m. O recuo médio linear obtido para toda área de estudo foi de -42,25 m. Áreas com maior erosão são pontuais: divisas das praias da Corvina e Maçarico, e Farol Velho e Atalaia. Os traps portáteis indicaram uma maior quantidade de sedimentos transportados longitudinalmente na estação menos chuvosa (Mín. 280 g/m3: enchente, setor oeste; Máx. 1098 g/m3: vazante, setor leste). Nos traps de espraiamento, o balanço entre a quantidade de sedimentos entrando e saindo nas praias foi menor no setor central (Mín. 80 g/m3: vazante, estação menos chuvosa; Máx. 690 g/m3: enchente, estação menos chuvosa). A circulação costeira sedimentar é proveniente, principalmente, do efeito das marés, com direção governada pela enchente e vazante dos rios que atravessam a costa. Os dados indicam o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos da ilha de Atalaia e rio Sampaio para o setor oeste e as margens das faixas praiais.

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Atoll islands are subject to a variety of processes that influence their geomorphological development. Analysis of historical shoreline changes using remotely sensed images has become an efficient approach to both quantify past changes and estimate future island response. However, the detection of long-term changes in beach width is challenging mainly for two reasons: first, data availability is limited for many remote Pacific islands. Second, beach environments are highly dynamic and strongly influenced by seasonal or episodic shoreline oscillations. Consequently, remote-sensing studies on beach morphodynamics of atoll islands deal with dynamic features covered by a low sampling frequency. Here we present a study of beach dynamics for nine islands on Takú Atoll, Papua New Guinea, over a seven-decade period. A considerable chronological gap between aerial photographs and satellite images was addressed by applying a new method that reweighted positions of the beach limit by identifying "outlier" shoreline positions. On top of natural beach variability observed along the reweighted beach sections, we found that one third of the analyzed islands show a statistically significant decrease in reweighted beach width since 1943. The total loss of beach area for all islands corresponds to 44% of the initial beach area. Variable shoreline trajectories suggest that changes in beach width on Takú Atoll are dependent on local control (that is, human activity and longshore sediment transport). Our results show that remote imagery with a low sampling frequency may be sufficient to characterize prominent morphological changes in planform beach configuration of reef islands.

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This study documents two different modes of berm development: (I) vertical growth at spring tides or following significant beach cut due to substantial swash overtopping, and (2) horizontal progradation at neap tides through the formation of a proto-berm located lower and further seaward of the principal berm. Concurrent high-frequency measurements of bed elevation and the associated wave runup distribution reveal the details of each of these berm growth modes. In mode I sediment is eroded from the inner surf and lower swash zone where swash interactions are prevalent. The net transport of this sediment is landward only, resulting in accretion onto the upper beach face and over the berm crest. The final outcome is a steepening of the beach face gradient, a change in the profile shape towards concave and rapid vertical and horizontal growth of the berm. In mode 2 sediment is eroded from the lower two-thirds of the active swash zone during the rising tide and is transported both landward and seaward. On the falling tide sediment is eroded from the inner surf and transported landward to backfill the zone eroded on the rising tide. The net result is relatively slow steepening of the beach face, a change of the profile shape towards convex, and horizontal progradation through the formation of a neap berm. The primary factor determining which mode of berm growth occurs is the presence or absence of swash overtopping at the time of sediment accumulation on the beach face. This depends on the current phase of the spring-neap tide cycle, the wave runup height (and indirectly offshore wave conditions) and the height of the pre-existing berm. A conceptual model for berm morphodynamics is presented, based on sediment transport shape functions measured during the two modes of berm growth. (c) 2006 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

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This paper presents the results of the planform stability classification for the headland-bay beaches of the State of Santa Catarina and of the Northern Coast of São Paulo, based on the application of the Parabolic Bay-Shape Equation (PBSE) to aerial images of the beaches, using the software MEPBAY®. For this purpose, georeferenced mosaics of the QuickBird2® satellite imagery (for the State of Santa Catarina) and vertical aerial photographs (for the northern coast of São Paulo State) were used. Headland-bay beach planform stability can be classified as: (1) in static equilibrium, (2) in dynamic equilibrium, (3) unstable or (4) in a state of natural beach reshaping. Static equilibrium beaches are the most frequent along the coast of the State of Santa Catarina and the Northern Shore of São Paulo, notably along the most rugged sectors of the coast and those with experiencing lower fluvial discharge. By comparison, dynamic equilibrium beaches occur primarily on the less rugged sectors of the coast and along regions with higher fluvial discharge. Beaches in a state of natural beach reshaping have only been found in SC, associated with stabilized estuarine inlets or port breakwaters. However, it is not possible to classify any of these beaches as unstable because only one set of images was used. No clear relation was observed between a beach's planform stability and other classification factors, such as morphodynamics or orientation.

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The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

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This study investigated the effect of environmental factors on the annual average zonation pattern of benthic macrofauna of sub-aerial profile of three exposed sandy beaches of Santa Catarina with different morphodynamic characteristics. Sampling was carried out between March 2000 and March 2001, with monthly frequency on reflective and dissipative morphodynamic extremes and bimonthly frequency on the intermediate state. Results showed that macrobenthic zonation presented marked differences across the morphodynamic spectrum. The main differences observed from reflective to dissipative conditions were: a) increase in the number of species in lower zones of the beach; b) expansion of zones characterized by high water content of sediment and c) increase in the overlapping of zones, mainly on lower levels of the beach. Canonical Correspondence Analysis related these differences to distinctive cross-shore gradients in sediment moisture levels, sediment reworking and mean grain size that exist across the morphodynamic spectrum, showing that it is important to analyze these environmental factors in studies conducted to investigate zonation on microtidal exposed sandy beaches.

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The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

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The reproductive biology and population dynamics of the cirolanid isopod Excirolana armata (Dana, 1853) were analysed through monthly samples from December 2003 to November 2005 on Una beach, Sao Paulo state (24 degrees S), in Southeastern Brazil. Sampling was performed along three transects established from the base of foredunes to the waterline. On Una beach, E. armata showed continuous reproduction with higher abundances of ovigerous females in winter and spring (July-November) with a higher peak of juveniles in spring (November 2004). The fecundity ranged from 2 to 18 eggs/embryos per female, depending on the female length. The incubation period was estimated as 2 months. The life span of males and females was nearly 1 year. The short life span and the high energetic expenditure inherent to reproduction with maternal care, probably kept females from producing more than one brood in their lifetime. When comparing the population of E. armata on Una beach (24 degrees S) with populations in Southern Brazil (32 degrees S), Uruguay (34 degrees S) and Argentina (36 degrees S), it was verified that several biological population traits (length of the smallest juvenile, length of the largest individual, length of the smallest and largest ovigerous females, range of fecundity and life span) tended to increase at higher latitudes, whereas other traits (instantaneous rate of mortality and the curvature parameter of von Bertalanffy growth function) tended to decrease. However, comparing E. armata on Una beach (24 degrees S) with a population situated at a close latitude (25 degrees S), unexpected differences in relation to population structure and to growth demonstrated and reinforced the importance of density-dependent factors over life history traits of E. armata on dissipative beaches.