Rubus rosaefolius Extract as a Natural Preservative Candidate in Topical Formulations

Even though the synthetic preservatives may offer a high antimicrobial efficacy, they are commonly related to adverse reactions and regarded as having potentially harmful effects caused by chronic consumption. The development of natural preservatives provides a way of reducing the amount of synthetic preservatives normally used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations. In addition, these agents have less toxic effects and represent a possible natural and safer alternative of the preservatives. The purpose of this research was to evaluate the Rubus rosaefolius Smith extract efficiency as a natural preservative in base formulations. Of the extract, 0.2% (w/w) was assayed for its effectiveness of antimicrobial protection in two different base formulations (emulsion and gel). The microbial challenge test was performed following the standard procedures proposed by The United States Pharmacopoeia 33nd, European Pharmacopoeia 6th, Japanese Pharmacopoeia 15th, and the Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrance Association using standardized microorganisms. The results demonstrated that R. rosaefolius extract at the studied concentration reduced the bacterial inocula, satisfying the criterion in all formulations, even though it was not able to present an effective preservative behavior against fungi. Thus, the investigation of new natural substances with preservative properties that could be applied in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products is relevant due to the possibility of substituting or decreasing the concentration of synthetic preservatives, providing a way for the development of safer formulas for the use of consumers.

Optimization of Pothomorphe umbellata (L.) Miquel topical formulations using experimental design

Pothomorphe umbellata is a native plant widely employed in the Brazilian popular medicine. This plant has been shown to exert a potent antioxidant activity on the skin and to delay the onset and reduce the incidence of UVB-induced skin damage and photoaging. The aim of this work was to optimize the appearance, the centrifuge stability and the permeation of emulsions containing R umbellata (0. 1% 4-nerolidylchatecol). Experimental design was used to study ternary mixtures models with constraints and graphical representation by phase diagrams. The constraints reduce the possible experimental domain, and for this reason, this methodology offers the maximum information while requiring the minimum investment. The results showed that the appearance follows a linear model, and that the aqueous phase was the principal factor affecting the appearance; the centrifuge stability parameter followed a mathernatic quadratic model and the interactions between factors produced the most stable emulsions; skin permeation was improved by the oil phase, following a linear model generated by data analysis. We propose as optimized P. umbellata formulation: 68.4% aqueous phase, 26.6% oil phase and 5.0% of self-emulsifying phase. This formulation displayed an acceptable compromise between factors and responses investigated. (c) 2007 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

In vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo efficacy of topical formulations containing vitamin C and its derivatives studied by non-invasive methods

Background/purpose: Vitamins C and its derivatives, mainly due to their antioxidant properties, are being used in cosmetic products to protect and to reduce the signs of ageing. However, there are no studies comparing the effects of vitamin C [ascorbic acid (AA)] and its derivatives, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (ATIP), when vehiculated in topical formulations, mainly using objective measurements, which are an important tool in clinical efficacy studies. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the in vitro antioxidant activity of AA and its derivatives, MAP and ATIP, as well as their in vivo efficacy on human skin, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Methods: The study of antioxidant activity in vitro was performed with an aqueous and a lipid system. The in vivo methodology consisted of the application of these formulations on human volunteers` forearm skin and the analysis of the skin conditions after 4-week period daily applications in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum moisture content and viscoelasticity using a Tewameter (R), Corneometer (R) and Cutometer (R), respectively. Results: In vitro experiments demonstrated that in an aqueous system, AA had the best antioxidant potential, and MAP was more effective than ATIP, whereas in the lipid system ATIP was more effective than MAP. In in vivo studies, all formulations enhanced stratum corneum moisture content after a 4-week period daily applications when compared with baseline values; however, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values. The formulations containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio, which suggested its action in the deeper layers of the skin. Conclusion: AA and its derivates presented an in vitro antioxidant activity but AA had the best antioxidant effect. In in vivo efficacy studies, only the formulation containing AA caused alterations in TEWL values and the formulation containing MAP caused alterations in the viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio. This way, vitamin C derivatives did not present the same effects of AA on human skin; however, MAP showed other significant effect-improving skin hydration, which is very important for the normal cutaneous metabolism and also to prevent skin alterations and early ageing.

Determination of rutin and narcissin in marigold extract and topical formulations by liquid chromatography: applicability in skin penetration studies

A chromatographic technique for determination of rutin and narcissin in marigold extract and topical formulations was developed and validated. The method shows linearity over the concentration range of 0.2 - 6.0 μg/mL of rutin (r = 0.9986) and 0.8 - 12.0 μg/mL of narcissin (r = 0.9951). The values obtained for precision and accuracy are in agreement with ICH guidelines. Both the formulation excipients and the porcine ear skin samples did not interfere with the flavonoids determination. The recovery of rutin and narcissin in skin samples added with marigold extract was 81.41% and 83.35%, respectively, which demonstrate the applicability of this method to perform skin penetration studies.

Assessment of the Mutagenic Activity of Extracts of Brazilian Propolis in Topical Pharmaceutical Formulations on Mammalian Cells In Vitro and In Vivo

Propolis possesses various biological activities such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, anesthetic and antioxidant properties. A topically applied product based on Brazilian green propolis was developed for the treatment of burns. For such substance to be used more safely in future clinical applications, the present study evaluated the mutagenic potential of topical formulations supplemented with green propolis extract (1.2, 2.4 and 3.6%) based on the analysis of chromosomal aberrations and of micronuclei. In the in vitro studies, 3-h pulse (G(1) phase of the cell cycle) and continuous (20 h) treatments were performed. In the in vivo assessment, the animals were injured on the back and then submitted to acute (24 h), subacute (7 days) and subchronic (30 days) treatments consisting of daily dermal applications of gels containing different concentrations of propolis. Similar frequencies of chromosomal aberrations were observed for cultures submitted to 3-h pulse and continuous treatment with gels containing different propolis concentrations and cultures not submitted to any treatment. However, in the continuous treatment cultures treated with the 3.6% propolis gel presented significantly lower mitotic indices than the negative control. No statistically significant differences in the frequencies of micronuclei were observed between animals treated with gels containing different concentrations of propolis and the negative control for the three treatment times. Under the present conditions, topical formulations containing different concentrations of green propolis used for the treatment of burns showed no mutagenic effect in either test system, but 3.6% propolis gel was found to be cytotoxic in the in vitro test.

Efficacy of Marigold Extract-Loaded Formulations Against UV-induced Oxidative Stress

The present study investigated the potential use of topical formulations containing marigold extract (ME) (Calendula officinalis extract) against ultraviolet (UV) B irradiation-induced skin damage. The physical and functional stabilities, as well as the skin penetration capacity, of the different topical formulations developed were evaluated. In addition, the in vivo capacity to prevent/treat the UVB irradiation-induced skin damage, in hairless mice, of the formulation with better skin penetration capacity was investigated. All of the formulations were physically and functionally stable. The gel formulation [Formulation 3 (F3)] was the most effective for the topical delivery of ME, which was detected as 0.21 mu g/cm(2) of narcissin and as 0.07 mu g/cm(2) of the rutin in the viable epidermis. This formulation was able to maintain glutathione reduced levels close to those of nonirradiated animals, but did not affect the gelatinase-9 and myeloperoxidase activities increased by exposure to UVB irradiation. In addition, F3 reduced the histological skin changes induced by UVB irradiation that appear as modifications of collagen fibrils. Therefore, the photoprotective effect in hairless mice achieved with the topical application of ME in gel formulation is most likely associated with a possible improvement in the collagen synthesis in the subepidermal connective tissue. (C) 2010 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association J Pharm Sci 100:2182-2193, 2011

Characterization of an antioxidant surfactant-free topical formulation containing Castanea sativa leaf extract

Context: Inclusion of antioxidants in topical formulations can contribute to minimize oxidative stress in the skin, which has been associated with photoaging, several dermatosis and cancer. Objective: A Castanea sativa leaf extract with established antioxidant activity was incorporated into a semisolid surfactant-free formulation. The objective of this study was to perform a comprehensive characterization of this formulation. Materials and methods: Physical, microbiological and functional stability were evaluated during 6 months storage at 20 °C and 40 °C. Microstructure elucidation (cryo-SEM), in vitro release and in vivo moisturizing effect (Corneometer® CM 825) were also assessed. Results and discussion: Minor changes were observed in the textural and rheological properties of the formulation when stored at 20 °C for 6 months and the antioxidant activity of the plant extract remained constant throughout the storage period. Microbiological quality was confirmed at the end of the study. Under accelerated conditions, higher modifications of the evaluated parameters were observed. Cryo-SEM analysis revealed the presence of oil droplets dispersed into a gelified external phase. The release rate of the antioxidant compounds (610 ± 70 µgh−0.5) followed Higuchi model. A significant in vivo moisturizing effect was demonstrated, that lasted at least 4 h after product’s application. Conclusion: The physical, functional and microbiological stability of the antioxidant formulation was established. Specific storage conditions should be recommended considering the influence of temperature on the stability. A skin hydration effect and good skin tolerance were also found which suggests that this preparation can be useful in the prevention or treatment of oxidative stress-mediated dysfunctions.

Inclusion complex of piroxicam with beta-cyclodextrin and incorporation in cationic microemulsion. In vitro drug release and in vivo topical anti-inflammatory effect

Topical formulations of piroxicam were evaluated by determination of their in vitro release and in vivo anti-inflammatory effect. The in vitro release assay demonstrated that the microemulsion (ME) systems provided a reservoir effect for piroxicam release. However, the incorporation of the ME into carboxyvinilic gel provoked a greater reduction in the release of piroxicam than the ME system alone. Anti-inflammatory activity was carried out by the cotton pellet granuloma inhibition bioassay. Topical anti-inflammatory effect of the piroxicam inclusion complex/ME contained in carboxyvinilic gel showed significant inhibition of the inflammation process (36.9%, P < 0.05). Subcutaneous administration of the drug formulations showed a significant effect on the inhibition of inflammation, 68.8 and 70.5%, P <0.05, when the piroxicam was incorporated in ME and in the combined system beta -cyclodextrin (B-CD)/ME, respectively, relative to the buffered piroxicam (42.2%). These results demonstrated that the ME induced prolonged effects, providing inhibition of the inflammation for 9 days after a single dose administration. (C) 2001 Elsevier B.V. B.V. All rights reserved.

Design of antiseptic formulations containing extract of Plinia cauliflora

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

A comparison of three different methodologies for evaluating Rhipicephalus (Boophilus) rnicroplus susceptibility to topical spray compounds

This study aimed to compare three different methodologies (Adult Immersion Tests, field trials with naturally infected animals, and a Stall Test using artificially infested cattle) to evaluate the efficacy of two topical formulations that we administered as whole body sprays (15% Cypermethrin + 30% Chlorpyriphos + 15% Fenthion-Colosso (R) FC 30, Ouro Fino Agronegocios; and 60% Dichlorvos + 20% Chlorpyriphos-Ectofos (R), Vallee Saude Animal Ltd.), against a susceptible strain of Rhipicephalus (Boophilus) microplus. To achieve this objective, two natural infestation trials were conducted, as well as two artificial infestation trials (Stall Tests) and two Adult Immersion Tests (AIT). The AIT results showed that both spray formulations achieved 100% efficacy against R. (B.) micro plus fully engorged females. However, when observing results obtained by field trials (natural infestations) and Stall Tests, none of these topically applied compounds reached 100% efficacy or affected the reproductive capacity of the fully engorged female ticks. Additional studies must be conducted to compare these in vivo methodologies with different in vitro techniques, such as the Larval Packet Test. However, based on results obtained here, we can conclude that depending on the spray formulations used, the AIT can overestimate acaricidal efficacy and values of reproductive efficiency of such compounds against R (B.) micro plus. Specifically, when dealing with spray formulations in the Stall Tests, the period of residual action can increase because these animals are sheltered from contact with environmental factors that might interfere with the efficacy of the products tested. It may be necessary to take in vivo trial results into consideration (such as field trials with naturally infested animals or Stall Tests) to standardize a specific in vitro assay, such as the Adult Immersion Test. (C) 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Benefits of Combinations of Vitamin A, C and E Derivatives in the Stability of Cosmetic Formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy

Liposoluble vitamin C derivatives, such as tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (IPAA), are often used in dermocosmetic products due to their higher stability than vitamin C free form as well as its proposed effects in skin; however, there are no studies analyzing IPAA stability or its in vivo effects when present in dermocosmetic formulations. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate chemical stability and pre-clinical and clinical efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing IPAA in skin hydration and microrelief. Chemical stability of the formulations added with 1% IPAA was evaluated by heat stress during 35 days by HPLC. For pre-clinical evaluation, experimental formulations were topically applied on hairless skin mice during 5 days and animal skins were analyzed by non-invasive biophysic techniques (water content of stratum corneum, TEWL, viscoelasticity, and microrelief) and by histopathological studies. For clinical efficacy tests, the formulations were topically applied to the forearm and face of human volunteers, and 3 h and 15 days after applications, the skins were evaluated by the same non-invasive techniques mentioned before. Results showed that formulations containing IPAA had medium stability and had pronounced moisturizing effects on stratum corneum and on viable epidermis. These formulations also improved skin microrelief especially in relation to skin smoothness and roughness. (C) 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Microemulsions as topical delivery vehicles for the anti-melanoma prodrug, temozolomide hexyl ester (TMZA-HE)

A prodrug, temozolomide acid hexyl ester (TMZA-HE), was identified as a skin-deliverable congener for temozolomide (TMZ) to treat skin cancers. Poor solubility and instability of TMZA-HE rendered a serious challenge for formulation of a topical preparation. Microemulsions (ME) were chosen as a potential vehicle for TMZA-HE topical preparations. ME systems were constructed with either oleic acid (OA) or isopropyl myristate (IPM) as the oil phase and tocopheryl (vitamin E) polyethylene glycol 1000 succinate (VE-TPGS) as a surfactant. Topical formulations of OA and IPM ME systems demonstrated beneficial solubilising ability and provided a stable environment for the prodrug, TMZA-HE. Significant differences between the microstructures of OA and IPM ME systems were revealed by freeze fracture electron microscopy (FFEM) and different loading abilities and permeation potencies between the two systems were also identified. In permeation studies, IPM ME systems, with inclusion of isopropyl alcohol (IPA) as a co-surfactant, significantly increased TMZA-HE permeation through silicon membranes and rat skin resulting in less drug retention within the skin, while OA ME systems demonstrated higher solubilising ability and a higher concentration of TMZA-HE retained within the skin. Therefore IPM ME systems are promising for transdermal delivery of TMZA-HE and OA ME systems may be a suitable choice for a topical formulation of TMZA-HE. © 2007 The Authors.

Stability and in vitro penetration study of rutin incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion through an alternative model biomembrane

Rutin is employed as antioxidant and to prevent the capillary fragility and, when incorporated in cosmetic emulsions, it must target the action site. In vitro cutaneous penetration studies through human skin is the ideal situation, however, there are difficulties to obtain and to maintain this tissue viability. Among the membrane models, shed snake skin presents itself as pure stratum corneum, providing barrier function similar to human and it is obtained without the animal sacrifice. The objectives of this research were the development and stability evaluation of a cosmetic emulsion containing rutin and propylene glycol (penetration enhancer) and the evaluation or rutin in vitro cutaneous penetration and retention from the emulsion, employing an alternative model biomembrane. Emulsion was developed with rutin and propylene glycol, both at 5.0% w/w. Active substance presented on the formulation was quantified by a validated spectrophotometric method at 361.0 nm. Rutin Rutin cutaneous penetration and retention was performed in vertical diffusion cells with shed snake skin of Crotalus durissus, as alternative model biomembrane, and distilled water and ethanol 99.5% (1:1), as receptor fluid. The experiment was conducted for six hours, at 37.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C with constant stirring of 300 rpm. Spectrophotometry at 410.0 nm, previously validated, determined the active substance after cutaneous penetration/ retention. Emulsion did not promote rutin cutaneous penetration through C. durissus skin, retaining 0.931 +/- 0.0391 mu g rutin/mg shed snake skin. The referred formulation was chemically stable for 30 days after stored at 25.0 +/- 2.0 degrees C, 5.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C and 45.0 +/- 0.5 degrees C. In conclusion, it has not been verified the active cutaneous penetration through the model biomembrane, but only its retention on the Crotalus durissus stratum corneum, condition considered stable for 30 days.