Shear stress and sediment transport calculations for swash zone modelling

It is shown that the observed difference in sediment transporting efficiency by the swash uprush, compared with the downrush, could be mainly due to greater bed shear stress for a given velocity in the more abruptly accelerated uprush. The bed shear stress generated by an arbitrary free stream velocity time series is modelled in terms of usual wave boundary layer models plus a phase lead (phi(tau) of the bed shear stress compared with the free stream velocity at the peak frequency. With this approach, the total transport amounts in uprush and downrush can be modelled satisfactorily with the same sediment transport formula, without the need for different uprush and downrush coefficients. While the adaptation of sediment transport formulae from steady flow can thus lead to the right total amounts of sediment moved by this method, the timing of the instantaneous sediment transport rates are probably not accurately modelled due to the highly unsteady nature of the swash and the presence of pre-suspended sediment in the uprush. Nevertheless, the proposed method is a useful intermediate step before we have a complete understanding of sediment transport under very rapid accelerations and of the relative contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the onshore sediment transport in swash zones. (C) 2002 Published by Elsevier Science B.V.

Field observations of instantaneous water slopes and horizontal pressure gradients in the swash-zone

Field observations of instantaneous water surface slopes in the swash zone are presented. For free-surface flows with a hydrostatic pressure distribution the surface slope is equivalent to the horizontal pressure gradient. Observations were made using a novel technique which in its simplest form consists of a horizontal stringline extending seaward from the beach face. Visual observation, still photography or video photography is then sufficient to determine the surface slope where the free-surface cuts the line or between reference points in the image. The method resolves the mean surface gradient over a cross-shore distance of 5 m or more to within +/- 0.001, or 1/20th -1/100th of typical beach gradients. In addition, at selected points and at any instant in time during the swash cycle, the water surface slope can be determined exactly to be dipping either seaward or landward. Close to the location of bore collapse landward dipping water surface slopes of order 0.05-0.1 occur over a very small region (order 0.5 m) at the blunt or convex leading edge of the swash. In the middle and upper swash the water surface slope at this leading edge is usually very close to horizontal or slightly seaward. Behind the leading edge, the water surface slope was observed to be very close to horizontal or dipping seaward at all times throughout the swash uprush. During the backwash the water surface slope was observed to be always dipping seaward, approaching the beach slope, and remained seaward until a new uprush edge or incident bore passed any particular cross-shore location of interest. The observations strongly Suggest that the swash boundary layer is subject to an adverse pressure gradient during uprush and a favourable pressure gradient during the backwash. Furthermore, assuming Euler's equations are a good approximation in the swash, the observations also show that the total fluid acceleration is negative (offshore) for almost the whole of the uprush and for the entire backwash. The observations are contrary to recent work suggesting significant shoreward directed accelerations and pressure gradients occur in the swash (i.e., delta u/delta t > 0 similar to delta p/delta x < 0), but consistent with analytical and numerical solutions for swash uprush and backwash. The results have important implications for sediment transport modelling in the swash zone.

Observations of turbulence within the surf and swash zone of a field-scale sandy laboratory beach

Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical turbulence structure evolves from bottom-dominated to approximately vertically uniform with an increase in the fraction of breaking waves to ~ 50%. In the swash zone, the turbulence is predominantly bottom-induced during the backwash and shows a homogeneous turbulence profile during uprush. We further find that the instantaneous turbulence kinetic energy is phase-coupled with the short-wave orbital motion under the plunging breakers, with higher levels shortly after the reversal from offshore to onshore motion (i.e. wavefront).

Direct estimation wave setup as a medium level in swash

The extreme runup is a key parameter for a shore risk analysis in which the accurate and quantitative estimation of the upper limit reached by waves is essential. Runup can be better approximated by splitting the setup and swash semi-amplitude contributions. In an experimental study recording setup becomes difficult due to infragravity motions within the surf zone, hence, it would be desirable to measure the setup with available methodologies and devices. In this research, an analysis is made of evaluated the convenience of direct estimation setup as the medium level in the swash zone for experimental runup analysis through a physical model. A physical mobile bed model was setup in a wave flume at the Laboratory for Maritime Experimentation of CEDEX. The wave flume is 36 metres long, 6.5 metres wide and 1.3 metres high. The physical model was designed to cover a reasonable range of parameters, three different slopes (1/50, 1/30 and 1/20), two sand grain sizes (D50 = 0.12 mm and 0.70 mm) and a range for the Iribarren number in deep water (ξ0) from 0.1 to 0.6. Best formulations were chosen for estimating a theoretical setup in the physical model application. Once theoretical setup had been obtained, a comparison was made with an estimation of the setup directly as a medium level of the oscillation in swash usually considered in extreme runup analyses. A good correlation was noted between both theoretical and time-averaging setup and a relation is proposed. Extreme runup is analysed through the sum of setup and semi-amplitude of swash. An equation is proposed that could be applied in strong foreshore slope-dependent reflective beaches.

Swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach

New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of f(w)=0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Swash-aquifer interaction in the vicinity of the water table exit point on a sandy beach

The coupling of sandy beach aquifers with the swash zone in the vicinity of the water table exit point is investigated through simultaneous measurements of the instantaneous shoreline (swash front) location, pore pressures and the water table exit point. The field observations reveal new insights into swash-aquifer coupling not previously gleaned from measurements of pore pressure only. In particular, for the case where the exit point is seaward of the observation point, the pore pressure response is correlated with the distance between the exit point and the shoreline in that when the distance is large the rate of pressure drop is fast and when the distance is small the rate decreases. The observations expose limitations in a simple model describing exit point dynamics which is based only on the force balance on a particle of water at the sand surface and neglects subsurface pressures. A new modified form of the model is shown to significantly improve the model-data comparison through a parameterization of the effects of capillarity into the aquifer storage coefficient. The model enables sufficiently accurate predictions of the exit point to determine when the swash uprush propagates over a saturated or a partially saturated sand surface, potentially an important factor in the morphological evolution of the beach face. Observations of the shoreward propagation of the swash-induced pore pressure waves ahead of the runup limit shows that the magnitude of the pressure fluctuation decays exponentially and that there is a linear increase in time lags, behavior similar to that of tidally induced water table waves. The location of the exit point and the intermittency of wave runup events is also shown to be significant in terms of the shore-normal energy distribution. Seaward of the mean exit point location, peak energies are small because of the saturated sand surface within the seepage face acting as a "rigid lid'' and limiting pressure fluctuations. Landward of the mean exit point the peak energies grow before decreasing landward of the maximum shoreline position.

Effect of cold fronts on the benthic macrofauna of exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Temporal variability of benthic macrofauna on Cassino beach, southernmost Brazil

The temporal variability of benthic macrofauna on Cassino beach, southernmost Brazil, was studied for a period of one year (June 2004 to May 2005) based on monthly sampling. Three sites were selected distant 50m from each other. At each site, 3 transects were established, 2m equidistant from one another. Each transect extended from the base of the primary dunes to the inner surf zone at approximately 1m in depth, with 7 or 8 sampling levels. Within transects, the distance between the levels was 20m until the upper swash zone, from which distance was 10m until the 1-meter isobath. The temporal variation in the abundance of benthic macrofauna observed in the present study can be attributed to (1) the positive effects of the recruitment peaks and migration of particular species to the swash zone and (2) negative effects of the migration of some species to deeper waters, as well (3) as mortality through natural causes (stranding and action of predators) and (4) human causes (harvesting and vehicle transit). We attribute the expressive abundance increase of benthic macrofauna to recruitment. The stranding, that is, the trapping of the organisms on the upper parts of the beach, is likely the main cause of abrupt drops in benthic macrofauna abundance.

EFFECT OF COLD FRONTS ON THE BENTHIC MACROFAUNA OF EXPOSED SANDY BEACHES WITH CONTRASTING MORPHODYNAMICS

The aim of this study was to determine the short-term environmental changes caused by the simultaneous passage of a high energy event on two sandy beaches with different morphodynamic states and their influence on the richness, abundance and distribution of the benthic macrofauna. Two microtidal exposed sandy beaches with contrasting morphodynamics were simultaneously sampled before, during and after the passage of two cold fronts in Santa Catarina. The reflective beach showed a higher susceptibility to the increase in wave energy produced by the passage of cold fronts and was characterized by rapid and intense erosive processes in addition to a capacity for rapid restoration of the beach profile. As regards the dissipative beach, erosive processes operated more slowly and progressively, and it was characterized further by a reduced capacity for the recovery of its sub-aerial profile. Although the intensity of the environmental changes was distinct as between the morphodynamic extremes, changes in the composition, richness and abundance of macrobenthos induced by cold fronts were not evident for either of the beaches studied. On the other hand, alterations in the distribution pattern of the macrofauna were observed on the two beaches and were related to variations in sea level, position of the swash zone and moisture gradient, suggesting that short-term accommodations in the spatial structure of the macrobenthos occur in response to changes in environmental conditions in accordance with the temporal dynamics characteristic of each morphodynamic state.

Morfodinâmica costeira e o uso da orla oceânica de Salinópolis (Nordeste do Pará)

Os aspectos morfodinâmicos relacionados à erosão ou acresção da linha de costa são alguns dos assuntos analisados na gestão das zonas costeiras que vêem sendo tratada em todo mundo no sentido de monitorar e proteger essas zonas. Esta tese objetiva analisar o comportamento da morfodinâmica costeira de Salinópolis, relacionando-o ao uso da orla oceânica. A área de estudo foi compartimentada em três setores: Oeste (praias da Corvina e do Maçarico), Central (praia do Farol Velho) e Leste (praia do Atalaia). A metodologia consistiu na: (a) aquisição e tratamento de imagens multitemporais (1988-2001-2013) do satélite Landsat 5 TM, 7 ETM e 8 OLI; (b) aplicação de entrevistas/questionários com banhistas, (c) aquisição de dados de campo durante as estações chuvosa (26, 27, 28/04/2013) e menos chuvosa (04, 05, 06/10/2013); e (d) análise laboratorial para o tratamento dos dados adquiridos em campo (topografia das praias estudadas, amostragem de sedimentos superficiais das mesmas e com o uso de armadilhas, e medições oceanográficas de ondas, marés, correntes e turbidez). Foram feitas as representações gráficas dos perfis topográficos das praias, calculados os parâmetros estatísticos granulométricos de Folk & Ward (1957), as taxas do transporte sedimentar nas praias e os parâmetros morfométricos de Short & Hesp (1982), estes últimos foram calculados com o intuito de relacioná-los aos estados morfodinâmicos de praias propostos por Wright & Short (1984) e Masselink & Short (1993). Para a classificação da costa oceânica de Salinópolis em termos de uso e ocupação foi utilizado o decreto nº 5.300 de 7 de dezembro de 2004. A partir das pesquisas sobre a urbanização na costa e das obras situadas nos ambientes costeiros foi utilizada uma matriz proposta por Farinaccio & Tessler (2010) que lista uma série de impactos ambientais, e o quadro de geoindicadores do comportamento da linha de costa proposto por Bush et al. (1999), para a identificação de locais com vulnerabilidade à erosão ou acresção. Para as condições oceanográficas em cada praia e periculosidade ao banho nas mesmas, foram integralizados os dados de ondas, de correntes, de morfodinâmica praial e questionários aplicados com banhistas. Atualmente, a orla oceânica de Salinópolis possui diferentes características quanto à utilização e conservação, abrangendo desde a tipologia de orlas naturais (Classe A) até orlas com urbanização consolidada (Classe C). A primeira ocorre nos extremos da área de estudo e, a segunda, na região da sede municipal. Quatro tipos de praias foram identificados segundo a exposição marítima e o grau das condições oceanográficas: tipo 1 (Maçarico), tipo 2 (Corvina), tipo 3 (Farol Velho) e tipo 4 (Atalaia). O trecho de costa com maiores impactos ambientais e com elevada erosão costeira localiza-se na praia do Farol Velho. O grau de periculosidade ao banho foi de 4 (praia do Maçarico) a 7 (praia do Atalaia) – médio a alto grau de risco. As praias de Salinópolis apresentam declives suaves (< 1,5°), grandes variações na linha de costa entre as estações do ano (9,6 a 88, 4 m) e volume sedimentar variável dependendo do grau de exposição das praias ao oceano aberto. Predominou o estado morfodinâmico dissipativo (Ω>5,5) para estas praias, mas com ocorrência do estado de banco e calha longitudinais (4,7<Ω<5,5) no setor oeste. As macromarés na área de estudo apresentaram altura máxima de 5,3 m (Setor Central, durante a estação menos chuvosa) e mínima de 4 m no mesmo setor, durante a estação chuvosa. As correntes longitudinais foram mais intensas no setor leste (>0,45 m/s) durante as duas estaçoes do ano. As alturas de ondas foram também maiores no setor leste (máximo de 1,05 m durante a maré enchente na estação menos chuvosa) e os períodos de ondas foram mais curtos (<4,5 s) no setor oeste. A média granulométrica obtida dos sedimentos coletados na face praial apresentou escala mais freqüente entre 2,6 a 2,8 phi, indicando a predominância de areia fina. O grau de seleção predominante dos sedimentos foi de 0,2 a 0,5 phi (muito bem selecionados e bem selecionados), e da assimetria foi de positiva (0,10 a 0,30) e de aproximadamente simétrica (-0,10 a 0,10). O grau de curtose variou desde muito platicúrtica (<0,67) a muito leptocúrtica (1,50 a 3,00). Foram observados eventos de acresção sedimentar da estação chuvosa a menos chuvosa. De 22/07/1988 a 28/08/2013 (25 anos) também houve predomínio de acresção, onde o avanço médio linear da linha de costa foi de 190,26 m. O recuo médio linear obtido para toda área de estudo foi de -42,25 m. Áreas com maior erosão são pontuais: divisas das praias da Corvina e Maçarico, e Farol Velho e Atalaia. Os traps portáteis indicaram uma maior quantidade de sedimentos transportados longitudinalmente na estação menos chuvosa (Mín. 280 g/m³: enchente, setor oeste; Máx. 1098 g/m³: vazante, setor leste). Nos traps de espraiamento, o balanço entre a quantidade de sedimentos entrando e saindo nas praias foi menor no setor central (Mín. 80 g/m³: vazante, estação menos chuvosa; Máx. 690 g/m³: enchente, estação menos chuvosa). A circulação costeira sedimentar é proveniente, principalmente, do efeito das marés, com direção governada pela enchente e vazante dos rios que atravessam a costa. Os dados indicam o transporte longitudinal de sedimentos da ilha de Atalaia e rio Sampaio para o setor oeste e as margens das faixas praiais.

Long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic fauna of Panama City Beach, Florida /

The long-term effects of beach nourishment on the benthic infauna and surface sediments of Panama City beaches were investigated. Forty-seven stations located on nine transects between West Pass and Philips Inlet, and two nourishment borrow sites were sampled in November-December 1979 and May 1980. The data collected were compared to prenourishment base-line information collected by Saloman (1976). Abiotic parameters, water temperature, dissolved oxygen and salinity were measured. Sediments were analyzed for particle-size distribution, percent organic carbon and percent carbonate. Benthic macroinvertebrates were represented by 162 taxa of 14 major animal phyla. Species composition and faunal densities varied seasonally. Polychaetes and amphipods were the most abundant animal groups; a small number of species were dominant at nearly all stations. Species diversity was lowest in the swash zone and sandbar stations and highest offshore. Sediment composition was similar to that of Saloman's (1976) study within limits of sampling and processing errors. Faunal composition was found to be different from 1976 but was attributed to normal seasonal and spatial variations. Based on benthic community analyses and sediment parameters, no significant differences were found between nourishment borrow sites and surrounding areas and in the nearshore areas where beach nourishment was conducted. No long-term adverse effects of beach nourishment were detected. (Author).

Settling velocity of sediments at high concentrations

New data on the settling velocity of artificial sediments and natural sands at high concentrations are presented. The data are compared with a widely used semiempirical Richardson and Zaki equation (Trans. Inst. Chem. Eng. 32 (1954) 35), which gives an accurate measure of the reduction in velocity as a function of concentration and an experimentally determined empirical power n. Here, a simple method of determining n is presented using standard equations for the clear water settling velocity and the seepage flow within fixed sediment beds. The resulting values for n are compared against values derived from new and existing laboratory data for beach and filter sands. For sands, the appropriate values of n are found to differ significantly from those suggested by Richardson and Zaki for spheres, and are typically larger, corresponding to a greater reduction in settling velocity at high concentrations. For fine and medium sands at concentrations of order 0.4, the hindered settling velocity reduces to about 70% of that expected using values of n derived for spheres. At concentrations of order 0.15, the hindered settling velocity reduces to less than half of the settling velocity in clear water. These reduced settling velocities have important implications for sediment transport modelling close to, and within, sheet flow layers and in the swash zone.

Large scale experiments on gravel and mixed beaches: Experimental procedure, data documentation and initial results

This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions. The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. (C) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.