The acceptable level of risk-taking for traditional rock climbers

Taking risk with all the consequences inevitably belongs to climbing. Each climber confronts his or her skills with the route he or she has chosen for an ascent. If the route is well protected, the rate of risk the climber takes is lower. If the route is less protected, the level of risk that the climber is exposed to proportionally increases. The aim of the research is to determine the level of risk-taking in traditional climbing on sandstone. We focus on how the level of risk affects climber’s performance and what reserve a climber needs to be able to cope with the higher risk and reduce it? The problem is solved by methods of quantitative research and the sample comprises more than 300 respondents. The results of the research prove a significant difference of climbers’ performance in dependence on rate of risk. Climbers usually reach lower performance according to the grading scale when climbing traditional routes with a higher level of risk.

Aerobic profile of climbers during maximal arm test

This study compared measurements of upper body aerobic fitness in elite (EC; n = 7) and intermediate rock climbers (IC; n = 7), and a control group (C; n = 7). Subjects underwent an upper limb incremental test on hand cycle ergometer, with increments of 23 W.min(-1), until exhaustion. Ventilation (VE) data were smoothed to 10 s averages and plotted against time for the visual determination of the first (VT1) and second (VT2) ventilatory thresholds. Peak power output was not different among groups [EC = 130.9 (+/- 11.8) W; IC = 122.1 (+/- 28.4) W; C = 115.4 (+/- 15.1) W], but time to exhaustion was significantly higher in EC than IC and C. VO(2PEAK) was significantly higher in EC [36.8 (+/- 5.7) mL.kg(-1).min(-1)] and IC [35.5 (+/- 5.2) mL.kg(-1).min(-1)] than C [28.8 (+/- 5.0) mL.kg(-1).min(-1)], but there was no difference between EC and IC. VT1 was significantly higher in EC than C [EC = 69.0 (+/- 9.4) W; IC = 62.4 (+/- 13.0) W; C = 52.1 (+/- 11.8) W], but no significant difference was observed in VT2 [EC = 103.5 (+/- 18.8) W; IC = 92.0 (+/- 22.0) W; C = 85.6 (+/- 19.7) W]. These results show that elite indoor rock climbers elicit higher aerobic fitness profile than control subjects when measured with an upper body test.

Fit-climbing test: a field test for indoor rock climbing

Bertuzzi, R, Franchini, E, Tricoli, V, Lima-Silva, AE, Pires, FDO, Okuno, NM, and Kiss, MAPDM. Fit-climbing test: A field test for indoor rock climbing. J Strength Cond Res 26(6): 1558-1563, 2012-The aim of this study was to develop an indoor rock-climbing test on an artificial wall (Fit-climbing test). Thirteen climbers (elite group [EG] = 6; recreational group [RG] = 7) performed the following tests: (a) familiarization in the Fitclimbing test, (b) the Fit-climbing test, and (c) a retest to evaluate the Fit-climbing test's reliability. Gas exchange, blood lactate concentration, handgrip strength, and heart rate were measured during the test. Oxygen uptake during the Fit-climbing test was not different between groups (EG = 8.4 +/- 1.1 L; RG = 7.9 +/- 1.5 L, p > 0.05). The EG performance (120 +/- 7 movements) was statistically higher than the RG climbers' performance (78 +/- 13 movements) during the Fit-climbing test. Consequently, the oxygen cost per movement during the Fit-climbing test of the EG was significantly lower than that of the RG (p < 0.05). Handgrip strength was higher in the EG when compared with that in the RG in both pre-Fit- and post-Fit-climbing test (p < 0.05). There were no significant differences in any other variables analyzed during the Fit-climbing test (p > 0.05). Furthermore, the performance in the Fit-climbing test presented high reliability (intraclass correlation coefficient = 0.97). Therefore, the performance during the Fit-climbing test may be an alternative to evaluate rock climbers because of its specificity and relation to oxygen cost per movement during climbing.

Ventilation behavior during upper-body incremental exercise

Pires, FO, Hammond, J, Lima-Silva, AE, Bertuzzi, RCM, and Kiss, MAPDM. Ventilation behavior during upper-body incremental exercise. J Strength Cond Res 25(1): 225-230, 2011-This study tested the ventilation (V(E)) behavior during upper-body incremental exercise by mathematical models that calculate 1 or 2 thresholds and compared the thresholds identified by mathematical models with V-slope, ventilatory equivalent for oxygen uptake (V(E)/(V) over dotO(2)), and ventilatory equivalent for carbon dioxide uptake (V(E)/(V) over dotCO(2)). Fourteen rock climbers underwent an upper-body incremental test on a cycle ergometer with increases of approximately 20 W.min(-1) until exhaustion at a cranking frequency of approximately 90 rpm. The V(E) data were smoothed to 10-second averages for V(E) time plotting. The bisegmental and the 3-segmental linear regression models were calculated from 1 or 2 intercepts that best shared the V(E) curve in 2 or 3 linear segments. The ventilatory threshold(s) was determined mathematically by the intercept(s) obtained by bisegmental and 3-segmental models, by V-slope model, or visually by V(E)/(V) over dotO(2) and V(E)/(V) over dotCO(2). There was no difference between bisegmental (mean square error [MSE] = 35.3 +/- 32.7 l.min(-1)) and 3-segmental (MSE = 44.9 +/- 47.8 l.min(-1)) models in fitted data. There was no difference between ventilatory threshold identified by the bisegmental (28.2 +/- 6.8 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)) and second ventilatory threshold identified by the 3-segmental (30.0 +/- 5.1 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)), V(E)/(V) over dotO(2) (28.8 +/- 5.5 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)), or V-slope (28.5 +/- 5.6 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)). However, the first ventilatory threshold identified by 3-segmental (23.1 +/- 4.9 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)) or by VE/(V) over dotO(2) (24.9 +/- 4.4 ml.kg(-1).min(-1)) was different from these 4. The V(E) behavior during upper-body exercise tends to show only 1 ventilatory threshold. These findings have practical implications because this point is frequently used for aerobic training prescription in healthy subjects, athletes, and in elderly or diseased populations. The ventilatory threshold identified by V(E) curve should be used for aerobic training prescription in healthy subjects and athletes.

Does flow experience lead to risk? How and for whom

Background: Previous research has focused on the positive consequences of flow, an intrinsically rewarding state of deep absorption. In contrast, the present research links flow to impaired risk awareness and to risky behaviour. We expected flow to enhance self-efficacy beliefs, which in turn were hypothesised to result in low risk awareness and risky behaviour in sports. In addition, we predicted that individuals' level of experience in the activity would moderate the expected effects. Methods: One study with kayakers (Study 1) and two studies with rock climbers (Studies 2 and 3) were conducted. Kayakers completed a survey while still on the river; climbers responded during and upon completion of a climb. Results: In all studies flow was related to risk awareness. Study 2 additionally showed its association with risky behaviour. Studies 2 and 3 revealed that these relationships were mediated by self-efficacy. The mediations were moderated by level of experience (Study 3). Conclusions: The results indicated that inexperienced but not experienced participants respond to self-efficacy beliefs evoked by flow with impaired risk awareness and with risky behaviour. Theoretical implications for flow and risk research as well as practical implications for risk prevention are discussed.

Climbers' perceptions toward sustainable bouldering at the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve

Currently, there are a variety of concerns about the future of bouldering, a form of rock climbing, a t the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve near Niagara Falls, Ontario due to environmental impacts at the site. The purpose of this study was to describe the perceptions ofbouldering participants toward sustainable bouldering practices at the Niagara Glen. The methodological framework for this study was based on action research, which attempts to solve specific problems through having people in a community study, discuss, and act on those problems. Five separate focus group interviews elicited data from nineteen men and seven women, while there were twenty one men and ten women observed through participant observations at the Niagara Glen. Analysis was conducted through coding processes where data were compared repeatedly and then organized into themes. From the open coding process, two main themes were identified and interpreted as 1) Barriers to Sustainable Bouldering at the Niagara Glen Nature Reserve, and 2) Environmental and Social Role and Responsibility ofBoulde r ing Participants at the Niagara Glen. The implications of the findings include a variety of recommendations for the bouldering community and the Niagara Parks Commission to consider for future collaborative planning. Some of these recommendations include more open communication between all stakeholders at the Glen, additional leadership from local climbing access coalitions and the Niagara Parks Commission, and greater implementation of minimum impact practices from the bouldering community. Additionally, these implications are discussed through a three-part framework based on a conceptual intersection of sense of place, community empowerment, and sustainable recreational use as a way to potentially unify the bouldering community's voice and vision toward sustainable practice.

Energy system contributions in indoor rock climbing

The present study cross-sectionally investigated the influence of training status, route difficulty and upper body aerobic and anaerobic performance of climbers on the energetics of indoor rock climbing. Six elite climbers (EC) and seven recreational climbers ( RC) were submitted to the following laboratory tests: ( a) anthropometry, (b) upper body aerobic power, and ( c) upper body Wingate test. on another occasion, EC subjects climbed an easy, a moderate, and a difficult route, whereas RC subjects climbed only the easy route. The fractions of the aerobic (WAER), anaerobic alactic (W-PCR) and anaerobic lactic (W-[La(])-) systems were calculated based on oxygen uptake, the fast component of excess post-exercise oxygen uptake, and changes in net blood lactate, respectively. on the easy route, the metabolic cost was significantly lower in EC [ 40.3 ( 6.5) kJ] than in RC [60.1 ( 8.8) kJ] ( P < 0.05). The respective contributions of the WAER, WPCR, and W-[La(])- systems in EC were: easy route = 41.5 (8.1), 41.1 (11.4) and 17.4% (5.4), moderate route = 45.8 (8.4), 34.6 (7.1) and 21.9% (6.3), and difficult route = 41.9 (7.4), 35.8 (6.7) and 22.3% (7.2). The contributions of the WAER, WPCR, and W-[La(])- systems in RC subjects climbing an easy route were 39.7 (5.0), 34.0 (5.8), and 26.3% (3.8), respectively. These results indicate that the main energy systems required during indoor rock climbing are the aerobic and anaerobic alactic systems. In addition, climbing economy seems to be more important for the performance of these athletes than improved energy metabolism.

Microsatellite Loci For Orthophytum Ophiuroides (bromelioideae, Bromeliaceae) Species Adapted To Neotropical Rock Outcrops.

• Microsatellite primers were developed for Orthophytum ophiuroides, a rupicolous bromeliad species endemic to neotropical rocky fields. These microsatellite loci will be used to investigate population differentiation and species cohesion in such fragmented environments. The loci were tested for cross-amplification in related bromeliad species. • Eleven polymorphic microsatellite markers were isolated and characterized from an enriched library of O. ophiuroides. The loci were tested on 42 individuals from two populations of this species. The number of alleles per locus ranged from three to nine and the expected and observed heterozygosities ranged from 0.167 to 0.870 and from 0.369 to 0.958, respectively. Seven loci successfully amplified in other related bromeliad species. • Our results suggest that the microsatellite loci developed here will be useful to assess genetic diversity and gene flow in O. ophiuroides for the investigation of population differentiation and species cohesion in neotropical mountainous habitats.

Evaluation of rock mechanical behaviors under uniaxial compression with reference to assessed weathering grades

A weathering classification for granitic rock materials from southeastern Brazil was framed based on core characteristics. The classification was substantiated by a detailed petrographic study. Indirect assessment of weathering grades by density, ultrasonic and Schmidt hammer index tests was performed. Rebound values due to Schmidt hammer multiple impacts at one representative point were more efficient in predicting weathering grades than averaged single impact rebound values, P-wave velocities and densities. Uniaxial compression tests revealed that a large range of uniaxial compressive strength (214-153 MPa) exists in Grade I category where weathering does not seem to have played any role. It was concluded that variability in occurrences of quartz intragranular cracks and in biotite percentage, distribution and orientation might have played a key role in accelerating or decelerating the failure processes of the Grade I specimens. Deterioration of uniaxial compressive strength and elastic modulus and increase in Poisson`s ratio with increasing weathering intensity could be attributed to alteration of minerals, disruption of rock skeleton and microcrack augmentation. A crude relation between failure modes and weathering grades also emerged.

Finite element modelling of temperature gradient driven rock alteration and mineralization in porous rock masses

We present finite element simulations of temperature gradient driven rock alteration and mineralization in fluid saturated porous rock masses. In particular, we explore the significance of production/annihilation terms in the mass balance equations and the dependence of the spatial patterns of rock alteration upon the ratio of the roll over time of large scale convection cells to the relaxation time of the chemical reactions. Special concepts such as the gradient reaction criterion or rock alteration index (RAI) are discussed in light of the present, more general theory. In order to validate the finite element simulation, we derive an analytical solution for the rock alteration index of a benchmark problem on a two-dimensional rectangular domain. Since the geometry and boundary conditions of the benchmark problem can be easily and exactly modelled, the analytical solution is also useful for validating other numerical methods, such as the finite difference method and the boundary element method, when they are used to dear with this kind of problem. Finally, the potential of the theory is illustrated by means of finite element studies related to coupled flow problems in materially homogeneous and inhomogeneous porous rock masses. (C) 1998 Elsevier Science S.A. All rights reserved.

A numerical study of pore-fluid, thermal and mass flow iu fluid-saturated porous rock basins

We present a numerical methodology for the study of convective pore-fluid, thermal and mass flow in fluid-saturated porous rock basins. lit particular, we investigate the occurrence and distribution pattern of temperature gradient driven convective pore-fluid flow and hydrocarbon transport in the Australian North West Shelf basin. The related numerical results have demonstrated that: (1) The finite element method combined with the progressive asymptotic approach procedure is a useful tool for dealing with temperature gradient driven pore-fluid flow and mass transport in fluid-saturated hydrothermal basins; (2) Convective pore-fluid flow generally becomes focused in more permeable layers, especially when the layers are thick enough to accommodate the appropriate convective cells; (3) Large dislocation of strata has a significant influence off the distribution patterns of convective pore;fluid flow, thermal flow and hydrocarbon transport in the North West Shelf basin; (4) As a direct consequence of the formation of convective pore-fluid cells, the hydrocarbon concentration is highly localized in the range bounded by two major faults in the basin.

Visual function: How spiders find the right rock to crawl under

Animals that go on hunting expeditions face the problem of finding the way home at the end of the day. A group of hunting spiders has now been added to the list of animals that use the celestial pattern of polarized light as a compass for navigation. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Strain-dependent fluid flow defined through rock mass classification schemes

Strain-dependent hydraulic conductivities are uniquely defined by an environmental factor, representing applied normal and shear strains, combined with intrinsic material parameters representing mass and component deformation moduli, initial conductivities, and mass structure. The components representing mass moduli and structure are defined in terms of RQD (rock quality designation) and RMR (rock mass rating) to represent the response of a whole spectrum of rock masses, varying from highly fractured (crushed) rock to intact rock. These two empirical parameters determine the hydraulic response of a fractured medium to the induced-deformations The constitutive relations are verified against available published data and applied to study one-dimensional, strain-dependent fluid flow. Analytical results indicate that both normal and shear strains exert a significant influence on the processes of fluid flow and that the magnitude of this influence is regulated by the values of RQD and RMR.

Prediction of rock alteration patterns: a potential tool in mineral exploration

Hydrothermal alteration of a quartz-K-feldspar rock is simulated numerically by coupling fluid flow and chemical reactions. Introduction of CO2 gas generates an acidic fluid and produces secondary quartz, muscovite and/or pyrophyllite at constant temperature and pressure of 300 degrees C and 200 MPa. The precipitation and/or dissolution of the secondary minerals is controlled by either mass-action relations or rate laws. In our simulations the mass of the primary elements are conserved and the mass-balance equations are solved sequentially using an implicit scheme in a finite-element code. The pore-fluid velocity is assumed to be constant. The change of rock volume due to the dissolution or precipitation of the minerals, which is directly related to their molar volume, is taken into account. Feedback into the rock porosity and the reaction rates is included in the model. The model produces zones of pyrophyllite quartz and muscovite due to the dissolution of K-feldspar. Our model simulates, in a simplified way, the acid-induced alteration assemblages observed in various guises in many significant mineral deposits. The particular aluminosilicate minerals produced in these experiments are associated with the gold deposits of the Witwatersrand Basin.