24 resultados para Perfumery


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Stereospecific synthesis of 4-formylcarane (2) has been achieved through hydroboration-carbonylation of DELTA-3-carene. Both the reactions are optimised using sodium borohydride. The method is utilised for the synthesis of sandatrile (3), a novel perfumery chemical.

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Mode of access: Internet.

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Trials to identify alternative cropping options to Melaleuca alternifolia for northern Queensland essential oil growers were established at Dimbulah and Innot Hot Springs in 2001. Seed sources of Asteromyrtus symphyocarpa (1,8-cineole form), Eucalyptus staigeriana (citral), Melaleuca cajuputi subsp. cajuputi (trans-nerolidol), M. ericifolia (d-linalool), M. quinquenervia (trans-nerolidol and viridiflorol forms) and M. viridiflora (methyl cinnamate) with potential to produce commercial foliar oils were evaluated. Information was gathered on their adaptability, growth and oil yields over 49 months and 52 months (two harvests) from planting at Dimbulah and Innot Hot Springs, respectively. Of the species and chemotypes evaluated, M. quinquenervia showed potential for commercial production of trans-nerolidol, a compound used in perfumery. It had a very high survival rate (96%) and yields could be expected to improve dramatically from the average 100 kg/ha per harvest achieved in these trials with further research into selection of seed source, control of insect damage and breeding for genetic improvement. M. cajuputi subsp. cajuputi gave a similar performance to M. quinquenervia. The rarity of the trans-nerolidol form of this species and remoteness of its natural occurrence are impediments to further planting and research. E. staigeriana, with second harvest yields of ~600 kg/ha, performed exceptionally well on both sites but potential for development is limited by the ready availability of competitively priced E. staigeriana oil produced in South America. Survival of M. ericifolia ranged from 62% to 82% at 32 months (second harvest) at Innot Hot Springs and was deemed a failure at Dimbulah with poor growth and low survival, raising a major question about the suitability of this species for cultivation in the seasonally dry tropics. Planting of this species on a wider scale in northern Queensland cannot be recommended until more is known about factors affecting its survival. A. symphyocarpa and M. viridiflora were too slow-growing to warrant further consideration as potential oil-producing species at this time.

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A variety of salicylaldehydes effected tandem nucleophilic addition onto ketene, leading to corresponding coumarins in good yields under mild conditions. This pseudocycloaddition represents a very mild variant of the historic Perkin synthesis of coumarin (which remains of key interest in both perfumery and several emerging areas).

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O presente trabalho tem por objetivo apresentar o papel do design no mercado brasileiro de perfumes. Parte-se da hipótese de que é ele o elemento fundamental para o bom desempenho desse segmento. Na medida em que ele possibilita a diferenciação entre as diversas embalagens, criando uma segmentação para o consumo nas mais diversas camadas sociais. Inicialmente será apresentado o universo do perfume, abordando seus aspectos técnicos e culturais. Uma relação de matérias primas utilizadas na indústria de perfumaria será fornecida. Seu propósito é proporcionar ao designer profissional e ao designer pesquisador uma referência visual dos elementos que compõe um perfume. Adiante, os principais aspectos da história do perfume no mercado nacional de perfumaria são destacados, bem como a mudança de paradigmas de consumo ao longo dessa trajetória. Segue-se com a apresentação das peculiaridades de um projeto de embalagens para esse segmento, destacando o perfil do designer, desse mercado e uma relação de termos técnicos. Por fim, um modelo para catalogação será apresentado e aplicado a um grupo de perfumes nacionais e internacionais. O estudo se encerra com uma análise das embalagens catalogadas, a fim de mostrar que existem diferentes soluções de design para comunicar os conceitos de um perfume.

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Essential oils are used in Cosmetic, Perfumery, Food and Pharmaceutical Industries as flavours and/or medicines. However, part of the essential oil components that remains in the distillation water (hydrosol or distillate water) has been less studied both in chemical and biological terms. This research concerns the antioxidant activity, measured through several methods, of Lavandula officinalis L., Origanum majorana L., Rosmarinus officinalis L., Salvia officinalis L. and Thymus vulgaris L., Cinnamomum verum J. Presl. and Syzygium aromaticum (L.) Merrill and Perry hydrosols. The ability of hydrosols to prevent oxidation was checked by two main methods: prevention of lipid peroxidation through the measurement of malonaldehyde produced after degradation of hydroperoxides; and ability for scavenging free radicals including hydroxyl and superoxide anion radicals. The S. aromaticum and T. vulgaris hydrosols, predominantly constituted by eugenol and carvacrol, respectively, were the most effective as antioxidants, except for scavenging superoxide anion radical. In this case, L. officinalis hydrosol in which linalool prevailed was a stronger antioxidant. The worst hydrosol as antioxidant was that of S. officinalis, independent on the method checked.

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S. album L. is the source of highly priced and fragrant heartwood which on steam distillation yields on an average 57 per cent oil of high perfumery value. Global demand for sandalwood is about 5000-6000 tons/year and that of oil is 100 tons/year. Heartwood of sandal is estimated to fetch up to Rs. 3.7 million/ton and wood oil Rs.70,000-100,000/ kg in the international market. Sandal heartwood prices have increased from Rs. 365/ton in 1900 to Rs. 6.5 lakhs/ton in 1999-2000 and to Rs. 37 lakhs/ton in 2007. Substantial decline in sandalwood production has occurred from 3176 tons/year during 1960-‘ 65 to 1500 tons/year in 1997-98, and to 500 tons/year in 2007.Depletion of sandal resources is attributed to several factors, both natural and anthropogenic. Low seed setting, poor seed germination, seedling mortality, lack of haustorial connection with host plant roots, recurrent annual fires in natural sandal forests, lopping of trees for fodder, excessive grazing, hacking, encroachments, seedling diseases and spread of sandal spike disease are the major problems facing sandal. While these factors hinder sandal regeneration in forest areas, the situation is accelerated by human activities of chronic overexploitation and illicit felling.Deterioration of natural sandal populations due to illicit felling, encroachments and diseases has an adverse effect on genetic diversity of the species. The loss of genetic diversity has aggravated during recent years due to extensive logging, changing landuse patterns and poor natural regeneration. The consequent genetic erosion is of serious concern affecting tree improvement programme in sandal. Conservation as well as mass propagation are the two strategies to be given due importance. To initiate any conservation programme, precise knowledge of the factors influencing regeneration and survival of the species is essential. Hence, the present study was undertaken with the objective of investigating the autotrophic and parasitic phase of sandal seedlings growth, the effects of shade on morphology, chlorophyll concentration and chlorophyll fluorescence of sandal seedlings, genetic diversity in sandal seed stands using ISSR markers, and the diversity of fungal isolates causing sandal seedling wilt using RAPD markers. All these factors directly influence regeneration and survival of sandal seedlings in natural forests and plantations.

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Esta dissertação apresenta a análise ergonômica do trabalho no setor de envase de hidroalcoólicos, de uma empresa de artigos de perfumaria e cosméticos na região metropolitana de Curitiba. A ferramenta Design Macroergonômico (DM), proposta por Fogliatto e Guimarães (1999), permitiu identificar os itens de demanda ergonômica dos usuários e evidenciou diferenças entre as demandas de usuários que realizam as mesmas tarefas em turnos diferentes. As questões de organização do trabalho são as que mais afetam os funcionários, principalmente aqueles que trabalham em turnos que incorporam o trabalho no sábado. Como antes da ampliação da fábrica, o trabalho estava organizado sem o turno de sábado, e tendo em vista o impacto negativo deste horário sobre as pessoas, propõe-se que a organização de trabalho seja revista.

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The aim of this research was to detect how strategy changes took place in a successful organization. This was an unique case study focused on O BOTICÁRIO, a cosmetic and perfumery company in the state of Paraná, Brazil. Some information (from primary data) was obtained through interviewing members of the retail development department. Extra information was taken from articles about the company and interviews with members of the board of directors published in newspapers and magazines. The analysis was carried out in an explanatory-descriptive way, with a qualitative approach. The data, other than serving to characterize the company, was used for a number of purposes. They were: to introduce information about strategy changes in the company; to identify factors that gave rise to these changes; to identify the effects of these changes on the organization; to classify the strategy changes. The data revealed that the company is highly receptive to changes. Amongst the factors that caused strategy changes the following two factors stand out: the flexibility that the company presents in adapting to environmental variations and, overall, the interdependency that exists between changes. Confirming the systemic character of organizations, it was found that the changes lead to new changes. When qualifying the strategy changes, it was discovered that the incremental changes were more related to process evolution, i.e., comprehending transformations directly related to the activities to which the changes are associated with. The discontinuous changes, on the contrary, involved transformations throughout the whole company. Of all the changes that were analyzed only two were considered to be truly strategy revolutions. This confirms the idea that organizations usually choose to search for established strategic paths. The strategy changes analyzed produced a resistance level. This resistance was directly proportional to the level of discontinuance that the change had. It was verified, however, that all changes were considered beneficial to the company. The study concludes that other factors are also responsible for the fast expansion of the company. The most important of these are: the constant lauching of new products; the identification of the company with environmental issues; the policy towards employees; the strong marketing strategy; the quality of its products; the excellence on its services; the treatment of consumers; the use of franchise shops; the training provided to all the franchise network and as well as to the employees; and the seek to hire the best professionals to supervise its services. However, it can¿t be omitted that particular cause of O BOTICÁRIO¿s success is the intuition and the feeling of its President.

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Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)