Pass the scissors : consumers close in on the fashion industry

The fashion ecosystem is at boiling point as consumers turn up the heat in all areas of the fashion value, trend and supply chain. While traditionally fashion has been a monologue from designer brand to consumer, new technology and the virtual world has given consumers a voice to engage brands in a conversation to express evolving needs, ideas and feedback. Product customisation is no longer innovative. Successful brands are including customers in the design process and holding conversations ‘with’ them to improve product, manufacturing, sales, distribution, marketing and sustainable business practices. Co-creation and crowd sourcing are integral to any successful business model and designers and manufacturers are supplying the technology or tools for these creative, active, participatory ‘prosumers’. With this collaboration however, there arises a worrying trend for fashion professionals. The ‘design it yourself’, ‘indiepreneur’ who with the combination of technology, the internet, excess manufacturing capacity, crowd funding and the idea of sharing the creative integrity of a product (‘copyleft’ not copyright) is challenging the notion that the fashion supply chain is complex. The passive ‘consumer’ no longer exists. Fashion designers now share the stage with ‘amateur’ creators who are disrupting every activity they touch, while being motivated by profit as well as a quest for originality and innovation. This paper examines the effects this ‘consumer’ engagement is having on traditional fashion models and the fashion supply chain. Crowd sourcing, crowd funding, co-creating, design it yourself, global sourcing, the virtual supply chain, social media, online shopping, group buying, consumer to consumer marketing and retail, and branding the ‘individual’ are indicative of the new consumer-driven fashion models. Consumers now drive the fashion industry - from setting trends, through to creating, producing, selling and marketing product. They can turn up the heat at any time _ and any point _ in the fashion supply chain. They are raising the temperature at each and every stage of the chain, decreasing or eliminating the processes involved: decreasing the risk of fashion obsolescence, quantities for manufacture, complexity of distribution and the consumption of product; eliminating certain stages altogether and limiting the brand as custodians of marketing. Some brands are discovering a new ‘enemy’ – the very people they are trying to sell to. Keywords: fashion supply chain, virtual world, consumer, ‘prosumers’, co-creation, fashion designers

Comparison of ocular modulation transfer function determined by a ray-tracing aberrometer and a double-pass system in early cataract patients

BACKGROUND: The evaluation of retinal image quality in cataract eyes has gained importance and the clinical modulation transfer functions (MTF) can obtained by aberrometer and double pass (DP) system. This study aimed to compare MTF derived from a ray tracing aberrometer and a DP system in early cataractous and normal eyes. METHODS: There were 128 subjects with 61 control eyes and 67 eyes with early cataract defined according to the Lens Opacities Classification System III. A laser ray-tracing wavefront aberrometer (iTrace) and a double pass (DP) system (OQAS) assessed ocular MTF for 6.0 mm pupil diameters following dilation. Areas under the MTF (AUMTF) and their correlations were analyzed. Stepwise multiple regression analysis assessed factors affecting the differences between iTrace- and OQAS-derived AUMTF for the early cataract group. RESULTS: For both early cataract and control groups, iTrace-derived MTFs were higher than OQAS-derived MTFs across a range of spatial frequencies (P < 0.01). No significant difference between the two groups occurred for iTrace-derived AUMTF, but the early cataract group had significantly smaller OQAS-derived AUMTF than did the control group (P < 0.01). AUMTF determined from both the techniques demonstrated significant correlations with nuclear opacities, higher-order aberrations (HOAs), visual acuity, and contrast sensitivity functions, while the OQAS-derived AUMTF also demonstrated significant correlations with age and cortical opacity grade. The factors significantly affecting the difference between iTrace and OQAS AUMTF were root-mean-squared HOAs (standardized beta coefficient = -0.63, P < 0.01) and age (standardized beta coefficient = 0.26, P < 0.01). CONCLUSIONS: MTFs determined from a iTrace and a DP system (OQAS) differ significantly in early cataractous and normal subjects. Correlations with visual performance were higher for the DP system. OQAS-derived MTF may be useful as an indicator of visual performance in early cataract eyes.

Analysis of one-pass block cipher based authenticated encryption schemes

This project analyses and evaluates the integrity assurance mechanisms used in four Authenticated Encryption schemes based on symmetric block ciphers. These schemes are all cross chaining block cipher modes that claim to provide both confidentiality and integrity assurance simultaneously, in one pass over the data. The investigations include assessing the validity of an existing forgery attack on certain schemes, applying the attack approach to other schemes and implementing the attacks to verify claimed probabilities of successful forgeries. For these schemes, the theoretical basis of the attack was developed, the attack algorithm implemented and computer simulations performed for experimental verification.

Militair Pass des Füsilier Moritz Würzweiler.

Military I.D. from the army of the Grand Duchy of Baden for Moritz Würzweiler from Hoffenheim; 1868

Design of compact low pass filter with wide stop band using tri-section stepped impedance resonator

This paper reports the design of a compact low pass filter (LPF) with wide stop band region using trisection stepped impedance resonators in microstrip medium. Experimental results of a low pass filter designed at 1 GHz have been compared against the analytical and EM simulation results for the validation of the design. Results are satisfactorily matching each other. The maximum insertion of the measured filter is 0.2 dB and minimum return loss is 13.5 dB over the pass band. The stop band rejection is better than 20 dB from 1.5 GHz to 4.2 GHz and hence wide stop band performance is achieved. Overall size of the filter is 30 mm x 20 mm x 0.78 mm which is 0.1 lambda x 0.066 lambda. x 0.0026 lambda at 1 GHz. (C) 2011 Elsevier GmbH. All rights reserved.

Low-pass filters and differential tympanal tuning in a paleotropical bushcricket with an unusually low frequency call

Low-frequency sounds are advantageous for long-range acoustic signal transmission, but for small animals they constitute a challenge for signal detection and localization. The efficient detection of sound in insects is enhanced by mechanical resonance either in the tracheal or tympanal system before subsequent neuronal amplification. Making small structures resonant at low sound frequencies poses challenges for insects and has not been adequately studied. Similarly, detecting the direction of long-wavelength sound using interaural signal amplitude and/or phase differences is difficult for small animals. Pseudophylline bushcrickets predominantly call at high, often ultrasonic frequencies, but a few paleotropical species use lower frequencies. We investigated the mechanical frequency tuning of the tympana of one such species, Onomarchus uninotatus, a large bushcricket that produces a narrow bandwidth call at an unusually low carrier frequency of 3.2. kHz. Onomarchus uninotatus, like most bushcrickets, has two large tympanal membranes on each fore-tibia. We found that both these membranes vibrate like hinged flaps anchored at the dorsal wall and do not show higher modes of vibration in the frequency range investigated (1.5-20. kHz). The anterior tympanal membrane acts as a low-pass filter, attenuating sounds at frequencies above 3.5. kHz, in contrast to the high-pass filter characteristic of other bushcricket tympana. Responses to higher frequencies are partitioned to the posterior tympanal membrane, which shows maximal sensitivity at several broad frequency ranges, peaking at 3.1, 7.4 and 14.4. kHz. This partitioning between the two tympanal membranes constitutes an unusual feature of peripheral auditory processing in insects. The complex tracheal shape of O. uninotatus also deviates from the known tube or horn shapes associated with simple band-pass or high-pass amplification of tracheal input to the tympana. Interestingly, while the anterior tympanal membrane shows directional sensitivity at conspecific call frequencies, the posterior tympanal membrane is not directional at conspecific frequencies and instead shows directionality at higher frequencies.

Microstructure-texture-mechanical properties relationship in multi-pass warm rolled Ti-6Al-4V Alloy

In the present study, high strength bulk ultrafine-grained titanium alloy Ti-6Al-4V bars were successfully processed using multi-pass warm rolling. Ti-6Al-4V bars of 12 mm diameter and several metres long were processed by multi-pass warm rolling at 650 degrees C, 700 degrees C and 750 degrees C. The highest achieved mechanical properties for Ti-6Al-4V in as rolled condition were yield strength 1191 MPa, ultimate tensile strength of 1299 MPa having an elongation of 10% when the rolling temperature was 650 degrees C. The concurrent evolution of microstructure and texture has been studied using optical microscopy, electron back scattered diffraction and x-ray diffraction. The significant improvement in mechanical properties has been attributed to the ultrafine-grained microstructure as well as the morphology of alpha and beta phases in the warm rolled specimens. The warm rolling of Ti-6Al-4V leads to formation of < 10 (1) over bar0 >alpha//RD fibre texture. This study shows that multi-pass warm rolling has potential to eliminate the costly and time consuming heat treatment steps for small diameter bar products, as the solution treated and aged (STA) properties are achievable in the as rolled condition itself. (C) 2013 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.