Design de moda: o caminho para a sustentabilidade

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Cyhalothrin increased c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus in rats, and suppressed macrophage activity in an adrenal-dependent fashion

Synthetic type II pyrethroid insecticides, such as cyhalothrin at certain dosage levels, simultaneously induce stress-like symptoms and innate immunosuppressive effects in laboratory animals. The present study was designed to further analyze the stress-like effects induced by cyhalotrin and also investigate the role of Hypothalamus-Hypophysis-Adrenal (HHA) axis and Sympathetic Nervous Systems (SNS) and their effects on macrophage activity of rats. Results showed that cyhalothrin treatment (3.0 mg/kg/day. for 7 days) increased corticosterone serum levels and c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus (PVN) but induced no changes in c-fos expression at the basolateral amygdala (BLA). Both areas were related to HHA axis and SNS activations by stress. Further analysis showed that adrenalectomy partially abrogated the suppression effects of cyhalothrin on macrophage activity and that 6-OHDA-induced peripheral symphatectyomy had no effects on this innate immune cell activity. The present observed data support and reinforce the notion that cyhalotrin at this treatment schedule induces stress-like symptoms and suggest that other factors, beyond indirect neuroadaptative responses, are necessary for the suppression effects of insecticide on innate immune response. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Discrete element modelling of the influence of lifters on power draw of tumbling mills

Crushing and grinding are the most energy intensive part of the mineral recovery process. A major part of rock size reduction occurs in tumbling mills. Empirical models for the power draw of tumbling mills do not consider the effect of lifters. Discrete element modelling was used to investigate the effect of lifter condition on the power draw of tumbling mill. Results obtained with PFC3D code show that lifter condition will have a significant influence on the power draw and on the mode of energy consumption in the mill. Relatively high lifters will consume less power than low lifters, under otherwise identical conditions. The fraction of the power that will be consumed as friction will increase as the height of the lifters decreases. This will result in less power being used for high intensity comminution caused by the impacts. The fraction of the power that will be used to overcome frictional resistance is determined by the material's coefficient of friction. Based on the modelled results, it appears that the effective coefficient of friction for in situ mill is close to 0.1. (C) 2003 Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Discrete element modelling of power draw of tumbling mills

The power required to operate large mills is typically 5-10 MW. Hence, optimisation of power consumption will have a significant impact on overall economic performance and environmental impact. Power draw modelling results using the discrete element code PFC3D have been compared with results derived from the widely used empirical Model of Morrell. This is achieved by calculating the power draw for a range of operating conditions for constant mill size and fill factor using two modelling approaches. fThe discrete element modelling results show that, apart from density, selection of the appropriate material damping ratio is critical for the accuracy of modelling of the mill power draw. The relative insensitivity of the power draw to the material stiffness allows selection of moderate stiffness values, which result in acceptable computation time. The results obtained confirm that modelling of the power draw for a vertical slice of the mill, of thickness 20% of the mill length, is a reliable substitute for modelling the full mill. The power draw predictions from PFC3D show good agreement with those obtained using the empirical model. Due to its inherent flexibility, power draw modelling using PFC3D appears to be a viable and attractive alternative to empirical models where necessary code and computer power are available.

Factors affecting adolescents’ choice of branded vs. fashionable clothing

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Zara: Marketing in Fast Fashion: A case-study

Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.

Dedicated Followers of Fashion : do toucador de Belinda ao quarto de Carlos

O presente artigo visa analisar e confrontar duas passagens que, em nossa opinião, não só patenteiam algumas semelhanças estruturais ou formais como poderão eventualmente cumprir nas obras respectivas uma função homóloga, enquanto denúncia de males (ou advertência contra perigos) sociais e morais engendrados(áveis) pelo crescimento e/ou florescimento económico(s) como o materialismo, a mundanidade e a ociosidade. A primeira passagem, extraída de The Rape of the Lock, de Alexander Pope (1688-1744), reconstitui-nos o toucador de uma recém-acordada Belinda, enquanto a segunda, colhida de Uma Família Inglesa, de Júlio Dinis (1839-71), nos franqueia as portas do quarto de um ainda adormecido Carlos Whitestone. Embora não seja evidentemente possível nem sequer desejável desenraizar por completo estas passagens dos solos textuais de onde brotaram (o poema herói-cómico de Pope e aquele que é, afinal, o único romance citadino de Júlio Dinis) nem talvez da demais produção literária dos respectivos autores, procuraremos situar-nos neste estudo ao nível restrito dos trechos, deles extravazando apenas na medida do que tivermos por útil, conveniente ou necessário.

Which communication strategy should a male luxury (fashion) brand – associated with a luxury car brand – develop, in order to increase its awareness in Europe

This work project explores how a male luxury (fashion) brand (subsidiary) that is associated with a luxury car brand (parent company) should develop its communication strategy in order to increase awareness in Europe. For this purpose a quantitative research was conducted. The aim was to find out whether the company in question had low brand awareness among European luxury consumers. Hereafter, a qualitative research revealed important insights in regard to luxury communication among male luxury consumers. Both the results of the research and the recommendations of luxury experts laid the foundation for the development of a solution-oriented communication strategy. The result of the analysis crystallizes the importance of the shared heritage and the synergistic effects, of which the subsidiary should make vast use when communicating.

Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.

“Learning-by-producing” in the fashion value chain

Proceedings da AUTEX 2015, Bucareste, Roménia.

A revolução fashion: os blogs como instrumentos de consolidação da identidade plus size

Dissertação de mestrado em Comunicação, Arte e Cultura

Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.