O desenho como ferramenta projetual no design de moda

This article intends to allocate the different fashion drawing languages used in the development stages of fashion design. To do so, it is based on the methodological guidelines for fashion design presented by Montemezzo (2003). Initially, presents a bibliographic study about the types of fashion drawing languages. Then analyzes the specificities of each language and adjust them to the steps presented by the author cited.

Cyhalothrin increased c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus in rats, and suppressed macrophage activity in an adrenal-dependent fashion

Synthetic type II pyrethroid insecticides, such as cyhalothrin at certain dosage levels, simultaneously induce stress-like symptoms and innate immunosuppressive effects in laboratory animals. The present study was designed to further analyze the stress-like effects induced by cyhalotrin and also investigate the role of Hypothalamus-Hypophysis-Adrenal (HHA) axis and Sympathetic Nervous Systems (SNS) and their effects on macrophage activity of rats. Results showed that cyhalothrin treatment (3.0 mg/kg/day. for 7 days) increased corticosterone serum levels and c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus (PVN) but induced no changes in c-fos expression at the basolateral amygdala (BLA). Both areas were related to HHA axis and SNS activations by stress. Further analysis showed that adrenalectomy partially abrogated the suppression effects of cyhalothrin on macrophage activity and that 6-OHDA-induced peripheral symphatectyomy had no effects on this innate immune cell activity. The present observed data support and reinforce the notion that cyhalotrin at this treatment schedule induces stress-like symptoms and suggest that other factors, beyond indirect neuroadaptative responses, are necessary for the suppression effects of insecticide on innate immune response. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Zara: Marketing in Fast Fashion: A case-study

Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.

Dedicated Followers of Fashion : do toucador de Belinda ao quarto de Carlos

O presente artigo visa analisar e confrontar duas passagens que, em nossa opinião, não só patenteiam algumas semelhanças estruturais ou formais como poderão eventualmente cumprir nas obras respectivas uma função homóloga, enquanto denúncia de males (ou advertência contra perigos) sociais e morais engendrados(áveis) pelo crescimento e/ou florescimento económico(s) como o materialismo, a mundanidade e a ociosidade. A primeira passagem, extraída de The Rape of the Lock, de Alexander Pope (1688-1744), reconstitui-nos o toucador de uma recém-acordada Belinda, enquanto a segunda, colhida de Uma Família Inglesa, de Júlio Dinis (1839-71), nos franqueia as portas do quarto de um ainda adormecido Carlos Whitestone. Embora não seja evidentemente possível nem sequer desejável desenraizar por completo estas passagens dos solos textuais de onde brotaram (o poema herói-cómico de Pope e aquele que é, afinal, o único romance citadino de Júlio Dinis) nem talvez da demais produção literária dos respectivos autores, procuraremos situar-nos neste estudo ao nível restrito dos trechos, deles extravazando apenas na medida do que tivermos por útil, conveniente ou necessário.

Which communication strategy should a male luxury (fashion) brand – associated with a luxury car brand – develop, in order to increase its awareness in Europe

This work project explores how a male luxury (fashion) brand (subsidiary) that is associated with a luxury car brand (parent company) should develop its communication strategy in order to increase awareness in Europe. For this purpose a quantitative research was conducted. The aim was to find out whether the company in question had low brand awareness among European luxury consumers. Hereafter, a qualitative research revealed important insights in regard to luxury communication among male luxury consumers. Both the results of the research and the recommendations of luxury experts laid the foundation for the development of a solution-oriented communication strategy. The result of the analysis crystallizes the importance of the shared heritage and the synergistic effects, of which the subsidiary should make vast use when communicating.

Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.

“Learning-by-producing” in the fashion value chain

Proceedings da AUTEX 2015, Bucareste, Roménia.

A revolução fashion: os blogs como instrumentos de consolidação da identidade plus size

Dissertação de mestrado em Comunicação, Arte e Cultura

Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

La poética del desig: amor i bogeria a l'Orlando furioso

Aquesta tesina, amb el títol "La poètica del desig. amor i bogeria a l'Orlando furioso", proposa una nova lectura del poema de Ludovico Ariosto, prenent com a objectiu l'anàlisi de la bogeria del seu protagonista, el Comte Orlando, "che per amor venne in furore e matto / d'uom che sì saggio era stimato prima". Així doncs, pretenem esbrinar per què davant de la constatació de Matteo Maria Boiardo d'un "Orlando innmorato", Ariosto va respondre amb un "Orlando furioso", narrant així "cosa non detta in prosa mai né in rima". Per arribar fins al fons de la qüestió, ens hem preguntat quins són l'origen, la manifestació textual, la dimensió i el significat del concepte de "furor" en el text; interrogants que ens han conduït cap a una bogeria amorosa que és manifestació externa d'un desig insatisfet. Un concepte que, a més a més d'evocar l"Hercules furens" d'Eurípides i Sèneca, ens remet a la teoria dels humors de Galè, al concepte de 'melancholia' d'Aristòtil i a l'eròtica platònica, al mateix temps que reprodueix els models del que Cesare Segre anomena la 'follie littéraire' característica de l'època medieval. A partir d'aquesta anàlisi s'ha interpretat el text com una apologia de les passions en la que es destrona al savi com a paradigma i model ètic, acabant així amb la imatge de l'home com a "animal rationale", situant per contra la seva "humanitas" ja no en la racionalitat (tampoc en la irracionalitat), sinó en la passionalitat, oferint així un retrat de l'ésser humà com a "animal passionalis" , una criatura intermitja en la que haurien de confluir idealment raó i passió.

Marbofloxacin achieves high concentration in pig tonsils according to a dose dependent fashion

The penetration of marbofloxacin into tonsils was assessed in fattening pigs. Two different dosages were used to treat the animals: 2 mg/kg b.w. every 24 hours during 3 days (P1 group) and 4 mg/kg b.w. every 48 hours two times (P2 group. A ratio between the mean tonsillar concentration of marbofloxacin for both doses 24 hours after the last administration (0.5 and 0.7 µgr/mL) and its MIC90 for APP (0.03 µgr/mL) was calculated. These Ratio values were 16.6 and 23.3 for P1 and P2 group.

Paraula i poètiques del desig. Tres itineraris del subjecte líric postmodern: alteritat, identitat i escriptura al l’obra de Gabriel Ferrater, Maria-Mercé Marçal i Enric Casasses

La present investigació parteix de la urgència de revisar la poesia catalana contemporània des dels paràmetres de la teoria literària que abracen l’àmbit de la representació del desig. Sota aquest paraigües teòric i la seva estricta vinculació amb les noves formulacions del subjecte líric postmodern, he proposat un estudi comparatiu entre tres grans poètiques que han marcat, cada una d’elles en el seu context socioliterari, un punt d’inflexió: Gabriel Ferrater, Maria-Mercè Marçal i Enric Casasses. Més enllà de la ruptura moderna entre escriptura i exaltació d’una subjectivitat única i monolítica, he investigat i esclarit les variables retòriques (teoria literària ) i ontològiques (discursos filosòfics) que coparticipen en la instal•lació d’un subjecte líric i un quefer poètic postmoderns. Un nou posicionament de la veu lírica que transforma la identitat textural en un procés, en una recerca. Així és que l’alteritat amorosa s’evidencia com el centre de representació i experimentació dels límits del jo líric. A partir de les aproximacions teòriques sobre la representació del desig –que des del postestructuralisme han arribat, mitjançant la crítica literària feminista, fins als nostres dies -, he establert les coordenades metodològiques que justifiquen el triangle comparatiu i m’han permès mostrar com la poesia eròticoamorosa és epicentre de la poesia i la poètica dels tres autors. L’exègesi de les seves obres ha guiat la investigació cap a l’abordatge de les construccions dels “jo” lírics, tot prenent com a centre: a) l’escriptura, obertura cap a l’Altre, b) el subjecte de l’enunciació com a subjecte desitjant, c) les representacions de l’altre/a amorós, d) les retòriques del desig, e) la recerca del plaer textual, i f)moral i poètiques. L’objectiu final ha estat dibuixar un mapa de carreteres per guiar els itineraris de l’escriptura del desig en la nostra poesia i, palesar, a mode de síntesi i d’obertura, com l’obra d’Enric Casasses recull la retòrica de l’alteritat amorosa i funda, des d’ella, la necessitat de la paraula oral i l’acció poètiques.