Design modular: Solução sustentável aplicada aos resíduos limpos na indústria do couro

ISSN 19820941

Sustentabilidade no Design: uma abordagem aos resíduos limpos das indústrias do calçado

Dissertação de mestrado em Design e Marketing

“ Da Moda ao Resíduo e do Resíduo à Moda”: um contributo sustentável no uso da pele residual na Indústria do calçado

Dissertação de mestrado em Design e Marketing

Compósito reforçado com sisal para aplicação na moda

The objective of this research is the fabrication of a composite reinforced with dyed sisal fiber and polyester matrix for application in the fields such as, fashion, clothing, interior textiles; fashion accessories are some of the examples. For the fabrication of the composite, the sisal fibers were subjected to processes such as: chemical treatment with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in the removal of impurities; bleaching for removing the yellowish color of the natural fiber and dyeing with direct dyes to confer the colors blue, green and orange. The search for new technologies ecologically correct has become a major concern in recent decades. Studies show that composite polymer reinforced by natural fibers is suitable for a large number of applications, and its use is advantageous in terms of economic and ecological. The dyed fibers were cut to a length of 30 mm, is used in the confection of webs. For this purpose, a web preparer by immersion, developed in the Laboratory of Chemical Textile of UFRN. The composite sheets measuring 300 x 300 x3 mm were molded by compression, with unsaturated orthophthalic polyester as matrix, and the samples in sizes 150 x 25 x 3 mm were cut with the aid of a laser machine, to be subjected to traction and flexion. The mechanical properties of traction and flexion in three points were performed in the Laboratory of metal and mechanical tests of Materials Engineering of UFRN. The resulting samples from the tests were evaluated in scanning electron microscope (SEM) at CTGas RN. On the basis of the analysis of the results from the mechanical tests, it was observed that the composite had good mechanical behavior, both in traction as in flexion. Furthermore, it was observed that in the water absorption test, the samples had a different percentage among themselves, this occurred due to the variation of density found in the fibre webs. The images of the SEM showed the failures from the manufacturing process and the adhesion of fibre/matrix. When the samples were prepared with the dyed fibers to be applied in fashion, the results were positive, and it can be concluded that the main objective of this work was achieved

Research on policies and institutions to support small and medium scale enterprise in the Caribbean: Trinidad adn Tobago report

The Government of Trinidad and Tobago continues to provide support to SMEs in order to enhance their international competitiveness. The increasing effects of globalization and the reality of several trade agreements require that local businesses attain and maintain a level of competitiveness which ensures their continued survival and growth. This report examines in detail the policy environment within which these enterprises operate. It also examines the role of the key implementing agencies such as the BDC and NEDCO for government’s policy on the sector and also the role of the respective line ministries. These organizations strive to deliver value added technical, financial and export promotion services to its clients on a subsidised basis. The services offered reflect five key business areas such as financing, training, technical assistance, trade assistance, business re-engineering, project management and export promotion. In the case of the BDC its services target six sectors: food and beverage, metal processing, leisure marine, including yachting, information and communication technology/electronics, printing and packaging and entertainment. These said sectors are identified by the government, on the basis of a study which was done by TIDCO, for the promotion of a cluster development strategy. In the case of NEDCO it targets the following sectors: art and craft, food and beverages, fashion and fashion accessories, culture and ecotourism, bed and breakfast operations, indigenous entertainment and light manufacturing.

The suitability of the design of handbags to the tropical climate

This work encourages the exercise of consideration, observation and critical reading of the design of handbags and the relation to the conditions imposed by tropical climate. Our purpose is to highlight some critical and conceptual thoughts on the matter of the design of fashion accessories in Brazil, ergonomics and aesthetic-functional relation. Through physical concepts is possible to propose consistents solutions compatible with the reality of the costumers living on Brazilian coast.

HATWALK/ Guerilla Millinery/ Part of the Cultural Olympiad

Stealth Visor for the Duke of Wellington Project HATWALK The 2012 Cultural Olympiad would not have been representative of London's creative industries without fashion design. Sponsored by the Mayor of London brought milliners to organise an alternative to the catwalk format , the designers brought together a Hatwalk, uniting landmark heritage statues, classical and modern, to be crowned with a new bespoke design piece each. Together forming a pedestrian navigation through the Jubilee city, the hats also invited twenty one milliners to consider the specificity of working for the great outdoors. Rigorously tested in wind tunnel laboratory to withstand hurricane wind speeds and squally shows the designs aim to bring the 'exclusive' culture of fashion accessories to the inclusive culture of international festival. Working with new technologies of engineering, such as laser measuring tools, and crane for assemblage and fitting, McLean brings new meaning to the familiar figures of national public authority. Since the storming of the Bastille in revolutionary France it has been traditional for the new order to symbolize change through attacking public statuary. In a similar vein, Hatwalk, invites spectators to reconsider the relationship between distant and lofty personages of power and the sartorial insignia through which their power is signified. Crowned with a revolutionary red ' large plexi punk neon number' the Duke of Wellington, at Wellington arch is the first in the Hatwalk exhibition. The originality of this research consists in the effects of surprise and Brechtian 'de familiarisation' resulting from the unexpected. The effects of this structural carnivalesque inversion of authorities can involve a range of reactions from the disdain of the offended to the laughter and pleasure of the surprised. This strategy of bringing the ludic element of play to the formalised authority of legitimised power is also signified through the conscious use of materials and colour in a monochrome and uniform culture of statuary. Here the difference in materials and visible surface of the design signifies the differences that need to be included within a socio political order before it may takes its place in history as being representative of the people it is entrusted to lead. This research output continues the work that led to the Hat Anthology exhibition (output 1), the Fifty Hats that Changed the World (output 2), the Jamaican Olympic team headwear design ( output 4), and is continued in the design, merchandise, accessories and avant garde artefacts of the House of Flora ( see website). The iterative process of the research brings innovation within continuity to McLean's work. It is difficult to theorise the 'rigour' that is undeniably present in a creative design praxis except in that McLean;s research outputs are always surprising and unexpected.

An integrated molecular map of yellow passion fruit based on simultaneous maximum-likelihood estimation of linkage and linkage phases

The development of genetic maps for auto-incompatible species, such as the yellow passion fruit (Passiflora edulis Sims f.flavicarpa Deg.) is restricted due to the unfeasibility of obtaining traditional mapping populations based on inbred lines. For this reason, yellow passion fruit linkage maps were generally constructed using a strategy known as two-way pseudo-testeross, based on monoparental dominant markers segregating in a 1:1 fashion. Due to the lack of information from these markers in one of the parents, two individual (parental) maps were obtained. However, integration of these maps is essential, and biparental markers can be used for such an operation. The objective of our study was to construct an integrated molecular map for a full-sib population of yellow passion fruit combining different loci configuration generated from amplified fragment length polymorphisms (AFLPs) and microsatellite markers and using a novel approach based on simultaneous maximum-likelihood estimation of linkage and linkage phases, specially designed for outcrossing species. Of the total number of loci, approximate to 76%, 21%, 0.7%, and 2.3% did segregate in 1:1, 3:1, 1:2:1, and 1:1:1:1 ratios, respectively. Ten linkage groups (LGs) were established with a logarithm of the odds (LOD) score >= 5.0 assuming a recombination fraction : <= 0.35. On average, 24 markers were assigned per LG, representing a total map length of 1687 cM, with a marker density of 6.9 cM. No markers were placed as accessories on the map as was done with previously constructed individual maps.

Cyhalothrin increased c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus in rats, and suppressed macrophage activity in an adrenal-dependent fashion

Synthetic type II pyrethroid insecticides, such as cyhalothrin at certain dosage levels, simultaneously induce stress-like symptoms and innate immunosuppressive effects in laboratory animals. The present study was designed to further analyze the stress-like effects induced by cyhalotrin and also investigate the role of Hypothalamus-Hypophysis-Adrenal (HHA) axis and Sympathetic Nervous Systems (SNS) and their effects on macrophage activity of rats. Results showed that cyhalothrin treatment (3.0 mg/kg/day. for 7 days) increased corticosterone serum levels and c-fos immunoreactivity at the paraventricular nucleus of the hypothalamus (PVN) but induced no changes in c-fos expression at the basolateral amygdala (BLA). Both areas were related to HHA axis and SNS activations by stress. Further analysis showed that adrenalectomy partially abrogated the suppression effects of cyhalothrin on macrophage activity and that 6-OHDA-induced peripheral symphatectyomy had no effects on this innate immune cell activity. The present observed data support and reinforce the notion that cyhalotrin at this treatment schedule induces stress-like symptoms and suggest that other factors, beyond indirect neuroadaptative responses, are necessary for the suppression effects of insecticide on innate immune response. (C) 2008 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

A influência dos bogs de moda no processo de decisão de compra

As redes sociais, nas quais se incluem os blogs, vieram alterar a forma como as pessoas escolhem os bens e serviços que pretendem adquirir. Ao permitirem (entre outras coisas) a emissão para o mundo de opiniões sobre produtos e serviços, as redes sociais aumentaram a quantidade de informação pré-compra disponível, bem como diversificaram o tipo de fontes que é possível consultar durante este processo. Um exemplo flagrante deste fenómeno em Portugal, e no resto do Mundo, são os blogs de moda. Os blogs de moda são sites pessoais utilizados para a publicação de conteúdos relacionados com o universo da moda (Fernandes, 2013), podendo incluir-se aqui os acessórios, a cosmética, o exercício físico e os estilos de vida (Moura, 2013; Kulmala, 2011). Diversos estudos começam hoje a evidenciar que este tipo de sites exerce influência sobre o processo de decisão de compra dos seus seguidores (Kulmala, 2011; Fernandes, 2013). Neste sentido, foi objectivo deste estudo perceber em que medida os blogs de moda influenciam os processos de decisão de compra dos portugueses. Para este efeito, foi efectuada uma revisão bibliográfica sobre os tópicos em estudo (processo de decisão de compra, blogs de moda e respectiva influência), seguido de um estudo empírico, tendo sido usado o inquérito por questionário, procedendo-se depois à análise dos resultados. Os resultados obtidos permitiram concluir que a pesquisa de informação é, na amostra em estudo, a etapa do processo de decisão de compra mais influenciada pelo conteúdo publicado nos blogs de moda. Concluiu-se também que esta é uma das principais motivações dos inquiridos na consulta de blogs de moda. Verifica-se, portanto, que os blogs de moda funcionam hoje como plataformas de eWOM, ao mesmo tempo que os seus autores ascendem a líderes de opinião.

The international expansion strategy of Striyah in Poland

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Zara: Marketing in Fast Fashion: A case-study

Zara was founded in 1975 by Amancio Ortega Gaona, soon becoming the largest and most successful chain of the Galician group Inditex (Industria de Diseño Textil) and a pioneer of the rising fashion category of Fast Fashion. Its innovative vertically-integrated strategies, combined with its emphasis on quality and demand-based offer have shaped the world of fashion and brought forth many questions on its future sustainability and growth. Zara has always relied on its store network for advertising its product offer; allowing its garments to “speak for themselves”. With the continued pressure felt in the industry, management has pressed some concerns about future company growth and creative, innovating solutions must be implemented to guarantee Zara’s future growth. The case-study narrative focuses on these issues and leaves readers with an open question regarding what decision to implement.