Fashion communication: a way to change comsumption behaviour towards ethical fashion

In view of the major social and environmental problems, with which we are faced nowadays, we noticed a certain absence of values in society, where man draws many more resources than nature can replace in the short or medium term. Within the framework of fashion emerges the ethical fashion as a movement in this direction, intending to change this current paradigm. Ethical fashion encompasses different concepts such as fair trade, sustainability, working conditions, raw materials, social responsibility and the protection of animals. This study aims to determine which type of communication are fashion brands using in this context, and if this communication aims at educating the consumer for a more ethical consumer behavior. For this study were selected 44 fashion brands associated with the Ethical Trade Initiative. The method used for the research development was content analysis for which first was made a data collection of the information provided on the websites and social networks of the selected fashion brands. The data was analyzed taking into account the quality and type of information published related to ethical fashion, for which an ordinal scale was created as a way of measuring and comparing results.

Consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. Examining beliefs about fashion industry and attitudes towards ethical fashion

Globalization and the developments of supply chain have made inexpensive labor and the low production costs of developing countries available to businesses worldwide. Unfortunately, these developments have also led to the exploitation of human and natural resources. The increasing supply of cheap and fashionable clothing has created a contradiction between consumers’ concerns for sustainability and their purchase behavior in the fashion industry. Since the uncovering of several sweatshop scandals in the 1980’s and 1990’s ethical fashion brands have started to emerge. Ethical fashion has sparked the interest of consumers and studies have shown promising positive attitudes towards it. However, these attitudes have failed to translate into action and purchase behavior of ethical fashion has not reached the expectations. In order to translate the positive attitudes into buying companies must understand consumer’s motivations and reasons behind the purchase decision. The objective of this study is to understand the antecedents behind young consumer’s purchase intention of ethical fashion. The study is based on the theory of planned behavior which has been widely used to study consumer behavior and purchase decisions. The theory has also been used in ethical decision-making and fashion context before. According to the theory, in order to understand purchase intentions consumer’s attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were studied. The theory also states that attitudes are formed from beliefs, thus, consumer’s beliefs about the fashion industry were studied. To contribute to existing research, the effect of sweatshop issues and environmental issues were compared. The data was collected from university students (n=617) with an online survey. The results were analyzed by statistical methods and they revealed that young Finnish consumers hold positive attitudes towards buying ethical fashion as well as positive purchase intentions of ethical fashion. A strong relationship was found between positive attitudes and positive purchase intentions. Also, the more negative consumers’ beliefs of the fashion industry were the more positive their attitudes toward buying ethical fashion were. In contradiction to previous research this study revealed that environmental issues had greater effect on attitudes than sweatshop issues. Interesting differences between consumers were found depending on their field of education. Students from humanities and social sciences held the most negative beliefs as well as most positive attitudes and purchase intentions of ethical fashion.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Production et articulation des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter

Ce mémoire explore les productions et les articulations des appartenances au mouvement Slow Fashion sur Twitter. En réaction au modèle actuel prédominant du Fast Fashion, basé sur une surproduction et une surconsommation des vêtements, le Slow Fashion sensibilise les différents acteurs du secteur de la mode à avoir une vision plus consciente des impacts de leurs pratiques sur les travailleurs, les communautés et les écosystèmes (Fletcher, 2007) et propose une décélération des cycles de production et de consommation des vêtements. L’enjeu de cette recherche est de montrer que le Slow Fashion se dessine notamment à travers les relations entres les différents acteurs sur Twitter et que l'ensemble de ces interactions prend la forme d'un rhizome, c’est-à-dire d’un système dans lequel les éléments qui le composent ne suivent aucune arborescence, aucune hiérarchie et n’émanent pas d’un seul point d’origine. (Deleuze & Guattari, 1976) Sur Twitter, les appartenances au Slow Fashion font surface, se connectent les unes aux autres par des liens de nature différente. Consommateurs, designers, entreprises, journalistes, etc., ces parties prenantes construisent collectivement le Slow Fashion comme mouvement alternatif à la mode mainstream actuelle. Mon cadre théorique s’est construit grâce à une analyse de la littérature des concepts de mode, d’identité et d’appartenance afin de mieux appréhender le contexte dans lequel le mouvement a émergé. Puis, j’ai également réalisé une étude exploratoire netnographique sur Twitter au cours de laquelle j’ai observé, tout en y participant, les interactions sur la plateforme abordant le Slow Fashion et/ou la mode éthique. Publiée sur ce blogue (http://belongingtoslowfashion.blogspot.ca), cette « creative presentation of research » (Chapman & Sawchuk, 2012) ne constitue pas une histoire présentant les prétendues origines de ce mouvement mais plutôt une photographie partielle à un certain moment du Slow Fashion. Construite tel un rhizome, elle n’a ni début, ni fin, ni hiérarchie. J’invite alors les lectrices/lecteurs à choisir n’importe quelle entrée et à délaisser toute logique linéaire et déductive. Cette exploration sera guidée par des liens hypertextes ou des annotations qui tisseront des connexions avec d’autres parties ou feront émerger d’autres questionnements. Il s’agit d’offrir une introduction aux enjeux que pose le Slow Fashion, d’ouvrir la voie à d’autres recherches et d’autres réflexions, ou encore de sensibiliser sur ce sujet.

Moda ética: a consciencialização através da comunicação

Dissertação de mestrado em Design e Comunicação de Moda

Moda ética como ventaja competitiva de una empresa colombiana en el mercado francés

Oletti es una empresa Colombiana cuyo mercado objetivo es la mujer inicialmente francesa, entre los 15 y los 35 años, con un estrato medio que busca satisfacer la necesidad de sentirse cómoda, segura, elegante y moderna al usar productos accesorios a su vestimenta diaria. Además de esto es una mujer actualizada y consiente de la problemática ambiental, que prefiere los productos étnicos y latinoamericanos porque éstos son consecuentes con su estilo de vida. La amplitud que maneja el producto es: aretes, collares y pulseras, con precios accesibles al consumidor que oscilan entre los 6 y los 12 euros, realizados en cáscara de naranja y materiales naturales que ayudan a preservar el medio ambiente. El siguiente trabajo es una acercamiento de cómo una empresa Colombiana como lo es Oletti, puede hacer de la moda ética una ventaja competitiva en el mercado francés.

Contribuyendo al reto de la sostenibilidad: el sistema producto- servicio en la industria de la moda rápida

El presente proyecto de grado se inscribe bajo el proyecto de Responsabilidad Social Empresarial de la línea de investigación de Realidad Empresarial de la Facultad de Administración de la Universidad del Rosario. El problema de investigación surge de dos problemas actuales, que convergen en la insostenibilidad a largo y mediano plazo de la manera en que se hacen la mayoría de los negocios hoy en día. El primer problema, es el de suficiencia, se evidencia desde el punto de vista del consumidor, el cual pareciera estar diseñado para comprar y acumular objetos y cosas que luego de un tiempo irán a parar a la basura. El segundo problema es el modelo de negocio que extrae recursos, los transforma, los comercializa de manera repetitiva y obliga al cliente a seguir comprando, olvidando que la mayoría de cosas que produce, terminan en el basurero. La deficiencia actual del consumismo insostenible y del diseño que no piensa en las generaciones futuras son dos caras de la misma moneda. Por eso es que se estudia el problema desde la perspectiva tanto del consumidor, como del productor. Las tendencias internacionales relacionadas con la sostenibilidad están llevando a los negocios por una nueva senda, la cual les dará ventajas competitivas a los adoptadores tempranos. A raíz de los problemas planteados y con el objetivo de encontrar la sostenibilidad empresarial, se estudia una posible solución para cada actor del problema. Por el lado del consumidor, se analiza la teoría que gira alrededor del consumo responsable y de cómo los consumidores tienen el poder de causar un efecto positivo con lo que mejor saben hacer: comprando (y eligiendo que comprar). Por el lado del productor se estudia un nuevo modelo de negocios llamado el sistema producto-servicio, el cual se enfoca a satisfacer necesidades de los clientes por medio de una combinación de prestación de servicios y facilitación de productos, en vez de la comercialización de estos. Es decir que en vez de vender cosas que los consumidores quieran acumular (problema de suficiencia), se les vende soluciones que satisfagan sus necesidades, reteniendo la compañía la propiedad sobre los productos que integran al servicio. Se estudia también de que maneras este modelo particular de sistemas producto-servicio puede ser recibido por los consumidores de hoy en día, tan acostumbrados al modelo actual. Se quiere explorar el sistema de productos y servicio como una alternativa empresarial perdurable que solucione los retos ambientales del siglo XXI. Para poder probar la viabilidad de este hipotético modelo que cambia los patrones de interacción de las empresas con los usuarios, se plantea una idea de negocio que integre productos y servicios para satisfacer las necesidades del cliente. Se escogió un área viii caracterizada por ser de las más consumistas y acumuladoras en cuanto al volumen de compras anual de los clientes: el negocio de la ropa. Y no solo cualquier tipo de ropa, sino el de la moda rápida, un modelo que obliga a los consumidores a comprar ropa con una frecuencia aún mayor. Se hizo esto con el objetivo de probar que el modelo propuesto puede funcionar inclusive bajo los supuestos más “consumistas” que existen hoy en día.

On the cross-road of ethical- and fashion consumerism: intentions of pink ribbon campaign consumers

Tutkielman tavoitteena oli selvittää Roosanauha kampanjan tuotteiden ostoon liittyvää aikeen muodostumista kuluttajilla. Lisäksi tavoitteena oli selvittää onko aikeen muodostumisessa eroja uuden pinkin värin tai lahjoitus ominaisuuden osalta. Tutkimus toteutettiin sähköisenä kyselynä, jota analysoitiin tilastollisin menetelmin, lähinnä korrelaatioiden avulla. Tutkimus ei saavuttanut toivottua päämääräänsä lähinnä huonoksi jääneen vastausten kokonaismäärän vuoksi.Joitakin suuntaa antavia tuloksia pystyttiin kuitenkin tunnistamaan. Tuloksissa oli viitteitä lahjoitusominaisuuden tärkeydestä kuluttajille sekä vaaleanpunaiseen väriin positiivisesti asennoitumisesta. Kampanjan jatkoa ajatellen markkinoijien on syytä huomata tuloksissa ilmennyt värin tärkeä rooli sekä lahjoitusominaisuudelle painottunut sosiaalisten normien vahvuus.

Contribution to an efficient transmission of information to the textile fashion consumer and the influence in sustainable attitudes

The concepts involved in sustainable textile fashion, demanding good knowledge about raw materials, processes, end use properties and circuits amongst others, are able to determine the way the textile product is designed and the behavior of the consumer, regarding life style and buying decisions. The textile product`s life integrates raw materials, their processing, distribution, use by the consumer and destination of the product after useful lifetime, this is, his complete life cycle. It is very important to recognize the power of the consumer to influence parameters related to sustainability, namely when he decides how, when and why he buys and afterwards by the attitudes taken during and after use. The conscious act of consumption involves ethical, ecological and technical knowledge in which the concern is overall lifecycle of the fashion product and not exclusively aesthetic and symbolic values strongly related with its ephemeral nature. The present work proposes the classification of textile products by means of an innovative label aiming to establish a rating related to the Life of Fashion Products, by using parameters considered with especial impact in lifecycle, as textile fibers, processing conditions, generated wastes, commercialization circuits, durability and cleaning procedures. This label for sustainable fashion products aims to assist the stakeholders with informed attitudes and correct decisions in order to promote the objectives of sustainable fashion near designers, consumers and industrial experts.

The need for adequate ethical guidelines for qualitative health research

O artigo discute a adequação de aplicar a Resolução 196/961 do Conselho Nacional de Saúde - CNS, às pesquisas qualitativas em saúde, que se baseiam em paradigmas não positivistas. Nestas pesquisas, freqüentemente as decisões sobre a pesquisa são tomadas conjuntamente com a comunidade em estudo. Há a preocupação de favorecer a justiça e a mudança social. E, uma vez que a subjetividade pode ser considerada seu instrumento privilegiado, busca-se o balanço entre objetividade e subjetividade, e discute-se como superar a visão do pesquisador. Estudamos o âmbito de aplicação e a concepção de pesquisa presentes nas diretrizes éticas internacionais e brasileiras. Verificamos que elas adotam uma concepção positivista de pesquisa, que prevê: teste de hipótese, definição prévia de todos os procedimentos pelo pesquisador e neutralidade do pesquisador e do conhecimento produzido. Serão apresentadas algumas características das pesquisas qualitativas, as implicações éticas da maneira como a pesquisa qualitativa é concebida nos paradigmas não positivistas e um breve histórico dos documentos sobre ética em pesquisa. Concluímos que não é adequado analisar estas pesquisas com base nestes documentos e sugerimos a elaboração de diretrizes específicas

The ethical component of professional competence in nursing: An analysis

The purpose of this article is to initiate a philosophical discussion about the ethical component of professional competence in nursing from the perspective of Brazilian nurses. Specifically, this article discusses professional competence in nursing practice in the Brazilian health context, based on two different conceptual frameworks. The first framework is derived from the idealistic and traditional approach while the second views professional competence through the lens of historical and dialectical materialism theory. The philosophical analyses show that the idealistic view of professional competence differs greatly from practice. Combining nursing professional competence with philosophical perspectives becomes a challenge when ideals are opposed by the reality and implications of everyday nursing practice.

Clinical relationships and ethical problems in primary care, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil

Objectives: Main Objective: to identify ethical problems in primary care according to nurses` and doctors` perceptions. Secondary Objective: to know ethical issues of patient-professional relationships in primary care. Design: Synthesis to integrate and reinterpret primary results of qualitative studies. Setting: Primary healthcare centers, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil. Participants and/or context: Incidental sample of 34 nurses and 36 medical doctors working in primary healthcare centers selected by convenience. Methods: Individual, semi-structured interviews to identity situations considered as sources of ethical problems. The sample is socially representative of primary care health centers and professionals. Data collection assured discourse saturation. Hermeneutic-dialectical discourse analysis was used to study the results. Results: Patient-professional relationships and team work were the main sources of ethical problems. The most important problems were patient information, privacy, confidentiality, interpersonal relationship, linkage and patient autonomy. These issues reflect the recent changes in clinical relation ships and show the peculiarities of primary care with its continuous care which lasts a long time. Healthcare involves multiprofessional team work in the midst of the patient claims for autonomy. Good care of patients needs requires a relationship based on communication and cooperation, and includes feelings and values, with communication skills. Conclusions: Ethical problems in primary care are common situations. For quality and humane primary care the relationship should consist of dialogue, trust and cooperation. (C) 2009 Elsevier Espana, S.L. All rights reserved.