Morphodynamics of structurally controlled headland-bay beaches in southeastern Brazil: A review

This paper presents a comprehensive review on the interaction between hydrodynamic processes, beach morphology and sedimentology at large scale coastal behaviour along the coastline of Santa Catarina, between Laguna and Sao Francisco Island, a microtidal east coast swell environment with headland and bay geomorphologies. The parabolic bay shape equation has proven to be a convenient and practical tool for studying the stability of the headland-bay beaches, tombolos, and salients in Santa Catarina. The beaches exhibit different patterns of sediment removal as a function of the degree of beach curvature. In highly curved beaches, there is a well-developed shadow zone and a range of morphodynamic conditions, from a sheltered low-energy beach adjacent to the downdrift headland to a high-energy exposed beach on the straight end of the headland-bay beach. The less curved beaches instead, tend to show more uniform behaviour since they are directly exposed to incident waves. There is no obvious relationship between average wave height and mean grain size, showing the importance of sediment source to characterize the sedimentary distribution patterns in the study area. The analysis of beaches showed that beach morphodynamics and sequence profiles for a bay-headland coast in a microtidal east coast environment is a function of geological inheritance (e.g., distance between headlands and orientation, nearshore and inner shelf morphology, coastal plain morphology, and sediment source), and hydrodynamic factors (wave conditions, oceanic wave exposure and relative tidal range). (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Daily morphological changes determined by high-energy events on an embayed beach: a qualitative model

This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south-eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short-term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK-GPS (real-time kinematics global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate-to-high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra-tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross-shore erosion. Copyright (C) 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Swimming between the flags: A preliminary exploration of the influences on Australians’ intentions to swim between the flags at patrolled beaches

Swimming at patrolled beaches reduces the likelihood of drownings and near-drownings. The present study tested the theory of planned behaviour (TPB), with the addition of risk perceptions, in predicting people’s intentions to swim between the flags at patrolled beaches. We examined also the predictors of people’s willingness to swim [1] up to 10 metres and [2] more than 10 metres outside of the patrol flags. Participants (N = 526) completed measures of attitudes, subjective norm, perceived behavioural control (PBC), intentions/willingness, and both objective and subjective risk perceptions. Two weeks later, a sub-sample of participants reported on their beach swimming behaviour for the previous fortnight. Attitude and subjective norm predicted intentions to swim between and willingness to swim outside of the flags. Age and PBC influenced willingness to swim beyond the flags. Objective risk predicted willingness to swim beyond the flags (both distances) while subjective risk predicted willingness to swim up to 10 metres outside the flags. People’s intentions to swim between the flags were correlated with their behaviour at follow-up. This study provides a preliminary investigation into an important safety behaviour and identifies factors to target when promoting safe swimming behaviours to prevent drowning deaths on Australian beaches.

Feeling a little Blue? : Boofheads, bodies, and beaches

Pat Grant’s graphic novel Blue (2012) tells two stories about the impact of a newly migrant group on a small coastal Australian town. The wider story explores the wholesale effects of a previously unknown population joining an existing, culturally homogenous community. These broad social images are used to contextualise the more immediate story of three youths who are disenfranchised within the pre-existing community, but who can claim social enfranchisement by alienating the new members of the community. That the migrant population is depicted literally as aliens emphasises Blue’s participation in a wider conversation about citizenship and empathy. However, Blue does not necessarily seek to provoke a particular emotional response in its readers. Rather, in following three characters who lack what Nussbaum calls “narrative imagination” in their pursuit of good surfing or visceral entertainment—of beaches or bodies—Blue explores the means and consequences of refusing intersubjective affect. This is most powerfully rendered by the main characters’ ultimate avoidance of, and fictions about, a dead body they have wagged school to see. At the very moment of a person becoming a true object—a corpse—the meaning of objectifying people is revealed; the young protagonists seem to recognise this fact, and thus retreat from the affective scene which nonetheless informs Blue as a whole.

Keeping international visitors safe on Australian beaches : informing the content of surf safety messages

In Australia, international tourists/visitors are one of the highest risk groups for drowning at beaches. Swimming in patrolled areas, between the flags, reduces the risk of drowning with most drownings occuring outside these areas. There is a need to understand beliefs which influence the extent to which international tourists/visitors intend to swim between the flags. The theory of planned behaviour (TPB) and, in particular, the indirect beliefs which underpin constructs in the model, represent a means of determining what factors influence this intention. The current study compared international visitors/tourists as having either low or high intentions to swim between the flags on a range of behavioural, normative, and control beliefs. A series of MANOVAs revealed significant differences between the groups in all three of the beliefs. The findings provide insight into potential foci for message content for use in educational campaigns aimed at keeping international visitors safe on Australian beaches.

Social dimensions of sea turtle protection in Orissa, India: Case study of Gahirmatha (marine) Wildlife Sanctuary and the nesting beaches of Rushikulya and Debi

pdf has 37p.

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches

Some problems of edge waves and standing waves on beaches are examined.

The nonlinear interaction of a wave normally incident on a sloping beach with a subharmonic edge wave is studied. A two-timing expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to obtain the modulation equations which describe the evolution of the waves. It is shown how large amplitude edge waves are produced; and the results of the theory are compared with some recent laboratory experiments.

Traveling edge waves are considered in two situations. First, the full linear theory is examined to find the finite depth effect on the edge waves produced by a moving pressure disturbance. In the second situation, a Stokes' expansion is used to discuss the nonlinear effects in shallow water edge waves traveling over a bottom of arbitrary shape. The results are compared with the ones of the full theory for a uniformly sloping bottom.

The finite amplitude effects for waves incident on a sloping beach, with perfect reflection, are considered. A Stokes' expansion is used in the full nonlinear theory to find the corrections to the dispersion relation for the cases of normal and oblique incidence.

Finally, an abstract formulation of the linear water waves problem is given in terms of a self adjoint but nonlocal operator. The appropriate spectral representations are developed for two particular cases.

Shoal manipulation as an effective solution to site specific beach management, examples from three South Carolina beaches

Soft engineering solutions are the current standard for addressing coastal erosion in the US. In South Carolina, beach nourishment from offshore sand deposits and navigation channels has mostly replaced construction of seawalls and groins, which were common occurrences in earlier decades. Soft engineering solutions typically provide a more natural product than hard solutions, and also eliminate negative impacts to adjacent areas which are often associated with hard solutions. A soft engineering solution which may be underutilized in certain areas is shoal manipulation. (PDF contains 4 pages)

An introduction to the 4-beaches survey and the Stakeholder Workshops

1) The 4-beaches survey was the first of its kind on Lake Victoria. Drawing on Participatory Rural Appraisal (PRA) techniques, four landing sites around the lake were selected for long-term monitoring from March 2000 through to October 2001. 2)Held in all the 3 riparian countries of Lake Victoria the stakeholders' workshops aimed to assess the necessity of fisheries management for Lake Victoria and to identify who the stakeholders in fisheries management would be.

Methodologies of the 4-beaches Survey and Stakeholder Workshops

As it is clearly indicated in the title of this book section, it overviews the methodologies used in the 4-beaches Survey and in the various Stakeholders' Workshops held in all the three riparian countries of the Lake Victoria.

The 4-beaches survey in Uganda: Nkombe Beach

This paper analyses the location, potentialities and set-backs of Nkombe Beach, the landing site chosen in Uganda for the 4-beaches survey.

Ecology and production in two sandy beaches of Goa. Part (A) Distribution of bacteria in Colva and Siridaon in relation to certain environmental parameters

Qualitative and quantitative studies on the bacterial flora of two beaches viz., Colva and Siridaon at high tide, mid-tide and low tide levels during the pre-monsoon period were made. Estimations of important nutrients, like inorganic phosphates and nitrates and organic carbon have been made and correlation with the bacterial counts is being attempted. Definite correlation between bacterial population and organic carbon is seen however, no correlation is observed between bacterial counts and other physicochemical parameters.