991 resultados para Aesthetic effect


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Integran este número de la revista ponencias presentadas en Studia Hispanica Medievalia VIII : Actas de las X Jornadas Internacionales de Literatura Española Medieval, 2011, y de Homenaje al Quinto Centenario del Cancionero General de Hernando del Castillo.

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Integran este número de la revista ponencias presentadas en Studia Hispanica Medievalia VIII: Actas de las IX Jornadas Internacionales de Literatura Española Medieval, 2008, y de Homenaje al Quinto Centenario de Amadis de Gaula.

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Analisar a ficção Água Viva, de Clarice Lispector, é o desafio desta dissertação, que integra autor, texto e leitor em uma discussão acerca de experiência estética e estrutura textual. Partindo de conceitos desenvolvidos pela Teoria do Efeito Estético, de Wolfgang Iser, o objetivo a ser atingido é o de identificar as ferramentas utilizadas pela autora Clarice Lispector que fazem de seu texto potência estética a ser desencadeada pelo leitor no ato da leitura. Ao investigar a estrutura desta obra, encontram-se elementos que tornam vulneráveis concepções pré-estabelecidas acerca da literatura, abrindo-se em vazios constitutivos que convidam o leitor a participar da criação de significações e da experimentação dos sentidos. A aproximação entre texto e artes plásticas, principalmente à pintura, tem forte presença nesta obra, que provoca a formação de imagens no momento do contato com o texto, acontecimento em que se fundem tempo e espaço para a irrupção do instante-já. Procurou-se, ainda, identificar tendências comuns entre a produção deste texto de Clarice Lispector e os questionamentos presentes em outras manifestações artísticas da época, notadamente quanto ao caráter transitório que a arte dos anos 70 assume, fazendo com que o próprio movimento, a própria transformação, tornem-se estrutura da arte de então

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The focus of this thesis is the discussion of stories from the fairy tales genre in reading classes of Children´s Literature. Its main purpose is to investigate the argumentative action in the mediation pedagogic process.The evidence from this study is that the argumentative action is a fundamental component of teacher´s mediation as far as story discussion is concerned. The concept of mediation in this thesis comes from principles of interacionist Psychology articulated with THE theory of argumentation. It is understood that argumentative action is a process that objectives to obtain and to intensify the interlocuter´s adhesion through speech. The analysis of the story discussion activity is based on Psycholinguistic, particularly on the study of prevision ability; on the Theory of reception with special reference to the theory of the aesthetic effect, which considers the reader´s reactions and reader´s replies to the text; and on sociocognitive conflict study highlighting conflicts modalities brought up by the discussion of texts. The corpus analysed is composed by discussion episodes of stories from reading classes of Children´s Literature realized through participative observation.The subjects were children aged five-six years old from a public pre-school located in Natal-RN, Brazil. The study highlights mediation acts of argumentative nature such as direct question; illustrations from the book; rereading that were used by the teacher-researcher in story discussion. Among its conclusions it is revealed that argumentative action in stories discussion favors and intensifies the agreement of children´s to the activity. It increases the interaction between text and reader; it favours children´s organization and explicitation of their thoughts. The analysed material shows children´s exposing their ability to argue when having adequade scaffolding by an argumentative mediator the teacher

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

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Pós-graduação em Agronomia - FEIS

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Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

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Pós-graduação em Letras - IBILCE

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Taking as a starting point the reflection on the ornament, is delineated an interpretative analysis of delimitation between art and design in the extent of the aesthetics. Presupposing the ornament as an elementary and universal form of the all aesthetics’ manifestations, trying to work, through recent contributions and in an unified way, concepts regarding the aesthetics in parallel with the phenomenon of the perception. The ornament as element previously “ordered” front to the organization need that the interpretation demands, it constitutes fertile philosophical instrument, for all the art forms and of design, which seeks to provide an aesthetic sensation. Returned to the thoughtful function, the ornament has as essential purpose to stimulate the aesthetic experimentation, capable to induce the perception to subtler states of conscience similar of to the ecstasy, where the spirit from whom contemplates, can live experiences of extreme freedom and intense pleasure. . Establishing semiotics foundations capable of evidencing a function anagogic-therapeutics in the action of conceiving and to meditating, alternately, an object with function strictly ornamental (aesthetics), also intending the reflection of moral stamp on the ornamental concept of the decency as conciliatory solution in the intersection between art and design, concerning the creativity of the formative process.

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La tesis “1950 En torno al Museo Louisiana 1970” analiza varias obras relacionadas con el espacio doméstico, que se realizaron entre 1950 y 1970 en Dinamarca, un periodo de esplendor de la Arquitectura Moderna. Tras el aislamiento y restricciones del conflicto bélico que asoló Europa, los jóvenes arquitectos daneses, estaban deseosos por experimentar nuevas ideas de procedencia internacional, favorecidos por diferentes circunstancias, encuentran el mejor campo de ensayo en el espacio doméstico. La mejor arquitectura doméstica en Dinamarca, de aquel periodo, debe entenderse como un sistema compuesto por diferentes autores, que tienen en común muchas más similitudes que diferencias, se complementan unos a otros. Para la comprensión y el entendimiento de ello se hace necesario el estudio de varias figuras y edificios, que completen este sistema cuya investigación está escasamente desarrollada. La tesis propone un viaje para conocer los nombres de algunos de sus protagonistas, que mostraron con su trabajo, que tradición y vanguardia no estarán reñidas. El objetivo es desvelar las claves de la Modernidad Danesa, reconocer, descubrir y recuperar el legado de algunos de sus protagonistas en el ámbito doméstico, cuya lección se considera de total actualidad. Una arquitectura que asume las aportaciones extranjeras con moderación y crítica, cuya íntima relación con la tradición arquitectónica y la artesanía propias, será una de sus notas especiales. Del estudio contrastado de varios proyectos y versiones, se obtienen valores comunes entre sus autores, al igual que se descubren sus afinidades o diferencias respecto a los mismos asuntos; que permitirán comprender sus actuaciones según las referencias e influencias, y definir las variables que configuran sus espacios arquitectónicos. La línea de conexión entre los edificios elegidos será su particular relación con la naturaleza y el lugar en que se integran. La fachada, lugar donde se negociará la relación entre el interior y el paisaje, será un elemento entendido de un modo diferente en cada uno de ellos, una relación que se extenderá en todas ellas, más allá de su perímetro. La investigación se ha estructurado en seis capítulos, que van precedidos de una Introducción. En el capítulo primero, se estudian y se señalan los antecedentes, las figuras y edificios más relevantes de la Tradición Danesa, para la comprensión y el esclarecimiento de algunas de las claves de su Modernidad en el campo de la Arquitectura, que se produce con una clara intención de encontrar su propia identidad y expresión. Esta Modernidad floreciente se caracteriza por la asimilación de otras culturas extranjeras desde la moderación, con un punto de vista crítico, y encuentra sus raíces ancladas a la tradición arquitectónica y la artesanía propia, que fragua en la aparición de un ideal común con enorme personalidad y que hoy se valora como una auténtica aportación de una cultura considerada entonces periférica. Se mostrará el debate y el camino seguido por las generaciones anteriores, a las obras análizadas. Las sensibilidades por lo vernáculo y lo clásico, que aparentemente son contradictorias, dominaran el debate con la misma veracidad y respetabilidad. La llamada tercera generación por Sigfried Giedion reanudará la práctica entre lo clásico y lo vernáculo, apoyados en el espíritu del trabajo artesanal y de la tradición, con el objetivo de conocer del acto arquitectónico su “la verdad” y “la esencia original”. El capítulo segundo, analiza la casa Varming, de 1953, situada en un área residencial de Gentofte, por Eva y Nils Koppel, que reinterpreta la visión de Asplund de un paisaje interior continuación del exterior, donde rompen la caja de ladrillo macizo convencional propia de los años 30. Es el ejemplo más poderoso de la unión de tradición e innovación en su obra residencial. Sus formas sobrias entre el Funcionalismo Danés y la Modernidad se singularizarán por su abstracción y volúmenes limpios que acentúan el efecto de su geometría, prismática y brutalista. El desplazamiento de los cuerpos que lo componen, unos sobre otros, generan un ritmo, que se producirá a otras escalas, ello unido a las variaciones de sus formas y a la elección de sus materiales, ladrillo y madera, le confieren a la casa un carácter orgánico. El edificio se ancla a la tierra resolviéndose en diferentes niveles tras el estudio del lugar y su topografía. El resultado es una versión construida del paisaje, en la cual el edificio da forma al lugar y ensalza la experiencia del escenario natural. La unidad de las estructuras primitivas, parece estar presente. Constituye un ejemplo de la “La idea de Promenade de Asplund”, el proyecto ofrece diferentes recorridos, permitiendo su propia vivencia de la casa, que ofrece la posibilidad vital de decidir. El capítulo tercero trata sobre el pabellón de invitados de Niels Bohr de 1957, situado un área boscosa, en Tisvilde Hegn, fue el primer edificio del arquitecto danés Vilhelm Wohlert. Arraigado a la Tradición Danesa, representa una renovación basada en la absorción de influencias extranjeras: la Arquitectura Americana y la Tradición Japonesa. La caja de madera, posada sobre un terreno horizontal, tiene el carácter sensible de un organismo vivo, siempre cambiante según las variaciones de luz del día o temperatura. Cuando se abre, crea una prolongación del espacio interior, que se extiende a la naturaleza circundante, y se expande hacia el espacio exterior, permitiendo su movilización. Se establece una arquitectura de flujos. Hay un interés por la materia, su textura y el efecto emocional que emana. Las proporciones y dimensiones del edificio están reguladas por un módulo, que se ajusta a la medida del hombre, destacando la gran unidad del edificio. La llave se su efecto estético está en su armonía y equilibrio, que transmiten serenidad y belleza. El encuentro con la naturaleza es la lección más básica del proyecto, donde un mundo de relaciones es amable al ser humano. El capítulo cuarto, analiza el proyecto del Museo Louisiana de 1958, en Humlebæk, primer proyecto de la pareja de arquitectos daneses Jørgen Bo y Vilhelm Wohlert. La experiencia en California de Wohlert donde será visitado por Bo, será trascendental para el desarrollo de Louisiana, donde la identidad Danesa se fusiona con la asimilación de otras culturas, la arquitectura de Frank Lloyd Wright, la del área de la Bahía y la Tradición Japonesa principalmente. La idea del proyecto es la de una obra de arte integral: arquitectura, arte y paisaje, coexistirían en un mismo lugar. Diferentes recursos realzarán su carácter residencial, como el uso de los materiales propios de un entorno doméstico, la realización a la escala del hombre, el modo de usar la iluminación. Cubiertas planas que muestran su artificialidad, parecen flotar sobre galerías acristaladas, acentuarán la fuerza del plano horizontal y establecerán un recorrido en zig-zag de marcado ritmo acompasado. Ritmo que tiene que ver con la encarnación del pulso de la naturaleza, que se acompaña de juegos de luz, y de otras vibraciones materiales a diferentes escalas, imagen, que encuentra una analogía semejante en la cultura japonesa. Todo se coordina con la trama estructural, que conlleva a una construcción y proporción disciplinada. Louisiana atiende al principio de crecimiento de la naturaleza, con la que su conexión es profunda. Hay un dinamismo expresado por el despliegue del edificio, que evoca a algunos proyectos de la Tradición Japonesa. Los blancos muros tienen su propia identidad como formas en sí mismas, avanzan prolongándose fuera de la línea del vidrio, se mueven libremente siguiendo el orden estructural, acompañando al espacio que fluye, en contacto directo con la naturaleza que está en un continuo estado de flujos. Se da todo un mundo de relaciones, donde existe un dialogo entre el paisaje, arte y arquitectura. El capítulo quinto, se dedica a analizar la segunda casa del arquitecto danés Halldor Gunnløgsson, de 1959. Evoca a la Arquitectura Japonesa y Americana, pero es principalmente resultado de una fuerte voluntad y disciplina artística personal. La cubierta, plana, suspendida sobre una gran plataforma pavimentada, que continúa la sección del terreno construyendo de lugar, tiene una gran presencia y arroja una profunda sombra bajo ella. En el interior un espacio único, que se puede dividir eventualmente, discurre en torno a un cuerpo central. El espacio libre fluye, extendiéndose a través de la transparencia de sus ventanales a dos espacios contrapuestos: un patio ajardinado íntimo, que inspira calma y sosiego; y la naturaleza salvaje del mar que proyecta el color del cielo, ambos en constante estado de cambio. El proyecto se elabora de un modo rigurosamente formal, existiendo al mismo tiempo un perfecto equilibrio entre la abstracción de su estructura y su programa. La estructura de madera cuyo orden se extiende más allá de los límites de su perímetro, está formada por pórticos completos como elementos libres, queda expuesta, guardando una estrecha relación con el concepto de modernidad de Mies, equivalente a la arquitectura clásica. La preocupación por el efecto estético es máxima, nada es improvisado. Pero además la combinación de materiales y el juego de las texturas hay una cualidad táctil, cierto erotismo, que flota alrededor de ella. La precisión constructiva y su refinamiento se acercan a Mies. La experiencia del espacio arquitectónico es una vivencia global. La influencia de la arquitectura japonesa, es más conceptual que formal, revelada en un respeto por la naturaleza, la búsqueda del refinamiento a través de la moderación, la eliminación de los objetos innecesarios que distraen de la experiencia del lugar y la preocupación por la luz y la sombra, donde se establece cierto paralelismo con el oscuro mundo del invierno nórdico. Hay un entendimiento de que el espacio, en lugar de ser un objeto inmaterial definido por superficies materiales se entiende como interacciones dinámicas. El capítulo sexto. Propone un viaje para conocer algunas de las viviendas unifamiliares más interesantes que se construyeron en el periodo, que forman parte del sistema investigado. Del estudio comparado y orientado en varios temas, se obtienen diversa conclusiones propias del sistema estudiado. La maestría de la sustancia y la forma será una característica distintiva en Dinamarca, se demuestra que hay un acercamiento a la cultura de Oriente, conceptual y formal, y unos intereses comunes con cierta arquitectura Americana. Su lección nos sensibiliza hacia un sentido fortalecido de proporción, escala, materialidad, textura y peso, densidad del espacio, se valora lo táctil y lo visual, hay una sensibilidad hacia la naturaleza, hacia lo humano, hacia el paisaje, la integridad de la obra. ABSTRACT The thesis “1950 around the Louisiana Museum 1970” analyses several works related to domestic space, which were carried out between 1950 and 1970 in Denmark, a golden age of modern architecture. After the isolation and limitations brought about by the war that blighted Europe, young Danish architects were keen to experiment with ideas of an international origin, encouraged by different circumstances. They find the best field of rehearsal to be the domestic space. The best architecture of that period in Denmark should be understood as a system composed of different authors, who have in common with each other many more similarities than differences, thus complimenting each other. In the interests of understanding, the study of a range of figures and buildings is necessary so that this system, the research of which is still in its infancy, can be completed. The thesis proposes a journey of discovery through the names of some of those protagonists who were showcased through their work so that tradition and avant- garde could go hand in hand. The objective is to unveil the keys to Danish Modernity; to recognise, discover and revive the legacy of some of its protagonists in the domestic field whose lessons are seen as entirely of the present. For an architect, the taking on of modern contributions with both moderation and caution, with its intimate relationship with architectural tradition and its own craft, will be one of his hallmarks. With the study set against several projects and versions, one can derive common values among their authors. In the same way their affinities and differences in respect of the same issue emerge. This will allow an understanding of their measures in line with references and influences and enable the defining of the variables of their architectural spaces. The common line between the buildings selected will be their particular relationship with nature and the space with which they integrate. The façade, the place where the relationship between the interior and the landscape would be negotiated, wouldl be the discriminating element in a distinct way for each one of them. It is through each of these facades that this relationship would extend, and far beyond their physical perimeter. The investigation has been structured into six chapters, preceded by an introduction. The first chapter outlines and analyses the backgrounds, figures and buildings most relevant to the Danish Tradition. This is to facilitate the understanding and elucidation of some of the keys to its modernity in the field of architecture, which came about with the clear intention to discover its own identity and expression. This thriving modernity is characterized by its moderate assimilation with foreign cultures with a critical eye, and finds its roots anchored in architectural tradition and its own handcraft. It is forged in the emergence of a common ideal of enormous personality which today has come to be valued as an authentic contribution to the sphere from a culture that was formerly seen as on the peripheries. What will be demonstrated is the path taken by previous generations to these works and the debate that surrounds them. The sensibilities for both the vernacular and the classic, which at first glance may seem contradictory, will dominate the debate with the same veracity and respectability. The so-called third generation of Sigfried Giedion will revive the process between the classic and the vernacular, supported in spirit by the handcraft work and by tradition, with the objective of discovering the “truth” and the “original essence” of the architectural act. The second chapter analyzes the Varming house, built by Eva and Nils Koppel 1953, which is situated in a residential area of Gentofte. This reinterprets Asplund’s vision of an interior landscape extending to the exterior, where we see a break with the conventional sturdy brick shell of the 1930s. It is the most powerful example of the union of tradition and innovation in his their residential work. Their sober forms caught between Danish Functionalism and modernity are characterized by their abstraction and clean shapes which accentuate their prismatic and brutal geometry, The displacement of the parts of which they are composed, one over the other, generate a rhythm. This is produced to varying scales and is closely linked to its forms and the selection of materials – brick and wood – that confer an organic character to the house. The building is anchored to the earth, finding solution at different levels through the study of place and topography. The result is an adaption constructed out of the landscape, in which the building gives form to the place and celebrates the experience of the natural setting. The unity of primitive structures appears to be present. It constitutes an example of “Asplund’s Promenade Idea”. Different routes of exploration within are available to the visitor, allowing for one’s own personal experience of the house, allowing in turn for the vital chance to decide. The third chapter deals with Niels Bohr’s guest pavilion. Built in 1957, it is situated in a wooded area of Tisvilde Hegn and was the architect Vilhelm Wohlert’s first building. Rooted in the Danish Tradition, it represents a renewal based on the absorption of foreign influences: American architecture and the Japanese tradition. The wooden box, perched atop a horizontal terrain, possesses the sensitive character of the living organism, ever-changing in accordance with the variations in daylight and temperature. When opened up, it creates an elongation of the interior space which extends into the surrounding nature and it expands towards the exterior space, allowing for its mobilisation. It establishes an architecture of flux. There is interest in the material, its texture and the emotional effect it inspires. The building’s proportions and dimensions are regulated by a module, which is adjusted by hand, bringing out the great unity of the building. The key to its aesthetic effect is its harmony and equilibrium, which convey serenity and beauty. The meeting with nature is the most fundamental lesson of the project, where a world of relationships softens the personality of the human being. The fourth chapter analyzes the Louisiana Museum project of 1958 in 1958. It was the first project of the Danish architects Jørgen Bo and Vilhelm Wohlert. Wohlert’s experience in California where he was visited by Bo would be essential to the development of Louisiana, where the Danish identity is fused in assimilation with other cultures, the architecture of Frank Lloyd Wright, that of the Bahía area and principally the Japanese tradition. The idea of the project was for an integrated work of art: architecture, art and landscape, which would coexist in the same space. A range of different resources would realize the residential character, such as the use of materials taken from a domestic environment, the attainment of human scale and the manner in which light was used. Flat roof plans that show their artificiality and appear to float over glassed galleries. They accentuate the strength of the horizontal plan and establish a zigzag route of marked and measured rhythm. It is a rhythm that has to do with the incarnation of nature’s pulse, which is accompanied with plays of light, as well as material vibrations of different scales, imagery which uncovers a parallel analogy with Japanese culture. Everything is coordinated along a structural frame, which involves a disciplined construction and proportion. Louisiana cherishes nature’s principle of growth, to which its connection is profound. Here is a dynamism expressed through the disposition of the building, which evokes in some projects the Japanese tradition. The white walls possess their own identity as forms in their own right. They advance, extending beyond the line of glass, moving freely along the structural line, accompanying a space that flows and in direct contact with nature that is itself in a constant state of flux. It creates a world of relationships, where dialogue exists between the landscape, art and architecture. The fifth chapter is dedicated to analyzing the Danish architect Halldor Gunnløgsson’s second house, built in 1959. It evokes both Japanese and American architecture but is principally the result of a strong will and personal artistic discipline. The flat roof suspended above a large paved platform – itself continuing the constructed terrain of the place – has great presence and casts a heavy shadow beneath. In the interior, a single space, which can at length be divided and which flows around a central space. The space flows freely, extending through the transparency of its windows which give out onto two contrasting locations: an intimate garden patio, inspiring calm and tranquillity, and the wild nature of the sea which projects the colour of sky, both in a constant state of change. The project is realized in a rigorously formal manner. A perfect balance exists between the abstraction of his structure and his project. The wooden structure, whose order extends beyond the limits of its perimeter, is formed of complete porticos of free elements. It remains exposed, maintaining a close relationship with Mies’ concept of modernity, analogous to classical architecture. The preoccupation with the aesthetic effect is paramount and nothing is improvised. But in addition to this - the combination of materials and the play of textures - there is a tactile quality, a certain eroticism, which lingers all about. The constructive precision and its refinement are close to Mies. The experience of the architectural space is universal. The influence of Japanese architecture, more conceptual than formal, is revealed in a respect for nature. It can be seen in the search for refinement through moderation, the elimination of the superfluous object that distract from the experience of place and the preoccupation with light and shade, where a certain parallel with the dark world of the Nordic winter is established. There is an understanding that space, rather than being an immaterial object defined by material surfaces, extends instead as dynamic interactions. The sixth chapter. This proposes a journey to discover some of the unfamiliar residences of most interest which were constructed in the period, and which form part of the system being investigated. Through the study of comparison and one which is geared towards various themes, diverse conclusions are drawn regarding the system being researched. The expertise in substance and form will be a distinctive characteristic in Denmark, demonstrating an approach to the culture of the Orient, both conceptual and formal, and some common interests in certain American architecture. Its teachings sensitize us to a strengthened sense of proportion, scale, materiality, texture and weight and density of space. It values both the tactile and the visual. There is a sensitivity to nature, to the human, to the landscape and to the integrity of the work.

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This research seeks to reflect on the dynamics of television reception, studying the Brazilian TV miniseries Hoje é Dia de Maria, produced by Globo Television Network, and aims to generally promote inferences in the process of image reading, mainly for aesthetic reading in school context, aiming at the formation of visual proficient readers. The research was conducted with students from the third grade of a state high school, geographically located in the city of Natal, Rio Grande do Norte. The theoretical framework comes from the assumptions of cognitive social interactionism to understand language, and it is also based on the ideas of Bakhtin (1992) and Vygotsky (1998), which enabled us to understand the social interaction and the Theory of Aesthetics Reception and Aesthetic Effect with Jauss (1979) and Iser (1999), which provided a better understanding of aesthetic experience, aesthetic effects and production of meaning. The methodological approach assumes a qualitative nature and an interpretive bias, accomplished through interviews, observation, questionnaire and application of a set of investigative activities, such as introductory exposition of themes, handing out of images and mediation process. This research is the result of a research-action process in a pedagogical intervention in a state school. The results indicate that the interactional linguistic resources used by the speakers demonstrated lack of prior knowledge and repertoire regarding image reading, which initially led them to do a cursory reading. It was evident that the respondents were unaware of the initial proposal. However, throughout the meetings, it was possible to realize their transformation, because the pre-established concepts were analyzed with the help of mediation, so that the group felt more autonomous and safe to read images at the end. The survey also showed significant data, so that the school could develop new methods of teaching televisual reading.

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Despite having a band of greenness around the edge, Australia is fundamentally a dry country. Australian vegetation has developed a high range of mechanisms to cope with the dryness, but after 200 years of white settlement, Australians still have not really come to terms with the real dryness of their country, and still exploit European paradigms that attempted to transplant European aesthetic conditions, greenness, to the brown land of Australia. Australia is going through serious water shortages that are still and will continue with the Greenhouse effect, to become a major factor in the location and extent of urbanisation, and also Australia's carrying capacity. While such aesthetic concerns might seem ornamental, until the population changes its attitude to the real condition of the country, it will keep using water and operating unsustainably. The design of the public landscape, however, offers the opportunity to contribute to changing people's aesthetic perception of the country, which might in turn help to redirect their water use practices. This essay develops a language for discussion dryness based around the experiences of water. After having developed this sensibility it then discusses a range of different approaches that landscape design in Australia has used to try to develop geographically appropriate design languages, including the Bush Garden and the Mediterranean Garden. It then discusses four design projects, one from the 1970's, the other three from the last five years that demonstrate what such an aesthetic might look like.

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This paper investigates how fashion circulates globally and is adapted and localised by consumers. The rise of fashion blogs, social networking, on-line retail and on-line streaming of fashion shows has exponentially increased the availability of fashion images globally, enabling a further multiplication of styles and looks. The geographical dispersion of production systems in third world countries, and the concentration of management and finance in first world countries are increasingly acknowledged as having an uneven social and economic effect. However, processes of hibridisation and creolisation give rise to new cultural forms where the local and the foreign are mixed in interesting ways. I argue that the current circulation of fashion must be understood as adaptation in which “outside aesthetic influence is integrated into and becomes part of an existing style tradition” (Lynch and Strauss, 2007, p. 154). This emergence of new local and eclectic styles denies assumptions in which consumers are disengaged while duped by a system of commodification. The paper argues that, through a process of “deterritorialisation”, “displacement” and “repatriation” (Appadurai 1996, p. 32), creative ordinary consumers are able to engage with fashion, reinventing it in the context of their local cultures.

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This paper compares costuming practices in Baz Luhrmann’s Australia (2008) and John Hillcoat’s The Proposition (2005) and argues that high production values, such as in the blockbuster Australia, are not neutral mechanisms of production, but powerful prescriptive elements which do not result in a successful representation of cultural specificity. Australia is a typical blockbuster, it employs a large number of extras, it features compelling landscape shots, has been shot across four different locations and sets, and, importantly, is an international production with the 20th Century Fox. The film’s costumes were designed by Catherine Martin, who received an Oscar nomination in 2009. While global exposure of fashion in film and through celebrities’ endorsements has consolidated a historical synergy between the fashion industry and Hollywood, the Australian film and fashion industries have had a very limited exchange. Baz Luhrmann’s film is Australia’s first instance of promo-costuming and use of tie-in labels (Ferragamo, R.M.Williams, Prada, Paspaley). Catherine Martin thoroughly researched 1930s women’s wear, indigenous and stockmen’s clothing, and set up to make all costumes with a large team of costumiers and seamstresses, striving for authenticity. The Proposition won its costume designer Margot Wilson an AFI in 2005 for best costume, but compared to Australia the story, location and costumes are far harsher. Filmed around Winton in far west Queensland, the director John Hillcoat and Director of Photography Benoit Delhomme were insistent about realism, and emphasising the harshness of the Australian landscape. The realism of the costumes was derived from the fabrics and manufacturing, as well as the way they were shot, with the actors often wearing two or three layers of heavy wool during days of shooting in 50 degree heat, and the details of making and breaking down. The implication is that both films are culturally specific as they both deal with an Australian story. However, Australia is clearly produced according to a Hollywood blockbuster model, and closely matches Hollywood’s narrative and aesthetic characteristics, while The Proposition is a more modest film that eschews these conventions of beauty and glossed history. Despite its western genre-orientation, The Proposition is more successful than Australia when it comes to costuming, because its costumes are not only functional to the narrative, but, in Roland Barthes’ words, they also fulfil a prestation. This prestation highlights the social and cultural conflicts on which colonial Australia was founded, instead of gilding, and gliding, over them.