Toxicologia dos cosméticos

Although not desirable, cosmetic products can cause some adverse effects in me user. Such effects can be due bom to individual factors and by inadequate use. So, the safety evaluation must precede the placement of the cosmetic product in the market. Once the consumer has free access to cosmetic product, it must be safe in normal conditions or reasonably previsible of use. Historically the evaluation tests were accomplished with animals (in vivo) but, at the moment, some research centers have been adopting new alternatives (in vitro) in order to replace me tests with animals. This article emphasizes me necessity of accomplishing toxicity assays for personal hygiene products, cosmetics and perfumes, an also presents the tests in vivo and in vitro used, approaching the necessity of alternative methods to the assays in vitro in the evaluation of security of them.

Protocolo para ensaios físico-químicos de estabilidade de fitocosméticos

The growing demand for stable, safe and effective cosmetics has required increasingly complex studies by the scientific community and the use of more efficient techniques to determine the stability of these products. The use of active principles from the Brazilian flora has led to the development of numerous products, in the most varied pharmaceutical forms, making it, even more difficult to standardize experimental protocols to certify the stability of cosmetic preparations. While in Brazil there is no one protocol that standardizes the tests that should be carried out to determine product stability, several studies have been conducted in academic laboratories to determine the stability of specific raw materials. The rheological properties of topical use products have to be taken into account in their manufacture, storage and application. The determination of the rheological behavior of a formulation helps in evaluating the physicochemical nature of the vehicle, allowing early signs of physical instability to be detected and thus enabling quality control of the constituents, test formulations and final products. Thermal analysis has also been used to assist in the study of cosmetic stability and differential scanning calorimetry to guide the development of new products. Other tools, such as fluorimetry and laser granulometry can be used to help the study and development of both emulsified and non-emulsified systems. The aim of the present study is to develop a protocol for the investigation of the physical and chemical stability of phytocosmetics - systems containing active compounds extracted from the Brazilian biodiversity.

Color stability after accelerated aging of two silicones, pigmented or not, for use in facial prostheses

One of the greatest challenges faced by buccomaxillofacial prosthetists is to reproduce the patient's exact skin color and provide adequate esthetics. To reach this objective, professionals must use materials with easy characterization and that maintain color over long periods of time. The objective of this study was, thus, to evaluate the color stability of two types of silicones, Silastic 732 and Silastic MDX4-4210. Twenty-four test specimens were made from each type of silicone and were divided into a colorless group and groups intrinsically pigmented with ceramics, cosmetics or iron oxide. The specimens were submitted to an accelerated system of aging for non-metallic materials. Readings were carried out initially and after periods corresponding to 163, 351, 692 and 1,000 hours of aging, using a reflection spectrophotometer analysis, and color alterations were calculated by the CIE L*a*b* system. The data were submitted to variance analysis and Tukey's test at a 5% level of probability. The results demonstrated that, irrespective of the period of time analyzed, all the materials underwent some type of chromatic alteration (ΔE > 0). The test specimens made with Silastic 732 and MDX4-4210, without pigmentation, presented the lowest color alteration values after 1,000 hours of aging. Of the pigments, ceramic presented the lowest color alteration values and cosmetic powder presented the highest values. Thus, it may be concluded that the materials without the incorporation of pigments presented similar color alteration values, and did not differ statistically. The cosmetic powder used in this study was the pigment that most altered the color of the test specimens. © 2009 Sociedade Brasileira de Pesquisa Odontológica.

Eficácia do extrato aquoso do Triticum vulgare no tratamento de radiodermatites geradas pelo uso da radioterapia em gatos

The use of ionizing radiation in the treatment of oncological diseases in veterinary medicine has grown in recent years. In general, these animals are very well tolerated by the treatment with radioactive elements; however, the harmful effects that may occur are not always able to be controlled, particularly those relating to skin burns. Then, the purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of aqueous extract of Triticum vulgare in treat of 10 cats radiodermatitis with squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), which were treated with radiotherapy as single modality treatment. The drug was used topically and daily until complete healing of wounds. Based on the findings, it may concluded beneficial effects of the drug, because it allowed the formation of granulation tissue and epithelization of wounds with epidermal repair not exuberant, good-quality cosmetics and, considering the deleterious effects that can result from cancer treatments.

Influence of organic and mineral soil fertilization on essential oil of Spilanthes oleracea cv. Jambuarana

In the present study, the composition of essential oil of leaves and inflorescences of jambu (Spilanthes oleracea. Jambuarana), under organic manuring and mineral fertilization, was stuhed. Jambu plants show important chemical properties and their production has been addressed for the extraction of the essential oils for cosmetics industries, due to their pharmacolopcal properties. The experimental area of treatments contained urea as mineral fertilizer (120 g m2), applied twice and organic fertilizer (8 kg m2), applied at the planting. Jambu leaves and flowers were harvested twice: the first at 90 days after seedling transplantation and at the opening of the flower buds. Branches were cut at 7 cm from the soil, thus new branches can bud for the accomplishment of the second crop which happened 40 days after the re-budhng. The essential oil was analyzed by gas chromatography coupled with mass-spectrometry. According to our results the most representative compounds were trans-caryophyllene, germacrene-D, 1-dodecene, spathulenol and spilanthol (a compound presenting anesthetic properties) occurring in inflorescences. Fertilization procedure does not affect the content and the quality of the essential oil in Jambu plants. © 2012 Academic Journals Inc.

Análise sensorial como ferramenta útil no desenvolvimento de cosméticos

In assessing the quality of cosmetics, sensory analysis has an undisputed role as a tool of scientific measurement, since no analytical tool is capable of replacing the human senses. In product development, sensory analysis is a uniquely useful tool to measure consumer acceptance. The objective of this paper is to present a critical review of the issue based on published papers and sensory test results obtained by our research group, which can assist cosmetics development.

Estudo da segurança de cosméticos: Presente e futuro

Cosmetics have been used since ancient times and, recently, their consumption has increased greatly in many countries, including brazil, which is the third largest consumer market in the world. Thus, concern for the safety and efficacy of these products should be heightened, even though these products are rarely related to adverse reactions that damage the health. Brazilian law requires manufacturers to subject their products to safety testing, to assess the possible reactions that could be caused by them (irritation, sensitization, systemic effects). To this end, in general, animals have been used as the experimental model, but this practice is being increasingly controlled, so that the scientific community is looking for alternative tests that do not require experimental in vivo models. Thus, this review aims to describe the main biological assays used to assess the safety of cosmetics, as well as in vitro assays that can replace them.

Chlorine disinfection of dye wastewater: Implications for a commercial azo dye mixture

Azo dyes, the most widely used family of synthetic dyes, are often employed as colorants in areas such as textiles, plastics, foods/drugs/cosmetics, and electronics. Following their use in industrial applications, azo dyes have been found in effluents and various receiving waters. Chemical treatment of effluents containing azo dyes includes disinfection using chlorine, which can generate compounds of varying eco/genotoxicity. Among the widely known commercial azo dyes for synthetic fibers is C.I. Disperse Red 1. While this dye is known to exist as a complex mixture, reports of eco/genotoxicity involve the purified form. Bearing in mind the potential for adverse synergistic effects arising from exposures to chemical mixtures, the aim of the present study was to characterize the components of commercial Disperse Red 1 and its chlorine-mediated decoloration products and to evaluate their ecotoxicity and mutagenicity. In conducting the present study, Disperse Red 1 was treated with chlorine gas, and the solution obtained was analyzed with the aid of LC-ESI-MS/MS to identify the components present, and then evaluated for ecotoxicity and mutagenicity, using Daphnia similis and Salmonella/microsome assays, respectively. The results of this study indicated that chlorination of Disperse Red 1 produced four chlorinated aromatic compounds as the main products and that the degradation products were more ecotoxic than the parent dye. These results suggest that a disinfection process using chlorine should be avoided for effluents containing hydrophobic azo dyes such commercial Disperse Red 1. © 2012 Elsevier B.V..

Como desenhar e escrever um protocolo de pesquisa clínica em Cosmiatria

Cosmetic Dermatology is a growing subspecialty. High-quality basic science studies have been published; however, few double-blind, randomized controlled clinical trials, which are the major instrument for evidence-based medicine, have been conducted in this area. Clinical research is essential for the discovery of new knowledge, improvement of scientific basis, resolution of challenges, and good clinical practice. Some basic principles for a successful researcher include interest, availability, persistence, and honesty. It is essential to learn how to write a protocol research and to know the international and national regulatory rules. A complete clinical trial protocol should include question, background, objectives, methodology (design, variable description, sample size, randomization, inclusion and exclusion criteria, intervention, efficacy and safety measures, and statistical analysis), consent form, clinical research form, and references. Institutional ethical review board approval and financial support disclosure are necessary. Publication of positive or negative results should be an authors' commitment. © 2013 by Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia.

Produtividade e acúmulo de nutrientes em plantas de jambu, sob adubação orgânica e mineral

The organic production is a system that allows achieving good levels of productivity, while avoiding the risks of chemical contamination of farmers, consumers and the environment. Because jambu plant is widely used as alternative medicine and cosmetics industries, has been increasing interest in its cultivation. The aim of this study was to analyze the biomass, accumulation of nutrient, productivity and determine the pesticide residue in plant jambu when grown under organic and mineral fertilization. The experiment was conducted at the Experimental Farm São Manuel, FCA / UNESP. The experiment was conducted at São Manuel Experimental Farm UNESP. The statistical was arranged in the randomized block design, in a 2 x 6 factorial scheme, two sources of fertilizers (organic and mineral) and six doses of nitrogen, with four replications. The characteristics evaluated were plant height, fresh and dry weight, nutrients of accumulation in shoots and productivity. Mineral fertilizer gave higher biomass, productivity and accumulation of N and K in relation to organic fertilizer used. It is recommended the dose of 90g m -2 of urea as appropriate to obtain these results. However the organic fertilization favored the accumulation of phosphorus in plants jambu in relation the mineral fertilizer, and the dose of 10 kg m-2 of cattle manure recommended to achieve this result in plants jambu. We did not detect the presence of phosphorous and carbamate on leaves of jambu under organic and mineral fertilization. However, we observed the presence of chlorine in the leaves used for the two fertilizations.

Validation of an alternative analytical method for the quantification of antioxidant activity in plant extracts

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Thermal behavior of coffee oil (Robusta and Arabica species)

Coffee seeds are a source for obtaining oil which is used in the candy, soluble coffee, and cosmetics industries. The main purpose of this study was the investigation of the lipid profile and thermal behavior of the roasted and in nature coffee oil of Arabica and Robusta species, using thermogravimetry, differential thermal analysis, derivative thermogravimetry, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and modulated DSC. Details concerning the thermal decomposition as well as data of the kinetic parameters have been described here. The kinetic studies were evaluated from several heating rates with a sample mass of 10 mg in open crucible under nitrogen atmospheres. The obtained data were evaluated with the isoconversional kinetic method, where the values of activation energy (Ea/kJ mol-1) were evaluated in function of the conversion degree (α). In addition, this oil was evaluated by modulated DSC from 25 to -60 °C, where the transition phase behavior was verified. © 2013 Akadémiai Kiadó, Budapest, Hungary.

Caracterização bioquímica de uma serino-protease produzida pelo fungo termofílico Myceliophthora sp

Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES)

Estudo da atividade antioxidante em frutas nativas e exóticas brasileiras

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Caracterização bioquímica e centesimal das espécies Astrocaryum vulgare Mart. (tucumã) e Endopleura uchi (Huber) Cuatrec. (uxi) nativas da região Amazônica

Pós-graduação em Biotecnologia - IQ