Estabilidade e eficácia de fotoprotetores contendo filtros inorgânicos e quercetina

A exposição ao sol traz benefícios à saúde, no entanto, o excesso pode ocasionar danos cutâneos dentre os quais se destacam as neoplasias. A fotoproteção é um método para a prevenção dos efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta (UV) e a biodiversidade Brasileira é campo fértil para pesquisas nesta área. Dessa forma, os objetivos deste estudo envolveram o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras contendo quercetina (composto bioativo) e filtros solares físicos (dióxido de titânio e óxido de zinco), com posterior caracterização das formulações e avaliação da sua estabilidade. As formulações contendo o composto bioativo, isolado ou em associação com os filtros físicos, possuíram valores de pH biocompatíveis com a pele,intervalo de viscosidade aparente entre 10550 e 23600 cP; fator de proteção solar (FPS) estimado entre 2.1 e 22.5; e amplo espectro de proteção, com comprimentos de onda crítico acima de 379 nm. Constatou-se que não foi adequado utilizar a quercetina associada aos filtros solares físicos devido às interações negativas que ocorreram entre o composto e os metais, somente identificadas ao longo do estudo de estabilidade. No entanto, em função da eficácia estimada in vitro apresentada pelo flavonoide, seu uso ainda pode ser explorado como substituto alternativo aos filtros solares clássicos.

Avaliação das propriedades sensoriais de uma formulação cosmética contendo óleo de café verde

O óleo de café verde (OCV) é um ingrediente bastante conhecido com propriedades cosméticas como: manter a hidratação da pele, melhorar o fator de proteção solar e manter a função barreira da pele. Assim, o objectivo deste estudo foi avaliar a influência da adição de uma quantidade considerável de OCV (15%) nas propriedades sensoriais de uma formulação cosmética. O painel sensorial consistiu de 19 voluntários com idades entre 19 e 43 anos. Os atributos sensoriais foram avaliadas em uma região definida de 25 cm2 na parte interna do antebraço. Os voluntários foram instruídos a avaliar as propriedades sensoriais que eles sentiam para cada formulação imediatamente e 5 minutos após a aplicação. As formulações mostraram quase a mesma percepção entre os voluntários. A maioria dos voluntários percebeu a pele suave e hidratada após a aplicação das formulações. No entanto, a percepção de um resíduo oleoso sobre a pele foi o principal efeito da formulação contendo OCV. Assim, podemos concluir que a quantidade total de OCV utilizado mostrou propriedades interessantes para aplicação em peles secas ou cremes noturnos, uma vez que foi capaz de deixar uma película oleosa sobre a pele.

Formulações dermatocosméticas: da actualidade aos desafios futuros

A pele é o maior órgão do ser humano, separando o meio interno das agressões exteriores. Os cuidados a ter com a pele e os produtos destinados a esse fim fazem cada vez mais parte do quotidiano da maioria das pessoas. A importância que os cosméticos têm hoje em dia é inegável. Este é um mercado crescente sobretudo na área de produtos que visam cuidar da pele, não só apostando na manutenção e recuperação de uma pele saudável e com boa aparência, como na prevenção de possíveis alterações a que a pele está sujeita. Nos últimos anos, novos conceitos foram surgindo, como é o caso dos produtos dermatocosméticos. Muitas substâncias sejam de origem natural ou sintética, são investigadas e testadas como ingredientes activos. Nesta dissertação são abordados diferentes aspectos introdutórios, tais como a origem da dermatocosmética – diferenças entre cosmético e dermatocosmético – classificação desses mesmos produtos, respectivos mecanismos de acção, locais de aplicação, tipos de formulações e perspectivas futuras. Esta abordagem do tema tem como principal objectivo facilitar a compreensão sobre alguns aspectos específicos como conhecer alguns dos ingredientes que são actualmente usados em produtos dermatocosméticos.

O contributo do farmacovigilância para o uso racional do medicamento e o papel do farmacêutico

O âmbito deste trabalho reside no contributo da Farmacovigilância para um Uso Racional do Medicamento, focando o relevante papel do farmacêutico nestes dois campos. A Farmacovigilância tem uma actuação a nível mundial, com um objectivo bem claro, o uso seguro do medicamento. Tem-se verificado uma evolução ao longo dos séculos, tendo sido a ocorrência de tragédias o impulso para a implementação de Sistemas de Farmacovigilância, a tragédia que ocorreu com a administração de talidomida a mulheres grávidas foi um dos grandes marcos para a criação do Sistema Internacional de Farmacovigilância. A Reacção Adversa a Medicamento(s) (RAM) é uma consequência do risco subjacente à utilização de fármacos, estando por isso a Notificação Espontânea (NE) de RAMs na base da Farmacovigilância. Todos os que contactam com tratamentos terapêuticos devem notificar, falamos portanto de profissionais de saúde, da indústria e dos utentes. Não menosprezando qualquer efeito adverso que decorra da utilização de um medicamento, deve-se notificar todas as RAMs estando elas já reconhecidas ou não. O Uso Racional do Medicamento pressupõe a intervenção do médico, do farmacêutico e do utente, havendo o objectivo bem claro através de várias medidas implementadas e do apoio dos Estudos de Utilização de Medicamentos (EUM) de uma prescrição, uma dispensa e um uso correctos. O farmacêutico é parte activa da Farmacovigilância e do Uso Racional do Medicamento. O farmacêutico tem contacto não só com a prescrição como com a dispensa e com o evoluir do tratamento terapêutico, sendo portanto um monitorizador. Devido à proximidade do dia-a-dia entre farmacêutico e doente cabe a este profissional de saúde educar para um uso correcto e seguro do medicamento, transmitindo sempre um elevado nível de confiança e fiabilidade.

Nanotecnologia aplicada à pele

A nanotecnologia foi introduzida nas áreas farmacêutica e cosmética, com o propósito de possibilitar o desenvolvimento de sistemas de veiculação de substâncias e para a optimização das formulações já existentes. As preparações de aplicação tópica têm elevada importância nas perspectivas terapêutica e cosmética, uma vez que a pele apresenta uma área de aplicação extensa e acessível, os efeitos sistémicos das substâncias a administrar por via tópica encontram-se geralmente reduzidos, exercendo na maioria das vezes um efeito local. Mais, a esta via estão normalmente associadas menos reacções adversas. Todavia, a pele é um órgão, dotado de um efeito barreira notável, que pode comprometer a administração de moléculas farmacológica/cosmetologicamente activas no alvo. Assim, é evidente a necessidade de conhecer a constituição da pele, pois a permeabilidade cutânea de substâncias é um desafio que só pode ser conseguido através da preparação de formulações capazes de ultrapassar essa mesma barreira. O trabalho exposto aborda sucintamente a nanocosmética, pois esta tem revelado elevados impactos económico, social e científico. A inexistência de informação sobre quais os produtos actualmente comercializados, cuja produção tenha por base a nanotecnologia, suscitaram o interesse em desenvolver uma revisão sobre esses mesmos produtos, assim como esclarecer alguns aspectos relacionados com as características da pele, que justificam o investimento e estudo exaustivo deste tipo de preparações.

Oestrogenic activity of benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and butylphenylmethylpropional (Lilial) in MCF7 human breast cancer cells in vitro

Benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and butylphenylmethylpropional (Lilial) are added to bodycare cosmetics used around the human breast. We report here that all three compounds possess oestrogenic activity in assays using the oestrogen-responsive MCF7 human breast cancer cell line. At 3 000 000-fold molar excess, they were able to partially displace [H-3]oestradiol from recombinant human oestrogen receptors ER alpha and ER beta, and from cytosolic ER of MCF7 cells. At concentrations in the range of 5 x 10(-5) to 5 x 10(-4) M, they were able to increase the expression of a stably integrated oestrogen-responsive reporter gene (ERE-CAT) and of the endogenous oestrogen-responsive pS2 gene in MCF7 cells, albeit to a lesser extent than with 10(-8) M 17 beta-oestradiol. They increased the proliferation of oestrogen-dependent MCF7 cells over 7 days, which could be inhibited by the antioestrogen fulvestrant, suggesting an ER-mediated mechanism. Although the extent of stimulation of proliferation over 7 days was lower with these compounds than with 10(-8) M 17 beta-oestradiol, given a longer time period of 35 days the extent of proliferation with 10(-4) M benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate or butylphenylmethylpropional increased to the same magnitude as observed with 10(-8) M 17 beta-oestradiol over 14 days. This demonstrates that benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and butylphenylmethylpropional are further chemical components of cosmetic products which give oestrogenic responses in a human breast cancer cell line in culture. Further research is now needed to investigate whether oestrogenic responses are detectable using in vivo models and the extent to which these compounds might be absorbed through human skin and might enter human breast tissues. Copyright (C) 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks

This toxicology update reviews research over the past four years since publication in 2004 of the first measurement of intact esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) in human breast cancer tissues, and the suggestion that their presence in the human body might originate from topical application of bodycare cosmetics. The presence of intact paraben esters in human body tissues has now been confirmed by independent measurements in human urine, and the ability of parabens to penetrate human skin intact without breakdown by esterases and to be absorbed systemically has been demonstrated through studies not only in vitro but also in vivo using healthy human subjects. Using a wide variety of assay systems in vitro and in vivo, the oestrogen agonist properties of parabens together with their common metabolite (p-hydroxybenzoic acid) have been extensively documented, and, in addition, the parabens have now also been shown to possess androgen antagonist activity, to act as inhibitors of sulfotransferase enzymes and to possess genotoxic activity. With the continued use of parabens in the majority of bodycare cosmetics, there is a need to carry out detailed evaluation of the potential for parabens, together with other oestrogenic and genotoxic co-formulants of bodycare cosmetics, to increase female breast cancer incidence, to interfere with male reproductive functions and to influence development of malignant melanoma which has also recently been shown to be influenced by oestrogenic stimulation. Copyright (C) 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Aluminium, antiperspirants and breast cancer

Aluminium salts are used as the active antiperspirant agent in underarm cosmetics, but the effects of widespread, long term and increasing use remain unknown, especially in relation to the breast, which is a local area of application. Clinical studies showing a disproportionately high incidence of breast cancer in the upper outer quadrant of the breast together with reports of genomic instability in outer quadrants of the breast provide supporting evidence for a role for locally applied cosmetic chemicals in the development of breast cancer. Aluminium is known to have a genotoxic profile, capable of causing both DNA alterations and epigenetic effects, and this would be consistent with a potential role in breast cancer if such effects occurred in breast cells. Oestrogen is a well established influence in breast cancer and its action, dependent on intracellular receptors which function as ligand-activated zinc finger transcription factors, suggests one possible point of interference from aluminium. Results reported here demonstrate that aluminium in the form of aluminium chloride or aluminium chlorhydrate can interfere with the function of oestrogen receptors of MCF7 human breast cancer cells both in terms of ligand binding and in terms of oestrogen-regulated reporter gene expression. This adds aluminium to the increasing list of metals capable of interfering with oestrogen action and termed metal I oestrogens. Further studies are now needed to identify the molecular basis of this action, the longer term effects of aluminium exposure and whether aluminium can cause aberrations to other signalling pathways in breast cells. Given the wide exposure of the human population to antiperspirants, it will be important to establish dermal absorption in the local area of the breast and whether long term low level absorption could play a role in the increasing incidence of breast cancer. (c) 2005 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

Recovery of norbixin from a raw extraction solution of annatto pigments using colloidal gas aphrons (CGAs)

Annatto dyes are widely used in food and are finding increasing interest also for their application in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry. Bixin is the main pigment extracted from annatto seeds and accounts for 80% of the carotenoids in the outer coat of the seeds; norbixin being the water-soluble form of the bixin. Typically annatto dyes are extracted from the seeds by mechanical means or solutions of alkali, edible oil or organic solvents, or a combination of the two depending on the desired final product. In this work CGAs are investigated as an alternative separation method for the recovery of norbixin from a raw extraction solution of annatto pigments in KOH. A volume of CGAs generated from a cationic surfactant (CTAB) solution is mixed with a volume of annatto solution and when the mixture is allowed to settle it separates into the top aphron phase and the bottom liquid phase. Potassium norbixinate presented in the annatto solution will interact with the surfactant in the aphron phase, which results in the effective separation of norbixin. Recovery= 94% was achieved at a CTAB to norbixin molar ratio of 3.3. In addition a mechanism of separation is proposed here based on the separation results with the cationic surfactant and an anionic surfactant (bis-2-ethyl hexyl sulfosuccinate, AOT) and measurements of surfactant to norbixin ratio in the aphron phase; electrostatic interactions between the surfactant and norbixin molecules result in the fort-nation of a coloured complex and effective separation of norbixin. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Environmental oestrogens and breast cancer: evidence for combined involvement of dietary, household and cosmetic xenoestrogens

Many environmental compounds with oestrogenic activity are measurable in the human breast and oestrogen is a known factor in breast cancer development. Exposure to environmental oestrogens occurs through diet, household products and cosmetics, but concentrations of single compounds in breast tissue are generally lower than needed for assayable oestrogenic responses. Results presented here and elsewhere demonstrate that in combination, chemicals can give oestrogenic responses at lower concentrations, which suggests that in the breast, low doses of many compounds could sum to give a significant oestrogenic stimulus. Updated incidence figures show a continued disproportionate incidence of breast cancer in Britain in the upper outer quadrant of the breast which is also the region to which multiple cosmetic chemicals are applied. CONCLUSION: If exposure to complex mixtures of oestrogenic chemicals in consumer products is a factor in breast cancer development, then a strategy for breast cancer prevention could become possible.

Measurement of paraben concentrations in human breast tissue at serial locations across the breast from axilla to sternum

The concentrations of five esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens) were measured using HPLC-MS/MS at four serial locations across the human breast from axilla to sternum using human breast tissue collected from 40 mastectomies for primary breast cancer in England between 2005 and 2008. One or more paraben esters were quantifiable in 158/160 (99%) of the tissue samples and in 96/160 (60%) all five esters were measured. Variation was notable with respect to individual paraben esters, location within one breast and similar locations in different breasts. Overall median values in nanograms per gram tissue for the 160 tissue samples were highest for n-propylparaben [16.8 (range 0–2052.7)] and methylparaben [16.6 (range 0–5102.9)]; levels were lower for n-butylparaben [5.8 (range 0–95.4)], ethylparaben [3.4 (range 0–499.7)] and isobutylparaben 2.1 (range 0–802.9). The overall median value for total paraben was 85.5 ng g−1 tissue (range 0–5134.5). The source of the paraben cannot be identified, but paraben was measured in the 7/40 patients who reported never having used underarm cosmetics in their lifetime. No correlations were found between paraben concentrations and age of patient (37–91 years), length of breast feeding (0–23 months), tumour location or tumour oestrogen receptor content. In view of the disproportionate incidence of breast cancer in the upper outer quadrant, paraben concentrations were compared across the four regions of the breast: n-propylparaben was found at significantly higher levels in the axilla than mid (P = 0.004 Wilcoxon matched pairs) or medial (P = 0.021 Wilcoxon matched pairs) regions (P = 0.010 Friedman ANOVA).

Acts of estrangement: reading the psoriatic-skin

I am continually surprised by the acts of estrangement in which my body engages. All bodies do this to some extent – lungs breathe, hearts beat and so on, but with psoriasis, which my article is concerned with, these processes are highly visible. As a condition of the skin, it is a pathology which is enacted both within and without, visible to the social world as well emerging from some little understood inflammatory source within the body. This article will undertake a phenomenological exploration of my own skin and how my experience of my body is affected by its lack of compliance with medicine, cosmetics etc. By some unknown causation it flakes, breaks, itches constantly drawing attention to bodily limits and the limits of medical knowledge. I want to think through the meanings we ascribe to such inflammatory conditions in Western society, how my skin materialises at the nexus of industrialisation, medicine, class and capital. This investigation will emerge at the limit point, the thin skin between the subjective and objective, observing and theorising my skin in ways which dissolve disciplinary boundaries, to comprehend the cultural, biological and environmental forces that work upon my body, estranging it from me.

Dietary Quality and Associated Factors among Factory Workers in the Metropolitan Region of Sao Paulo, Brazil

The workplace is a manageable community-based setting for ensuring proper nutrition. This study aimed to evaluate dietary quality and associated factors among adult workers at a cosmetics factory in the metropolitan area of Sao Paulo, Brazil. This factory was actively participating in the Brazilian Workers` Meal Program, which was created to ensure workers` nutritional health. In this cross-sectional study, data on 202 adult workers were assessed using questionnaires (sociodemographic, anthropometric, and lifestyle characteristics) administered during August and September 2006. Dietary intake, measured by 24-hour dietary recall, was used to calculate the modified Healthy Eating Index (HEI). A repeated administration of the 24-hour dietary recall was applied in a random subsample to calculate the modified HEI adjusted for the within-person variation in intake. Mean adjusted modified HEI scores were analyzed using multiple linear regression adjusted for energy. The mean adjusted modified HEI score was 72.3 +/- 8.0. The lowest adjusted modified HEI components scores were ""milk and dairy products"" (4.4 +/- 3.2) and ""sodium"" (3.7 +/- 3.1). Two percent of workers had ""poor diet"" (adjusted modified HEI score <51 points) and the majority (87%) had ""diet that needs modification"" (adjusted modified HEI score between 51 and 80), despite their participation in the meal program. Adjusted modified HEI scores were considerably higher for men (74.7 +/- 7.0) than for women (66.9 +/- 8.2) and for normal body mass index (calculated as kg/m(2)) (73.3 +/- 7.8) than for overweight/obese (70.9 +/- 8.1). Based on these results, the vast majority of workers were found to have diets that needed improvement. Individuals with higher-quality diets were more likely to have lower body mass index and to be male. J Am Diet Assoc. 2010;110:786-790.

COMPOSITION OF SUPERCRITICAL CARBON DIOXIDE EXTRACTS OF PITANGA (EUGENIA UNIFLORA L.) LEAVES

The leaves of the Pitanga bush (Eugenia uniflora L.) are considered to be effective against many diseases. Extracts from Pitanga leaves have been found to show pronounced anti-inflammatory action and to have antimicrobial and antifungal activities, among other properties. In this work, extracts from Pitanga leaves were obtained by hydrodistillation and by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO(2)) at three conditions of temperature and pressure. In the SC-CO(2) extractions also were collected the components that are lost with the CO(2) in the exit of the system using Porapak-Q polymer trap. All extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Thirty-nine compounds were found in the extracts and twenty-six were identified. The main components identified in the extracts in decreasing quantitative order were: curzerene, germacrene B, C(15)H(20)O(2) and beta-elemene for hydrodistillation; C(15)H(20)O(2) and curzerene for SC-CO(2) extracts and 3-hexen-1-ol, curzerene, C(15)H(20)O(2), beta-elemene and germacrene B for SC-CO(2) extracts captured in Porapak-Q. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS The natural extracts are a potential source of compounds possessing biological activities. They can be used in foods, pharmaceutics and cosmetics. Pitanga is an exotic fruit from Brazil and extracts from its leaves have been used against many diseases in Brazilian folk medicine. Supercritical extraction is an interesting process for the production of natural extracts because it is a clean process and the knowledge of composition of extracts is crucial for the identification of the probable active components.

Reliable and fast sensor for in vitro evaluation of solar protection factor based on the photobleaching kinetics of a nanocrystalline TiO(2)/dye UV-dosimeter

A reliable and fast sensor for in vitro evaluation of solar protection factors (SPFs) of cosmetic products, based on the photobleaching kinetics of a nanocrystalline TiO(2)/dye UV-dosimeter, has been devised. The accuracy, robustness and suitability of the new device was demonstrated by the excellent matching of the predicted and the in vivo results up to SPF 70, for four standard samples analyzed in blind. These results strongly suggest that our device can be useful for routine SPF evaluation in laboratories devoted to the development or production of cosmetic formulations, since the conventional in vitro methods tend to exhibit unacceptably high errors above SPF similar to 30 and the conventional in vivo methods tend to be expensive and exceedingly time consuming. (C) 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.