The lifecycle of the fashion garment : voices of mass market designers

For the Australian fashion industry to move towards a more socially and environmentally ethical industry, change to existing processes would need to occur in all market levels. Change is particularly needed in the mass market, where larger volumes inevitably lead to greater environmental impact. Recent trends in eco fashion have waxed and waned, with only minor impact on the methodology of the mass market design process, with greenwashing and confusion of concepts being common problems. In the mass market, the product lifecycle begins in the design room and ends on the retail floor. A design process for sustainability necessarily expands this lifecycle, assessing the impact of every stage in the life of a fashion garment from the fibre and textiles through to consumer use, to eventual disposal and beyond disposal to fibre recycling and reuse or resale. However, how easy is it for designers to consider a wider view of the product lifecycle in their design process? How much autonomy do they have over their design process, and where do they believe their responsibility begins and ends for the garments they design? This paper will present some preliminary findings from interviews with designers in the Australian women’s wear mass market, revealing their concerns and views on the challenges of a sustainability for their industry.

Copyright enforcement in the networked society : guiding principles for protecting copyright

This paper argues that any future copyright policy should be proportional and flexible and be developed from a clear and evidence-based approach. An approach is required that carefully balances the incentives and rewards provided to economic rights holders against fundamental rights of privacy, self-expression, due process and the user rights embodied in copyright law to protect access, learning, critique, and reuse. This paper also suggests that while adequate enforcement measures are certainly part of a solution to a well functioning lawful, enforcement alone can never solve the root cause of unlawful file-sharing, since it utterly fails to address supply-side market barriers. Focus on enforcement measures alone continues to leave out a legitimate but un-served market demand, susceptible to unlawful alternatives. A competitive and consumer friendly digital content market and an appropriate legal framework to enable easy lawful access to digital content are essential preconditions for the creation of a culture of lawful, rather than unlawful, consumption.

Free our cultural archives.

Australians are the creators and custodians of a broad range of cultural materials. This material includes literary, photographic, video and audio archives. These archives should be made available to all Australians for access and reuse, as part of a pre-competitive platform which promotes the interests of the Australian public in gaining access to a diverse range of content that contributes to the development of national and cultural identity. This does not mean that all material must be made available for access and reuse for free and in an unrestricted fashion. But for publicly funded content, free and unrestricted access should be the default. The Venturous Australia report on the National Innovation System recommended that “[t]o the maximum extent possible, information, research and content funded by Australian governments – including national collections – should be made freely available over the internet as part of the global public commons.”1 The report further stated that “both for its direct and indirect benefits to Australia and for the greater global good, Australia should energetically and proudly maximise the extent to which it makes government funded content available as part of the global digital commons...

VIVO as an Institutional Data Registry

The Queensland University of Technology (QUT) in Brisbane, Australia, is involved in a number of projects funded by the Australian National Data Service (ANDS). Currently, QUT is working on a project (Metadata Stores Project) that uses open source VIVO software to aid in the storage and management of metadata relating to data sets created/managed by the QUT research community. The registry (called QUT Research Data Finder) will support the sharing and reuse of research datasets, within and external to QUT. QUT uses VIVO for both the display and the editing of research metadata.

How much is that data in the window? Advertising your research data with QUT Library

Queensland University of Technology (QUT) Library offers a range of resources and services to researchers as part of their research support portfolio. This poster will present key features of two of the data management services offered by research support staff at QUT Library. The first service is QUT Research Data Finder (RDF), a product of the Australian National Data Service (ANDS) funded Metadata Stores project. RDF is a data registry (metadata repository) that aims to publicise datasets that are research outputs arising from completed QUT research projects. The second is a software and code registry, which is currently under development with the sole purpose of improving discovery of source code and software as QUT research outputs. RESEARCH DATA FINDER As an integrated metadata repository, Research Data Finder aligns with institutional sources of truth, such as QUT’s research administration system, ResearchMaster, as well as QUT’s Academic Profiles system to provide high quality data descriptions that increase awareness of, and access to, shareable research data. The repository and its workflows are designed to foster better data management practices, enhance opportunities for collaboration and research, promote cross-disciplinary research and maximise the impact of existing research data sets. SOFTWARE AND CODE REGISTRY The QUT Library software and code registry project stems from concerns amongst researchers with regards to development activities, storage, accessibility, discoverability and impact, sharing, copyright and IP ownership of software and code. As a result, the Library is developing a registry for code and software research outputs, which will use existing Research Data Finder architecture. The underpinning software for both registries is VIVO, open source software developed by Cornell University. The registry will use the Research Data Finder service instance of VIVO and will include a searchable interface, links to code/software locations and metadata feeds to Research Data Australia. Key benefits of the project include:improving the discoverability and reuse of QUT researchers’ code and software amongst QUT and the QUT research community; increasing the profile of QUT research outputs on a national level by providing a metadata feed to Research Data Australia, and; improving the metrics for access and reuse of code and software in the repository.

Implementing open licensing in government open data initiatives : a review of Australian government practice

As support grows for greater access to information and data held by governments, so does awareness of the need for appropriate policy, technical and legal frameworks to achieve the desired economic and societal outcomes. Since the late 2000s numerous international organizations, inter-governmental bodies and governments have issued open government data policies, which set out key principles underpinning access to, and the release and reuse of data. These policies reiterate the value of government data and establish the default position that it should be openly accessible to the public under transparent and non-discriminatory conditions, which are conducive to innovative reuse of the data. A key principle stated in open government data policies is that legal rights in government information must be exercised in a manner that is consistent with and supports the open accessibility and reusability of the data. In particular, where government information and data is protected by copyright, access should be provided under licensing terms which clearly permit its reuse and dissemination. This principle has been further developed in the policies issued by Australian Governments into a specific requirement that Government agencies are to apply the Creative Commons Attribution licence (CC BY) as the default licensing position when releasing government information and data. A wide-ranging survey of the practices of Australian Government agencies in managing their information and data, commissioned by the Office of the Australian Information Commissioner in 2012, provides valuable insights into progress towards the achievement of open government policy objectives and the adoption of open licensing practices. The survey results indicate that Australian Government agencies are embracing open access and a proactive disclosure culture and that open licensing under Creative Commons licences is increasingly prevalent. However, the finding that ‘[t]he default position of open access licensing is not clearly or robustly stated, nor properly reflected in the practice of Government agencies’ points to the need to further develop the policy framework and the principles governing information access and reuse, and to provide practical guidance tools on open licensing if the broadest range of government information and data is to be made available for innovative reuse.

CIB White Paper on IDDS Integrated Design & Delivery Solutions

CIB is developing a priority theme, now termed Improving Construction and Use through Integrated Design & Delivery Solutions (IDDS). The IDDS working group for this theme adopted the following definition: Integrated Design and Delivery Solutions use collaborative work processes and enhanced skills, with integrated data, information, and knowledge management to minimize structural and process inefficiencies and to enhance the value delivered during design, build, and operation, and across projects. The design, construction, and commissioning sectors have been repeatedly analysed as inefficient and may or may not be quite as bad as portrayed; however, there is unquestionably significant scope for IDDS to improve the delivery of value to clients, stakeholders (including occupants), and society in general, simultaneously driving down cost and time to deliver operational constructed facilities. Although various initiatives developed from computer‐aided design and manufacturing technologies, lean construction, modularization, prefabrication and integrated project delivery are currently being adopted by some sectors and specialisations in construction; IDDS provides the vision for a more holistic future transformation. Successful use of IDDS requires improvements in work processes, technology, and people’s capabilities to span the entire construction lifecycle from conception through design, construction, commissioning, operation, refurbishment/ retrofit and recycling, and considering the building’s interaction with its environment. This vision extends beyond new buildings to encompass modifications and upgrades, particularly those aimed at improved local and area sustainability goals. IDDS will facilitate greater flexibility of design options, work packaging strategies and collaboration with suppliers and trades, which will be essential to meet evolving sustainability targets. As knowledge capture and reuse become prevalent, IDDS best practice should become the norm, rather than the exception.

Straightforward data management at QUT

QUT Library Research Support has simplified and streamlined the process of research data management planning, storage, discovery and reuse through collaboration and the use of integrated and tailored online tools, and a simplification of the metadata schema. This poster presents the integrated data management services a QUT, including QUT’s Data Management Planning Tool, Research Data Finder, Spatial Data Finder and Software Finder, and information on the simplified Registry Interchange Format – Collections and Services (RIF-CS) Schema. The QUT Data Management Planning (DMP) Tool was built using the Digital Curation Centre’s DMP Online Tool and modified to QUT’s needs and policies. The tool allows researchers and Higher Degree Research students to plan how to handle research data throughout the active phase of their research. The plan is promoted as a ‘live’ document’ and researchers are encouraged to update it as required. The information entered into the plan can be made private or shared with supervisors, project members and external examiners. A plan is mandatory when requesting storage space on the QUT Research Data Storage Service. QUT’s Research Data Finder is integrated with QUT’s Academic Profiles and the Data Management Planning Tool to create a seamless data management process. This process aims to encourage the creation of high quality rich records which facilitate discovery and reuse of quality data. The Registry Interchange Format – Collections and Services (RIF-CS) Schema that is used in the QUT Research Data Finder was simplified to “RIF-CS lite” to reflect mandatory and optional metadata requirements. RIF-CS lite removed schema fields that were underused or extra to the needs of the users and system. This has reduced the amount of metadata fields required from users and made integration of systems a far more simple process where field content is easily shared across services making the process of collecting metadata as transparent as possible.

Segregating Discourse Segments from Engineering Documents for Knowledge Acquisition

The broader goal of the research being described here is to automatically acquire diagnostic knowledge from documents in the domain of manual and mechanical assembly of aircraft structures. These documents are treated as a discourse used by experts to communicate with others. It therefore becomes possible to use discourse analysis to enable machine understanding of the text. The research challenge addressed in the paper is to identify documents or sections of documents that are potential sources of knowledge. In a subsequent step, domain knowledge will be extracted from these segments. The segmentation task requires partitioning the document into relevant segments and understanding the context of each segment. In discourse analysis, the division of a discourse into various segments is achieved through certain indicative clauses called cue phrases that indicate changes in the discourse context. However, in formal documents such language may not be used. Hence the use of a domain specific ontology and an assembly process model is proposed to segregate chunks of the text based on a local context. Elements of the ontology/model, and their related terms serve as indicators of current context for a segment and changes in context between segments. Local contexts are aggregated for increasingly larger segments to identify if the document (or portions of it) pertains to the topic of interest, namely, assembly. Knowledge acquired through such processes enables acquisition and reuse of knowledge during any part of the lifecycle of a product.

Produção de biodiesel a partir da alcoólise do óleo de palma

No presente trabalho foi investigada a produção de biodiesel a partir da alcoólise do óleo de palma catalisada por lipase imobilizada comercial. O efeito da razão molar de álcool:óleo, da forma de adição do álcool (única e escalonada), da temperatura de reação, da concentração de enzima, do tipo de álcool (metanol e etanol), do tipo de enzima e da reutilização da enzima no rendimento final de reação foi avaliado. As reações conduzidas com etanol apresentaram rendimentos superiores aos obtidos com o emprego de metanol devido à maior desativação da lipase pelo álcool de menor número de átomos de carbono. O maior rendimento em biodiesel (54%) foi obtido empregando razão molar de álcool:óleo de 3:1, com adição escalonada de etanol (0, 30 e 60 minutos), 9% (m/m) de Lipozyme TL IM a 50C. Não foi possível recuperar a lipase ao final das reações, pois a matriz de imobilização se solubilizou no meio. Além disso, para comparação, foi investigada a utilização das lipases comerciais imobilizadas Lipozyme RM IM e Novozym 435 e dos catalisadores químicos KOH, MgO e La2O3. O rendimento em biodiesel nas reações catalisadas pelas lipases foi maior do que os obtidos com catalisadores químicos. A menor eficiência dos catalisadores químicos pode ser justificada pelo alto índice de acidez do óleo de palma (6,26 mg KOH.g-1) que promove o consumo do catalisador (KOH), devido à neutralização dos ácidos graxos livres presentes no óleo, e o bloqueio dos sítios ativos dos catalisadores químicos sólidos devido à adsorção dos ácidos graxos nestes sítios

Diagnóstico da gestão de resíduos na construção civil comparação de obras no Rio de Janeiro visando a certificação LEED e obras sem certificação.

A implantação de práticas de gestão ambiental nos canteiros de obras se tornou de fundamental importância para o setor da construção civil. Nas obras de edificação que visam obter a certificação LEED, são implementadas práticas que buscam a minimização e o reaproveitamento dos resíduos de construção civil, representando uma possibilidade de redução dos impactos ambientais produzidos pelo setor. Este trabalho apresenta um estudo comparativo sobre a geração de resíduos de quatro obras de edificações no município do Rio de Janeiro, sendo que duas delas implantaram práticas para obtenção da certificação LEED. Complementarmente, foi realizada uma pesquisa através de questionário com profissionais da construção civil buscando identificar a sua percepção sobre construções sustentáveis e gerenciamento de resíduos sólidos. Desconsiderando o solo de escavação, o entulho foi o resíduo mais gerado em todas as quatro obras, seguido pela sucata metálica, resíduos não recicláveis e madeira. A obra com certificação LEED apresentou o menor índice total de resíduos, 119,23 kg/m2, sendo este valor próximo às médias de países desenvolvidos.

Análise do modo de apropriação do marco regulatório do uso de animais na pesquisa científica no Brasil: estudo de caso da Fundação Oswaldo Cruz

Após 13 anos de debate parlamentar, o governo federal instituiu em 8 de outubro de 2008 uma nova ordem jurídico-administrativa através da Lei n.11.794 que foi regulamentada em 15 de julho de 2009 com o Decreto 6.899. A nova legislação introduziu modelos de condutas que antes não existiam, criou o Conselho Nacional de Controle de Experimentação Animal (CONCEA) e tornou obrigatória a implantação de Comissões de Ética no Uso de Animais (CEUAs) pelas instituições que criam ou utilizam animais para ensino e pesquisa. Partindo do pressuposto de que a Lei n. 11794/2008 é uma política pública regulatória de ciência, tecnologia e inovação em saúde (CT&I/S), o objetivo deste trabalho é demonstrar que a implementação da política regulatória em uma instituição pública federal de pesquisa em saúde é um processo atravessado por relações transnacionais, pelas interpretações que os atores da pesquisa fazem da Lei com base em suas práticas de trabalho, e pelas ações institucionais de tradução local de outras políticas governamentais. O estudo contempla dois níveis de descrição e análise complementares: o da formulação e o da implementação da política regulatória na Fiocruz. O primeiro descreve e analisa o processo de tramitação do Projeto de Lei que originou a Lei e sua regulamentação pelo CONCEA, até dezembro de 2011. O segundo é um estudo de caso inspirado pela abordagem interpretativa, centrado na tradução da Lei pelos pesquisadores, especialistas e gestores da Fiocruz em relação às suas práticas de trabalho. A tese formulada resulta do seguinte percurso metodológico: leitura do movimento de tradução dos interesses dos atores envolvidos no jogo parlamentar do Congresso Nacional de formulação, discussão e aprovação da Lei; delineamento do espaço institucional em que as interpretações dos pesquisadores estão embebidas e que as políticas de CT&I/S são implementadas; leitura das ações e dos programas em CT&I/S do MS para a Fiocruz entre 2004 e 2010; um ano de observação participante nas reuniões da Comissão de Ética no Uso de Animais da Fiocruz; entrevistas semi-estruturadas com 22 pesquisadores, gestores e especialistas em animais de laboratório para compreender o enquadramento da Lei pelos atores nas suas práticas de trabalho. Concluimos afirmando que a aproximação entre a pesquisa pré-clinica e clínica é uma estratégia de contorno às restrições vivenciadas pelos pesquisadores nos processos de trabalho com animais de pesquisa que se desenvolve no cenário da pesquisa translacional e transnacional. O modelo animal é um dispositivo que divide as comunidades instrumentais de pesquisadores biomédicos entre os que utilizam e os que não utilizam animais. A governança da pesquisa biomédica com animais de laboratório não está estabilizada no espaço institucional: as diferentes comunidades instrumentais de usuários de animais, produtores de animais, gestores e membros da CEUA estão em disputa.

KM your way to CMMI

Purpose - The purpose of this paper is to describe two related fields - knowledge management (KM) and capability maturity model integrated (CMMISM) and highlight their imilarities. Design/methodology/approach - The KM framework used for this comparison is the one established and used at Israel Aircraft Industries, while the CMMISM source of information is none but the original document produced by the CMMISM product team at the Carnegie Mellon University, as well as papers published on the subject. Findings - Knowledge management is a rather young discipline promising to maximize innovation and competitive advantage to organizations that practice knowledge capture, documentation, retrieval and reuse, creation, transfer and share to its knowledge assets in a measurable way, integrated in its operational and business processes. The capability maturity model integrated deals with the ways an organization has to follow, in order to maintain well mapped processes, having well defined stages, because of the assumption that in mature organizations, it is possible to measure and relate between the quality of the process and the quality of the product. Though KM and CMMISM take different approaches to the achievement of competitive advantage, they seem to be supporting as well as dependent of each other. Originality/value - Practitioners as well as researchers in the field of knowledge management and in the implementation of the CMMISM standard will find comfort in realizing how mutually supportive are these two fields. © Emerald Group Publishing Limited.

Visualising a stochastic model of California Water Resources Using Sankey Diagrams

This paper describes a novel approach to the analysis of supply and demand of water in California. A stochastic model is developed to assess the future supply of and demand for water resources in California. The results are presented in the form of a Sankey diagram where present and stochastically-varying future fluxes of water in California and its sub-regions are traced from source to services by mapping the various transformations of water from when it is first made available for use, through its treatment, recycling and reuse, to its eventual loss in a variety of sinks. This helps to highlight the connections of water with energy and land resources, including the amount of energy used to pump and treat water, the amount of water used for energy production, and the land resources that create a water demand to produce crops for food. By mapping water in this way, policy-makers can more easily understand the competing uses of water, through the identification of the services it delivers (e.g. sanitation, food production, landscaping), the potential opportunities for improving themanagement of the resource and the connections with other resources which are often overlooked in a traditional sector-based management strategy. This paper focuses on a Sankey diagram for water, but the ultimate aim is the visualisation of linked resource futures through inter-connected Sankey diagrams for energy, land and water, tracking changes from the basic resources for all three, their transformations, and the final services they provide.