936 resultados para Designer de Moda


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Este anuário apresenta sínteses de pesquisas realizadas pelos professores pesquisadores da FGV-EAESP. Os trabalhos foram financiados pelo GVpesquisa, nossa área de apoio às atividades de pesquisa, em quatro categorias, sendo duas de apoio individual e duas de apoio coletivo, relacionadas a projetos de Linhas de Pesquisa e de Centros de Estudo. Este anuário traz, também, cinco matérias sobre temas que têm ganhado destaque na FGV-EAESP e reflete áreas emergentes de expertise da instituição: competitividade internacional, qualidade da gestão pública, políticas de desenvolvimento, economia verde e inclusiva, e educação e capital humano. Examinados em conjunto, estes textos oferecem uma visão panorâmica da diversidade e da riqueza das reflexões realizadas pelos pesquisadores da instituição. Permitem, ainda, identificar oportunidades para futuros desenvolvimentos, tanto teóricos como de aplicação prática. As sínteses das pesquisas foram preparadas pelos jornalistas Lucas Callegari e Adriana Wilner. As matérias foram escritas pelas jornalistas Verônica Couto e Adriana Wilner. O projeto gráfico foi conduzido pela designer Cris Tassi, e a coordenação geral do projeto coube a Daniela Mansour M. da Silveira, da equipe GVpesquisa. A preparação das sínteses contou com decisivo apoio dos próprios autores.

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Este anuário apresenta sínteses de pesquisas realizadas pelos professores pesquisadores da FGV-EAESP. Os trabalhos foram financiados pelo GVpesquisa, nossa área de apoio às atividades de pesquisa, em quatro categorias, sendo duas categorias de apoio individual e duas categorias de apoio coletivo, relacionadas a projetos de Linhas de Pesquisa e de Centros de Estudo. Este anuário traz também matérias sobre temas que têm ganhado destaque na FGV-EAESP, retratando iniciativas que unem as atividades de ensino e de pesquisa. Examinados em conjunto, estes textos oferecem uma visão panorâmica da diversidade e da riqueza das reflexões realizadas pelos pesquisadores da instituição. Permitem também identificar oportunidades para futuros desenvolvimentos, tanto teóricos como de aplicação prática. As sínteses das pesquisas foram preparadas pelos jornalistas Lucas Callegari e Adriana Wilner. As matérias foram escritas pela jornalista Verônica Couto. O projeto gráfico foi conduzido pela designer Cris Tassi e a coordenação geral do projeto coube a Daniela Mansour M. da Silveira, da equipe GVpesquisa. A preparação das sínteses contou com decisivo apoio dos próprios autores.

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As stated by Hoffmann and Coste-Manière (2012) “The web is a mass medium that contrast completely with the traditional codes of exclusivity associated with the luxury industry, and has long been simply rejected by the luxury industry for being an illegitimate distribution channel.” Meanwhile this market presents an incomparable pace of growth and is gradually changing the existing retailing business model and companies must be aware of this change and capable to adapt to it. The internet and cross-border sales already changed the competition throughout retailing and it will increase even more, so companies must be ready to face it. Internet has shown its great opportunity for all markets, although luxury/premium market is not yet taking the proper advantage of its potential, but the necessity to be an omnichannel business strategy is growing. This paper presents an exploratory research based on a case study of how premium fashion Brazilian brands are using Farfetch, e-commerce, as an entry market strategy and how this affects them. The research question of this study is: How is Farfetch helping on the internationalization of Brazilian premium fashion brands?, and in order to answer it was conducted an in-depth interview with the Brazilian head of business development of Farfetch, apart an extensive secondary data research. As expected the study found a list of trade-offs of using an e-commerce, luxury specialized, with a marketplace approach to the brands willing to internationalize. As stated by Altagamma and McKinsey (2015) study “[...] luxury brands have no choice but to embrace the digital era and become truly omnichannel. This will require them a radical rethinking of both their customer experience of their consumer engagement strategy.” Looking either from the Farfetch point of view, trying to understand why they offer this opportunity to the brands, or also from the brand side if this is a manageable approach. This study presents a contribution for both sides, trying to give tools to the brands on understanding the internationalization reasons and approach, as well as explaining Farfetch business model, and the advantages it can bring to them, at the same time of a general market trend analysis for Farfecth.

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O presente trabalho explora as causas pelas quais o campo da moda plus size carece de legitimidade com as consumidoras plus size. Eu explorei o assunto em três artigos. No primeiro, eu estudo o processo de legitimação de um novo mercado emergente, o mercado da moda plus size brasileira e os desafios para sua a institucionalização. Eu conduzi dezessete entrevistas com consumidoras plus size, uma netnografia em quatro blogs de moda plus size brasileiros e analisei de maneira semiótica um site que vende roupas de moda plus size. Meus resultados indicam que, apesar de ter atores legítimos que promovem essas marcas de moda plus size, o campo da moda plus size ainda é percebido como uma versão vergonhosa do campo da moda. Defendo aqui que o fato de uma das lógicas de campo da moda plus size ser estigma, acaba afetando os projetos identitários das consumidoras de maneira depreciativa, de forma elas não se envolvem em práticas de capital cultural que ocorrem dentro do campo da moda plus size. No segundo artigo, eu conduzi uma introspecção genealógica em que eu pesquisei questões de identidade. Como uma mulher (que se assume ) plus size, eu imaginei que seria relevante para olhar para dentro de mim mesma, a fim de explorar a forma como a minha identidade liga-se com a rede semiótica-material que me rodeia em termos de moda, alimentos e outros elementos. Meus dados vieram tanto de técnicas de introspecção simultâneas, quanto retrospectivas. Em termos teóricos, eu usei a ideia de ―assemblages‖ e eu foquei minha análise tanto nos aspectos materiais da minha rede de consumo, quanto na estabilidade da rede. As consequências da minha assemblage estão ligadas a uma gestão de qualidade total da minha identidade, tanto online como off-line, refletidas em práticas de consumo que se conectam à ideia de uma lógica de consumo bulímica em que o consumo de alimentos e gestão corpo estão interligadas. Por fim, no meu terceiro artigo, eu explorei o conceito de identidade a partir do consumo da moda feminina plus size. Foram feitas catorze entrevistas fenomenológicas, cujos dados foram analisados a partir de uma perspectiva hermenêutica. Três categorias temáticas emergiram da análise de dados: a construção da identidade por meio da moda, elementos de identidade plus size e estratégias criativas para lidar com a falta de produtos para mulheres plus size no varejo. Entre os principais resultados, destacam-se a forma como o termo plus size atua como estigma, influenciando projetos de identidade das consumidoras, o papel do varejo no processo de estigmatização e a saga épica de compras, que envolve um "mercado negro", com a participação de vendedores. Eu concluo discutindo o papel da identidade na instabilidade do campo da moda plus size.

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O item não apresenta o texto completo, para aquisição do livro na íntegra você poderá acessar a Editora da UFSCar por meio do link: www.editora.ufscar.br

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Organizations are Complex systems. A conceptual model of the enterprise is needed that is: coherent the distinguished aspect models constitute a logical and truly integral comprehensive all relevant issues are covered consistent the aspect models are free from contradictions or irregularities concise no superfluous matters are contained in it essential it shows only the essence of the enterprise, i.e., the model abstracts from all realization and implementation issues. The world is in great need for transparency about the operation of all the systems we daily work with, ranging from the domestic appliances to the big societal institutions. In this context the field of enterprise ontology has emerged with the aim to create models that help to understand the essence of the construction and operation of complete systems; more specifically, of enterprises. Enterprise ontology arises in the way to look through the distracting and confusing appearance of an enterprise right into its deep kernel. This, from the perspective of the system designer gives him the tools needed to design a successful system in a way that’s reflects the desires and needs of the workers of the enterprise. This project’s context is the use of DEMO (Design and Engineering Methodology for Organizations) for (re)designing or (re)engineering of an enterprise, namely a process of the construction department of a city hall, the lack of a well-founded theory about the construction and operation of this processes that was the motivation behind this work. The purpose of studying applying the DEMO theory and method was to optimize the process, automating it as much as possible, while reducing paper and time spent between tasks and provide a better service to the citizens.

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This work has as its main purpose to investigate the contribution of supply chain management in order to obtain competitive advantage by companies from the textile industry and from Ceará footwear industry, focusing its analysis mainly in the interorganizational relations (dyadic). For this, the theoretical referential contemplates different explanatory streams of the competitive advantage, detaching the relational perception of the resources theory, as well as, the main presuppositions of the supply chain management which culminates with the development of an analysis sample that runs the empirical study; the one which considers an expanded purpose of the supply chain which includes the government and the abetment institutions as institutional environment representatives. Besides supply chain management consideration as a competitive advantage source, the work also tried to identify other possible competitive advantage sources for the companies of the investigated sectors. It represents a study of multiple interpretive cases, having four cases as a total; meaning two cases in each one of the sectors, which used as a primary data collecting instrument a semi-structured interview schedule. Different methods were used for the data analysis, the content analysis and the constant comparison methods, the analytical procedure originated from the grounded theory research strategy, which were applied the Atlas/ti software recourse. Considering the theoretical referential and the used analysis sample, four basic categories of the work were defined, including its respective proprieties and dimensions: (1) characteristics concerning to the relationship with the supplier; (2) the company relations with the government; (3) the company relations with the abetment institutions and; (4) obtaining sources of competitive advantage. In general, the applied research in the footwear sector revealed that in the relationships of the researched companies related to its suppliers, there is a predominance of the partnership system and the main presuppositions of the supply chain management are applied which contributes for the acquisition of the relational competitive advantage; while in the textile sector, only some of these presuppositions are applied, with little contribution for the relational competitive advantage. The main resource which was accessed by the companies in both sectors through its relationships with the government and the abetment institutions are the tax incentives which, for the footwear companies, contribute for the acquisition of the temporary competitive advantage in relation to the contestants who do not own productive installations in the Northeast region, it also conducts to a competitive parity situation in relation to the contestants who own productive installations in the Northeast region and to the external market contestants; while for the companies of the textile sector, the tax incentives run the companies to a competitive parity situation in relation to its contestants. Furthermore, the investigated companies from the two sectors possess acquisition sources of the competitive advantage which collimate with different explanatory streams (industrial analysis, resources theory, Austrian school and the dynamic capabilities theory), although there is a predominance of the product innovation as a competitive advantage source in both sectors, due to the bond of these with the fashion tendencies

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This thesis aims to describe and demonstrate the developed concept to facilitate the use of thermal simulation tools during the building design process. Despite the impact of architectural elements on the performance of buildings, some influential decisions are frequently based solely on qualitative information. Even though such design support is adequate for most decisions, the designer will eventually have doubts concerning the performance of some design decisions. These situations will require some kind of additional knowledge to be properly approached. The concept of designerly ways of simulating focuses on the formulation and solution of design dilemmas, which are doubts about the design that cannot be fully understood nor solved without using quantitative information. The concept intends to combine the power of analysis from computer simulation tools with the capacity of synthesis from architects. Three types of simulation tools are considered: solar analysis, thermal/energy simulation and CFD. Design dilemmas are formulated and framed according to the architect s reflection process about performance aspects. Throughout the thesis, the problem is investigated in three fields: professional, technical and theoretical fields. This approach on distinct parts of the problem aimed to i) characterize different professional categories with regards to their design practice and use of tools, ii) investigate preceding researchers on the use of simulation tools and iii) draw analogies between the proposed concept, and some concepts developed or described in previous works about design theory. The proposed concept was tested in eight design dilemmas extracted from three case studies in the Netherlands. The three investigated processes are houses designed by Dutch architectural firms. Relevant information and criteria from each case study were obtained through interviews and conversations with the involved architects. The practical application, despite its success in the research context, allowed the identification of some applicability limitations of the concept, concerning the architects need to have technical knowledge and the actual evolution stage of simulation tools

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This work supports the formalist education s improvement of the Brazilian architect and urban designer through a better application and systematization of the computer science s teaching potentialities. The research analyzes the discipline introduction in the Brazilian courses: Computer Science Applied to Architecture and Urbanism (InfoAU) in the Architecture and Urbanism Courses of Brazil (CAUs). It goes since the discipline was obligated by the MEC s Regulation nr. 1.770 from 1994 until the CNE/CES Resolution nr. 6 from 2006; it comprehends the discipline implantation, development and current context, in order to get more detailed, the research analyses three federal universities from the Northeast of the country: UFRN, UFPB and UFPE. Once identified the historical educational needs in the CAUs, the study focus on the computer science s increasing potential as an agent of integration, communication, development and knowledge/data management. It points out new social perspectives for a better use of this tool/mechanism, which adequately structuralized and integrated, creates propitious educational and professional performance/recycling conditions and a propeller instrument of research and extension activities. Among this work, it is suggested the aggregation of elements, which are complementary to the InfoAU discipline s reorganization, throughout a computerization s plan for the CAUs, extensive to the professional formation, generating a virtuous cycle in several activities of the academic, administrative and, research and extension s departments. Therefore, the InfoAU in the Brazilian CAUs context was analyzed; the main solutions and problems found were systemized; the possibilities of computer science s uses inside AU ware structuralized, InfoAU discipline s improvement plan was also defined, as well as strategies for the implementation of the computerization s plan for the CAUs, which would guarantee its maintenance in a continuity perspective

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Portland-polymers composites are promising candidates to be used as cementing material in Northeastern oil wells of Brazil containing heavy oils submitted to steam injection. In this way, it is necessary to evaluate its degradation in the commonly acidizind agents. In addition, to identify how aggressive are the different hostile environments it is an important contribution on the decision of the acidic systems to be used in. It was investigated the performance of the Portland-polymer composites using powdered polyurethane, aqueous polyurethane, rubber tire residues and a biopolymer, those were reinforced with polished carbon steel SAE 1045 to make the electrochemical measurements. HCl 15,0 %, HCl 6,0 % + HF 1,5 % (soft mud acid), HCl 12,0 % + HF 3,0 % (regular mud acid) and HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % were used as degrading environment and electrolytes. The more aggressive acid solution to the plain Portland hardened cement paste was the regular mud acid, that showed loss of weight around 23.0 %, followed by the soft mud acid, the showed 11.0 %, 15.0 % HCl with 7,0 % and, at last the 10.0 % HAc plus HF 1.5 % with just 1.0 %. The powdered polyurethane-composite and the aqueous polyurethane one showed larger durability, with reduction around 87.0 % on the loss of weight in regular mud acid. The acid attack is superficial and it occurs as an action layer, where the degraded layer is responsible for the decrease on the kinetic of the degrading process. This behavior can be seen mainly on the Portland- aqueous polyurethane composite, because the degraded layer is impregnated with chemically modified polymer. The fact of the acid attack does not have influence on the compressive strength or fratography of the samples, in a general way, confirms that theory. The mechanism of the efficiency of the Portland-polymers composites subjected to acid attack is due to decreased porosity and permeability related with the plain Portland paste, minor quantity of Ca+2, element preferentially leached to the acidic solution, wave effect and to substitute part of the degrading bulk for the polymeric one. The electrolyte HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % was the least aggressive one to the external corrosion of the casing, showing open circuit potentials around +250 mV compared to -130 mV to the simulated pore solution to the first 24 hours immersion. This behavior has been performed for two months at least. Similar corrosion rates were showed between both of the electrolytes, around 0.01 μA.cm-2. Total impedance values, insipient arcs and big polarization resistance capacitive arcs on the Nyquist plots, indicating passivity process, confirm its efficiency. In this way, Portlandpolymers composites are possible solutions to be succeed applied to oilwell cementing concomitant submitted to steam injection and acidizing operation and the HAc 10,0 % + HF 1,5 % is the less aggressive solution to the external corrosion of the casing

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Cells the solid oxide fuel are systems capable to directly convert energy of a chemical reaction into electric energy in clean, quiet way and if its components in the solid state differentiate of excessively the techniques for having all. Its more common geometric configurations are: the tubular one and to glide. Geometry to glide beyond the usual components (anode, cathode and electrolyte) needs interconnect and sealant. E the search for materials adjusted for these components is currently the biggest challenge found for the production of the cells. The sealants need to present chemical stability in high temperatures, to provoke electric isolation, to have coefficient of compatible thermal expansion with the excessively component ones. For presenting these characteristics the glass-ceramics materials are recommended for the application. In this work the study of the partial substitution of the ZrO2 for the Al2O3 in system LZS became it aiming at the formation of system LZAS, this with the addition of natural spodumene with 10, 20 and 30% in mass. The compositions had been casting to a temperature of 1500°C and later quickly cooled with the objective to continue amorphous. Each composition was worn out for attainment of a dust with average diameter of approximately 3μm and characterized by the techniques of DRX, FRX, MEV, dilatometric analysis and particle size analysis. Later the samples had been conformed and treated thermally with temperatures in the interval between 700-1000 °C, with platform of 10 minutes and 1 hour. The analyses for the treated samples had been: dilatometric analysis, DRX, FRX, electrical conductivity and tack. The results point with respect to the viability of the use of system LZAS for use as sealant a time that had presented good results as isolating electric, they had adhered to a material with similar α of the components of a SOFC and had presented steady crystalline phases

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O presente trabalho é o estudo dos aspectos da metodologia projetual, face às novas tecnologias da informática, Inteligência Artificial (Sistemas Especialistas) e CAD, consideradas as reais possibilidades de automatização no processo de concepção em Design. Esse artigo propõe uma metodologia para a construção de sistema inteligente capaz de auxiliar o designer nas tarefas projetuais. A indústria de calçados foi utilizada como estudo de caso para a aplicação da metodologia, onde as reais possibilidades de automação são verificadas.

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Analisou-se a produção do tomateiro, híbrido longa vida Carmen, cultivado em quatro substratos, com fertirrigação semanal e duas vezes por semana. O delineamento experimental utilizado foi blocos casualizados, em esquema fatorial 4 x 2 (quatro substratos e duas formas de fertirrigação), em quatro repetições. Os substratos testados foram: S1 = areia fina (0,250 - 0,105 mm); S2 = 1/2 areia fina + 1/2 bagaço de cana-de-açúcar; S3 = 1/2 areia fina + 1/2 casca de amendoim moída (passada em peneira com abertura de 7 x 18 mm) e S4 = 1/3 areia fina + 1/3 bagaço de cana-de-açúcar + 1/3 casca de amendoim moída. As fertirrigações avaliadas foram: F1 = fertirrigação realizada uma vez por semana, com aplicação da quantidade total de nutrientes e, F2 = fertirrigação realizada duas vezes por semana, com aplicação da metade da quantidade total de nutrientes, demandada por semana, em cada vez. A quantidade de nutrientes, em mg L-1, fornecida por meio de fertirrigação, foi: 200 de nitrogênio, 60 de fósforo, 350 de potássio, 206 de cálcio, 60 de magnésio, 150 de enxofre, 0,50 de boro, 0,10 de cobre, 2 de ferro, 0,75 de manganês, 0,10 de zinco e 0,01 de molibdênio. A dotação hídrica foi realizada em função dos dados obtidos em um tanque classe A, localizado no centro da casa de vegetação. Avaliou-se a altura das plantas, o número de cachos e de frutos por planta, o peso individual do fruto e a produção por planta. Os dados foram submetidos à análise de variância e as médias foram comparadas pelo teste de Tukey, ao nível de 5% de probabilidade. Verificou-se que a fertirrigação realizada duas vezes por semana, suprindo a demanda total de nutrientes da semana, resultou em consideráveis melhorias de produção. Os substratos utilizados, com exceção do substrato S2, apresentaram potencial de uso para o cultivo do tomateiro em ambiente protegido.