comptes rendus sténographiques, tenu à Paris, les 25 et 26 juin 1878. No. 2 de la série.

At head of title: Ministère de l'agriculture et du commerce, Exposition universelle internationale de 1878, à Paris, Congrès et conférences du Palais du Trocadero.

Illustrated catalogue of the extraordinary collection of art treasures and antiquities acquired during the past year by Professor commendatore Elia Volpi ... and recently brought to America by their owner. To be sold at unrestricted public sale at the American Art Galleries.

Italian furniture, textiles and embroideries, art objects and paintings.

Catálogo de la exposición de tejidos españoles anteriores a la introducción del Jacquard,

On spine: Exposición de tejidos españoles antiguos.

History of American textiles : with kindred and auxiliary industries (illustrated) /

"A popular and accurate historical account of the growth and development of the making of American fabrics accompanied by sketches and illustrations of the men and establishments that have made one of the world's greatest industries."

The arts and crafts of older Spain,

Bibliography: v. 3, p. [259]-268.

Ten centuries of art. Its progress in Europe from the IXth to the XIXth century.

Architecture.--Sculpture.--Painting.--Metal work.--Ivory and wood carving.--Glass and pottery.--Textile fabrics.--Mosaic.

Investigations of the Toxic Effect of Silver Nanoparticles on Mammalian Cell Lines

Silver nanoparticles are widely used for many applications. In this study silver nanoparticles have been tested for their toxic effect on fibroblasts (NIH-3T3), on a human lung adenocarcinoma epithelial cell line (A-549), on PC-12-cells, a rat adrenal pheochromocytoma cell line, and on HEP-G2-cells, a human hepatocellular carcinoma cell line. The viability of the cells cultivated with different concentrations of silver was determined by the MTT assay, a photometric method to determine cell metabolism. Dose-response curves were extrapolated and IC50, total lethal concentration (TLC), and no observable adverse effect concentration (NOAEC) values were calculated for each cell line. As another approach, ECIS (electric-cell-substrate-impedance-sensing) an automated method to monitor cellular behavior in real-time was applied to observe cells cultivated with silver nanoparticles. To identify the type of cell death the membrane integrity was analyzed by measurements of the lactate dehydrogenase releases and by determination of the caspase 3/7 activity. To ensure that the cytotoxic effect of silver nanoparticles is not traced back to the presence of Ag+ ions in the suspension, an Ag+ salt (AgNO3) has been examined at the same concentration of Ag+ present in the silver nanoparticle suspension that is assuming that the Ag particles are completely available as Ag+ ions.

Anthraquinones from the Fungus Dermocybe sanguinea as Textile Dyes

This study is based on the multidiciplinary approach of using natural colorants as textile dyes. The author was interested in both the historical and traditional aspects of natural dyeing as well as the modern industrial applications of the pure natural compounds. In the study, the anthraquinone compounds were isolated as aglycones from the ectomycorrhizal fungus Dermocybe sanguinea. The endogenous beta-glucosidase of the fungus was used to catalyse the hydrolysis of the O-glycosyl linkage in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides. The method, in which 10.45 kg of fresh fungi was starting material, yielded two fractions: 56.0 g of Fraction 1 (94% of the total amount of pigment,) consisting almost exclusively of the main pigments emodin and dermocybin, and 3.3 g of Fraction 2 (6%) consisting mainly of the anthraquinone carboxylic acids. The anthraquinone compounds in Fractions 1 and 2 were separated by one- and two-dimensional thin-layer-chromatography (TLC) using silica plates. 1D TLC showed that neither an acidic nor a basic solvent system alone separated completely all the anthraquinones isolated from D. sanguinea, in spite of the variation of the rations of the solvent components in the systems. Thus, a new 2D TLC technique was developed, applying n-pentanol-pyridine-methanol (6:4:3, v/v/v) and toluene-ethyl acetate-ethanol-formic acid (10:8:1:2, v/v/v/v) as eluents. Fifteen different anthraquinone derivatives were completely separated from one another. Emodin, physcion, endocrocin, dermolutein, dermorubin, 5-chlorodermorubin, emodin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside, dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranoside and dermocybin, and five new compounds, not earlier identified in D. sanguinea, 7-chloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroemodin, 5,7-dichloroendocrocin, 4-hydroxyaustrocorticone and austrocorticone, were separated and identified on the basis of their Rf-values, UV/Vis spectra and mass spectra. One substance remained unidentified, because of its very low concentration. The anthraquinones in Fractions 1 and 2 were preparatively separeted by liquid-liquid partition, with isopropylmethyl ketone and aqueous phosphate buffer as the solvent system. Advantage was taken of the principle of stepwise pH-gradient elution. The multiple liquid-liquid partition (MLLP) offered an excellent method for the preparative separation of compounds, which contain acidic groups such as the phenolic OH and COOH groups. Due to their strong aggregation properties, these compounds are, without derivatization, very difficult to separate on a preparative scale by chromatographic methods. By the MLLP method remarkable separations were achieved for the components in each mixture. Emodin and dermocybin were both obtained from Fraction 1 in a purity of at least 99%. Pure emodin and dermocybin were applied as mordant dyes to wool and polyamide and as disperse dyes to polyester and polyamide, using the high temperature (HT) technique. A mixture of dermorubin and 5-chlorodermorubin was applied as an acid dye to wool. In these experiments, synthetic dyes were used as references. Experiments were also performed using water extract of the air-dried fungi as dye liquor for wool and silk. The main colouring compounds in the crude water extract were emodin and dermocybin, which indicated that the O-glycosyl linkages in emodin- and dermocybin-1-beta-D-glucopyranosides were broken by the beta-glucosidase enzyme. Apparently, the hydrolysis occurred during the drying of the fungi and during the soaking of the dried fruit bodies overnight when preparing the dyebath. The colour of each dyed material was investigated in terms of the CIELAB L*, a* and b* values, and the colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing was tested according to the ISO standards. In the mordant dyeing experiments, emodin dyed wool and polyamide yellow and red, depending on the pH of the dyebath. Dermocybin gave purple and violet colours. The colour fastness of the mordant-dyed fabrics varied from good to moderate. The fastness properties of the natural anthraquinone carboxylic acids on wool were good, indicating the strength of the ionic bonds between the COO- groups of the dyes and the NH3+ groups of the fibres. In the disperse dyeing experiments, emodin dyed polyester bright yellow and dermocybin bright reddish-orange, and the fabrics showed excellent colour fastness. In contrast, emodin and dermocybin successfully dyed polyamide brownish-orange and wine-red, respectively, but with only moderate fastness. In industrial dyeing processes, natural anthraquinone aglycone mixtures dyed wool and silk well even at low concentrations of mordants, i.e. with 10% of the weight of the fibre (owf) of KAl(SO4)2 and 1 or 0.5% owf of other mordants. This study showed that purified natural anthraquinone compounds can produce bright hues with good colour-fastness properties in different textile materials. Natural anthraquinones have a significant potential for new dyeing techniques and will provide useful alternatives to synthetic dyes.

Superhydrophobic fabrics for oil-water separation based on the metal organic charge transfer complex CuTCNAQ

This work reports on the fabrication of a superhydrophobic nylon textile based on the organic charge transfer complex CuTCNAQ (TCNAQ = 11,11,12,12-tetracyanoanthraquinodimethane). The nylon fabric that is metallized with copper undergoes a spontaneous chemical reaction with TCNAQ dissolved in acetonitrile to form nanorods of CuTCNAQ that are intertwined over the entire surface of the fabric. This creates the necessary micro and nanoscale roughness that is required for the Cassie-Baxter state thereby achieving a superhydrophobic/superoleophilic surface without the need for a fluorinated surface. The material is characterised with SEM, FT-IR and XPS spectroscopy and investigated for its ability to separate oil and water in two modes, namely under gravity and as an absorbent. It is found that the fabric can separate dichloromethane, olive oil and crude oil from water and in fact reduce the water content of the oil during the separation process. The fabric is reusable and tolerant to conditions such as seawater, hydrochloric acid and extensive time periods on the shelf. Given that CuTCNAQ is a copper based semiconductor may also open up the possibility of other applications in areas such as photocatalysis and antibacterial applications.

The effect of 3D weaving and consolidation on carbon fiber tows, fabrics, and composites

This article investigates the damage imparted on load-bearing carbon fibers during the 3D weaving process and the subsequent compaction behavior of 3D woven textile preforms. The 3D multi-layer reinforcements were manufactured on a textile loom with few mechanical modifications to produce preforms with fibers orientated in the warp, weft, and through-the-thickness directions. Tensile tests were conducted on three types of commercially available carbon fibers, 12k HTA, 6k HTS, and 3k HTS in an attempt to quantify the effect of fiber damage induced during the 3D weaving process on the mechanical and physical performance of the fiber tows in the woven composite. The tests were conducted on fiber tows sampled from different locations in the manufacturing process from the bobbin, through the creel and loom mechanism, to the final woven fabric. Mechanical and physical testing were then conducted to quantify the tow geometry, orientation and the effect of compaction during manufacture of two styles of 3D woven composite by vacuumassisted resin transfer molding (VaRTM).

A low-cost digital image correlation technique for characterising the shear deformation of fabrics for draping studies

A novel digital image correlation (DIC) technique has been developed to track changes in textile yarn orientations during shear characterisation experiments, requiring only low-cost digital imaging equipment. Fabric shear angles and effective yarn strains are calculated and visualised using this new DIC technique for bias extension testing of an aerospace grade, carbon-fibre reinforcement material with a plain weave architecture. The DIC results are validated by direct measurement, and the use of a wide bias extension sample is evaluated against a more commonly used narrow sample. Wide samples exhibit a shear angle range 25% greater than narrow samples and peak loads which are 10 times higher. This is primarily due to excessive yarn slippage in the narrow samples; hence, the wide sample configuration is recommended for characterisation of shear properties which are required for accurate modelling of textile draping.

Bending effects on a textile microstrip antenna

This paper describes the design of a textile microstrip antenna for 2.4 GHz. Two different fabrics are used: one for the dielectric part and another one for the conductor part. The dielectric constant of the dielectric fabric is determined experimentally. The input matching is studied by electromagnetic simulation and experimentally. Since the antenna is meant to be incorporated in the user's clothe, the effect that the antenna bending has on the matching level is also investigated both theoretically and experimentally.

Effect of synthesis parameters on the electrical conductivity of polypyrrole-coated poly(ethylene terephthalate) fabrics

The effects of pyrrole, anthraquinone-2-sulphonic acid (AQSA) and iron(III) chloride (FeCl3) concentrations, reaction time and temperature on the electrical conductivity of polypyrrole (PPy) - coated poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET) fabrics were investigated. With an increase in both the AQSA and FeCl3 concentrations, resistivity decreased to a point beyond which higher concentrations led to increased surface resistivity. Erosion of the polymer coating, in dynamic synthesis from continual abrasion, manifested as an exponential increase in the resistance of the coated textile substrate. This was not encountered in static synthesis conditions. Temperature affected the degree of surface and bulk polymerisation. The effect of polymerisation temperature on conductivity was negligible. Conductive polymer coating on textiles through chemical polymerisation enabled a smooth coherent film to encase individual fibres, which did not affect the tactile properties of the host substrate. The optimum FeCl3/pyrrole and AQSA FeCl3/pyrrole molar ratios were found to be 2.22 and 0.40 respectively.