TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES IN CONCRETE ENVIRONMENTS."

Girli Concrete is a cross disciplinary funded research project based in the University of Ulster involving a textile designer/ researcher, an architect/ academic and a concrete manufacturing firm.
Girli Concrete brings together concrete and textile technologies, testing ideas of
concrete as textile and textile as structure. It challenges the perception of textiles as only the ‘dressing’ to structure and instead integrates textile technologies into the products of building products. Girli Concrete uses ‘low tech’ methods of wet and dry concrete casting in combination with ‘high tech’ textile methods using laser cutting, etching, flocking and digital printing. Whilst we have been inspired by recent print and imprint techniques in architectural cladding, Girli Concrete is generated within the depth of the concrete’s cement paste “skin”, bringing the trades and crafts of both industries together with innovative results.
Architecture and Textiles have an odd, somewhat unresolved relationship. Confined to a subservient role in architecture, textiles exist chiefly within the categories of soft furnishings and interior design. Girli Concrete aims to mainstream tactility in the production of built environment products, raising the human and environmental interface to the same specification level as the technical. This paper will chart:
The background and wider theoretical concerns to the project.
The development of Girli Concrete, highlighting the areas where craft becomes
art and art becomes science in the combination of textile and concrete
technologies.
The challenges of identifying funding to support such combination technologies,
working methods and philosophies.
The challenges of generating and sustaining practice within an academic
research environment
The outcomes to date

Implementation of a non-orthogonal model for the finite element simulation of textile composite draping

In the pursuit of producing high quality, low-cost composite aircraft structures, out-of-autoclave manufacturing processes for textile reinforcements are being simulated with increasing accuracy. This paper focuses on the continuum-based, finite element modelling of textile composites as they deform during the draping process. A non-orthogonal constitutive model tracks yarn orientations within a material subroutine developed for Abaqus/Explicit, resulting in the realistic determination of fabric shearing and material draw-in. Supplementary material characterisation was experimentally performed in order to define the tensile and non-linear shear behaviour accurately. The validity of the finite element model has been studied through comparison with similar research in the field and the experimental lay-up of carbon fibre textile reinforcement over a tool with double curvature geometry, showing good agreement.

Development and evaluation of a novel integrated anti-icing/de-icing technology for carbon fibre composite aerostructures using an electro-conductive textile

The preliminary evaluation is described of a new electro-thermal anti-icing/de-icing device for carbon fibre composite aerostructures. The heating element is an electro-conductive carbon-based textile (ECT) by Gorix. Electrical shorting between the structural carbon fibres and the ECT was mitigated by incorporating an insulating layer formed of glass fibre plies or a polymer film. A laboratory-based anti-icing and de-icing test program demonstrated that the film-insulated devices yielded better performance than the glssass fibre insulated ones. The heating capability after impact damage was maintained as long as the ECT fabric was not breached to the extent of causing electrical shorting. A modified structural scarf repair was shown to restore the heating capacity of a damaged specimen.

The importance of quality in the consolidation of textile in Minho

The textile industry has a long tradition in Portugal and it is one of the most important sectors, despite the current economic crisis. It has always assumed a prominent role in terms of employment and a relevant position within the Portuguese economy. The lack of quality and the lower prices that other countries offer causes the loss of clients. Quality is a main tool to survive nowadays in the textile sector. To undertake our analysis, we made use of an existing database where 55 firms belonged to the textile industry, namely to the manufacturing sector. A new survey was created based on the original survey and was sent to 5 firms. Besides the survey, we also sent a few questions to the firms in order to retract more information about the actually situation in our country, concerning the textile industry. Several tables, graphs and pie charts were made to help shed light on our findings. This research was conducted in order to determine the importance of quality in the consolidation of textile firms in the north of Portugal. Most firms in our sample feel that quality improvement, business benefits, mobilizing employees’ knowledge and business image were important and that competition is very intense and is mainly by price and not by differentiation of product or service. The quality program has contributed to improve their competitive position and the improvement of their overall performance. The majority of the firms in our sample undertake TQM measures for quality purposes to meet customer expectations and prevent errors. Of all firms surveyed, the quality is certainly very important for its survival.

Bending effects on a textile microstrip antenna

This paper describes the design of a textile microstrip antenna for 2.4 GHz. Two different fabrics are used: one for the dielectric part and another one for the conductor part. The dielectric constant of the dielectric fabric is determined experimentally. The input matching is studied by electromagnetic simulation and experimentally. Since the antenna is meant to be incorporated in the user's clothe, the effect that the antenna bending has on the matching level is also investigated both theoretically and experimentally.

International partner selection Indian technical textile market

Due to a combination of a vast agricultural industry and a tremendously growing technical textile industry, Ludvig Svensson identified India as target market for possible expansion through domestic production and supply. However, Svensson needed additional information about the industry structure and key players. Therefore, this project focused on a detailed analysis of the technical textile market and its players by following the international partner selection process. Thereby, five key players were identified as potential partners, as well as the need for additional research to determine alternative entry modes, as the market does not currently seem to be receptive for Svensson products.

The Discrimination of Colored Acrylic, Cotton, and Wool Textile Fibers Using Micro-Raman Spectroscopy. Part 1 : In Situ Detection and Characterization of Dyes

Raman spectroscopy has been applied to characterize fiber dyes and determine the discriminating ability of the method. Black, blue, and red acrylic, cotton, and wool samples were analyzed. Four excitation sources were used to obtain complementary responses in the case of fluorescent samples. Fibers that did not provide informative spectra using a given laser were usually detected using another wavelength. For any colored acrylic, the 633-nm laser did not provide Raman information. The 514-nm laser provided the highest discrimination for blue and black cotton, but half of the blue cottons produced noninformative spectra. The 830-nm laser exhibited the highest discrimination for red cotton. Both visible lasers provided the highest discrimination for black and blue wool, and NIR lasers produced remarkable separation for red and black wool. This study shows that the discriminating ability of Raman spectroscopy depends on the fiber type, color, and the laser wavelength.

Le role de la grappe industrielle quebecoise de la mode et du textile sur l'impact du libre-echange Canada-Etats-Unis-Mexique.

Rapport de recherche

Argentina’s Worker-Recovered Factories : strategies and survival

Les usines récupérées par les ouvriers en Argentine sont devenues un mouvement social emblématique symbolisant l'un des aspects de la révolte sociale entourant la crise économique de 2001-2002. Les usines récupérées sont des entreprises abandonnées par leurs propriétaires originaux ou déclarées faillite, laissant derrières elles des salaires et des dettes impayés. Par conséquence, les ouvriers ont commencé à récupérer leurs usines; reprenant la production sans leurs anciens patrons, sous, et au profit de la gestion collective des ouvriers. Le mouvement est remarquable pour sa rémunération égalitaire et sa gestion horizontale. Ce travail examine la continuité des usines récupérées et ceci à travers l'évolution sociale, politique et économique du paysage de l'Argentine. Il évalue également l'impact du mouvement en tant que défi aux modes économiques de production hégémoniques et orientés vers le marché. En supposant que l'avenir du mouvement dépend de deux ensembles de facteurs, le rapport analyse les facteurs internes à travers le prisme de la théorie de mobilisation des ressources, ainsi que les facteurs externes à travers la perspective de la théorie de la structure de l'opportunité politique. Le travail conclut que la situation actuelle se trouve dans une impasse dans laquelle le mouvement a gagné l'acceptation institutionnelle, mais a échoué d'effectuer le changement structurel favorisant ses pratiques et garantissant la sécurité à long terme. Il argumente que le mouvement doit consolider certains aspects combatifs. Il doit consolider sa nouvelle identité en tant que mouvement social et forger des alliances stratégiques et tactiques tout en préservant son autonomie.

Codes de conduite et droit d'association : une étude exploratoire du secteur du textile

Avec la globalisation de l’économie, l’entreprise traditionnelle est devenue un réseau global de producteurs liés par des contrats. À la suite de certains abus commis par les entreprises multinationales, notamment en ce qui concerne les droits fondamentaux des travailleurs, les entreprises et la société civile ont développé des mécanismes de régulation privés dont les codes de conduite privés. La présente étude cherche à déterminer quels pouvaient être les véritables destinataires des codes de conduite : les travailleurs du pays d’origine de l’entreprise (généralement situés dans un pays développé) ou les travailleurs des pays de production (généralement situés dans des pays en développement). À cette fin, le mémoire compare le contenu des codes de conduite de Nike, de Gap et de Levi-Strauss sur ce sujet avec les observations de l’Organisation internationale du travail pour les travailleurs des États-Unis, de l’Inde et du Bangladesh. Certains écarts entre les protections accordées par les codes et les besoins des travailleurs sont ainsi identifiés. Dans la dernière partie du mémoire, la question d’étude est élargie afin d’examiner si les codes ne seraient pas destinés à des personnes autres que les travailleurs, soient les consommateurs, les actionnaires ou l’entreprise elle-même.

Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth