Do our feelings leak through the clothes we wear?

There is a substantial body of literature that suggests that clothing and more particularly fashion is a form of communication. It communicates how we want to be seen by others as well as how we see ourselves. But does it communicate how we feel? This paper draws a link between symbolic and emotional communication by suggesting that fashion changes our internal feelings and that many of these emotions are expressed to others through symbols such as the clothes we wear. A conceptual framework is presented explaining the effects of clothing on an individual consumer. This framework classifies the fashion effect into internally and externally communicated meanings. Knowledge of how fashion is used as a form of emotional expression is particularly important for those fashion retailers who display the clothing they sell to engender positive feelings that may then lead to purchase behaviour.

White Moths

This collection navigates the process of grief after the speaker’s loss of both parents. The speaker struggles to connect with both the dead and the living through her physical intimacy and relationship with a troubled lover. These poems explore and exhume the speaker’s buried memories, moving from moments of wry humor to meaningful and sometimes painful discovery. Ultimately, these poems attempt to reach beyond the self, to transform loss and loneliness from a human condition into a musical tool of art for human connection.

Integrated visual perception architecture for robotic clothes perception and manipulation

This thesis proposes a generic visual perception architecture for robotic clothes perception and manipulation. This proposed architecture is fully integrated with a stereo vision system and a dual-arm robot and is able to perform a number of autonomous laundering tasks. Clothes perception and manipulation is a novel research topic in robotics and has experienced rapid development in recent years. Compared to the task of perceiving and manipulating rigid objects, clothes perception and manipulation poses a greater challenge. This can be attributed to two reasons: firstly, deformable clothing requires precise (high-acuity) visual perception and dexterous manipulation; secondly, as clothing approximates a non-rigid 2-manifold in 3-space, that can adopt a quasi-infinite configuration space, the potential variability in the appearance of clothing items makes them difficult to understand, identify uniquely, and interact with by machine. From an applications perspective, and as part of EU CloPeMa project, the integrated visual perception architecture refines a pre-existing clothing manipulation pipeline by completing pre-wash clothes (category) sorting (using single-shot or interactive perception for garment categorisation and manipulation) and post-wash dual-arm flattening. To the best of the author’s knowledge, as investigated in this thesis, the autonomous clothing perception and manipulation solutions presented here were first proposed and reported by the author. All of the reported robot demonstrations in this work follow a perception-manipulation method- ology where visual and tactile feedback (in the form of surface wrinkledness captured by the high accuracy depth sensor i.e. CloPeMa stereo head or the predictive confidence modelled by Gaussian Processing) serve as the halting criteria in the flattening and sorting tasks, respectively. From scientific perspective, the proposed visual perception architecture addresses the above challenges by parsing and grouping 3D clothing configurations hierarchically from low-level curvatures, through mid-level surface shape representations (providing topological descriptions and 3D texture representations), to high-level semantic structures and statistical descriptions. A range of visual features such as Shape Index, Surface Topologies Analysis and Local Binary Patterns have been adapted within this work to parse clothing surfaces and textures and several novel features have been devised, including B-Spline Patches with Locality-Constrained Linear coding, and Topology Spatial Distance to describe and quantify generic landmarks (wrinkles and folds). The essence of this proposed architecture comprises 3D generic surface parsing and interpretation, which is critical to underpinning a number of laundering tasks and has the potential to be extended to other rigid and non-rigid object perception and manipulation tasks. The experimental results presented in this thesis demonstrate that: firstly, the proposed grasp- ing approach achieves on-average 84.7% accuracy; secondly, the proposed flattening approach is able to flatten towels, t-shirts and pants (shorts) within 9 iterations on-average; thirdly, the proposed clothes recognition pipeline can recognise clothes categories from highly wrinkled configurations and advances the state-of-the-art by 36% in terms of classification accuracy, achieving an 83.2% true-positive classification rate when discriminating between five categories of clothes; finally the Gaussian Process based interactive perception approach exhibits a substantial improvement over single-shot perception. Accordingly, this thesis has advanced the state-of-the-art of robot clothes perception and manipulation.

As roupas esportivas em Revista na cidade de Belo Horizonte (1929-1950) : moldes, recortes e costuras

Universidade Estadual de Campinas. Faculdade de Educação Física

Proposição de um método de análise de movimentos de jogadores de tênis de campo a partir de vídeos televisivos = : Proposition of a method for tennis players motion analysis on broadcast videos

Universidade Estadual de Campinas . Faculdade de Educação Física

Tradução, adaptação transcultural e validação do "Body Image Avoidance Questionnaire (BIAQ)" e do "Body Checking Questionnaire (BCQ)" para lingua portuguesa no Brasil

Universidade Estadual de Campinas . Faculdade de Educação Física

Oviposition by a moth suppresses constitutive and herbivore-induced plant volatiles in maize

Plant volatiles function as important signals for herbivores, parasitoids, predators, and neighboring plants. Herbivore attack can dramatically increase plant volatile emissions in many species. However, plants do not only react to herbivore-inflicted damage, but also already start adjusting their metabolism upon egg deposition by insects. Several studies have found evidence that egg deposition itself can induce the release of volatiles, but little is known about the effects of oviposition on the volatiles released in response to subsequent herbivory. To study this we measured the effect of oviposition by Spodoptera frugiperda (J.E. Smith) (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae) moths on constitutive and herbivore-induced volatiles in maize (Zea mays L.). Results demonstrate that egg deposition reduces the constitutive emission of volatiles and suppresses the typical burst of inducible volatiles following mechanical damage and application of caterpillar regurgitant, a treatment that mimics herbivory. We discuss the possible mechanisms responsible for reducing the plant`s signaling capacity triggered by S. frugiperda oviposition and how suppression of volatile organic compounds can influence the interaction between the plant, the herbivore, and other organisms in its environment. Future studies should consider oviposition as a potential modulator of plant responses to insect herbivores.

Dress for Dissent: Reading the Almost Unreadable

The changing ways of clothing in Australia, which has communicated disaffection within the public sphere, is enquired. The relationship between clothes as protested in everyday public life, and those exceptional, socially disruptive clothes on view at specific protest gatherings, are also explored. It is shown that dissident dress in the 1980s demonstrated a greater degree of solidarity in its radical difference from mainstream dress of 2000s. It is suggested that building on reconceptualised notion of protest dressing as process not fixity, the relationship of dissident dress to the mainstream has become, for the most part, less dichotomous.

Burrundulla Garden Housing at Kambah, Canberra

View to rear of townhouses with enclosed garden, shed and clothes line.

Effects of egg load on the host-selection behaviour of Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner) (Lepidoptera : Noctuidae)

We examined the effect of age-specific fecundity, mated status, and egg load on host-plant selection, by Helicoverpa armigera under laboratory conditions. The physiological state of a female moth (number of mature eggs produced) greatly influences her host-plant specificity and propensity to oviposit (oviposition motivation). Female moths were less discriminating against cowpea (a low-ranked host) relative to maize (a high-ranked host) as egg load increased. Similarly, increased egg load led to a greater propensity to oviposit on both cowpea and maize. Distribution of oviposition with age of mated females peaked shortly after mating and declined steadily thereafter until death. Most mated females (88%) carried only a single spermatophore, a few females (12%) contained two. The significance of these findings in relation to host-plant selection by H. armigera, and its management, are discussed.

Interaction between Helicoverpa armigera and Colletotrichum gloeosporioides on the tropical pasture legume Stylosanthes scabra

Glasshouse experiments determined effects of a moth, Helicoverpa armigera (Lepidoptera: Noctuidae), and the anthracnose pathogen, Colletotrichum gloeosporioides (Penz.) Penz. and Sacc., on each other when attacking the same host plant, Stylosanthes scabra (Vog.) (Leguminosae) cv. Fitzroy. The host was treated with both organisms in 2 ways of succession and at 2 different life stages each. Larvae of the moth preferred to feed on healthy plants rather than plants recently infected with C. gloeosporioides, and preferred such newly infected plants to severely diseased ones. Adult female moths laid more eggs on healthy and recently infected plants than on diseased plants, when given a choice of all 3 plant types. Severity of anthracnose disease was neither promoted nor retarded by damage to leaves caused by larvae of the moth.

Role of chemical cues from cotton in mediating host selection and oviposition behaviour in Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner) (Lepidoptera : Noctuidae)

We investigated the role of chemoreception in the host selection and oviposition behaviour of Helicoverpa armigera in the laboratory using five cotton genotypes and synthetic volatile terpenes. Female moths oviposited on substrates treated with methanol, ethanol, acetone and pentane extracts of leaves, squares and flowers of the cotton genotypes. Phytochemicals soluble in pentane were the most efficient in eliciting oviposition behaviour. In a two-way bioassay, pentane extracts of leaves or squares of a Multiple Host-plant Resistance genotype (MHR11), Deltapine commercial (DP90), and Smith Red Leaf (SRL) received significantly more eggs than solvent-treated controls. Extracts of squares of the native genotype Gossypium nelsonii did not receive more eggs. Females preferred DP90 and MHR11 to SRL and G. nelsonii. Female moths also laid more eggs on pentane extracts of MHR11 flowers than MHR11 leaves from preflowering, early flowering and peak-flowering plants. In a flight chamber, female moths used olfactory cues at short range to mediate oviposition and discrimination between host plants. Egg-laying, mated females were attracted at a distance (1.5 m) to volatile compounds released by whole plants and odours emanating from filter papers treated with synthetic volatile terpenes. Individually, the terpenes did not stimulate any significant oviposition response. However, there was a significant oviposition response to a mixture of equal volumes of the terpenes (trans-beta-caryophyllene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, myrcene, beta-bisabolol, and alpha-humulene). Conversely, antennectomised (moths with transected antennae), egg-laying, mated females did not stimulate any significant oviposition response. The significance of these findings in relation to H. armigera hostplant selection are discussed.

Horizontal transmission of entomopathogenic fungi by the diamondback moth

The relative potential of the pathogenic fungi Beauveria bassiana and Zoophthora radicans for use as autodisseminated biological control agents of the diamondback moth (Plutella xylostella) was compared. The LC50 of B. bassiana conidia to third instar larvae was 499 conidia/mm(2) of leaf surface and individual cadavers of mycosed fourth instar larvae yielded a mean of 67.5 X 10(6) (+/- 7.5 x 10(6)) conidia. All concentrations of B. bassiana tested in inoculation chambers (0.24, 2.4, and 6.2 mug/mm(2)) induced 100% mortality in adult male moths within 7 days. The times to death and sporulation were concentration and exposure duration dependent. A standard procedure for inoculating male moths resulted in > 85% mortality from Z. radicans and > 93% mortality from B. bassiana. Pairing of inoculated males with clean moths of both sexes yielded higher rates of passive transmission of B. bassiana than Z. radicans, but there was no evidence for sexual transmission of either pathogen. Similarly, B. bassiana was more effectively transmitted from inoculated male moths to larvae foraging on whole plants. Single sporulating cadavers producing B. bassiana or Z. radicans conidia placed on plants infested with larvae resulted in a similar rate of transmission for both pathogens. However, an increase of the density of sporulating cadavers from one to three/plant increased Z. radicans transmission (greater than fourfold) but had no effect on B. bassiana transmission. Simultaneous inoculations of larvae with conidia of both fungi reduced the mortality induced by each pathogen, the reduction being most acute for B. bassiana-induced mortality. Inoculation of adults with both fungi showed that, at concentrations required for effective passive transmission to larvae, B. bassiana severely inhibited Z. radicans mycosis in adults. (C) 2001 Academic Press.

Relationship between oviposition preference and offspring performance in Australian Helicoverpa armigera (Hubner) (Lepidoptera : Noctuidae)

We investigated the oviposition preference and larval performance of Helicoverpa armigera under laboratory conditions to determine if the oviposition preference of individual females on maize, cowpea and cotton correlates with offspring performance on the leaves of the same host plants. The host-plant preference hierarchy of females did not correlate with their offspring performance. Female moths chose host plants that contributed less to their offspring fitness. Plant effects accounted for the largest amount of variation in offspring performance, while the effects of female (family) was low. The offspring of most females (80%, n = 10) were broadly similar, but 20% (two out of 10), showed marked difference in their offspring performance across the host-plant species. Similarly, there was no relation between larval feeding preference and performance. However, like most laboratory experiments, our experi-mental design does not allow the evaluation of ecological factors (for example, natural enemies, host abundance, etc.) that can play an important role in larval performance in the field. Overall, the results highlight the importance of carrying out preference performance analysis on the individual or family level, rather than pooling individuals to obtain average population data.

Further evidence for the agreement between patients with stroke and their proxies on the Frenchay Activities Index

Objective: To determine item, subscale and total score agreement on the Frenchay Activities Index (FAI) between stroke patients and proxies six months after discharge from rehabilitation. Design: Prospective study design. Setting/subjects: Fifty patient-proxy pairs, interviewed separately, in the patient's residence. Main outcome measures: Modified FAI using 13 items. Individual FAI items, subscales and total score agreement as measured by weighted kappa and intraclass correlation coefficients (ICC). Results: Excellent agreement was found for the total FAI (ICC 0.87, 95% confidence interval (CI) 0.78-0.93), and domestic (ICC 0.85, 95% CI 0.73-0.91) and outdoor (ICC 0.87, 95% CI 0.78-0.95) subscales, with moderate agreement found for the work/leisure subscale (ICC 0.63, 95% CI 0.34-0.78). For the individual FAI items, good, moderate, fair and poor agreement was found for five, three, four and one item, respectively. The best agreement was for objective items of preparing meals, washing-up, washing clothes, shopping and driving. The poorest agreement was for participation in hobbies, social outings and heavy housework. Scoring biases associated with patient or proxy demographic characteristics were found. Female proxies, and those who were spouses, scored patients lower on domestic activities; male patients, and those who were younger, scored themselves higher on outdoor activities and higher patient FIM scores were positively correlated with higher FAI scores. Conclusions: While total and subscale agreement on the FAI was high, individual item agreement varied. Proxy scores should be used with caution due to bias.