Creating fashion professionals for the 21st century : a tale of pedagogical tensions and emerging challenges

The ‘Fashion Tales’ Conference identifies three fashion discourses: that of making, that of media, and that of scholarship. We propose a fourth, which provides a foundational base for the others: the discourse of fashion pedagogy. We begin with the argument that to thrive in any of these discourses, all fashion graduates require the ability to navigate the complexities of the 21st century fashion industry. Fashion graduates emerge into a professional world which demands a range of high level capabilities above and beyond those traditionally acknowledged by the discipline. Professional education in fashion must transform itself to accommodate these imperatives. In this paper, we document a tale of fashion learning, teaching and scholarship – the tale of a highly successful future-orientated boutique university-based undergraduate fashion course in Queensland, Australia. The Discipline consistently maintains the highest student satisfaction and lowest attrition of any course in the university, achieves extremely competitive student satisfaction scores when compared with other courses nationally and internationally, and reports outstanding graduate employment outcomes. The core of the article addresses how the course effectively balances five key pedagogical tensions identified from the findings of in-depth focus groups with graduating students, and interviews with teaching staff. The pedagogical tensions are: high concept/ authenticity; high disciplinarity/ interdisciplinarity; high rigour/ play; high autonomy/ scaffolding; and high individuality/ community, where community can be further divided into high challenge and high support. We discuss each of these tensions and how they are characterised within the course, using rich descriptions given by the students. We also draw upon the wider andragogical and learning futures literatures to link the tensions with what is already known about excellence in 21st century higher and further education curriculum and pedagogic practice. We ask: as the fashion industry becomes truly globalised, virtualised, and diversified, and as initial professional training for the industry becomes increasingly massified and performatised, what are the best teaching approaches to produce autonomous, professionally capable, enterprising and responsible graduates into the future? Can the pedagogical balances described in this case study be maintained in the light of these powerful external forces, and if so, how?

Dry powder inhaler formulations : effect of carrier size on the drug dispersion

Background: The size of the carrier influences drug aerosolization from a dry powder inhaler (DPI) formulation. Lactose particles with irregular shape and rough surface in a variety of sizes are additionally used as carriers; however, contradictory reports exist regarding the effect of carrier size on the dispersion of drug. We examined the influence of the spherical particle size of the biodegradable polylactide-co-glycolide (PLGA) carrier on the aerosolization of a model drug, salbutamol sulphate (SS). Methods: Four different sizes (20-150 µm) of polymer carriers were fabricated using solvent evaporation technique and the dispersion of SS from these carriers was measured by a Twin Stage Impinger (TSI). The size and morphological properties of polymer carriers were determined by laser diffraction and SEM, respectively. Results: The FPF was found to increase from 5.6% to 21.3% with increasing carrier sizeup to150 µm. Conclusions: The aerosolization of drug increased linearly with the size of polymer carriers. For a fixed mass of drug particles in a formulation, the mass of drug particles per unit area of carriers is higher in formulations containing the larger carriers, which leads to an increase in the dispersion of drug due to the increased mechanical forces occurred between the carriers and the device walls.

Cutting on action : interference strategies in contemporary art practice

The domestication of creative software and hardware has been a significant factor in the recent proliferation of still and moving image creation. Booming numbers of amateur image-makers have the resources, skills and ambitions to create and distribute their work on a mass scale. At the same time, contemporary art seems increasingly dominated by ‘post-medium’ practices that adopt and adapt the representational techniques of mass culture, rather than overtly reject or oppose them. As a consequence of this network of forces, the field of image and video production is no longer the exclusive specialty of art and the mass media, and art may no longer be the most prominent watchdog of mass image culture. Intuitively and intentionally, contemporary artists are responding to these shifting conditions. From the position of a creative practitioner and researcher, this paper examines the strategies that contemporary artists use to engage with the changing relationships between image culture, lived experience and artistic practice. By examining the intersections between W.J.T. Mitchell’s detailed understanding of visual literacy and Jacques Derrida’s philosophical models of reading and writing, I identify ‘editing’ as a broad methodology that describes how practitioners creatively and critically engage with the field of still and moving images. My contention is that by emphasising the intersections of looking and making, ‘reading’ and ‘writing’, artists provide crucial jump cuts, pauses and distortions in the medley of our mediated experiences.

Wherefore art thou, inclusion? Analysing the development of inclusive education in New South Wales, Finland and Alberta

Over the last two decades, moves toward “inclusion” have prompted change in the formation of education policies, schooling structures and pedagogical practice. Yet, exclusion through the categorisation and segregation of students with diverse abilities has grown; particularly for students with challenging behaviour. This paper considers what has happened to inclusive education by focusing on three educational jurisdictions known to be experiencing different rates of growth in the identification of special educational needs: New South Wales (Australia), Alberta (Canada) and Finland (Europe). In our analysis, we consider the effects of competing policy forces that appear to thwart the development of inclusive schools in two of our case-study regions.

Heavy Weather

Heavy Weather was a monumental sculptural work produced for the prestigious McClelland National Sculpture Survey in 2012. The work was a large cold-cast aluminium figure depicting the artist in athletic costume arching backwards across the top of massive boulder. The pose of the figure was derived from the ‘Fosbury flop’, the awkward backwards manoeuvre associated with high-jump event. The boulder was a portrait of a different kind - a remake of the Ian Fairweather memorial on Bribie Island but elongated to tower upwards. The work thus emphasised two contrasting impressions of movement – immense inertia and writhing agility. Heavy Weather sought to bring these two opposing forces together as a way of representing the tensions that shape our relationship with objects. In so doing, the work contributed to the artist’s ongoing exploration of sculpture, self-portraiture and the civic monument. The work was promoted nationally including the Art Guide and the Melbourne Review. It was also the subject of a article in the Australian Art Collector.

Magnetic flux analysis in superconducting Fault Current Limiters under short-circuit conditions

In order to obtain a more compact Superconducting Fault Current limiter (SFCL), a special geometry of core and AC coil is required. This results in a unique magnetic flux pattern which differs from those associated with conventional round core arrangements. In this paper the magnetic flux density within a Fault Current Limiter (FCL) is described. Both experimental and analytical approaches are considered. A small scale prototype of an FCL was constructed in order to conduct the experiments. This prototype comprises a single phase. The analysis covers both the steady state and the short-circuit condition. Simulation results were obtained using commercial software based on the Finite Element Method (FEM). The magnetic flux saturating the cores, leakage magnetic flux giving rise to electromagnetic forces and leakage magnetic flux flowing in the enclosing tank are computed.

The ‘Russian doll’ approach : developing nested case-studies to support international comparative research in education

International comparison is complicated by the use of different terms, classification methods, policy frameworks and system structures, not to mention different languages and terminology. Multi-case studies can assist in the understanding of the influence wielded by cultural, social, economic, historical and political forces upon educational decisions, policy construction and changes over time. But case studies alone are not enough. In this paper, we argue for an ecological or scaled approach that travels through macro, meso and micro levels to build nested case-studies to allow for more comprehensive analysis of the external and internal factors that shape policy-making and education systems. Such an approach allows for deeper understanding of the relationship between globalizing trends and policy developments.

Power system stability enhancement in a deregulated environment using FACTS devices

In deregulated versions of free-market electricity, producers will be free to send power along other utilities. The price of power strongly depends and fluctuates according to mutual benefit index of both supplier and consumer. In such a situation, strong interaction among utilities may cause instabilities in the system. As the frequency of market-based dispatch increases market forces tend to destabilize the stable system dynamics depending on the value of Ks/τλ(market dependent parameter) ratio. This tends to destabilize the coupled dynamics. The implementation of TCSC can effectively damp the inter area modes of oscillations of the coupled market system.

Service condition of railroad corridors around the insulated rail joints

Railroad corridors contain large number of Insulated Rail Joints (IRJs) that act as safety critical elements in the circuitries of the signaling and broken rail identification systems. IRJs are regarded as sources of excitation for the passage of loaded wheels leading to high impact forces; these forces in turn cause dips, cross levels and twists to the railroad geometry in close proximity to the sections containing the IRJs in addition to the local damages to the railhead of the IRJs. Therefore, a systematic monitoring of the IRJs in railroad is prudent to mitigate potential risk of their sudden failure (e.g., broken tie plates) under the traffic. This paper presents a simple method of periodic recording of images using time-lapse photography and total station surveying measurements to understand the ongoing deterioration of the IRJs and their surroundings. Over a 500 day period, data were collected to examine the trends in narrowing of the joint gap due to plastic deformation the railhead edges and the dips, cross levels and twists caused to the railroad geometry due to the settlement of ties (sleepers) around the IRJs. The results reflect that the average progressive settlement beneath the IRJs is larger than that under the continuously welded rail, which leads to excessive deviation of railroad profile, cross levels and twists.

A variable stepsize implementation for stochastic differential equations

Stochastic differential equations (SDEs) arise from physical systems where the parameters describing the system can only be estimated or are subject to noise. Much work has been done recently on developing higher order Runge-Kutta methods for solving SDEs numerically. Fixed stepsize implementations of numerical methods have limitations when, for example, the SDE being solved is stiff as this forces the stepsize to be very small. This paper presents a completely general variable stepsize implementation of an embedded Runge Kutta pair for solving SDEs numerically; in this implementation, there is no restriction on the value used for the stepsize, and it is demonstrated that the integration remains on the correct Brownian path.

Regulating journalists? The Finkelstein Review, the Convergence Review, and News Media Regulation in Australia

This paper identifies two major forces driving change in media policy worldwide: media convergence, and renewed concerns about media ethics, with the latter seen in the U.K. Leveson Inquiry. It focuses on two major public inquiries in Australia during 2011-2012 – the Independent Media Inquiry (Finkelstein Review) and the Convergence Review – and the issues raised about future regulation of journalism and news standards. Drawing upon perspectives from media theory, it observes the strong influence of social responsibility theories of the media in the Finkelstein Review, and the adverse reaction these received from those arguing from Fourth Estate/free press perspectives, which were also consistent with the longstanding opposition of Australian newspaper proprietors to government regulation. It also discusses the approaches taken in the Convergence Review to regulating for news standards, in light of the complexities arising from media convergence. The paper concludes with consideration of the fast-changing environment in which such proposals to transform media regulation are being considered, including the crisis of news media organisation business models, as seen in Australia with major layoffs of journalists from the leading print media publications.

Factors affecting the stability analysis of earth dam slopes subjected to reservoir drawdown

The drawdown of reservoirs can significantly affect the stability of upstream slopes of earth dams. This is due to the removal of the balancing hydraulic forces acting on the dams and the undrained condition within the upstream slope soils. In such scenarios, the stability of the slopes can be influenced by a range of factors including drawdown rates, slope inclination and soil properties. This paper investigates the effects of drawdown rate, saturated hydraulic conductivity and unsaturated shear strength of dam materials on the stability of the upstream slope of an earth dam. In this study, the analysis of pore-water pressure changes within the upstream slope during reservoir drawdown was coupled with the slope stability analysis using the general limit equilibrium method. The results of the analysis suggested that a decrease in the reservoir water level caused the stability of the upstream slope to decrease. The dam embankment constructed with highly permeable soil was found to be more stable during drawdown scenarios, compared to others. Further, lower drawdown rates resulted in a higher safety factor for the upstream slope. Also, the safety factor of the slope calculated using saturated shear strength properties of the dam materials was slightly higher than that calculated using unsaturated shear strength properties. In general, for all the scenarios analysed, the lowest safety factor was found to be at the reservoir water level of about 2/3 of drawdown regime.

Impact of the internal business environment on knowledge management within construction organisations

Purpose: Recent knowledge management (KM) literature suggests that KM activities are influenced by the elements of the internal business environment (BE) of organisations. This paper attempts to provide some unique insights into the contextual input of the KM process through empirically identifying the major factors (i.e. “forces”) within the internal BE of construction organisations operating in Hong Kong, and investigating their impact on the intensity of KM activities. Design/methodology/approach: A questionnaire survey was administered to a sample of construction contractors operating in Hong Kong to elicit opinions on the internal BE and intensity of KM activities as executed by targeted organisations. A total of 149 usable responses were received from 99 organisations representing about 38 percent of the research population. In parallel, to the survey, a total of 15 semi-structured interviews were undertaken to provide more insights into the phenomenon under investigation. Findings: Supported by the empirical and qualitative evidence, this study established that firstly, both organisational and technical environments have the capacity to either positively or negatively impact the intensity of KM activities, and both environments serve as stimuli in increasing each other's dynamism; secondly, certain types of KM activities are stronger “energy receivers” and easily to be “powered up” by manipulating factors representing these two environments. Then, through interactions between KM activities, the intensity of the whole strategic KM cycle will be increased thus helping to strengthen organisational competitive advantage.

Perceptions of corporate social and environmental accounting and reporting practices from accountants in Bangladesh

Purpose – The aim of this study is to elicit accountants’ perceptions regarding corporate social and environmental accounting and reporting practices in a developing country such as Bangladesh. Design/methodology/approach – Members of the Institute of Chartered Accountants of Bangladesh (ICAB) were surveyed to determine their perceptions on issues pertaining to social and environmental accounting and reporting practices in Bangladesh. Findings – Whilst the findings show that accountants have positive attitudes toward corporate social and environmental accounting, progress is limited, with the absence of ICAB in making any noticeable effort to develop such practices. Research implications – Unlike prior studies, the implications of this study suggest that without international influence, it is less likely that institutional forces in Bangladesh (ICAB and the government) would be effective in dealing with social and environmental accounting and reporting issues. Originality/value – While prior studies advocate proactive roles of the accounting profession, this study argues that proactive roles are less likely to prevail in the context of Bangladesh without direct intervention from institutional and regulatory authorities in the international arena.

The doctrine of command responsibility in the midst of war : legal fallacy or reflection of reality

The history of war is blighted with astonishing reminders of man’s ability to cast his sense of humanity aside and inflict unspeakable harm upon one another. The ruthless bombing of Dresden, the callousness of the Nazi concentration camps and the massacre of the Tutsis are but a few of the atrocities that have haunted our past. In response to these atrocities, society has imposed an ever-increasing number of laws and rules to regulate warfare. Amongst these is the doctrine of command responsibility. The doctrine of command responsibility states that a commander is criminally liable for the crimes of his subordinates if he knew or should have known of their crimes. This paper will examine whether the doctrine is an appropriate and realistic legal standard to hold commanders accountable to or whether the doctrine is more a reflection of social sentiment and legal rhetoric. If the doctrine, and indeed the law of war in general, is unrealistic then the law cannot fulfil its purpose - that is, the prevention of atrocities. Instead of being solely a reflection of moral authority and social sentiments the law must also be a tool that guides and shapes the decisions and actions of the military through the chaotic and brutal nature of war...