Conceptual fashion : design, practice and process

While Conceptual fashion design practices have been a pervasive influence in fashion since the early 1980s, there is little academic analysis that might explain how they are distinct from conventional fashion design practices. In addition, fashion practitioners have not historically contributed to fashion research. As a result, contemporary fashion practitioners have difficulty setting critical contexts and expanding their creative work as there is little relevant literature available from practitioner perspectives. This project uses practice-led research to develop a discourse for understanding Conceptual fashion design process and how it relates to more conventional fashion design practices. In this exegesis I use Conceptual art as a lens to expand understandings of Conceptual fashion and my own creative practice. This analysis demonstrates that there are valuable connections to be drawn between Conceptual art and Conceptual fashion practice. In particular, these connections reveal the differences between the way Conceptual and more conventional fashion designers relate to the conceptual and the visual in their design process. This exploration demonstrates that while fashion is a visual field, Conceptual fashion designers produce a more ‘intellectual’ type of fashion that uses the visual to communicate ideas that question the nature of fashion. I explore the relevance of these ideas through application and experimentation in my creative practice projects by drawing from systems and rules identified in the work of early Conceptual artists and contemporary Conceptual fashion designers.

From strategic design to design integration

Within a growing awareness of design as central to the strategic success and the sustained competitive advantage of firms, this paper examines how companies pursue design driven innovation (Verganti, 2008, 2009) and respond to design led innovation initiatives (Matthews & Bucolo 2013). Specifically, this paper reports the findings of a collaborative research project where CEO sponsored senior managers from five multi-national organisations, met regularly over a twelve-month period, to discuss their progress on applying a design led approach in their firms. This longitudinal research project traced the process and progress of change instigated by the senior management representatives, as well as the deeper investigation of the barriers and challenges to re-frame design more strategically in their organisation. Data were collected through workshops and interviews throughout the twelve-month period, regarding the firms’ journeys and also the barriers and challenges firms faced in order to become design led. The findings present a novel set of implications for both designers and management scholars. This paper seeks to contribute to research and practice by investigating the processes and outcomes of a design led innovation program and to propose implications for practice for designers and management.

Pedagogy and community engagement in environmental design courses

This article describes an evaluation of student experiences in environmental design courses with a community engagement focus. It aims to identify pedagogical approaches that minimize obstacles faced by students while maximizing learning opportunities. Focus groups composed of undergraduate students in seven classes generated three major findings: (1) learning how to effectively engage with community partners is one of the most beneficial challenges of this type of course; (2) logistical hurdles and course characteristics that limited students’ ability to connect with the community partners or synthesize the social, emotional, technical, and theoretical aspects of the course were perceived as learning obstacles; and (3) social and emotional connections with community partners are the most educationally significant part of the experience for students. The conclusion discusses recommendations for how environmental design instructors can take advantage of the unique social and emotional connections with community partners that facilitated community engagement can foster, while limiting the learning obstacles that students may experience. Areas for future research

Design LED innovation to rejuvenate local food systems and healthy communities : an emerging research agenda

Food Sovereignty (food freedom) is about empowering people to develop their own local food system. Food Sovereignty challenges designers to enable people to innovate the local food system, rather than having a food system which is dictated by corporate interests and failed business ethics. Communities are realising the potential for design to assist in the innovation process, and add strategic value to potentially localise the food system. Design Led Innovation (DLI) offers a strategic framework to address large-scale cultural, systemic and economic changes. The DLI approach empowers communities to take organised action to achieve a healthy, prosperous and happy way of life. DLI can assist with business models in the business world and it is evident this approach can assist with creating social change too. This paper presents on an emerging research agenda aimed to assist designer’s focus from individuals and systems to communities and urban problems. This paper also presents the research proposition that DLI and service design coupled with social entrepreneurial ventures such as local food projects and creative community inventions, have the potential to enable social innovation for healthy and happy communities.

Selecting rainfall events for effective Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD) implementation

The current approach for protecting the receiving water environment from urban stormwater pollution is the adoption of structural measures commonly referred to as Water Sensitive Urban Design (WSUD). The treatment efficiency of WSUD measures closely depends on the design of the specific treatment units. As stormwater quality can be influenced by rainfall characteristics, the selection of appropriate rainfall events for treatment design is essential to ensure the effectiveness of WSUD systems. Based on extensive field investigation of four urban residential catchments and computer modelling, this paper details a technically robust approach for the selection of rainfall events for stormwater treatment design using a three-component model. The modelling outcomes indicate that selecting smaller average recurrence interval (ARI) events with high intensity-short duration as the threshold for the treatment system design is the most feasible since these events cumulatively generate a major portion of the annual pollutant load compared to the other types of rainfall events, despite producing a relatively smaller runoff volume. This implies that designs based on small and more frequent rainfall events rather than larger rainfall events would be appropriate in the context of efficiency in treatment performance, cost-effectiveness and possible savings in land area needed.

Teaching design thinking and design led innovation to non-designers : a tertiary facilitator multidisciplinary study

This paper aims to address the knowledge gap in regards to the potential intermediary role tertiary institutions can play in developing generic design thinking/design led innovation capabilities in non-designers. Specifically, it investigates the value derived from the contribution of postgraduate design students as facilitators/educators for undergraduate non-design student cohorts. It examines a design immersion workshop designed to encourage the use of design thinking capabilities for project brief development for undergraduate multi-disciplinary student teams involved in a community service learning project for a social enterprise. The workshop was facilitated by design led innovation masters students embedded in industry organisations to research the integration of design led innovation capabilities in business. Data was collected from participating non-design students and postgraduate facilitators’ in the form of reflective journals and semi-structured interviews. The thematic analysis provided insight into the value of design thinking/design led innovation immersion programs for both the postgraduate facilitators and the undergraduate non-design students. The research results will inform a tentative foundation prototype framework to allow for ongoing program developments and research in design thinking/design led innovation integration in higher education, facilitating the development of generic capabilities required to empower future generations for business innovation and active citizenship in the 21st century knowledge economy.

Design of a gust-attenuation controller for landing operations of Unmanned Autonomous Helicopters

This paper presents an innovative and practical approach to controlling heave motion in the presence of acute stochastic atmospheric disturbances during landing operations of an Unmanned Autonomous Helicopter (UAH). A heave motion model of an UAH is constructed for the purpose of capturing dynamic variations of thrust due to horizontal wind gusts. Additionally, through construction of an effective observer to estimate magnitudes of random gusts, a promising and feasible feedback-feedforward PD controller is developed, based on available measurements from onboard equipment. The controller dynamically and synchronously compensates for aerodynamic variations of heave motion resulting from gust influence, to increase the disturbance-attenuation ability of the UAH in a windy environment. Simulation results justify the reliability and efficiency of the suggested gust observer to estimate gust levels when applied to the heave motion model of a small unmanned helicopter, and verify suitability of the recommended control strategy to realistic environmental conditions.

Natural and engineered plasmin inhibitors : applications and design strategies

Plasmin is the primary enzyme responsible for dissolution of fibrin in the circulatory system. Plasminogen, the zymogen of plasmin is expressed ubiquitously in the human body [1], with the predominant source being the liver [2, 3]. Plasminogen is produced as an 810 amino acid protein with a 19 amino acid leader peptide, which is cleaved during secretion to produce the mature 791 amino acid one-chain zymogen. This is converted to plasmin by cleavage of the Arg561 - Val562 scissile bond [4], resulting in an active protease consisting of two disulfide linked chains. The amino-terminal heavy chain (residues Glu1-Arg561) is comprised of a plasminogen/apple/nematode (PAN) domain [5] and five kringle domains of approximately equal size [6] while the light chain (residues Val562-Asn791) contains a serine protease domain homologous to trypsin with a catalytic triad comprising His603, Asp646 and Ser741 [7]. Both plasmin and plasminogen occur in two forms, full length and a Lys77-Lys78 activated variant produced through self catalysis (Figure 1). The former exists in a tight conformation through binding of Lys50 and/or Lys62 to kringle domain 5 [8, 9] while Lys78-plasminogen assumes a more relaxed conformation rendering it more susceptible to plasmin conversion [10, 11].

Early challenges of shifting an Australian manufacturer’s utilisation of design

This paper presents the findings from the initial exploration phase of an 11 month project, identifying the early challenges that a design innovation catalyst faces while initiating a shift in the way a medium sized manufacturing firm utilises design. Ultimately, the overarching aims of the project are to transform the utilisation of design within the participating company from a styling tool to a strategic process through the implementation of a design led approach to innovation. Insights were found through qualitative interviews with company staff and reflective journal entries as part of an Action Research methodology. Challenges identified include managing expectations, conveying the potential of a design innovation catalyst and a design led approach to innovation, and a siloed and risk averse culture. Findings presented in this paper will assist in identifying and understanding the preliminary challenges encountered by a design innovation catalyst when embarking on a design led transformation. Future innovation catalysts can prepare for possible barriers by highlighting considerations, opportunities and challenges when embarking on a design led transformation. Implications of this research are provided as possible approaches to overcoming these challenges.

From production to purpose : using design led innovation to Build Strategic Potential in a Family-Owned SME

There is an evident need to develop the strategic capabilities of companies from within, to ensure competitive competence in a time where strategy is a necessity. This paper is based on the first 4 months of a longitudinal embedded case study of a family-owned Australian small to medium enterprise, in their journey towards design integration. The first author was embedded as a ‘Design Innovation Catalyst’ to collaborate on overcoming early barriers of strategic development, using design led innovation. Action research methodology, semi-structured interviews with seven out of eight employees and a reflective journal revealed the absence of a shared vision, conflicting drivers and a focus on operational efficiency rather than strategy. Through the Catalyst’s facilitation, a company vision, general awareness, practice and knowledge in strategic development have emerged as the first steps to generating strategic design competence within the firm.

The challenges of adopting design-led innovative strategies in not for profits : the role of consumers, culture and employees

Major changes to regulations, funding and consumer demand in the Australian aged care industry are driving not for profits in this sector to reshape and rethink the services they offer and the ways in which they deliver their services to consumers. Many not for profit organisations facing these new challenges are also facing organisational cultural barriers in the development and implementation of innovative strategies. This paper presents a case study where one organisation, using design led innovation, explored consumer insights and employee values to find new ways to facilitate change.

Design led innovation : shifting from smart follower to digital strategy leader in the Australian airport sector

This paper presents and discusses organisational barriers and opportunities arising from the dissemination of design led innovation within a leading Australian airport corporation. This research is part of a greater action research program which aims to integrate design as a strategic capability through design led innovation within Australian businesses. Findings reveal that there is an opportunity to employ the theoretical framework and tools of design led innovation in practice to build collaborative idea generation by involving customers and stakeholders within the proposal of new to world propositions. The iterative gathering of deep customer insights also provided an opportunity to leverage a greater understanding of stakeholders and customers in strengthening continuing business partnerships through co-design. Challenges to the design led approach include resistance to the exploratory nature of gathering deep customer insights, the testing of long held assumptions and market data, and the disruption of an organisational mindset geared toward risk aversion instilled within the aviation industry. The implication from these findings is that design led innovation can provide the critical platform to allow for a business to grow and sustain internal design capabilities necessary to challenge prevailing assumptions about how its business model operates to deliver value to customers and stakeholders alike. The platform of design led innovation also provides an avenue to support a cultural transformation towards anticipating future needs necessary for establishing a position of leadership within the broader economic environment.

Unpacking the opportunities for change within a family owned manufacturing sme : a design led innovation case study

This thesis explored how an Australian, family owned, manufacturing firm responded to a design led innovation approach as conducted by the action researcher. Specifically, it investigated the barriers and opportunities that arose within the firm when trying to affect change to drive innovation. In doing so, key opportunities were identified that could help the firm to integrate a design led approach and remain competitive within an increasingly accessible global marketplace.

Photovoltaic DC-DC module integrated converter for novel cascaded and bypass grid connection topologies - design and optimisation

Grid connected photovoltaic (PV) inverters fall into three broad categories - central, string and module integrated converters (MICs). MICs offer many advantages in performance and flexibility, but are at a cost disadvantage. Two alternative novel approaches proposed by the author - cascaded dc-dc MICs and bypass dc-dc MICs - integrate a simple non-isolated intelligent dc-dc converter with each PV module to provide the advantages of dc-ac MICs at a lower cost. A suitable universal 150 W 5 A dc-dc converter design is presented based on two interleaved MOSFET half bridges. Testing shows zero voltage switching (ZVS) keeps losses under 1 W for bi-directional power flows up to 15 W between two adjacent 12 V PV modules for the bypass application, and efficiencies over 94% for most of the operational power range for the cascaded converter application. Based on the experimental results, potential optimizations to further reduce losses are discussed.

Vehicle energy throughput analysis as a drivetrain motor design aid

There are many variables to consider in the design of an electric motor. However, meeting the performance requirements for an electric vehicle drive may cause a designer to loose focus on its typical operation and hence fail to optimise the motor in the region where it processes the most power. This paper investigates operating requirements of electric vehicle motor drives using the University concept vehicle as an example. The paper outlines a methodology for determining primary operating region of a vehicle drive. The methodology is applied to standard driving cycles that are commonly used in the design and testing of vehicles.