Copper-containing mesoporous bioactive glass scaffolds with multifunctional properties of angiogenesis capacity, osteostimulation and antibacterial activity

It is of great importance to develop multifunctional bioactive scaffolds, which combine angiogenesis capacity, osteostimulation, and antibacterial properties for regenerating lost bone tissues. In order to achieve this aim, we prepared copper (Cu)-containing mesoporous bioactive glass (Cu-MBG) scaffolds with interconnective large pores (several hundred micrometer) and well-ordered mesopore channels (around 5 nm). Both Cu-MBG scaffolds and their ionic extracts could stimulate hypoxia-inducible factor (HIF)-1a and vascular endothelial growth factor(VEGF) expression in human bone marrow stromal cells(hBMSCs). In addition, both Cu-MBG scaffolds and their ionic extracts significantly promoted the osteogenic differentiation of hBMSCs by improving their bone-related gene expression (alkaline phosphatase (ALP), osteopontin(OPN) and osteocalcin (OCN)). Furthermore, Cu-MBG scaffolds could maintain a sustained release of ibuprofen and significantly inhibited the viability of bacteria. This study indicates that the incorporation of Cu2þ ions into MBG scaffolds significantly enhances hypoxia-like tissue reaction leading to the coupling of angiogenesis and osteogenesis. Cu2þ ions play an important role to offer the multifunctional properties of MBG scaffold system. This study has demonstrated that it is possible to develop multifunctional scaffolds by combining enhanced angiogenesis potential, osteostimulation, and antibacterial properties for the treatment of large bone defects.

Evaluation of methods for cultivating limbal mesenchymal stromal cells

Background: Mesenchymal stromal cells (MSC) with similar properties to bone marrow derived mesenchymal stromal cells (BM-MSC) have recently been grown from the limbus of the human cornea. We presently contribute to this novel area of research by evaluating methods for culturing human limbal MSC (L-MSC). Methods: Four basic strategies are compared: serum-supplemented medium (10% foetal bovine serum; FBS), standard serum-free medium supplemented with B-27, epidermal growth factor, and fibroblast growth factor 2, or one of two commercial serum-free media including Defined Keratinocyte Serum Free Medium (Invitrogen), and MesenCult-XF (Stem Cell Technologies). The phenotype of resulting cultures was examined using photography, flow cytometry (for CD34, CD45, CD73, CD90, CD105, CD141, CD271), immunocytochemistry (α-sma), differentiation assays (osteogenesis, adipogenesis, chrondrogenesis), and co-culture experiments with human limbal epithelial (HLE) cells. Results: While all techniques supported to varying degrees establishment of cultures, sustained growth and serial propagation was only achieved in 10% FBS medium or MesenCult-XF medium. Cultures established in 10% FBS medium were 70-80% CD34-/CD45-/CD90+/CD73+/CD105+, approximately 25% α-sma+, and displayed multi-potency. Cultures established in MesenCult-XF were >95% CD34-/CD45-/CD90+/CD73+/CD105+, 40% CD141+, rarely expressed α-sma, and displayed multi-potency. L-MSC supported growth of HLE cells, with the largest epithelial islands being observed in the presence of MesenCult-XF-grown L-MSC. All HLE cultures supported by L-MSC widely expressed the progenitor cell marker ∆Np63, along with the corneal differentiation marker cytokeratin 3. Conclusions: We conclude that MesenCult-XF® is a superior culture system for L-MSC, but further studies are required to explore the significance of CD141 expression in these cells.

Differential expression and distribution of syndecan-1 and -2 in periodontal wound healing of the rat

Cell-surface proteoglycans participate in several biological functions including interactions with adhesion molecules, growth factors and a variety of other effector molecules. Accordingly, these molecules play a central role in various aspects of cell–cell and cell–matrix interactions. To investigate the expression and distribution of the cell surface proteoglycans, syndecan-1 and -2, during periodontal wound healing, immunohistochemical analyses were carried out using monoclonal antibodies against syndecan-1, or -2 core proteins. Both syndecan-1 and -2 were expressed and distributed differentially at various stages of early inflammatory cell infiltration, granulation tissue formation, and tissue remodeling in periodontal wound healing. Expression of syndecan-1 was noted in inflammatory cells within and around the fibrin clots during the earliest stages of inflammatory cell infiltration. During granulation tissue formation it was noted in fibroblast-like cells and newly formed blood vessels. Syndecan-1 was not seen in newly formed bone or cementum matrix at any of the time periods studied. Syndecan-1 expression was generally less during the late stages of wound healing but was markedly expressed in cells that were close to the repairing junctional epithelium. In contrast, syndecan-2 expression and distribution was not evident at the early stages of inflammatory cell infiltration. During the formation of granulation tissue and subsequent tissue remodeling, syndecan-2 was expressed extracellularly in the newly formed fibrils which were oriented toward the root surface. Syndecan-2 was found to be significantly expressed on cells that were close to the root surface and within the matrix of repaired cementum covering root dentin as well as at the alveolar bone edge. These findings indicate that syndecan-1 and -2 may have distinctive functions during wound healing of the periodontium. The appearance of syndecan-1 may involve both cell–cell and cell–matrix interactions, while syndecan-2 showed a predilection to associate with cell–matrix interactions during hard tissue formation.

Studies of assisted reproduction in the spotted grass frog Limnodynastes tasmaniensis: ovulation, early development and microinjection (ICSI)

Assisted Reproductive Technologies (ART) offer a wide range of techniques that have the potential to augment efforts to conserve and manage endangered amphibians and improve wild and captive population numbers. Gametes and tissues of species nearing endangered or extinct status can be cryopreserved and stored in gene banks, to provide material that can be utilised in the future as ART methods are refined. The Spotted Grass Frog, Limnodynastes tasmaniensis, is an abundant amphibian species in South-Eastern Australia of the family Myobatrachidae, that is suitable for the development of ART systems that can be applied to the threatened and endangered myobatrachid and other amphibian species native to Australia. The aim of this study was to advance the understanding of ovulation, fertilisation and embryo nic development of Lim. tasmaniensis and in vitro manipulations of reproduction and development for use in the development of advanced ART procedures such as intracytoplasmic spermatozoon injection (ICSI), androgenesis and nuclear transfer. Ovulation in amphibians can be induced by protocols utilising natural or synthetic hormones. All protocols tested on Lim. tasmaniensis in this study required two injections and the most effective protocols continued to require a first injection of pituitary extracts to induce ovulation. The second injection was, however, successfully replaced by synthetic chorionic gonadotrophin at a threshold dosage of 100 iu and halved the number of cane toads required to source the pituitaries. A combination of LHRH and Pimozide offered a less effective protocol, that did not require the use of pituitary extracts, and avoided the risk of pathogen transfer associated with unsterilised pituitary extracts. Unfertilised eggs of Lim. tasmaniensis were exposed to media of various osmolalities to determine media effects on eggs and their surrounding jelly layers that might impact on egg viability and fertilisability. Osmolality had no effect upon the egg diameter, however, rapid swelling of the jelly layers occurred within 15 minutes of exposure to various media treatments and plateaued from 30-90 minutes without further expansion. Swelling of the jelly layers was increased in hypotonic media (2.5% SAR, H2O) and minimised in the isotonic media (100% SAR). The optimal conditions for the culture of Lim. tasmaniensis eggs were identified as a holding media of 100% SAR, followed by a medium change to 2.5% SAR at insemination. This sequence of media minimised the rate of swelling of the jelly layers prior to contact with the spermatozoa, and maximised the activation of spermatozoa and eggs throughout fertilisation and embryonic development. Embryos of Lim. tasmaniensis were cultured at four temperatures (13 C, 17 C, 23 C and 29 C), to determine the effect of temperature on cleavage and embryonic development rates. Embryonic development progressed through a sequence of stages that were not altered by changes in temperature. However cleavage rates were affected by changes in temperature as compared with normal embryonic growth at 23 C. Embryonic development was suspended at the lowest temperature (13 C) while embryonic viability was maintained. A moderate decrease in temperature (17 C) slowed cleavage, while the highest temperature (29 C) increased the cleavage rate, but decreased the embryo survival. Rates of embryonic development can be manipulated by changes in temperature and this method can be used to source blastomeres of a specific size/stage at a predetermined age or halt cleavage at specific stages for embryos or embryo derived cells to be included in ART procedures. This study produced the first report of the application of Intracytoplasmic Spermatozoon Injection (ICSI) in an Australian amphibian. Eggs that were activated by microinjection with a single spermatozoon (n=50) formed more deep, but abnormal, cleavage furrows post-injection (18/50, 36%), than surface changes (12/50, 24%). This result is in contrast to eggs injected without a spermatozoon (n=42), where the majority of eggs displayed limited surface changes (36/42, 86%), and few deep, abnormal furrows (3/42, 7%). Three advanced embryos (3/50, 6%) were produced by ICSI that developed to various stages within the culture system. Technical difficulties were encountered that prevented the generation of any metamorphs from ICSI tadpoles. Nevertheless, when these blocks to ICSI are overcome, the ICSI procedure will be both directly useful as an ART procedure in its own right, and the associated refinement of micromanipulation procedures will assist in the development of other ART procedures in Lim. tasmaniensis. A greater understanding of basic reproductive and developmental biology in Lim. tasmaniensis would greatly facilitate refinement of fertilisation by ICSI. Assisted Reproductive Technologies, in conjunction with gene banks may in the future regenerate extinct amphibian species, and assist in the recovery of declining amphibian populations nationally and worldwide.

In the bank or on the ground : an examination of financial reserves in Australian international aid organisations

This study contributes to the understanding of the contribution of financial reserves to sustaining nonprofit organisations. Recognising the limited recent Australian research in the area of nonprofit financial vulnerability, it specifically examines financial reserves held by signatories to the Code of Conduct of the Australian Council for International Development (ACFID) for the years 2006 to 2010. As this period includes the Global Financial Crisis, it presents a unique opportunity to observe the role of savings in a period of heightened financial threats to sustainability. The need for nonprofit entities to maintain reserves, while appearing intuitively evident, is neither unanimously accepted nor supported by established theoretic constructs. Some early frameworks attempt to explain the savings behaviour of nonprofit organisations and its role in organisational sustainability. Where researchers have considered the issue, its treatment has usually been either purely descriptive or alternatively, peripheral to a broader attempt to predict financial vulnerability. Given the importance of nonprofit entities to civil society, the sustainability of these organisations during times of economic contraction, such as the recent Global Financial Crisis, is a significant issue. Widespread failure of nonprofits, or even the perception of failure, will directly affect, not only those individuals who access their public goods and services, but would also have impacts on public confidence in both government and the sectors’ ability to manage and achieve their purpose. This study attempts to ‘shine a light’ on the paradox inherent in considering nonprofit savings. On the one hand, a public prevailing view is that nonprofit organisations should not hoard and indeed, should spend all of their funds on the direct achievement of their purposes. Against this, is the commonsense need for a financial buffer if only to allow for the day to day contingencies of pay rises and cost increases. At the entity level, the extent of reserves accumulated (or not) is an important consideration for Management Boards. The general public are also interested in knowing the level of funds held by nonprofits as a measure of both their commitment to purpose and as an indicator of their effectiveness. There is a need to communicate the level and prevalence of reserve holdings, balancing the prudent hedging of uncertainty against a sense of resource hoarding in the mind of donors. Finally, funders (especially governments) are interested in knowing the appropriate level of reserves to facilitate the ongoing sustainability of the sector. This is particularly so where organisations are involved in the provision of essential public goods and services. At a scholarly level, the study seeks to provide a rationale for this behaviour within the context of appropriate theory. At a practical level, the study seeks to give an indication of the drivers for savings, the actual levels of reserves held within the sector studied, as well as an indication as to whether the presence of reserves did mitigate the effects of financial turmoil during the Global Financial Crisis. The argument is not whether there is a need to ensure sustainability of nonprofits, but rather how it is to be done and whether the holding of reserves (net assets) is an essential element is achieving this. While the study offers no simple answers, it does appear that the organisations studied present as two groups, the ‘savers’ who build reserves and keep ‘money in the bank’ and ‘spender-delivers’ who put their resources ‘on the ground’. To progress an understanding of this dichotomy, the study suggests a need to move from its current approach to one which needs to more closely explore accounts based empirical donor attitude and nonprofit Management Board strategy.

Re-made in Asia : transformation across Asian markets and popular culture

The thesis is an examination of how Japanese popular culture products are remade (rimeiku). Adaptation of manga, anime and television drama, from one format to another, frequently occurs within Japan. The rights to these stories and texts are traded in South Korea and Taiwan. The ‘spin-off’ products form part of the Japanese content industry. When products are distributed and remade across geographical boundaries, they have a multi-dimensional aspect and potentially contribute to an evolving cultural re-engagement between Japan and East Asia. The case studies are the television dramas Akai Giwaku and Winter Sonata and two manga, Hana yori Dango and Janguru Taitei. Except for the television drama Winter Sonata these texts originated in Japan. Each study shows how remaking occurs across geographical borders. The study argues that Japan has been slow to recognise the value of its popular culture through regional and international media trade. Japan is now taking steps to remedy this strategic shortfall to enable the long-term viability of the Japanese content industry. The study includes an examination of how remaking raises legal issues in the appropriation of media content. Unauthorised copying and piracy contributes to loss of financial value. To place the three Japanese cultural products into a historical context, the thesis includes an overview of Japanese copying culture from its early origins through to the present day. The thesis also discusses the Meiji restoration and the post-World War II restructuring that resulted in Japan becoming a regional media powerhouse. The localisation of Japanese media content in South Korea and Taiwan also brings with it significant cultural influences, which may be regarded as contributing to a better understanding of East Asian society in line with the idea of regional ‘harmony’. The study argues that the commercial success of Japanese products beyond Japan is governed by perceptions of the quality of the story and by the cultural frames of the target audience. The thesis draws on audience research to illustrate the loss or reinforcement of national identity as a consequence of cross-cultural trade. The thesis also examines the contribution to Japanese ‘soft power’ (Nye, 2004, p. x). The study concludes with recommendations for the sustainability of the Japanese media industry.

Biochemical profiling of proteins and metabolites in wound exudate from chronic wound environments

The lack of fundamental knowledge on the biological processes associated with wound healing represents a significant challenge. Understanding the biochemical changes that occur within a chronic wound could provide insights into the wound environment and enable more effective wound management. We report on the stability of wound fluid samples under various conditions and describe a high-throughput approach to investigate the altered biochemical state within wound samples collected from various types of chronic, ulcerated wounds. Furthermore, we discuss the viability of this approach in the early stages of wound sample protein and metabolite profiling and subsequent biomarker discovery. This approach will facilitate the detection of factors that may correlate with wound severity and/or could be used to monitor the response to a particular treatment.

Viable chimaeric viruses confirm the biological importance of sequence specific maize streak virus movement protein and coat protein interactions

Background. A variety of interactions between up to three different movement proteins (MPs), the coat protein (CP) and genomic DNA mediate the inter- and intra-cellular movement of geminiviruses in the genus Begomovirus. Although movement of viruses in the genus Mastrevirus is less well characterized, direct interactions between a single MP and the CP of these viruses is also clearly involved in both intra- and intercellular trafficking of virus genomic DNA. However, it is currently unknown how specific these MP-CP interactions are, nor how disruption of these interactions might impact on virus viability. Results. Using chimaeric genomes of two strains of Maize streak virus (MSV) we adopted a genetic approach to investigate the gross biological effects of interfering with interactions between virus MP and CP homologues derived from genetically distinct MSV isolates. MP and CP genes were reciprocally exchanged, individually and in pairs, between maize (MSV-Kom)- and Setaria sp. (MSV-Set)-adapted isolates sharing 78% genome-wide sequence identity. All chimaeras were infectious in Zea mays c.v. Jubilee and were characterized in terms of symptomatology and infection efficiency. Compared with their parental viruses, all the chimaeras were attenuated in symptom severity, infection efficiency, and the rate at which symptoms appeared. The exchange of individual MP and CP genes resulted in lower infection efficiency and reduced symptom severity in comparison with exchanges of matched MP-CP pairs. Conclusion. Specific interactions between the mastrevirus MP and CP genes themselves and/or their expression products are important determinants of infection efficiency, rate of symptom development and symptom severity. © 2008 van der Walt et al; licensee BioMed Central Ltd.

Comparative effects of posterior eye cup tissues from Myopic and Hyperopic chick eyes on cultured scleral fibroblasts

The role of individual ocular tissues in mediating changes to the sclera during myopia development is unclear. The aim of this study was to examine the effects of retina, RPE and choroidal tissues from myopic and hyperopic chick eyes on the DNA and glycosaminoglycan (GAG) content in cultures of chick scleral fibroblasts. Primary cultures of fibroblastic cells expressing vimentin and -smooth muscle actin were established in serum-supplemented growth medium from 8-day-old normal chick sclera. The fibroblasts were subsequently co-cultured with posterior eye cup tissue (full thickness containing retina, RPE and choroid) obtained from untreated eyes and eyes wearing translucent diffusers (form-deprivation myopia, FDM) or -15D lenses (lens-induced myopia, LIM) for 3 days (post hatch day 5 to 8) (n=6 per treatment group). The effect of tissues (full thickness and individual retina, RPE, and choroid layers) from -15D (LIM) versus +15D (lens-induced hyperopia, LIH) treated eyes was also determined. Refraction changes in the direction predicted by the visual treatments were confirmed by retinoscopy prior to tissue collection. Glycosaminoglycan (GAG) and DNA content of the scleral fibroblast cultures were measured using GAG and PicoGreen assays. There was no significant difference in the effect of full thickness tissue from either FDM or LIM treated eyes on DNA and GAG content of scleral fibroblasts (DNA 8.9±2.6 µg and 8.4±1.1 µg, p=0.12; GAG 11.2±0.6 µg and 10.1±1.0 µg, p=0.34). Retina from LIM eyes did not alter fibroblast DNA or GAG content compared to retina from LIH eyes (DNA 27.2±1.7 µg versus 23.2±1.5 µg, p=0.21; GAG 28.1±1.7 µg versus. 28.7±1.2 µg, p=0.46). Similarly, the choroid from LIH and LIM eyes did not produce a differential effect on DNA content (DNA, LIM 46.9±6.4 versus LIH 51.5±4.7 µg, p=0.31), whereas GAG content was higher for cells in co-culture with choroid from LIH eyes (GAG 32.5±0.7 µg versus 18.9±1.2 µg, F1,6=9.210, p=0.0002). In contrast, fibroblast DNA was greater in co-culture with RPE from LIM eyes than the empty basket and DNA content less for co-culture with RPE from LIH eyes (LIM: 72.4±6.3 µg versus Empty basket: 46.03±1.0 µg; F1,6=69.99, p=0.0005 and LIH: 27.9±2.3 µg versus empty basket: 46.03±1.0 µg; p=0.0004). GAG content was higher with RPE from LIH eyes (LIH: 33.7±1.9 µg versus empty basket: 29.5±0.8 µg, F1,6=13.99, p=0.010) and lower with RPE from LIM eyes (LIM: 27.7±0.9 µg versus empty basket: 29.5±0.8 µg, p=0.021). GAG content of cells in co-culture with choroid from LIH eyes was higher compared to co-culture with choroid from LIM eyes (32.5±0.7 µg versus 18.9±1.2 µg respectively, F1,6=9.210, p=0.0002). In conclusion, these experiments provide evidence for a directional growth signal that is present (and remains) in the ex-vivo RPE, but that does not remain in the ex-vivo retina. The identity of this factor(s) that can modify scleral cell DNA and GAG content requires further research.

Effect of a novel compound from Lycopodium obscurum L. on osteogenic activity of osteoblasts in vitro

We investigated the potential of an extract of Lycopodium obscurum L.; stigmastane-3-oxo-21-oic acid (SA), to enhance osteogensis of mouse osteoblastic MC3T3-E1 cells. SA at a concentration of 16 µM was found to have no significant effect upon the viability of the cells, thus concentrations of 8 µM and 16 µM of SA were used in all further experiments. Both concentrations of SA had an inhibitory affect upon alkaline phosphatase activity (ALP) after 8 days incubation, however, after 16 days activity was restored to control levels. However Alizarin red S staining showed increased levels of mineralization for both concentrations after 16 days culture. Real time PCR showed inhibition of genes Runx2 and Osterix genes responsible for the up-regulation of ALP. However early time point (8 days) up-regulation of bone matrix mineralization genes OPN and OCN, and late time point (16 days) up-regulation of both Jun-D and Fra-2 mRNA expression was significantly enhanced. These results suggest a potential me-chanism of SA in enhancing bone fracture healing is through the up-regulating bone matrix minera-lization.

Chitosan adhesive for laser tissue repair: In vitro characterization

Background and Objectives Laser tissue repair usually relies on hemoderivate protein solders, based on serum albumin. These solders have intrinsic limitations that impair their widespread use, such as limited tensile strength of repaired tissue, poor solder solubility, and brittleness prior to laser denaturation. Furthermore, the required activation temperature of albumin solders (between 65 and 70°C) can induce significant thermal damage to tissue. In this study, we report on the design of a new polysaccharide adhesive for tissue repair that overcomes some of the shortcomings of traditional solders. Study Design/Materials and Methods Flexible and insoluble strips of chitosan adhesive (elastic modulus ~6.8 Mpa, surface area ~34 mm2, thickness ~20 µm) were bonded onto rectangular sections of sheep intestine using a diode laser (continuous mode, 120 ± 10 mW, = λ 808 nm) through a multimode optical fiber with an irradiance of ~15 W/cm2. The adhesive was based on chitosan and also included indocyanin green dye (IG). The temperature between tissue and adhesive was measured using a small thermocouple (diameter ~0.25 mm) during laser irradiation. The repaired tissue was tested for tensile strength by a calibrated tensiometer. Murine fibroblasts were cultured in extracted media from chitosan adhesive to assess cytotoxicity via cell growth inhibition in a 48 hours period. Results Chitosan adhesive successfully repaired intestine tissue, achieving a tensile strength of 14.7 ± 4.7 kPa (mean ± SD, n = 30) at a temperature of 60-65°C. Media extracted from chitosan adhesive showed negligible toxicity to fibroblast cells under the culture conditions examined here. Conclusion A novel chitosan-based adhesive has been developed, which is insoluble, flexible, and adheres firmly to tissue upon infrared laser activation.

Diversification for sustainable development in rural and regional Australia : how local community leaders conceptualise the impacts and opportunities from agriculture, tourism and mining

Although the multiple economic, environmental and social challenges threatening the viability of rural and regional communities in Australia are well-known, little research has explored how community leaders conceptualise the impact and opportunities associated with economic diversification from agriculture into alternative industries, such as tourism and mining. This qualitative research, utilising the Darling Downs in Queensland as a case study, documents how 28 local community leaders have experienced this economic diversification process. The findings reveal that local community leaders have a deep understanding about the opportunities and challenges presented by diversification, articulating a clear vision about how to achieve the best possible future for their region. Despite excitement about growth, there were concerns about preserving heritage, the increased pressure on local infrastructure and an ageing population. By documenting local leader’s insights, these findings may help inform planning for rural and regional communities and facilitate management of the exciting yet challenging process of growth and diversification

Lineage-specific biomarkers predict response to FGFR inhibition

In this issue of Cancer Discovery, Guagnano and colleagues use a large and diverse annotated collection of cancer cell lines, the Cancer Cell Line Encyclopedia, to correlate whole-genome expression and genomic alteration datasets with cell line sensitivity data to the novel pan-fibroblast growth factor receptor (FGFR) inhibitor NVP-BGJ398. Their findings underscore not only the preclinical use of such cell line panels in identifying predictive biomarkers, but also the emergence of the FGFRs as valid therapeutic targets, across an increasingly broad range of malignancies.

Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : identifying a fresh perspective about their role in the world order of fashion

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as “Paris of the East”. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, “Made in China” is being replaced by “Created in China” drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity.

Chinese fashion designers in Shanghai : a new perspective about their role in the construction of a fashion city

Shanghai possesses an apt legacy, once referred to as ‘Paris of the East’. Municipal aspirations for Shanghai to assume a position among the great fashion cities of the world have been integrated in the recent re-shaping of this modern city into a role model for Chinese creative enterprise yet China is still known primarily as centre of clothing production. Increasingly however, ‘Made in China’ is being replaced by ‘Created in China’ drawing attention to two distinct consumer markets for Chinese designers. Fashion designers who have entered the global fashion system for education or by showing their collections have generally adopted a design aesthetic that aligns with Western markets, allowing little competitive advantage. In contrast, Chinese designers who rest their attention on the domestic Chinese market find a disparate, highly competitive marketplace. The pillars of authenticity that for foreign fashion brands extend far into their cultural and creative histories, often for many decades in the case of Louis Vuitton, Hermes and Christian Dior do not yet exist in China in this era of rapid globalisation. Here, the cultural bedrock allows these same pillars to extend only thirty years or so into the past reaching the moments when Deng Xiaoping granted China’s creative entrepreneurs passage. To this end, interviews with fashion designers in Shanghai have been undertaken during the last twelve months for a PhD dissertation. Production of culture theory has been used to identify working methods, practices of production and the social and cultural milieu necessary for designers to achieve viability. Preliminary findings indicate that some fashion designers have adopted an as-yet unexplored strategy of business and brand development with a distinct Chinese aesthetic at its core, in contrast to the clichéd cultural iconography often viewed by Western viewers as representative of Chinese creativity. The development of this aesthetic is similar to the development of the Scandinavian design ethos that emerged during the 1950s.