Fashion retailing and the bottom line : The effects of generational cohorts, gender, fashion fanship, attitudes and impulse buying on fashion expenditure

This study examines the influence of demographic ( eg. gender and generational cohort) and psychographic ( eg. fashion fanship, attitudes and impulse buying) drivers on frequency and levels of expenditure on fanship purchases, Using regression analysis, the results suggest that for weekly and monthly expenditure, gender and fashion fanship were significant influences, while for yearly expenditure, gender and impulse buying were significant. Attitudes towards fanship had no significant influence on expenditure. Females purchase more often and were significantly different from males on yearly expenditure, fashion fanship, attitudes and impulse buying. Generation Y is higher on purchase frequency, fashion fanship, attitudes and impulse buying compared with other cohorts under investigation.

Patterning fashion : drafting a visual framework

Christine Schmidt uses swimwear to illustrate that the methodological practice of the assemblage of pattern pieces is inherent to the intellectual construction that underpins fashion's cultural and historical discourses. She argues that these common threads are woven together to shape the finished 'global' garment.

Involvement of target contrast in visual masking location tasks deficients in myopia

Purpose: There have been few studies of visual temporal processing of myopic eyes. This study investigated the visual performance of emmetropic and myopic eyes using a backward visual masking location task. Methods: Data were collected for 39 subjects (15 emmetropes, 12 stable myopes, 12 progressing myopes). In backward visual masking, a target’s visibility is reduced by a mask presented in quick succession ‘after’ the target. The target and mask stimuli were presented at different interstimulus intervals (from 12 to 300 ms). The task involved locating the position of a target letter with both a higher (seven per cent) and a lower (five per cent) contrast. Results: Emmetropic subjects had significantly better performance for the lower contrast location task than the myopes (F2,36 = 22.88; p < 0.001) but there was no difference between the progressing and stable myopic groups (p = 0.911). There were no differences between the groups for the higher contrast location task (F2,36 = 0.72, p = 0.495). No relationship between task performance and either the magnitude of myopia or axial length was found for either task. Conclusions: A location task deficit was observed in myopes only for lower contrast stimuli. Both emmetropic and myopic groups had better performance for the higher contrast task compared to the lower contrast task, with myopes showing considerable improvement. This suggests that five per cent contrast may be the contrast threshold required to bias the task towards the magnocellular system (where myopes have a temporal processing deficit). Alternatively, the task may be sensitive to the contrast sensitivity of the observer.

Fashion manufacturing in New Zealand : can design contribute to a sustainable fashion Industry?

In the late 1990s New Zealand fashion gained some international recognition for its dark edginess and intellectual connection due to its colonial past (Molloy, 2004). In the years since, this momentum seems to have dissipated as local fashion companies have followed a global trend towards inexpensive off shore manufacturing. The transfer of the making of garments to overseas workers appears to have resulted in a local fashion scene where many garments look the same in style, colour, cut and fit. The excitement of the past, where the majority of fashion designers established their own individuality through the cut and shape of the garments that they produced, may have been inadvertently lost. Consequently a sustainable New Zealand fashion and manufacturing industry, with design integrity, seems further out of reach. The first question posed by this research project is, ‘can the design and manufacture of a fashion garment, bearing in mind certain economic and practical restrictions at its inception, result in the development of a distinctive ‘look’ or ‘handwriting’?’ Second, through development of a collection of prototypes, can potential garments be created to be sustainably manufactured in New Zealand?

Identification of alcohol involvement in injury-related hospitalisations using routine data compared to medical record review

Objective: To quantify the extent to which alcohol related injuries are adequately identified in hospitalisation data using ICD-10-AM codes indicative of alcohol involvement. Method: A random sample of 4373 injury-related hospital separations from 1 July 2002 to 30 June 2004 were obtained from a stratified random sample of 50 hospitals across 4 states in Australia. From this sample, cases were identified as involving alcohol if they contained an ICD-10-AM diagnosis or external cause code referring to alcohol, or if the text description extracted from the medical records mentioned alcohol involvement. Results: Overall, identification of alcohol involvement using ICD codes detected 38% of the alcohol-related sample, whilst almost 94% of alcohol-related cases were identified through a search of the text extracted from the medical records. The resultant estimate of alcohol involvement in injury-related hospitalisations in this sample was 10%. Emergency department records were the most likely to identify whether the injury was alcohol-related with almost three-quarters of alcohol-related cases mentioning alcohol in the text abstracted from these records. Conclusions and Implications: The current best estimates of the frequency of hospital admissions where alcohol is involved prior to the injury underestimate the burden by around 62%. This is a substantial underestimate that has major implications for public policy, and highlights the need for further work on improving the quality and completeness of routine administrative data sources for identification of alcohol-related injuries.

On Gloves

This article explores the historical symbolic meanings of gloves.

The power of a single prototype : sustainable fashion textile design and the prevention of carcinogenic melanoma

Is there a role for prototyping (sketching, pattern making and sampling) in addressing real world problems of sustainability (People, Profit, and Planet), in this case social/healthcare issues, through fashion and textiles research? Skin cancer and related illnesses are a major cause of disfigurement and death in New Zealand and Australia where the rates of Melanoma, a serious form of skin cancer, are four times higher than in the Northern Hemisphere regions of USA, UK and Canada (IARC, 1992). In 2007, AUT University (Auckland University of Technology) Fashion Department and the Health Promotion Department of Cancer Society - Auckland Division (CSA) developed a prototype hat aimed at exploring a barrier type solution to prevent facial and neck skin damage. This is a paradigm shift from the usual medical research model. This paper provides an overview of the project and examines how a fashion prototype has been used to communicate emergent social, environmental, personal, physiological and technological concerns to the trans-disciplinary research team. The authors consider how the design of a product can enhance and support sustainable design practice while contributing a potential solution to an ongoing health issue. Analysis of this case study provides an insight into prototyping in fashion and textiles design, user engagement and the importance of requirements analysis in relation to sustainable development. The analysis and a successful outcome of the final prototype have provided a gateway to future collaborative research and product development.

Fashion design research : research methodologies for emerging researchers [Abstract]

This paper attempts to address some fundamental issues faced by new and emerging researchers in the discipline of Fashion design. A culture of patchwork research methodology appears to have become the norm in an attempt to ‘fit’ fashion design research into an academic paradigm for the examination of readers from more traditional research fields such as Arts, Humanities, Science and Philosophy. Two key questions are discussed here; is it appropriate for fashion researchers to adopt and adapt existing research methodologies to find a scholarly, academic voice? Secondly; do these methodologies enable fashion design research to be effectively disseminated to professionals and fellow researchers within the discipline of fashion design?

Needing to connect : The effect of self and others on young people’s involvement with their mobile phones

The present research was a preliminary examination of young Australians’ mobile phone behaviour. The study explored the relationship between, and psychological predictors of, frequency of mobile phone use and mobile phone involvement conceptualised as people’s cognitive and behavioural interaction with their mobile phone. Participants were 946 Australian youth aged between 15 and 24 years. A descriptive measurement tool, the Mobile Phone Involvement Questionnaire (MPIQ), was developed. Self-identity and validation from others were explored as predictors of both types of mobile phone behaviour. A distinction was found between frequency of mobile phone use and mobile phone involvement. Only self-identity predicted frequency of use whereas both self-identity and validation from others predicted mobile phone involvement. These findings reveal the importance of distinguishing between frequency of use and people’s psychological relationship with their phone and that factors relating to one’s self-concept and approval from others both impact on young people’s mobile phone involvement.