Projeto mecânico de equipamento para fabrico automatizado de vestuário

O fabrico de vestuário é uma atividade que se desenvolve em Portugal há várias décadas. Existem marcas de vestuário com reconhecimento a nível mundial que são de origem portuguesa. Para se conseguir qualidade é necessário inovar e automatizar determinados processos, de forma a aumentar produtividades e reduzir erros devido à mão de obra de tarefas intensivas. Na empresa Portuguesa Henrique Camões, com uma vasta experiência ligada a equipamentos de fabrico têxtil, nasceu a ideia de projetar um protótipo de um equipamento automatizado para o fabrico de colarinhos e punhos, com a finalidade de verificar a sua viabilidade a nível funcional. Este trabalho teve assim por base a necessidade de efetuar um projeto sobre um equipamento capaz de costurar e cortar colarinhos e punhos, a serem aplicados em peças de vestuário. Inicialmente foi efetuado um estudo prévio de levantamento de equipamentos já existentes para fins semelhantes. Foi então necessário idealizar um equipamento capaz de responder às expectativas e exigências por parte do cliente. Após os esboços iniciais, onde foram definidos os tipos de mecanismos e formas de funcionamento dos diferentes sistemas em função dos movimentos e ações pretendidas e a estrutura do equipamento, estes sistemas foram otimizados por forma a se obter como resultado final um equipamento funcional. Foi também projetado o esquema pneumático e Grafcet de funcionamento do equipamento. Como auxiliares do projeto, apresentam-se a lista de componentes e de processos de fabrico, bem como os desenhos de pormenor de todos os componentes integrantes da estrutura. O resultado final é um conjunto de ideias e soluções possíveis de aplicar num equipamento deste tipo. De facto, a solução proposta é uma possibilidade viável para um equipamento automatizado para costura e corte de colarinhos e punhos.

Application of ionic liquids and enzymes for the removal of proteinaceous layers from polychrome of works of art and evaluation of the cleaning effectiveness

Dissertação Apresentada na Faculdade de Ciências e Tecnologia da Universidade Nova de Lisboa para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Ciências da Conservação, especialização em Pintura

Treatment of a nineteenth century male portrait in oil including the characterisation of materials, technique and a study of the lead soap aggregation in the paint composite

Dissertação para obtenção do Grau de Mestre em Conservação e Restauro

Papo D’Anjo - International strategic implementation plan to Brazil

A Work Project, presented as part of the requirements for the Award of a Masters Degree in Management from the NOVA – School of Business and Economics

Mansfield and Lewis: impressionism and vorticism in the short story

The affinities of the short story with the style of painting dominating the period in which it is produced have often been debated by critics. The effects of the application of impressionist and vorticist principles in painting turns out differently in Katherine Mansfield and Wyndham Lewis’ short stories structure and strategies, according to their conceptions of Art and Life and to his career as a painter.

Genetic and functional analysis of the bacillus subtilis BSP1 gam cluster

Mannans (linear mannan, glucomannan, galactomannan and galactoglucomannan) are the major constituents of the hemicellulose fraction in softwoods and show great importance as a renewable resource for fuel or feedstock applications. As complex polysaccharides, mannans can only be degraded through a synergistic action of different mannan-degrading enzymes, mannanases. Microbial mannanases are mainly extracellular enzymes that can act in wide range of pH and temperature, contributing to pulp and paper, pharmaceutical, food and feed, oil and textile successful industrial applications. Knowing and controlling these microbial mannan-degrading enzymes are essential to take advantage of their great biotechnological potential. The genome of the laboratory 168 strain of Bacillus subtilis carries genes gmuA-G dedicated to the degradation and utilization of glucomannan, including an extracellular -mannanase. Recently, the genome sequence of an undomesticated strain of B. subtilis, BSP1, was determined. In BSP1, the gmuA-G operon is maintained, interestingly, however, a second cluster of genes was found (gam cluster), which comprise a second putative extracellular β-mannanase, and most likely specify a system for the degradation and utilization of a different mannan polymer, galactoglucomannan. The genetic organization and function of the gam cluster, and whether its presence in BSP1 strain results in new hemicellulolytic capabilities, compared to those of the laboratory strain, was address in this work. In silico and in vivo mRNA analyses performed in this study revealed that the gam cluster, comprising nine genes, is organized and expressed in at least six different transcriptional units. Furthermore, cloning, expression, and production of Bbsp2923 in Escherichia coli was achieved and preliminary characterization shows that the enzyme is indeed a β-mannanase. Finally, the high hemicellulolytic capacity of the undomesticated B. subtilis BSP1, demonstrated in this work by qualitative analyses, suggests potential to be used in the food and feed industries.

Long-term characterization of air lime mortars with ceramic waste

Due to their exposure to environmental conditions, outer coatings composed by render and painting system are usually the first construction elements to deteriorate and require intervention. A correct conservation and rehabilitation of these materials is fundamental once they provide protection to other façade materials. It is known that old mortar renders were essentially air lime based mortars. To maintain the integrity of the whole wall-render elements, the image of the building and to avoid accelerated degradation, conservation and rehabilitation must be implemented with compatible mortars. As that, lime based mortars would be preferable. It was also common, in ancient renders, the incorporation of ceramic residues, which is, nowadays, an abundant material, especially in Central Region of Portugal. The reuse of these materials has great relevance once their landfilling causes serious environmental issues. In an attempt to combine the environmental and technical advantages of the use of ceramic waste in mortars’ production for rehabilitation purposes, a research has been developed at the University of Coimbra, in cooperation with Nova University of Lisbon, on the long term behaviour of air lime mortars with ceramic residues. In this paper the most significant up to one year results of an experimental campaign with air lime mortars with 1:3 and 1:2 volumetric proportions and ceramic residues are presented.

O Ressurgimento da Pintura Decorativa nos Interiores Palacianos Lisboetas: da Regeneração às Vésperas da República

Esta tese procura defender a ideia de que foi a vinda para Portugal, nos anos 30 do século XIX, dos arquitectos, cenógrafos, e pintores decoradores de origem italiana, Cinatti e Rambois, que permitiu o retomar do fio perdido da pintura decorativa no País. Na década de 1830, dava-se, assim, início a uma nova etapa, na qual se concretizam uma série de encomendas de decoração de interiores que procuram satisfazer uma burguesia emergente, que assim sublinha o seu status social ao restaurar e transformar palácios antigos, ou ao mandar construir novos palácios e palacetes, que irão ser profusamente decorados por uma nova geração de pintores-decoradores. Era inaugurado o ressurgimento da pintura decorativa em Portugal. Esta dissertação tem também como um dos seus objectivos principais dar a conhecer e divulgar o património ímpar que constitui a pintura decorativa, para assim o poder depois proteger, num País em que o “fachadismo” faz escola, permitindo-se que os interiores sejam demolidos, e em que as artes decorativas são ainda tão esquecidas ou menosprezadas Este trabalho constitui – esperamos- uma primeira aproximação científica ao estudo de todo um conjunto de edifícios de valor patrimonial inestimável e à realidade que albergam no seu interior.

The brushstroke and materials of Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso combined in an authentication tool

Nowadays, authentication studies for paintings require a multidisciplinary approach, based on the contribution of visual features analysis but also on characterizations of materials and techniques. Moreover, it is important that the assessment of the authorship of a painting is supported by technical studies of a selected number of original artworks that cover the entire career of an artist. This dissertation is concerned about the work of modernist painter Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso. It is divided in three parts. In the first part, we propose a tool based on image processing that combines information obtained by brushstroke and materials analysis. The resulting tool provides qualitative and quantitative evaluation of the authorship of the paintings; the quantitative element is particularly relevant, as it could be crucial in solving authorship controversies, such as judicial disputes. The brushstroke analysis was performed by combining two algorithms for feature detection, namely Gabor filter and Scale Invariant Feature Transform. Thanks to this combination (and to the use of the Bag-of-Features model), the proposed method shows an accuracy higher than 90% in distinguishing between images of Amadeo’s paintings and images of artworks by other contemporary artists. For the molecular analysis, we implemented a semi-automatic system that uses hyperspectral imaging and elemental analysis. The system provides as output an image that depicts the mapping of the pigments present, together with the areas made using materials not coherent with Amadeo’s palette, if any. This visual output is a simple and effective way of assessing the results of the system. The tool proposed based on the combination of brushstroke and molecular information was tested in twelve paintings obtaining promising results. The second part of the thesis presents a systematic study of four selected paintings made by Amadeo in 1917. Although untitled, three of these paintings are commonly known as BRUT, Entrada and Coty; they are considered as his most successful and genuine works. The materials and techniques of these artworks have never been studied before. The paintings were studied with a multi-analytical approach using micro-Energy Dispersive X-ray Fluorescence spectroscopy, micro-Infrared and Raman Spectroscopy, micro-Spectrofluorimetry and Scanning Electron Microscopy. The characterization of Amadeo’s materials and techniques used on his last paintings, as well as the investigation of some of the conservation problems that affect these paintings, is essential to enrich the knowledge on this artist. Moreover, the study of the materials in the four paintings reveals commonalities between the paintings BRUT and Entrada. This observation is supported also by the analysis of the elements present in a photograph of a collage (conserved at the Art Library of the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation), the only remaining evidence of a supposed maquete of these paintings. The final part of the thesis describes the application of the image processing tools developed in the first part of the thesis on a set of case studies; this experience demonstrates the potential of the tool to support painting analysis and authentication studies. The brushstroke analysis was used as additional analysis on the evaluation process of four paintings attributed to Amadeo, and the system based on hyperspectral analysis was applied on the painting dated 1917. The case studies therefore serve as a bridge between the first two parts of the dissertation.

O Marquês de Sousa Holstein e a formação da Galeria Nacional de Pintura da Academia de Belas Artes de Lisboa

Neste trabalho definimos e desenvolvemos algumas ideias centrais sobre a Galeria Nacional de Pintura da Academia de Belas Artes de Lisboa, da formação do seu acervo a partir de 1834, com a extinção das ordens religiosas, até à abertura do Museu Nacional de Belas Artes e Arqueologia, em 1884. Em análise estão 50 anos de esforços empreendidos por vários agentes, com destaque para o marquês de Sousa Holstein, vice-­‐inspetor da Academia, em prol da organização, conservação, exposição, estudo, promoção e divulgação do seu acervo, assim como do seu enriquecimento por meio de transferências, aquisições ou doações que estão na origem do mais relevante museu público de arte nacional.

Ética e Responsabilidade Social Empresarial – A contribuição das empresas na promoção da equidade e da justiça social: análise a partir da experiência de algumas empresas do setor têxtil do Norte de Minas – MG – Brasil

Os efeitos da mundialização do capital e as implicações do neoliberalismo reconfiguraram os mercados e geraram alterações no comportamento dos indivíduos. Esses novos cenários de produção do social alteram as definições dos papéis dos atores tradicionais e conduzem-nos ao questionamento do sentido das suas ações. Assim, interessa-nos, particularmente, analisar a corresponsabilidade das empresas no desenvolvimento social e humano e no processo de transformação social. Essa reflexão obriga-nos a tecer considerações sobre a definição do estatuto económico das empresas e as suas finalidades éticas, ou a articulação entre, por um lado, os constrangimentos de gestão que pesam sobre as empresas a curto prazo e o plano singular e, por outro lado, as suas funções económicas a médio e a longo prazo e o plano do conjunto da sociedade. Esta discussão tem sido feita dentro dos esforços de teorização sobre a “responsabilidade social das empresas” (RSE). O presente estudo busca contribuir para uma discussão sobre o significado desta responsabilidade. Para tal, fizemos um inventário das dimensões associadas na literatura às práticas de RSE a partir das quais construímos uma tipologia das diferentes modalidades de responsabilidade que podem ser invocadas. Procurámos perceber como, e em que medida, as dimensões em que são promovidas como marcas da responsabilidade social das empresas se encontram distribuídas em tecidos económicos comuns, ou seja, tecidos económicos significativos de um ponto de vista intencional ou compreensivo e representativos, ao mesmo tempo, no plano extensivo, de práticas responsáveis nos planos da equidade e da justiça social. Esta orientação justifica-se pelo facto de, para além do conhecimento de práticas emblemáticas, o nosso estudo visa a compreensão de contextos socioeconómicos marcados por grandes disparidades na distribuição dos indicadores de equidade económica e de justiça social e onde, portanto, práticas empresariais responsáveis poderiam ter um significado e um efeito importantes na perspetiva da transformação das situações. Na realização da pesquisa empírica, optámos pela região Norte de Minas Gerais, no Brasil. Optámos, ainda, pelo setor do téxtil, tendo em conta: a sua importância para a região; a sua interdependência entre níveis de responsabilidade diferentes; a grande abrangência das atividades económicas envolvidas; a distribuição da atividade por empresas de diferentes dimensões e escalas e o número importante de trabalhadores abrangidos. Esta escolha do setor e do território possibilitou a consideração de diferentes vetores de análise: os modos de produção; as dimensões de empresas; os níveis de implicação no processo de globalização; os modos de inserção na economia; os setores implicados na cadeia produtiva; os tipos de trabalho – responsável e irresponsável. Neste estudo, procura-se identificar as práticas responsáveis, de acordo com a tipologia que construímos, com intuito de elencar quais têm sido as boas (ou más) práticas das empresas no Norte de Minas na perspetiva da RSE. Isto significa que, em oposição às modalidades de prática que se ajustam à definição de RSE, se perfilam outras que não obedecem aos critérios da certificação, existindo ainda muitas que poderemos considerar de irresponsabilidade, à luz dos valores éticos e de justiça social promovidos pelo label RSE.

Analysis and Treatment of a male portrait in oil and a study of the size layer with reconstructions from Vibert’s recipe (1892)

This thesis project concentrated on both the study and treatment of an early 20th century male portrait in oil from Colecção Caixa Geral de Depósitos, Lisbon, Portugal. The portrait of Januário Correia de Almeida, exhibits a tear (approximately 4.0 cm by 2.3 cm) associated with paint loss on the right upper side, where it is possible to observe an unusually thick size layer (approximately 50 microns) and an open weave mesh canvas. Size layers made from animal glue remain subject to severe dimensional changes due to changes in relative humidity (RH), thereby affecting the stability of the painting. In this case, the response to moisture of the size layer is minimal and the painting is largely uncracked with very little active flaking. This suggests that the size layer has undergone pre-treatment to render it unresponsive to moisture or water. Reconstructions based on late nineteenth century recipes using historically appropriate materials are used to explore various options for modifying the characteristics of gelatine, some of which may relate to the Portrait’s size layer. The thesis is separated into two parts: Part 1: Describes the history, condition, materials and techniques of the painting. It also details the treatment of Januário Correia de Almeida as well as the choices made and problems encountered during the treatment. Part 2: Discusses the history of commercial gelatine production, the choice of the appropriate animal source to extract the collagen to produce reconstructions of the portrait’s size layer as well as the characterization of selected reconstructions. The execution of a shallow textured infill led to one publication and one presentation: Abstract accepted for presentation and publication, International Meeting on Retouching of Cultural Heritage (RECH3), Francisco Brites, Leslie Carlyle and Raquel Marques, ‘’Hand building a Low Profile Textured Fill for a Large Loss’’.

Analysis and treatment of a nineteenth century portrait, study of Artsorb® and a proposal for a microclimate frame

The present work is divided in two parts: Part 1 is focused on the analysis and treatment of a 19th century portrait of Domingos Affonso, which belongs to the Ecomuseu Municipal do Seixal; and Part 2, which is entitled “The Microclimate Frame Project” is focused on the study of Artsorb® and on the planning of a microclimate frame for the painting. In Part 1, a study of the painting’s materials was performed using complementary analytical techniques and the painting’s condition was carefully evaluated. The painting exhibited signs of mould growth, and a more detailed investigation was made of this topic to understand if the fungal community was active and if it represented a real danger to the painting. A treatment was proposed, appropriate to the painting’s condition. A description of the treatment carried out, comprising the treatment options, is also present in this section. Within the study of the microclimate frame, in Part 2, the study of the potential corrosiveness of Artsorb® was a central subject. Artsorb® sheets are one of the most widely used materials for buffering relative humidity fluctuations in microclimate frames and its reported excellent performance is enhanced by its availability in lightweight sheets that can be easily placed inside microclimate frames. However, concerns have arisen regarding the presence of the corrosive salt lithium chloride in the composition of this buffer. Consequently, the present work also aimed to understand the potential risks of using Artsorb® and the possibility of avoiding exposure of lithium chloride to the artworks through the use of Tyvek®. Results from the preliminary tests seem to indicate that Artsorb® releases lithium chloride into air. This study also showed that a Tyvek® cover over Artsorb® reduces but does not eliminate evidence of chlorine contamination, and it significantly reduces the effectiveness of the buffering material. Considering that Artsorb® appears to be unsuitable due to the release of the corrosive salt, that Tyvek® was not efficient as a barrier for lithium chloride or as a permeable material to enable the proper functioning of Artsorb®, the buffering material proposed for the use in the microclimate frames is silica gel without indicator. Based on the choice of buffering material, as a result of this study, a microclimate frame is proposed.

The names of things: terminology and the practice of art history

This paper aims to explore the ways in which standard art history terminology shapes the practice of art history by conditioning the interpretation of specific works of art and, in certain cases, the definition of a research subject (especially where questions of genre and periodization are concerned). Taking as a case study a painting by Georges de La Tour, the Peasant Couple Eating, I will argue that terms such as realism, realistic, naturalistic etc. used for its description and/or interpretation, far from constituting objective stylistic characterizations, shape our perception of the work in question. Bringing the question of social class to the center of the discourse on realism, I propose to show how the social divide between the painter and his subject matter (in this case, the peasants) is internalized in the painting’s style and meaning, and how it is fundamental for the understanding of its intentionality and function.

The perfect paint in modern art conservation: a comparative study of 21st century vinyl emulsions

Contemporary painting places, and will continue to place, several questions about its meaning, its chemical nature, its durability and the best way to preserve it. This research aims at putting together comprehensive data on vinyl based paints, including their components, their properties, their aging behavior and their response to selected cleaning products. In this project degradation mechanisms of vinyl binders and formulations used in the 20th and 21st century were studied. Stability over time of selected vinyl polymers was assessed through natural indoor and artificially aging. The objective was to enhance knowledge and understanding of vinyl emulsion formulations and their performance over time. Overall conservation state of pictorial layers namely, adhesion, cohesion and discoloration of selected case studies from the Portuguese artist Julião Sarmento (b.1948) was correlated with the observed molecular level changes studied in laboratory experiments. Sarmento’s paintings were chosen due to conservation concerns (discoloration) on some of his works from the 90’s. Besides, research was carried out to start increasing the knowledge of what can be expected of PVAc based paints in terms of response to conservation treatments namely, surface cleaning. Artificial aging showed that the most recent formulations which are based on a poly(vinyl acetate), poly(vinyl chloride) and polyethylene terpolymer are less stable when compared to some homopolymer formulations. From the four pigments studied, titanium dioxide rutile and a carbon based black proved to be stabilizers for both types of polymer. The mixture lithopone plus calcium carbonate has showed to have a photocatalytic effect on the binders. The studied paintings showed to be in an overall good state of conservation except for the paintings created in the 90’s with white glue and a mixture of white lithoponeand calcium carbonate. Discoloration of this white paint seems to be irreversible and ongoing and is still a major concern. The disapearance of the plasticizer was the only change detected. The current works created by Sarmento are expected to be more stable as they were painted using the rutile titanium dioxide. Immersion/cleaning tests showed that vinyl based paints can be susceptible to water and organic solvents like ethanol as some evidences point to the removal/diffusion of additives from the paint. The observations made point to the need to further proceed in this research field.