Choose Life not Economic Growth: Critical Social Theory for People, Planet and Flourishing in the ‘Age of Nature’

Choose a fucking big television Choose washing machines, cars, compact disc players, and electrical tin openers... Choose leisure wear and matching luggage. Choose a three piece suite on hire purchase in a range of fucking fabrics. Choose DIY and wondering who you are on a Sunday morning. Choose sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing sprit-crushing game shows Stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. Choose your future. Choose life. (Irvine Welsh, Trainspotting, 1996) Anyone who believes exponential growth can go on forever in a finite world is either a madman or an economist (Kenneth Boulding)

Modelling the Geometry of the Repeat Unit Cell of Three-Dimensional Weave Architectures,

The three-dimensional (3D) weaving process offers the ability to tailor the mechanical properties via design of the weave architecture. One repeat of the 3D woven fabric is represented by the unit cell. The model accepts basic weaver and material manufacturer data as inputs in order to calculate the geometric characteristics of the 3D woven unit cell. The specific weave architecture manufactured and subsequently modelled had an angle interlock type binding configuration. The modelled result was shown to have a close approximation compared to the experimentally measured values and highlighted the importance of the representation of the binder tow path.

A Scalable and Programmable Modular Traffic Manager Architecture

A key issue in the design of next generation Internet routers and switches will be provision of traffic manager (TM) functionality in the datapaths of their high speed switching fabrics. A new architecture that allows dynamic deployment of different TM functions is presented. By considering the processing requirements of operations such as policing and congestion, queuing, shaping and scheduling, a solution has been derived that is scalable with a consistent programmable interface. Programmability is achieved using a function computation unit which determines the action (e.g. drop, queue, remark, forward) based on the packet attribute information and a memory storage part. Results of a Xilinx Virtex-5 FPGA reference design are presented.

Separation of acid-dyes mixture by bamboo derived active carbon

In the present study, the activated carbon is produced using phosphoric acid treatment of the waste bamboo scaffolding and activated at either 400 or 600 °C. The effect of acid to bamboo ratio (Xp) up to 2.4 has been studied. The BET surface area increased with increasing Xp and activating temperature. BET surface area up to 2500 m2/g carbon has been produced. In order to simulate effluent treatment from textile industry, the produced carbon was tested for its dye adsorption capacities. Two acid dyes with different molecular sizes were used, namely Acid Yellow 117 (AY117) and Acid Blue 25 (AB25). In a single component system, it was found that dye with smaller molecular size, AB25, was readily adsorbed onto the carbon while the larger size dye, AY117, showed little adsorption. As a result, it is possible to tailor-make the carbon for the adsorption of dye mixtures in industrial applications, especially textile dyeing, i.e. molecular sieve effect. A binary AY117–AB25 mixture was used to test the possibility of the molecular sieve effect. Furthermore, experimental results were fitted to equilibrium isotherm models, Langmuir, Freundlich and Sips for the single component system. For the binary component system, extended single-component equilibrium isotherm models were used to predict the experimental data.

Fabrication and Ms Conduct: Scrutinising Practice Through Feminist Theory

This paper describes a collaborative practice, between an architect (the author) and a textile designer; its outcomes and the critical theoretical and feminist contexts from which the practice evolved and to which it still responds. The practice advocates the interweaving of more than the yarns, material and cultures on which it is physically based, but also the intertwining of theory and technology as a means to advance architectural practice. This is done in response to Ahrentzen’s charge to feminist scholars and practitioners to ‘embrace not only the abstract conceptual nature of much postmodernist theorizing but also that derived from the serious “hanging out”, looking at, listening to, scrutinising and theorizing lived experiences of the everyday’, in this instance the everyday practice of combining concrete and textiles.

Rapid Implementation and Optimisation of DSP Systems on SoPC Heterogeneous Platforms

The emergence of programmable logic devices as processing platforms for digital signal processing applications poses challenges concerning rapid implementation and high level optimization of algorithms on these platforms. This paper describes Abhainn, a rapid implementation methodology and toolsuite for translating an algorithmic expression of the system to a working implementation on a heterogeneous multiprocessor/field programmable gate array platform, or a standalone system on programmable chip solution. Two particular focuses for Abhainn are the automated but configurable realisation of inter-processor communuication fabrics, and the establishment of novel dedicated hardware component design methodologies allowing algorithm level transformation for system optimization. This paper outlines the approaches employed in both these particular instances.

Improvement of the efficiency of energy transfer in the hydro-entanglement process

Hydro-entanglement is a versatile process for bonding non-woven fabrics by the use of fine, closely-spaced, high-velocity jets of water to rearrange and entangle arrays of fibres. The cost of the process mainly depends on the amount of energy consumed. Therefore, the economy of the process is highly affected by optimisation of the energy required. In this paper a parameter called critical pressure is introduced which is indicative of the energy level requirement. The results of extensive experimental work are reported and analysed to give a clear understanding of the effect of the web and fibre properties on the critical pressure in the hydro-entanglement process. Furthermore, different energy-transfer distribution schemes are tested on various fabrics. The optimum scheme which involves the lowest energy consumption and the best fabric properties is identified. © 2001 Published by Elsevier Science Ltd. All rights reserved.

Effect of nozzle geometry on the flow characteristics of hydroentangling jets

Cone-capillary nozzles with varying cone angles from 10° to 120° and a capillary diameter of 120μ are experimentally investigated for their application in the hydroentanglement process. Cone-up and cone-down configurations in a range of water pressures of 30-120 bar are tested. The effects of the cone angle on flow parameters such as discharge and velocity coefficients and intact length are studied. Flow visualization techniques are used to recognize the flow regimes and characteristics and to inspect and compare the intact length and appearance of the jets. Cone-down nozzles with more consistent flow properties, lower discharges, and higher velocity coefficients are more suitable for the hydroentanglement process. Single-cone nozzles without capillaries and with varying cone angles are also tested. The flow properties of the jets from the single-cone nozzles are compared with the cone-capillary nozzles of the same cone angle to study the effect of the capillary section. The effect of the interaction of adjacent nozzles on the flow from multi-hole nozzles is studied, and the characteristics of the jets from the multi-hole nozzles are compared with the single-hole nozzles.

Application of fibre assemblies as damping elements in the automotive industry

This investigation aims to characterise the damping properties of the nonwoven materials with potential applications in automotive and aerospace industry. Nonwovens are a popular choice for many applications due to their relatively low manufacturing cost and unique properties. It is known that nonwovens are efficient energy dispersers for certain applications such as acoustic damping and ballistic impact. It is anticipated that these energy absorption properties could eventually be used to provide damping for mechanical vibrations. However the behaviour of nonwovens under dynamic load and vibration has not been investigated before. Therefore we intend to highlight these aspects of the behaviour of the nonwovens through this research. In order to obtain an insight to the energy absorption properties of the nonwoven fabrics, a range of tests has been performed. Forced vibration of the cantilever beam is used to explore damping over a range of resonance modes and input amplitudes. The tests are conducted on aramid, glass fibre and polyester fabrics with a range of area densities and various coatings. The tests clarified the general dynamic behaviour of the fabrics tested and the possible response in more real application condition as well. The energy absorption in both thickness and plane of the fabric is tested. The effects of the area density on the results are identified. The main absorption mechanism is known to be the friction. The frictional properties are improved by using a smaller fibre denier and increasing fibre length, this is a result of increasing contact surface between fibres. It is expected the increased friction result in improving damping. The results indicate different mechanism of damping for fiber glass fabrics compared to the aramid fabrics. The frequency of maximum efficiency of damping is identified for the fabrics tested. These can be used to recommend potential applications.

US Patent: Composite concrete article and method of manufacture thereof

A method of manufacturing a composite concrete article comprising affixing at least one layer of textile to a base layer and incorporating the base layer into a body of wet uncured concrete such that the base layer becomes embedded in the concrete, whereby at least a portion of the at least one textile layer defines at least a portion of a surface of the cured concrete article with the base layer embedded within the concrete to anchor the textile layer to the concrete.

Reductive photocatalysis and smart inks

Semiconductor-sensitised photocatalysis is a well-established and growing area of research, innovation and commercialisation; the latter being mostly limited to the use of TiO2 as the semiconductor. Most of the work on semiconductor photocatalytic systems uses oxygen as the electron acceptor and explores a wide range of electron donors; such systems can be considered to be examples of oxidative photocatalysis, OP. OP underpins most current examples of commercial self-cleaning materials, such as: glass, tiles, concrete, paint and fabrics. OP, and its myriad of applications, have been reviewed extensively over the years both in this journal and elsewhere. However, the ability of TiO2, and other semiconductor sensitisers, to promote reductive photocatalysis, RP, especially of dyes, is significant and, although less well-known, is of growing importance. In such systems, the source of the electrons is some easily oxidised species, such as glycerol. One recent, significant example of a RP process is with respect to photocatalyst activity indicator inks. paiis, which provide a measure of the activity of a photocatalytic film under test via the rate of change of colour of the dye in the ink coating due to irreversible RP. In contrast, by incorporating the semiconductor sensitiser in the ink, rather than outside it, it is possible to create an effective UV dosimeter, based on RP, which can be used as a sun-burn warning indicator. In the above examples the dye is reduced irreversibly, but when the photocatalyst in an ink is used to reversibly photoreduce a dye, a novel, colourimetric oxygen-sensitive indicator ink can be created, which has commercial potential in the food packaging industry. Finally, if no dye is present in the ink, and the semiconductor photocatalyst-loaded ink film coats an easily reduced substrate, such as a metal oxide film, then it can be used to reduce the latter and so, for example, clean up tarnished steel. The above are examples of smart inks, i.e. inks that are active and provide either dynamic information (such as UV dose or O2 level) or a useful function (such as tarnish removal), and all work via a RP process and are reviewed here

Spatial and temporal regulation of the pesticide dieldrin within industrial catchments

The river catchments of south Yorkshire support a very high density of wool processing industries. Dieldrin was once used as a moth proofing agent, as a sheep dip, and as a pesticide to protect wool fleeces during storage and transport, all of which caused pollution of these catchments due to textile processing. Weekly sampling of four of these rivers revealed two classes of dieldrin contamination: the Aire and Calder (the rivers which support very high concentrations of wool processing industries) had higher concentrations (averaging ~3 ng/l) than the Don and Trent (~1 ng/l). The average flux of dieldrin from these rivers into the Humber estuary was 9.8 g/day, with the Aire (of which the Calder is a tributary) and the Trent contributing almost equally, with a smaller contribution from the Don. The Trent has the highest average flow, explaining its large contribution to dieldrin flux. Less detailed sampling of rivers from the north Humber catchment which drain predominantly rural areas had dieldrin concentrations similar to the heavily industrialized southern catchment rivers. This suggests that dieldrin from agronomic and domestic usage may be more persistent than the pollution caused by textile processing industries. Evidence is presented to suggest that the principle dieldrin sources to the Humber catchments are sewage treatment plants, and that the dieldrin sources are in rapid equilibrium with the water column. (C) 2000 Elsevier Science B.V.

‘Reading Aran knitting: stitches, text andinterpretation’

The densely textured surfaces of Aran knitting seem to invite interpretation. They have been ‘read’ as identity documents, family trees, references to natural and spiritual phenomena, or even maps. This paper traces the search for meaning in Aran knitting, examining how these stitch patterns have been ‘read’ in the contexts of tourism, fine art and fashion. As Jo Turney (2013:55) argues, the idea of knitted textiles as communicative media in non-literate societies ‘consigns the garments to a preindustrial era of more rural and simple times’, situating them in an imagined state of ‘stasis’. Thus the ways in which Aran stitches are ‘read’ sometimes obscure the processes through which they are ‘written’, whether in terms of individual authorship and creativity, or in terms of their manufacture. Regardless of the historical veracity of claims that particular Aran stitch patterns index features of the social, natural or spiritual worlds, analysing the ways they have been ‘read’ in the context of comparable textile traditions, other crafts which have taken on ‘heritage’ souvenir status, and Irish national identity, reveals how Aran knitting has performed broader communicative functions (see Sonja Andrew 2008), which continue to be subverted and elaborated by fine artists, and translated into couture and mass market fashion products.