A comparative study of internationalization potential for Italian SMEs in the fashion industry in Brazil and Russia

Este estudo tem como objetivo desenvolver uma análise comparativa do potencial de internacionalização na Rússia e no Brasil para as PME italianas que operam na indústria da moda. Depois de apresentar ao leitor as principais áreas cobertas, tais como, o contexto, a metodologia e revisão da literatura, é fornecido um panorama macroeconômico das áreas geográficas composto, englobando um estudo específico sobre o estado atual da economia e da demanda para os bens italianos. O estudo, introduzindo o leitor na indústria de moda italiana, suas principais características e o desempenho atual, já evidencia a busca pela internacionalização. As conclusões decorrentes das análises macroeconômicas funcionam como introdução à visão geral da indústria de moda italiana, uma indústria que representa, fortemente, o "Made in Italy" no exterior. A breve análise da história desta indústria, principais características e situação atual irão, então, sugerir que a internacionalização é o caminho mais viável às PME, para se recuperarem dos anos turbulentos da crise. Entre o vasto conjunto de opções geográficas que as PME têm para abraçar internacionalização, este estudo tem como objetivo fornecer duas análises sobre a indústria da moda: o mercado russo e o brasileiro. A análise, com base no quadro de capacidade de ‘resposta internacional’ proposto por Bartlet e Ghoshal (1989), apresenta os resultados de um conjunto de pesquisas e entrevistas realizadas no Brasil, na Itália e na Rússia, sob a forma de uma análise comparativa dos dois mercados-alvo. A análise evidenciará os drivers de mercado, custo, competitividade e legislação que justificam o processo de internacionalização em ambos os mercados. Os resultados levam à conclusão e às recomendações que os dois mercados representam duas oportunidades muito diferentes para as PME da indústria da moda italiana.

Um estudo exploratório acerca do mercado luxo feminino: em São Paulo capital

Identificar a importância e o significado de produtos de luxo no segmento de alta renda.

Ecommerce as internationalization strategy: an exploratory study based on premium fashion brazilian brands: case study of farfetch

As stated by Hoffmann and Coste-Manière (2012) “The web is a mass medium that contrast completely with the traditional codes of exclusivity associated with the luxury industry, and has long been simply rejected by the luxury industry for being an illegitimate distribution channel.” Meanwhile this market presents an incomparable pace of growth and is gradually changing the existing retailing business model and companies must be aware of this change and capable to adapt to it. The internet and cross-border sales already changed the competition throughout retailing and it will increase even more, so companies must be ready to face it. Internet has shown its great opportunity for all markets, although luxury/premium market is not yet taking the proper advantage of its potential, but the necessity to be an omnichannel business strategy is growing. This paper presents an exploratory research based on a case study of how premium fashion Brazilian brands are using Farfetch, e-commerce, as an entry market strategy and how this affects them. The research question of this study is: How is Farfetch helping on the internationalization of Brazilian premium fashion brands?, and in order to answer it was conducted an in-depth interview with the Brazilian head of business development of Farfetch, apart an extensive secondary data research. As expected the study found a list of trade-offs of using an e-commerce, luxury specialized, with a marketplace approach to the brands willing to internationalize. As stated by Altagamma and McKinsey (2015) study “[...] luxury brands have no choice but to embrace the digital era and become truly omnichannel. This will require them a radical rethinking of both their customer experience of their consumer engagement strategy.” Looking either from the Farfetch point of view, trying to understand why they offer this opportunity to the brands, or also from the brand side if this is a manageable approach. This study presents a contribution for both sides, trying to give tools to the brands on understanding the internationalization reasons and approach, as well as explaining Farfetch business model, and the advantages it can bring to them, at the same time of a general market trend analysis for Farfecth.

Illegitimate identity in the middle of an ideological crisis and tensions in the consumption network: a study on why plus-size fashion brands are illegitimate fashion elements

O presente trabalho explora as causas pelas quais o campo da moda plus size carece de legitimidade com as consumidoras plus size. Eu explorei o assunto em três artigos. No primeiro, eu estudo o processo de legitimação de um novo mercado emergente, o mercado da moda plus size brasileira e os desafios para sua a institucionalização. Eu conduzi dezessete entrevistas com consumidoras plus size, uma netnografia em quatro blogs de moda plus size brasileiros e analisei de maneira semiótica um site que vende roupas de moda plus size. Meus resultados indicam que, apesar de ter atores legítimos que promovem essas marcas de moda plus size, o campo da moda plus size ainda é percebido como uma versão vergonhosa do campo da moda. Defendo aqui que o fato de uma das lógicas de campo da moda plus size ser estigma, acaba afetando os projetos identitários das consumidoras de maneira depreciativa, de forma elas não se envolvem em práticas de capital cultural que ocorrem dentro do campo da moda plus size. No segundo artigo, eu conduzi uma introspecção genealógica em que eu pesquisei questões de identidade. Como uma mulher (que se assume ) plus size, eu imaginei que seria relevante para olhar para dentro de mim mesma, a fim de explorar a forma como a minha identidade liga-se com a rede semiótica-material que me rodeia em termos de moda, alimentos e outros elementos. Meus dados vieram tanto de técnicas de introspecção simultâneas, quanto retrospectivas. Em termos teóricos, eu usei a ideia de ―assemblages‖ e eu foquei minha análise tanto nos aspectos materiais da minha rede de consumo, quanto na estabilidade da rede. As consequências da minha assemblage estão ligadas a uma gestão de qualidade total da minha identidade, tanto online como off-line, refletidas em práticas de consumo que se conectam à ideia de uma lógica de consumo bulímica em que o consumo de alimentos e gestão corpo estão interligadas. Por fim, no meu terceiro artigo, eu explorei o conceito de identidade a partir do consumo da moda feminina plus size. Foram feitas catorze entrevistas fenomenológicas, cujos dados foram analisados a partir de uma perspectiva hermenêutica. Três categorias temáticas emergiram da análise de dados: a construção da identidade por meio da moda, elementos de identidade plus size e estratégias criativas para lidar com a falta de produtos para mulheres plus size no varejo. Entre os principais resultados, destacam-se a forma como o termo plus size atua como estigma, influenciando projetos de identidade das consumidoras, o papel do varejo no processo de estigmatização e a saga épica de compras, que envolve um "mercado negro", com a participação de vendedores. Eu concluo discutindo o papel da identidade na instabilidade do campo da moda plus size.

As linguagens corporais e suas implicações nas práticas pedagógicas: brinquedos, brincadeiras, jogos, tecnologias, consumo e modismos

O item não apresenta o texto completo, para aquisição do livro na íntegra você poderá acessar a Editora da UFSCar por meio do link: www.editora.ufscar.br

Gestão da cadeia de suprimento e vantagem competitiva: uma análise em setores industriais a partir da visão relacional

This work has as its main purpose to investigate the contribution of supply chain management in order to obtain competitive advantage by companies from the textile industry and from Ceará footwear industry, focusing its analysis mainly in the interorganizational relations (dyadic). For this, the theoretical referential contemplates different explanatory streams of the competitive advantage, detaching the relational perception of the resources theory, as well as, the main presuppositions of the supply chain management which culminates with the development of an analysis sample that runs the empirical study; the one which considers an expanded purpose of the supply chain which includes the government and the abetment institutions as institutional environment representatives. Besides supply chain management consideration as a competitive advantage source, the work also tried to identify other possible competitive advantage sources for the companies of the investigated sectors. It represents a study of multiple interpretive cases, having four cases as a total; meaning two cases in each one of the sectors, which used as a primary data collecting instrument a semi-structured interview schedule. Different methods were used for the data analysis, the content analysis and the constant comparison methods, the analytical procedure originated from the grounded theory research strategy, which were applied the Atlas/ti software recourse. Considering the theoretical referential and the used analysis sample, four basic categories of the work were defined, including its respective proprieties and dimensions: (1) characteristics concerning to the relationship with the supplier; (2) the company relations with the government; (3) the company relations with the abetment institutions and; (4) obtaining sources of competitive advantage. In general, the applied research in the footwear sector revealed that in the relationships of the researched companies related to its suppliers, there is a predominance of the partnership system and the main presuppositions of the supply chain management are applied which contributes for the acquisition of the relational competitive advantage; while in the textile sector, only some of these presuppositions are applied, with little contribution for the relational competitive advantage. The main resource which was accessed by the companies in both sectors through its relationships with the government and the abetment institutions are the tax incentives which, for the footwear companies, contribute for the acquisition of the temporary competitive advantage in relation to the contestants who do not own productive installations in the Northeast region, it also conducts to a competitive parity situation in relation to the contestants who own productive installations in the Northeast region and to the external market contestants; while for the companies of the textile sector, the tax incentives run the companies to a competitive parity situation in relation to its contestants. Furthermore, the investigated companies from the two sectors possess acquisition sources of the competitive advantage which collimate with different explanatory streams (industrial analysis, resources theory, Austrian school and the dynamic capabilities theory), although there is a predominance of the product innovation as a competitive advantage source in both sectors, due to the bond of these with the fashion tendencies

Estudos de Durabilidade Frente ao Ataque Ácido de Compósitos Portland-Polímero para Cimentação de Poços de Petróleo

Portland-polymers composites are promising candidates to be used as cementing material in Northeastern oil wells of Brazil containing heavy oils submitted to steam injection. In this way, it is necessary to evaluate its degradation in the commonly acidizind agents. In addition, to identify how aggressive are the different hostile environments it is an important contribution on the decision of the acidic systems to be used in. It was investigated the performance of the Portland-polymer composites using powdered polyurethane, aqueous polyurethane, rubber tire residues and a biopolymer, those were reinforced with polished carbon steel SAE 1045 to make the electrochemical measurements. HCl 15,0 %, HCl 6,0 % + HF 1,5 % (soft mud acid), HCl 12,0 % + HF 3,0 % (regular mud acid) and HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % were used as degrading environment and electrolytes. The more aggressive acid solution to the plain Portland hardened cement paste was the regular mud acid, that showed loss of weight around 23.0 %, followed by the soft mud acid, the showed 11.0 %, 15.0 % HCl with 7,0 % and, at last the 10.0 % HAc plus HF 1.5 % with just 1.0 %. The powdered polyurethane-composite and the aqueous polyurethane one showed larger durability, with reduction around 87.0 % on the loss of weight in regular mud acid. The acid attack is superficial and it occurs as an action layer, where the degraded layer is responsible for the decrease on the kinetic of the degrading process. This behavior can be seen mainly on the Portland- aqueous polyurethane composite, because the degraded layer is impregnated with chemically modified polymer. The fact of the acid attack does not have influence on the compressive strength or fratography of the samples, in a general way, confirms that theory. The mechanism of the efficiency of the Portland-polymers composites subjected to acid attack is due to decreased porosity and permeability related with the plain Portland paste, minor quantity of Ca+2, element preferentially leached to the acidic solution, wave effect and to substitute part of the degrading bulk for the polymeric one. The electrolyte HAc 10 % + HF 1,5 % was the least aggressive one to the external corrosion of the casing, showing open circuit potentials around +250 mV compared to -130 mV to the simulated pore solution to the first 24 hours immersion. This behavior has been performed for two months at least. Similar corrosion rates were showed between both of the electrolytes, around 0.01 μA.cm-2. Total impedance values, insipient arcs and big polarization resistance capacitive arcs on the Nyquist plots, indicating passivity process, confirm its efficiency. In this way, Portlandpolymers composites are possible solutions to be succeed applied to oilwell cementing concomitant submitted to steam injection and acidizing operation and the HAc 10,0 % + HF 1,5 % is the less aggressive solution to the external corrosion of the casing

Estudo da viabilidade do sistema LZAS para uso como selante de PaCOS

Cells the solid oxide fuel are systems capable to directly convert energy of a chemical reaction into electric energy in clean, quiet way and if its components in the solid state differentiate of excessively the techniques for having all. Its more common geometric configurations are: the tubular one and to glide. Geometry to glide beyond the usual components (anode, cathode and electrolyte) needs interconnect and sealant. E the search for materials adjusted for these components is currently the biggest challenge found for the production of the cells. The sealants need to present chemical stability in high temperatures, to provoke electric isolation, to have coefficient of compatible thermal expansion with the excessively component ones. For presenting these characteristics the glass-ceramics materials are recommended for the application. In this work the study of the partial substitution of the ZrO2 for the Al2O3 in system LZS became it aiming at the formation of system LZAS, this with the addition of natural spodumene with 10, 20 and 30% in mass. The compositions had been casting to a temperature of 1500°C and later quickly cooled with the objective to continue amorphous. Each composition was worn out for attainment of a dust with average diameter of approximately 3μm and characterized by the techniques of DRX, FRX, MEV, dilatometric analysis and particle size analysis. Later the samples had been conformed and treated thermally with temperatures in the interval between 700-1000 °C, with platform of 10 minutes and 1 hour. The analyses for the treated samples had been: dilatometric analysis, DRX, FRX, electrical conductivity and tack. The results point with respect to the viability of the use of system LZAS for use as sealant a time that had presented good results as isolating electric, they had adhered to a material with similar α of the components of a SOFC and had presented steady crystalline phases

Impacto de quatro substratos e parcelamento da fertirrigação na produção de tomate sob cultivo protegido

Analisou-se a produção do tomateiro, híbrido longa vida Carmen, cultivado em quatro substratos, com fertirrigação semanal e duas vezes por semana. O delineamento experimental utilizado foi blocos casualizados, em esquema fatorial 4 x 2 (quatro substratos e duas formas de fertirrigação), em quatro repetições. Os substratos testados foram: S1 = areia fina (0,250 - 0,105 mm); S2 = 1/2 areia fina + 1/2 bagaço de cana-de-açúcar; S3 = 1/2 areia fina + 1/2 casca de amendoim moída (passada em peneira com abertura de 7 x 18 mm) e S4 = 1/3 areia fina + 1/3 bagaço de cana-de-açúcar + 1/3 casca de amendoim moída. As fertirrigações avaliadas foram: F1 = fertirrigação realizada uma vez por semana, com aplicação da quantidade total de nutrientes e, F2 = fertirrigação realizada duas vezes por semana, com aplicação da metade da quantidade total de nutrientes, demandada por semana, em cada vez. A quantidade de nutrientes, em mg L-1, fornecida por meio de fertirrigação, foi: 200 de nitrogênio, 60 de fósforo, 350 de potássio, 206 de cálcio, 60 de magnésio, 150 de enxofre, 0,50 de boro, 0,10 de cobre, 2 de ferro, 0,75 de manganês, 0,10 de zinco e 0,01 de molibdênio. A dotação hídrica foi realizada em função dos dados obtidos em um tanque classe A, localizado no centro da casa de vegetação. Avaliou-se a altura das plantas, o número de cachos e de frutos por planta, o peso individual do fruto e a produção por planta. Os dados foram submetidos à análise de variância e as médias foram comparadas pelo teste de Tukey, ao nível de 5% de probabilidade. Verificou-se que a fertirrigação realizada duas vezes por semana, suprindo a demanda total de nutrientes da semana, resultou em consideráveis melhorias de produção. Os substratos utilizados, com exceção do substrato S2, apresentaram potencial de uso para o cultivo do tomateiro em ambiente protegido.

O conhecimento e as atitudes das famílias de pacientes em tratamento em tuberculose na atenção primária à saúde

This study thus sought to examine knowledge about TB and attitudes of patients families in disease treatment in Primary Health Care in Natal- RN. To this end, a cross-sectional study was undertaken through a questionnaire with families of patients diagnosed with TB and follow up by APS from Natal. The study subjects were recruited from a non-probabilistic way, by convenience, contemplating a sample of 50 families. Among the criteria considered for inclusion of subjects, older than 18 years were considered, as well as residing with the TB patient and in Natal and availability to participate in the research. Data collection was performed by own researcher and an assistant, through a questionnaire with families of patients diagnosed with TB following the double independent digitalization of data. In the analytical phase, was initially conducted an exploratory phase and univariate data, with description of the position measurements (mean, median, mode) and dispersion (confidence interval and standard deviation). In bivariate analysis, it was conducted an intersection of dependent variables of knowledge e and changes of attitude dichotomous, with each of the independent variables, using contingency tables and calculating the chi-square test and, when appropriate, the Fisher exact test. In 2x2 tables, calculated the odds ratio (OR) with confidence intervals of 95% (95% CI). From the selected sample, 43 (86%) subjects were female, average age and median respectively of 46.64 and 46.50 years, 25 (50%) had elementary school. The knowledge expressed by family members about TB was considered satisfactory. However, the lack of interest of the family (54%) in seeking information about tuberculosis; the wrong way of reply in relation to the organism causing the disease (64%); the water content (62%) and contaminated food (54% ) as a means of spreading TB was a weakness identified in the investigation. Regarding the time of transmission, 90% of respondents indicated not know or answered wrong. From investigated independent variables, only two were associated with lack of knowledge of TB, and they did not have religion (OR: 0.146, 95% CI: 0.027 to 0.800) and income below 1, 7 minimum wages (OR: 0.155, 95% CI: 0.029 to 0.813). Thus they seem to exercise a protective effect on this outcome. As for the changes in attitude, most of the found variables had no association with statistical significance, except no internet access (OR: 0.212, 95% CI: 0,048-0, 935). Most attitudes were positive in relation to TB patient. Results have demonstrated weaknesses in TB care, which has taken on a more individual and welfare character. Data not only express health outcomes produced by health services, but also the political and social situation of the families that are affected by TB

Análise de Argamassas Com Substituição Parcial do Cimento Portland Por Cinza Residual de Lenha de Algaroba

With the increase in cement consumption, it has quickly become one of the inputs most consumed by mankind over the last century. This has caused an increase in CO2 emissions, as cement production releases large quantities of this gas into the atmosphere. Adding this fact to the growing consciousness of environmental preservation, it has led to a search for alternatives to cement to complement its derivatives, in the form of waste materials like the ashes. This research aimed to analyze the properties of mortars in fresh and hardened state with partial replacement of Portland cement by residual algaroba wood ash (CRLA) potteries produced by the state of Rio Grande do Norte. The CRLA was collected and sieved, where part of it was ground and characterized in comparison with that just sifted, being characterized according to its chemical composition, grain size, fineness, density, bulk density and index of pozzolanic activity. It was found that the wood ash does not act as pozzolan, and grinding it has not changed its characteristics compared to those just sifted, not justifying its use. Two traces were adopted for this research: 1:3 (cement: fine sand) and 1:2:8 (cement: hydrated lime: medium sand); both in volume, using as materials the CRLA just sifted, CP II F-32 Portland cement, CH-I hydrated lime, river sand and water from the local utility. For each trace were adopted six percentages of partial replacement of cement for wood ash: 0% (control) 5%, 7%, 10%, 12% and 15%. In the fresh state, the mortars were tested towards their consistency index and mass density. In the hardened state, they were tested towards their tensile strength in bending, compressive strength and tensile adhesion strength, and its mass density in the hardened state. The mortar was also analyzed by scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Furthermore, it was classified according to NBR 13281 (2005). The results showed that up to a content of 5% substitution and for both traces, the residual algaroba wood ash can replace Portland cement without compromising the mortars microstructure and its fresh and hardened state

Avaliação econômica do uso da restrição alimentar qualitativa para suínos com elevado peso de abate

O objetivo neste trabalho foi avaliar economicamente o uso da restrição alimentar qualitativa para suínos machos castrados em terminação sobre o desempenho e as características de carcaça de 60 animais. Dez suínos foram abatidos no início da fase experimental (89,0 ± 4,2 kg) e os demais, alimentados com rações contendo cinco níveis de restrição nutricional qualitativa (0, 5, 10, 15 e 20%), obtidas pela inclusão de casca de arroz finamente moída, até o final do experimento (127,8 ± 2,9 kg). Foram calculados os custos com alimentação durante o período experimental (R$alimento) e estimados os valores de receita bruta de cada carcaça de animais abatidos aos 128 kg (RBsuíno128kg) ou no início do experimento (RBmédia_suíno89kg). A partir destes três dados, foi calculado o resultado líquido (RL) do uso das dietas experimentais (RL = RBsuíno128kg - RBmédia_suíno89kg - R$alimento). Também foram analisadas as variações mensais dos preços do milho, do farelo de soja e do suíno, sendo determinado o preço do milho como o fator de maior impacto sobre a lucratividade do uso da restrição qualitativa. A equação de predição da probabilidade de aumento linear do resultado líquido pelo uso da restrição qualitativa foi determinada em função dos diferentes preços do milho - PM (valor de P RL = 0,392 - 0,625PM, R² = 0,73). Efeito significativo foi observado para preços do milho de cerca de quatro vezes ou mais acima do custo da casca de arroz. Assim, conclui-se que a viabilidade do uso da restrição qualitativa, até o nível de 20%, depende do cenário econômico, mas sobretudo do preço do milho, o principal ingrediente substituído nas rações ao empregar-se a restrição qualitativa, e de sua relação com o custo do resíduo utilizado para diluição energética.

Casal nacional: significações do corpo e do figurino no telejornalismo

The main objective of this study is to investigate the meanings of body and costume as essential components of television journalists aesthetic discourse, as exemplified by the presenters of Jornal Nacional, from Rede Globo. The study is inspired on the paths proposed by semiotics, and combines this approach with other techniques of scientific investigation to identify the meanings of this non-verbal communication form. For that, this work uses the concept of communication proposed by the Palo Alto School s authors, more specifically the concept of Watzlawick et al. (2005), which understands communication like relation and inherent of human beings. The precepts of complex thought and the hologramatic principle of Morin (1990), which value the union and the need to connect the knowledge of elements or parts to that of the systems these parts constitute, is also present in the thinking that guides the work. Throughout the chapters, we elucidate our understanding of body and television as media, and fashion and television journalism as languages. This work approaches a televisual history of Jornal Nacional in order to better understand the aesthetic proposed by television news over time, its presenters and costumes. The elements that are part of the televisual language s expression and content are addressed so that we can better understand the importance of body and presenters costume in this context. Finally, we conduct an analysis of the meanings of television journalism presenters body and costume through their stereotypes, their integration into the fashion cycle and also into the televisual analysis of the most important costume elements of Jornal Nacional s presenter couple: colors, models and accessories. We thus seek to strengthen the understanding of the wardrobe inseparable from the body as communication and detail some of their production understanding processes. The women historical role in brazilian television journalism, as well as masculinization of TV journalism environment are important elements to contextualize televisual language thinking in contemporary society. The investigation covers the origins, concepts, proposals, stereotypes, prejudices, reproductions, naturalizations and reinterpretation of the body and the costume of the presenters through time and the relationship between body, fashion and communication