A correlation study of subjective sensorial evaluation and objective softness measurement of wool fabrics

Comfort is one of the most important aspects of clothing, especially for next-to-skin garments such as shirts and trousers for summer. Sensorial comfort has a strong relationship with both the mechanical and surface properties of apparel fabric. A comfortable textile material should have properties of softness, smooth surface or texture, be pleasant to touch and very flexible. When assessing fabric handle subjectively, the assessor usually strokes the fabric surface with one or several fingers and squash the fabric gently in hand. Thus, the perception of such handle includes complex parameters of compression, tactile sensation and textural effect. In this work, we attempted to use a simple technique of objectively evaluating fabric softness related properties, by measuring the force required to pull a fabric strip through a series of parallel pins (the pulling force). We also subjectively rated the fabric handle. The correlation analysis showed very good agreement between the fabric pulling force and subjective hand rating.

Balancing buildings and occupants - a holistic approach to thermal comfort and greenhouse gas emissions in mixed mode offices

This paper describes a holistic approach to comfort and greenhouse gas emissions in mixed mode offices. It is based on parametric studies for a typical cellular office in the Mediterranean climate of Athens, Greece, using building simulation.

Considered parameters are the influence of different building design, varying occupant behaviour and internal heat loads, as well as of an exceptionally hot summer. Additionally, the performance of a cooling strategy following the comfort limits according to the EN 15251 adaptive model is compared with the common fixed cooling set point 22°C.

The performance of mixed mode offices is evaluated regarding thermal comfort, daylight autonomy and related greenhouse gas emissions. Results indicate strategies to improve sustainability in mixed mode offices in Athens, by balancing the influencing parameters.

Measurement and solutions to thermal comfort, CO2 and ventilation rates in schools

An Australian research facility, conducted a study on several different school classrooms in regards to their thermal comfort, CO2 levels, air temperature stratification and ventilation rates in a selection of Victorian (Melbourne, Australia) schools during a winter season. A brief literature review reveals similar IAQ problems elsewhere (outside Australia) and suggests several HVAC concepts that provide potential solutions. Our intention is to highlight particular IAQ discrepancies in existing school classroom design resulting from these case study measurements, suggesting construction and mechanical operational conditioning improvements.In particular this research confirms the urgency and necessity of addressing IAQ problems in schools, world wide. Our results of the Australian school classroom measurements are similar to other parts of the world, indicating that CO2 levels, ventilation rates and air temperatures are non-compliant with the standards.

The Wool ComfortMeter and the Wool HandleMeter, new opportunities for wool

Two instruments have been developed by the Sheep CRC that provide the tools for a new standard in comfort and handle for the next generation of next-to-skin wool knitwear. The Wool ComfortMeter and Wool HandleMeter provide a rapid, accurate and objective measure of two important characteristics of wool knitwear that are currently determined by subjective assessment. The Wool HandleMeter allows the prediction of a set of handle attribute values that can quantify the hand feel of a lightweight jersey fabric. The instrument uses the principle of pushing a fabric sample through a ring. The force displacement curve associated with the fabric test is characterised and used to define each fabric. These values were then compared to the average handle values, as determined by a group of experts, of a large set of lightweight knitted fabrics. Algorithms were developed that enable the instrument to more accurately predict each of seven handle attributes than an individual expert. The Wool ComfortMeter provides a measure of the fibres that are protruding from the surface of the fabric that are responsible for the itchy sensation caused by some knitwear. The results from the instrument have been compared to the results from extensive wearer trials to provide an understanding of the relationship between the instrument value and the comfort perceptions of wearers. The results have shown a very clear relationship between the instrument and wearer trials.

Relationships between wearer assessment and the instrumental measurement of the handle and prickle of knitted wool fabrics

The relationships between wearer-assessed comfort and objectively measured comfort and handle parameters were investigated using 19 pure wool single jersey garments made of single ply yarns. Wearer trials were used to determine prickle discomfort, and whether wearers “liked” the garments. Fabrics then were objectively evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes; and the Wool ComfortMeter (WCM), to predict a wearer's perception of fabric-evoked prickle. Wearer responses and the relationships within and between objective measurements and the effect of fibre, yarn and fabrics attributes were analysed by general linear modelling. Mean fibre diameter, fibre diameter coefficient of variation, yarn count, fabric thickness, fabric density, fabric mass per unit area and decatising affected one or more handle parameters. The best model for predicting wearer prickle discomfort accounted for 90.9% of the variance and included only terms for the WCM and WCM2. The WCM was a good predictor whereas mean fibre diameter was a poor predictor of whether wearers “liked” garments. Wearer assessment of prickle and whether or not wearers “liked” fabrics were independent of fabric handle assessment. The results indicate that the handle and comfort properties of lightweight, wool jersey fabrics can be quantified accurately using the Wool HandleMeter and the Wool ComfortMeter. For fabric handle, fibre and yarn characteristics were less important than changes in the properties of the fabric.

Effects of variation in wool fiber curvature and yarn hairiness on sensorial assessment of knitted fabrics

Previous investigations have shown that prickle discomfort sensations of wool fabrics are primarily determined by the mean fiber diameter of the wool. It is also known that differences in wool fiber curvature (crimp) affect softness of handle of greasy wool and of wool textiles. In a replicated experiment, we investigated if wearers could detect the effect of using 17 µm superfine wool of low (74°/mm) or high (114°/mm) fiber curvature, and when the wools were blended with 17 µm cashmere (fiber curvature 49°/mm) in differing proportions, on four comfort sensations. Eight single jersey knitted fabrics were assessed under a controlled protocol using forearm sleeves made of the test fabric and a control fabric. Data (37 sensorial assessments of high curvature wool fabrics; 38 sensorial assessments of low curvature wool fabrics) were analyzed using linear mixed model analysis (restricted maximum likelihood), which included fixed effects for wool type and blend ratio and a random effect for participant. The use of a control sleeve fabric reduced variance due to participant effects by providing an anchor for each sensation over time. Wool fiber curvature affected participant assessment of breathability, comfort, feel after exercise (damp/dry) and skin feel (prickly/soft), with preferred values associated with high curvature (crimp) superfine wool. Increasing the proportion of cashmere in fabrics increased skin feel (better assessed softness). Skin feel was strongly associated with the evaluation of the fabrics by the Wool ComfortMeter and with increasing hairiness of yarns.

Unusual Yang-Lee edge singularity in the one-dimensional axial-next-to-nearest-neighbor Ising model

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

Ventilatory responses to skin extract in catfish

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Subtractive renormalization of the next-to-leading order NN interaction

The subtracted kernel method is implemented recursively to solve scattering equations for the S-1(0) phase-shifts considering the leading and the next-to-leading order NN interaction.

Search for Next-to-Minimal Supersymmetric Higgs Bosons in the h -> aa ->mu mu mu mu, mu mu tau tau Channels Using pp Collisions at s=1.96 TeV

Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Científico e Tecnológico (CNPq)

From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly products with improved skin fat levels

Spent coffee grounds (SCG), which are the residue obtained from the treatment of coffee with hot water or steam, can be used for industrial applications, due to the high content in lipids. The cosmetic products might be a suitable application for these types of residues because the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) are largely dependent on the intactness of the lipid lamellae that surrounds the corneocytes. The purpose of this work was to assess the feasibility of using the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide in the development of new cosmetic formulations with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. The use of spent coffee lipid extract in cosmetic industry seems to be a suitable approach to recycle the wastes from coffee industry. Emulsion containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG (SpentCofOil cream) presented promising characteristics in the improvement of sebum skin levels with a good acceptance by consumers when compared to an emulsion containing 10% w/w of green coffee oil (GreenCofOil cream) and a placebo without coffee oil (NoCofOil cream). Practical applications: In this work, the authors develop and characterize a cream containing 10% of the lipid fraction of SCG extracted with supercritical carbon dioxide with improved skin lipids (sebum) and hydration. © 2013 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.

Use of nonlinear asymmetrical shock absorber to improve comfort on passenger vehicles

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Ventilatory responses to skin extract in catfish

The ventilation rate (VR) of an ostariophysan fish, the speckled catfish Pseudoplaty - stoma coruscans, exposed to a chemical alarm cue was measured in the present study in multiple contexts. The influence of the extraction techniques, skin donor food intake and quantity of the alarm cue (skin extract) on this autonomic response was considered. Overall, the catfish VR decreased significantly when exposed to the skin extract (chemical alarm cue) compared with exposure to distilled water (control). No effect of the extraction technique was found. Increasing doses of the skin extract induced a VR reduction of similar magnitude. However, extract obtained from daily-fed fish induced a significant decrease in the VR, whereas extract obtained from foodrestricted fish did not induce any change in the VR. Thus, food intake was associated with the production of a more easily recognizable alarm cue in the speckled catfish. Interestingly, this effect was not related to differences in the number of club cells in the donor catfish epidermis. Dashing, or rapid swimming, a normal component of the alarm response in fish, including this catfish species, was not observed here, and hypoventilation was always associated with no swimming reaction. Together, these results suggest that hypoventilation is a reaction to a chemical alarm cue, likely resulting in improved crypsis, causing the fish to become less easily perceived by a potential predator that usually strikes prey in response to movement.