A spatially explicit life cycle inventory of the global textile chain

Life cycle analyses (LCA) approaches require adaptation to reflect the increasing delocalization of production to emerging countries. This work addresses this challenge by establishing a country-level, spatially explicit life cycle inventory (LCI). This study comprises three separate dimensions. The first dimension is spatial: processes and emissions are allocated to the country in which they take place and modeled to take into account local factors. Emerging economies China and India are the location of production, the consumption occurs in Germany, an Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development country. The second dimension is the product level: we consider two distinct textile garments, a cotton T-shirt and a polyester jacket, in order to highlight potential differences in the production and use phases. The third dimension is the inventory composition: we track CO2, SO2, NO (x), and particulates, four major atmospheric pollutants, as well as energy use. This third dimension enriches the analysis of the spatial differentiation (first dimension) and distinct products (second dimension). We describe the textile production and use processes and define a functional unit for a garment. We then model important processes using a hierarchy of preferential data sources. We place special emphasis on the modeling of the principal local energy processes: electricity and transport in emerging countries. The spatially explicit inventory is disaggregated by country of location of the emissions and analyzed according to the dimensions of the study: location, product, and pollutant. The inventory shows striking differences between the two products considered as well as between the different pollutants considered. For the T-shirt, over 70% of the energy use and CO2 emissions occur in the consuming country, whereas for the jacket, more than 70% occur in the producing country. This reversal of proportions is due to differences in the use phase of the garments. For SO2, in contrast, over two thirds of the emissions occur in the country of production for both T-shirt and jacket. The difference in emission patterns between CO2 and SO2 is due to local electricity processes, justifying our emphasis on local energy infrastructure. The complexity of considering differences in location, product, and pollutant is rewarded by a much richer understanding of a global production-consumption chain. The inclusion of two different products in the LCI highlights the importance of the definition of a product's functional unit in the analysis and implications of results. Several use-phase scenarios demonstrate the importance of consumer behavior over equipment efficiency. The spatial emission patterns of the different pollutants allow us to understand the role of various energy infrastructure elements. The emission patterns furthermore inform the debate on the Environmental Kuznets Curve, which applies only to pollutants which can be easily filtered and does not take into account the effects of production displacement. We also discuss the appropriateness and limitations of applying the LCA methodology in a global context, especially in developing countries. Our spatial LCI method yields important insights in the quantity and pattern of emissions due to different product life cycle stages, dependent on the local technology, emphasizing the importance of consumer behavior. From a life cycle perspective, consumer education promoting air-drying and cool washing is more important than efficient appliances. Spatial LCI with country-specific data is a promising method, necessary for the challenges of globalized production-consumption chains. We recommend inventory reporting of final energy forms, such as electricity, and modular LCA databases, which would allow the easy modification of underlying energy infrastructure.

What are the success factors for Spanish textile firms? An exploratory multiple-case study

The objective of this article is to identify differential traits of successful SMEs in comparison to average SME firms in the textile and clothing sector. The method used is the multiple case-study of 12 firms based on qualitative and quantitative data obtained by means of in-depth interviews. Building on recent academic literature, we use four main dimensions that may explain success: i) knowledge generation (R&D) and acquisition; ii) innovation activity; iii) product and market characteristics and iv) strategic characteristics. Our results indicate that a higher R&D intensity and knowledge acquisition do not explain success. The main differential characteristic is that successful firms have a higher level of innovation activity, since innovation is their strategic priority, being a result of perceiving the key success factors of their markets differently. From the analysis it also follows that the prevalent strategy of successful firms is the niche strategy, with a demand pull focus, and a high proximity to the customer

Synthesis and characterization of Fe(III)-doped ceramic membranes of titanium dioxide and its application in photoelectrocatalysis of a textile dye

Pure and Fe(III)-doped TiO2 suspensions were prepared by the sol gel method with the use of titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OPri)4) as precursor material. The properties of doped materials were compared to TiO2 properties based on the characterization by thermal analysis (TG-DTA and DSC), X-ray powder diffractometry and spectroscopy measurements (FTIR). Both undoped and doped TiO2 suspensions were used to coat metallic substrate as a mean to make thin-film electrodes. Thermal treatment of the precursors at 400ºC for 2 h in air resulted in the formation of nanocrystalline anatase TiO2. The thin-film electrodes were tested with respect to their photocatalytic performance for degradation of a textile dye in aqueous solution. The plain TiO2 remains as the best catalyst at the conditions used in this report.

Finnish buyers’ perceptions of Indian textile and clothing suppliers: Country of origin in focus

Choosing the right supplier is crucial for long-term business prospects and profitability. Thus organizational buyers are naturally very interested in how they can select the right supplier for their needs. Likewise, suppliers are interested in knowing how their customers make purchasing decisions in order to effectively sell and market to them. From the point of view of the textile and clothing (T&C) industry, regulatory changes and increasing low-cost and globalization pressures have led to the rise of low-cost production locations India and China as the world’s largest T&C producers. This thesis will examine T&C trade between Finland and India specifically in the context of non-industrial T&C products. Its main research problem asks: what perceptions do Finnish T&C industry buyers hold of India and Indian suppliers? B2B buyers use various supplier selection models and criteria in making their purchase decisions. A significant amount of research has been done into supplier selection practices, and in the context of international trade, country of origin (COO) perceptions specifically have garnered much attention. This thesis uses a mixed methods approach (online questionnaire and in-depth interviews) to evaluate Finnish T&C buyers’ supplier selection criteria, COO perceptions of India and experiences of Indian suppliers. It was found that the most important supplier selection criteria used by Finnish T&C buyers are quality, reliability and cost. COO perceptions were not found to be influential in purchasing process. Indian T&C suppliers’ strengths were found to be low cost, flexibility and a history of traditional T&C expertise. Their weaknesses include product quality and unreliable delivery times. Overall, the main challenges that need to be overcome by Indian T&C companies are logistical difficulties and the cost vs. quality trade-off. Despite positive perceptions of India for cost, the overall value offered by Indian T&C products was perceived to be low due to poor quality. Unreliable delivery time experiences also affected buyer’s reliability perceptions of Indian suppliers. The main limiting factors of this thesis relate to the small sample size used in the research. This limits the generalizability of results and the ability to evaluate the reliability and validity of some of the research instruments.

Incorporating Sustainability in Global Sourcing Process, Industry Focus- Apparel / Textile

This is a Master’s thesis research, which mainly aims at identifying the sustainability issues in sourcing process and to identify the core competencies in sourcing process through triple bottom line adaptation. The focus of this thesis is on apparel industry’s sourcing process. The purpose of this thesis is to examine global apparel industry’s reality in their sourcing process and how buyers-suppliers are cooperating with their sourcing process to incorporate sustainability. Other goal of this research paper is to provide recommendation for sustainable sourcing process for companies and how the stakeholders can be benefitted by sustainable sourcing. The literature review part of this paper has presented the research gaps from the earlier researches along with the key concepts, academic purposes and key definitions. Theoretical framework chapter has focused on global sourcing strategies and firm’s competencies and sustainable strategies. From the theoretical framework, author has presented essential theory which establishes the link between research questions and proposed hypotheses. Main results and findings have been presented in empirical findings and in data analysis chapter. This study is an exploratory research followed by deductive method and primary data has been used to evaluate the current situation of apparel industry; which will assist to build the recommendation model. Primary data has been collected through online questionnaires and secondary data has used to cover the literature and theoretical parts. Therefore, the potential outcome of this paper will display the importance of sustainable sourcing from academic point of view and also from the business perspective. As a final point, this paper has followed the research objectives and has generated some new directions for further studies.

Perceptions of green branding and identity building amongst small Finnish textile producers

The textile industry is one of the most polluting industries in the world. The amount of air and water pollution it causes puts a burden on the environment. There are companies who have taken the environmental and social aspects into account in the their production and chosen to operate in a green manner. This thesis studies how the phenomenon of green branding is seen from the perspectives of small Finnish textile companies. The theory used in this thesis has to do with green branding and identity building. The theory is used to analyze the results of the empirical findings. The main research question that the thesis aims to answer is how green branding is perceived within the Finnish textile industry. In order to answer the main research question, empirical data was collected from five relevant companies within the Finnish textile industry. The companies interviewed for the study were WST, Saana ja Olli, RCM, R-collection and Tiensivu. The study was conducted as a multiple case based study where multiple experts from green companies were interviewed. The experts were all owners or employees of companies that have a so-called green brand identity. The data was collected through semi-structured interviews, where the relevant experts from each company were interviewed either by themselves, in pairs or in groups. The data that was collected for this study was primary data, and the results of the study are mainly based on the experiences and opinions of the experts interviewed. The data collected does not cover the entire green textile industry within Finland, but study does however give a fairly comprehensive view of the phenomenon, as the textile industry in Finland is quite concise. The general findings of the study show that all experts from the companies interviewed agreed that a green brand identity does benefit their company in one way or the other. The findings also show contradictions with the older theory (eg. Charter et al. 1999, Pickett et al. 1995), and perhaps give a more modern view of the thoughts within the industry.

Le role de la grappe industrielle quebecoise de la mode et du textile sur l'impact du libre-echange Canada-Etats-Unis-Mexique.

Rapport de recherche

Argentina’s Worker-Recovered Factories : strategies and survival

Les usines récupérées par les ouvriers en Argentine sont devenues un mouvement social emblématique symbolisant l'un des aspects de la révolte sociale entourant la crise économique de 2001-2002. Les usines récupérées sont des entreprises abandonnées par leurs propriétaires originaux ou déclarées faillite, laissant derrières elles des salaires et des dettes impayés. Par conséquence, les ouvriers ont commencé à récupérer leurs usines; reprenant la production sans leurs anciens patrons, sous, et au profit de la gestion collective des ouvriers. Le mouvement est remarquable pour sa rémunération égalitaire et sa gestion horizontale. Ce travail examine la continuité des usines récupérées et ceci à travers l'évolution sociale, politique et économique du paysage de l'Argentine. Il évalue également l'impact du mouvement en tant que défi aux modes économiques de production hégémoniques et orientés vers le marché. En supposant que l'avenir du mouvement dépend de deux ensembles de facteurs, le rapport analyse les facteurs internes à travers le prisme de la théorie de mobilisation des ressources, ainsi que les facteurs externes à travers la perspective de la théorie de la structure de l'opportunité politique. Le travail conclut que la situation actuelle se trouve dans une impasse dans laquelle le mouvement a gagné l'acceptation institutionnelle, mais a échoué d'effectuer le changement structurel favorisant ses pratiques et garantissant la sécurité à long terme. Il argumente que le mouvement doit consolider certains aspects combatifs. Il doit consolider sa nouvelle identité en tant que mouvement social et forger des alliances stratégiques et tactiques tout en préservant son autonomie.

Codes de conduite et droit d'association : une étude exploratoire du secteur du textile

Avec la globalisation de l’économie, l’entreprise traditionnelle est devenue un réseau global de producteurs liés par des contrats. À la suite de certains abus commis par les entreprises multinationales, notamment en ce qui concerne les droits fondamentaux des travailleurs, les entreprises et la société civile ont développé des mécanismes de régulation privés dont les codes de conduite privés. La présente étude cherche à déterminer quels pouvaient être les véritables destinataires des codes de conduite : les travailleurs du pays d’origine de l’entreprise (généralement situés dans un pays développé) ou les travailleurs des pays de production (généralement situés dans des pays en développement). À cette fin, le mémoire compare le contenu des codes de conduite de Nike, de Gap et de Levi-Strauss sur ce sujet avec les observations de l’Organisation internationale du travail pour les travailleurs des États-Unis, de l’Inde et du Bangladesh. Certains écarts entre les protections accordées par les codes et les besoins des travailleurs sont ainsi identifiés. Dans la dernière partie du mémoire, la question d’étude est élargie afin d’examiner si les codes ne seraient pas destinés à des personnes autres que les travailleurs, soient les consommateurs, les actionnaires ou l’entreprise elle-même.

Industries et industriels français du textile face au défi international 1871-1914

Fortement liées à l’international, les industries françaises du textile ont connu une évolution erratique entre 1871 et 1914. L’adoption de tarifs hautement protectionnistes en 1892 favorise les industriels du coton au détriment de ceux travaillant la laine et la soie. Ces derniers exportent leurs marchandises luxueuses sur des marchés ouverts à la concurrence. Ils profitent peu des marchés coloniaux, moins intéressés par leurs produits. Des politiques hardies d’importation directe de la matière première permettent, notamment à Roubaix, de pallier à certains désavantages. Si plusieurs industriels incitent le gouvernement à réformer ses services commerciaux à l’étranger et à y adjoindre des spécialistes, ils retiennent peu les recommandations des experts concernant l’adoption des moyens propres à favoriser les exportations. Plusieurs carences du commerce français ont été soulignées précocement mais il a été difficile de rapidement appliquer des solutions. Dans un contexte marqué par une concurrence accrue sur les marchés extérieurs, la France s’en tire mieux qu’on a pu le penser. La flexibilité de l’appareil productif français permet d’obtenir de nombreuses commandes dans les créneaux du luxe et du demi-luxe. Son niveau d’intégration, moins élevé que dans d’autres pays, se révèle ainsi parfois être un avantage. Toutefois, l’industrie textile est handicapée par la grande difficulté des patrons à s’associer de manière stable à l’extérieur du clan familial. L’entente se réalise cependant plus aisément et avantageusement pour ceux qui ont une production spécialisée, rare ou brevetée. Les performances et l’organisation des entreprises textiles françaises à l’étranger montrent que le marché national stimulait peu les producteurs à adopter les meilleures conditions de production possibles. Ces sociétés et celles obtenant des succès à l’exportation sont souvent les plus dynamiques et les plus rentables.

Global Value Chain Linkages of Manufacturing Export Firms: A Study of The Kannur Home Textile Industry

The literature on the involvement of developing countries in trade has focused on the effects of different aspects of globalization on firms, regions and countries. The study attempts to examine how an export based industry, locallyembedded and originated on the basis of regional strengths has been inserted into the global trade framework. Though the unit of analysis is the manufacturing export firm in the region of Kannur, it represents the entire home textile export industry from the state of Kerala, as close to 90% of fabric exports in home furnishing material, textiles for upholstery and decoration and stitched or fused, and branded made ups are from the region. From a global perspective, how developing countries face newer trade restrictions and overcome non quota barriers by firm and region specific activities within a value chain framework is a major research area, which has already contributions from the Ludhiana woolen cluster (Tewari,1999 ) and the Tirupur cluster in India (Cawthorne, 1995). The study contributes to the value chain literature by examining the governance and upgrading as well as how firms benefit from linkages. India has a number of export oriented agglomerations or regions where firms have been serving export markets for many years. In many cases it is no longer the supply side policy actions that determine how they are able to penetrate new markets or expand existing market share. Based on this study it becomes possible to understand how the global value chain operates in these different industries to examine whether there is a danger of immiserisation of growth or low road growth

A Study Of The Textile Industry In Kerala With Comparative Reference To Tamil Nadu

. The cotton mill industry is one of the important medium and large-scale industries in the State of Kerala. Due to the widespread development of the handloom industry in the State, there is an environment conducive to the growth of cotton spinning mills which produce yarn, the raw material required by the handloom industry. New spin— ing mills are being commissioned. But the performance of the existing cotton spinning and weaving mills in the State is not quite satisfactory. Hence an analysis has been carried out into the profitability and financial position of the industry in Kerala. The objective of the study is to make a financial analysis of the industry covering various aspects such as cost structure, productivity, asset structure, financial structure and working capital management.