A visual and contextual comparative study of the work of Picasso and Chanel towards an understanding of the overlaps between Modern Art and Fashion.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, ``Modernism`` impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle ``Coco`` Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso`s innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel`s fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly deco-rative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has ex-amined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer`s environment from different per-spectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel`s visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

Contraceptive changes after reproductive events among Australian women born in 1973 to 1978: A longitudinal study from 1996 to 2009

Background Women change contraception as they try to conceive, space births, and limit family size. This longitudinal analysis examines contraception changes after reproductive events such as birth, miscarriage or termination among Australian women born from 1973 to 1978 to identify potential opportunities to increase the effectiveness of contraceptive information and service provision. Methods Between 1996 and 2009, 5,631 Australian women randomly sampled from the Australian universal health insurance (Medicare) database completed five self-report postal surveys. Three longitudinal logistic regression models were used to assess the associations between reproductive events (birth only, birth and miscarriage, miscarriage only, termination only, other multiple events, and no new event) and subsequent changes in contraceptive use (start using, stop using, switch method) compared with women who continued to use the same method. Results After women experienced only a birth, or a birth and a miscarriage, they were more likely to start using contraception. Women who experienced miscarriages were more likely to stop using contraception. Women who experienced terminations were more likely to switch methods. There was a significant interaction between reproductive events and time indicating more changes in contraceptive use as women reach their mid-30s. Conclusion Contraceptive use increases after the birth of a child, but decreases after miscarriage indicating the intention for family formation and spacing between children. Switching contraceptive methods after termination suggests these pregnancies were unintended and possibly due to contraceptive failure. Women’s contact with health professionals around the time of reproductive events provides an opportunity to provide contraceptive services.

The gender wage gap: what has happened between 1973 and 1990 in Australia?

The current study examines the change in the gender wage gap in Australia over the period 1973 to 1990. The Juhn, Murphy and Pierce (1991) decomposition is used in order to evaluate the role and relative contribution of changes in observed and unobserved skills and their prices. The sensitivity of conclusions to the measure of labour market experience and industry and occupation structure are also examined. The analysis concludes that gender-specific effects are dominant in male-female wage convergence although wage-structure effects also play a minor role.

Conducting Gestures : Institutional and Educational Construction of Conductorship in Finland, 1973-1993

Anu Konttinen: Conducting Gestures Institutional and Educational Construction of Conductorship in Finland, 1973-1993. This doctoral thesis concentrates on those Finnish conductors who have participated in Professor Jorma Panula s conducting class at the Sibelius Academy during the years 1973 1993. The starting point was conducting as a myth, and the goal has been to find its practical opposite the practical core of the profession. What has been studied is whether one can theorise and analyse this core, and how. The theoretical goal has been to find out what kind of social construction conductorship is as a historical, sociological and practical phenomenon. In practical terms, this means taking the historical and social concept of a great conductor apart to look for the practical core gestural communication. The most important theoretical tool is the concept of gesture. The idea has been to sketch a theoretical model based on gestural communication between a conductor and an orchestra, and to give one example of the many possible ways of studying the gestures of a conductor.

Kaksi perspektiiviä Etykiin: Viro suomalaisten ja ruotsinvirolaisten lehtien silmin 1973-1975

Suomen ja Viron välillä on ollut kontakteja tuhansien vuosien ajan. Vilkkaammiksi yhteydet muuttuivat kansallisen heräämisen ajalla ja sotien välisenä aikana. Toinen maailmansota katkaisi suomalais-virolaiset suhteet lähes 20 vuodeksi Neuvostoliiton miehitettyä Viron. Yhteydet Viroon palasivat jossakin muodossa 1960-luvulla, mutta olivat silloin ja tutkimusajankohtana 1970-luvulla tiukasti säädeltyjä. Kaikki virallisen tason yhteydenpito tapahtui Moskovan kautta ja valvonnassa, ja kansalaisyhteiskunnan tasolla tapahtuvaa toimintaa maiden välillä ei ollut. Myös lehtikirjoittelu oli Moskovan seurannassa ja Neuvostoliitto puuttui usein, mikäli Suomessa kirjoitettiin Virosta jotakin mikä ei ollut sille mieleen. Tutkielman tavoitteena on selvittää, millainen maa Viro oli 1970-luvun alkupuolella ja millainen kuva siitä oli Suomessa sekä Ruotsissa eläneen pakolaisvirolaisen yhteisön keskuudessa. Aineistona on sanomalehtiartikkeleita vuosilta 1973–1975 neljästä suomalaisesta ja kahdesta ruotsinvirolaisesta sanomalehdestä. Erityinen painopistealue on Euroopan turvallisuus- ja yhteistyökokous eli Etyk, jonka järjestelyihin Suomi otti aktiivisesti osaa. Länsivaltiot ajoivat Ety-asiakirjaan periaatteita mm. vapaammasta tiedonvälityksestä ja ihmisten liikkumisesta, Neuvostoliitto taas tavoitteli rauhansopimuksen korviketta, jolla Euroopan toisen maailmansodan jälkeiset rajat vahvistettaisiin. Etyk oli siis virolaisille monella tavalla merkittävä: he saattoivat toivoa kokouksen tuovan mahdollisuuksia ottaa Baltian asia esille ja saada Baltian maille itsenäisyys, tai ainakin suurempi itsemääräämisoikeus. Toisaalta he pelkäsivät Neuvostoliiton vain vahvistavan otettaan Virosta Etykin avulla. Etykiin liittyvässä kirjoittelussa suomalaislehtien haluttomuus ottaa Viron asiaa esille näkyy erityisen selvästi.Virosta ei muutenkaan 1970-luvulla uutisoitu usein ja Etykin yhteydessä virolaisten toiveita ja tavoitteita ei juuri julkistettu. Baltian maista paenneet pyrkivät kyllä tuomaan asiaansa julkisuuteen Helsingin 1973 ja 1975 kokousten aikaan, mutta suomalaislehdissä se ei näkynyt. Virosta myös annettiin siloiteltu kuva sanomalehdissä ja epäkohtia kuten venäläistämistoimenpiteitä, pidätyksiä tai elintarvikepulaa ei julkistettu. Samaan aikaan Ruotsissa pakolaisvirolaisten toimesta ilmestyneiden lehtien maailma oli aivan toisenlainen. Niiden Etyk-aiheiset kirjoitukset käsittelivät lähes pelkästään Viron asiaa ja Etykin kolmannen korin asioita eli ihmisoikeuskysymyksiä. Ne myös toivat esille aivan toisenlaisen kuvan Neuvosto-Viron oloista kuin suomalaislehdet. Muissa kuin Etykiin liittyvissä artikkeleissa suomalaislehtien välillä on kuitenkin eroja. Yhdenkään tutkituista suomalaislehdistä (Helsingin Sanomat, Hufvudstadsbladet, Kansan Uutiset ja Uusi Suomi) ei voi sanoa noudattaneen täysin horjumatta mitään tiettyä linjaa Viro-kirjoittelussa. Yhdenmukaisimmin suhtautui Kansan Uutiset, joka harvoja poikkeuksia lukuun ottamatta ei tuonut esiin kritiikkiä Neuvostoliittoa kohtaan. Vaihtelevin suhtautuminen oli Helsingin Sanomilla, jonka tapauksessa ei oikeastaan voi puhua minkäänlaisesta linjasta. Hufvudstadsbladet oli melko neutraali joskin etäinen ja maltillinen. Eniten neuvostokritiikkiä viljeli Uusi Suomi. Kuitenkin myös siinä ilmestyi esimerkiksi kaunistelevia kuvauksia elämästä Neuvosto-Virossa, eikä sekään Ety-kokousten aikaan asettunut balttipakolaisten puolelle. Yhdessäkään lehdessä ei ilmestynyt Viro-aiheisia kirjoituksia usein; kaikkiaan artikkeleita aineistossani oli 4 lehdestä 3 vuodelta 247. Monissa niistäkään Viro ei ollut pääasia vaan sitä vain sivuttiin. Ruotsinvirolaisia lehtikirjoituksia aineistossani oli 318. Lehtien (Eesti Päevaleht ja Teataja) välillä ei ollut merkittäviä sisällöllisiä eroja. Suomalaislehdistä ne taas erosivat täysin. Viron kuulumisten ja maailmanpolitiikan lisäksi ne seurasivat myös Suomen asioita ja etenkin niitä tapauksia, joissa Viro ylitti uutiskynnyksen suomalaislehdissä. Suomen lehdissä taas ei paria lähinnä Uuden Suomen poikkeusta lukuun ottamatta kirjoitettu pakolaisvirolaisista mitään, eikä etenkään heidän toiminnastaan Viron asian eteen. Pakolaisvirolaisten lisäksi myös Neuvosto-Viro oli 1970-luvulla suurimmalle osalle suomalaisista varsin tuntematon, sillä julkisessa keskustelussa se esiintyi erittäin harvoin ja oli poistettu jopa oppikirjoista. Suomalaisten yleisen käsityksen mukaan Virossa kaikki oli hyvin ja siellä asui tyytyväisiä ihmisiä. Myös Etyk nähtiin Suomessa täysin toisenlaisessa valossa kuin Pohjanlahden toisella puolella, jossa kirjoittelua leimasi pettymys Etykiin toisen maailmansodan jälkeisten rajojen vahvistajana.

Signed portrait of cellist Pablo Casals.

Handwritten dedication: To Ernest A. Koellcken? cordial souvenir Pablo Casals 1967

Short-term survival of discarded pearl perch (Glaucosoma scapulare Ramsay, 1881) caught by hook-and-line in Queensland, Australia

Post-release survival of line-caught pearl perch (Glaucosoma scapulare) was assessed via field experiments where fish were angled using methods similar to those used by commercial, recreational and charter fishers. One hundred and eighty-three individuals were caught during four experiments, of which >91% survived up to three days post-capture. Hook location was found to be the best predictor of survival, with the survival of throat- or stomach-hooked pearl perch significantly (P < 0.05) lower than those hooked in either the mouth or lip. Post-release survival was similar for both legal (≥35 cm) and sub-legal (<35 cm) pearl perch, while those individuals showing no signs of barotrauma were more likely to survive in the short term. Examination of the swim bladders in the laboratory, combined with observations in the field, revealed that swim bladders rupture during ascent from depth allowing swim bladder gases to escape into the gut cavity. As angled fish approach the surface, the alimentary tract ruptures near the anus allowing swim bladder gases to escape the gut cavity. As a result, very few pearl perch exhibit barotrauma symptoms and no barotrauma mitigation strategies were recommended. The results of this study show that pearl perch are relatively resilient to catch-and-release suggesting that post-release mortality would not contribute significantly to total fishing mortality. We recommend the use of circle hooks, fished actively on tight lines, combined with minimal handling in order to maximise the post-release survival of pearl perch.

Seasonal Greeting token-1973

Obverse: Stylized Desing of an Israeli Navy ship with rocket coming out of the canon. Reverse: Emblem of the Israel Government coins and Medals Corporation.

Age-based demographics of the pearl perch Glaucosoma scapulare (Ramsay, 1881)

Summary: This research represents the first age-based demographic assessment of pearl perch, Glaucosoma scapulare (Ramsay, 1881), a highly valued species endemic to coastal waters off central eastern Australia. The study was conducted across the species' distribution that encompasses two state jurisdictions (Queensland in the north and New South Wales in the south) using data collected approximately 10 years apart in each state. Estimates of age were made by counting annuli (validated using marginal increment ratios) in sectioned sagittal otoliths. The maximum estimated age was 19 years. Pearl perch attained approx. 12 cm fork length (FL) after one year, 21 cm FL after 2 years and 29 cm FL after 3 years. Fish from the southern end of the species' distribution grew significantly more slowly than those from the northern part of its range. Commercial landings in the north were characterized by greater proportions of larger (>40 cm FL) and older (>6 years) fish than those in the south, with landings mainly of fish between 3 and 6 years of age. The observed variations in age-based demographics of pearl perch highlight the need for a better understanding of patterns of movement and reproduction in developing a model of population dynamics and life-history for this important species. There is a clear need for further, concurrent, age-based studies on pearl perch in the northern and southern parts of its distribution to support the conclusions of the present study based on data collected a decade apart. © 2013 Blackwell Verlag GmbH.

Memoirs : Heida Hermanns Holde /

The author's mother Alice Goldschmidt was a gifted piano player, who studied with Carl Maria Breithaupt and became his most talented student. Childhood recollections. Early musical awakening. Outbreak of World War One. Recollections of air raids and scarceness of food. Inflation and political instability in post-war Germany. Piano lessons by her mother from an early age. Heida made her debut at age fourteen with the Wiesbaden Symphony under the conductor Carl Schuricht, who became a close mentor and friend. Close relationship to her mother, who had a great influence on her professional career. Heida had a number of outstanding teachers, among them Artur Schnabel, Karl Leimer and Egon Petri. Heida was accepted as a student of Petri at the "Hochschule fuer Musik" in Berlin, where she studied between 1922-1925. Salon at her aunt's house with guests such as the playwright Georg Kaiser and Siegfried Wagner. Her sister Elsie received her Ph.D. in economics and moved to Berlin as well. Heida graduated from the "Hochschule" in 1925. Soon after she won an international piano competition in Berlin. Engagements with various conductors such as Max Fiedler and Otto Klemperer. Private lessons with Arthur Schnabel and Carl Friedberg, the co-founder of Juilliard. Due to occasional experiences of antisemitism during her music career Heida decided to change her name from Goldschmidt to Hermanns. Position at the "Hoch Conservatory" in Frankfurt. Encounter with the music critic Artur Holde, Heida's future-husband. Engagement and wedding in 1932. Move to Berlin.

Board of Delegates of American Israelites records 1859-1881, 1887, 1932

Contains printed copies of the 1860 constitution and by-laws, copies of proceedings and annual reports, 1859-1877, of the Board of Delegates; report on Jews in Roumania, an 1874 annual report of the Hebrew Benevolent and Orphan Asylum Society, manuscript minute books and minutes of meetings, 1859-1876, resolutions, executive, financial, ritual slaughtering and other special committee reports, newspaper clippings and correspondence with synagogues and organizations in the U.S. who constitute the membership of the Board of Delegates, with the Union of American Hebrew Congregations with whom they later merged, the Union's Board of Delegates of Civil and Religious Rights, and with individuals and organizations in foreign countries including the Alliance Israelite Universelle, the Anglo-Jewish Association, the Board of Deputies of British Jews, the Committee for the Roumanian Jews (Berlin), the Koenigsberg Committee, and the London Roumanian Committee.

Graenum Berger papers, undated, (1825)-2002

Contains correspondence, minutes, reports, clippings, manuscripts, research materials, journal articles, photographs and publications; primarily relating to Berger's involvement with Ethiopian Jewry and his efforts to bring about their rescue through the organization he formed, the American Association for Ethiopian Jews. Also contains material from Berger's other interests- his writings, travels through the world and to Israel and Ethiopia, community affiliations, research in Black American Jews, profession as a Jewish social work executive, his commitment to Jewish causes and to Israel. There are also many personal and biographical materials from the numerous long-term friendships and associations he established.

Lewis Lichtenstein Strauss papers 1908-1973

Consists of correspondence, documents, speeches, reports and other writings, photographs, film and other records of Admiral Strauss' involvement with Jewish organizations and causes, as well as miscellaneous personal items.

Short-term survival of discarded pearl perch (Glaucosoma scapulare Ramsay, 1881) caught by hook-and-line in Queensland, Australia

Post-release survival of line-caught pearl perch (Glaucosoma scapulare) was assessed via field experiments where fish were angled using methods similar to those used by commercial, recreational and charter fishers. One hundred and eighty-three individuals were caught during four experiments, of which >91 survived up to three days post-capture. Hook location was found to be the best predictor of survival, with the survival of throat- or stomach-hooked pearl perch significantly (P < 0.05) lower than those hooked in either the mouth or lip. Post-release survival was similar for both legal (≥35 cm) and sub-legal (<35 cm) pearl perch, while those individuals showing no signs of barotrauma were more likely to survive in the short term. Examination of the swim bladders in the laboratory, combined with observations in the field, revealed that swim bladders rupture during ascent from depth allowing swim bladder gases to escape into the gut cavity. As angled fish approach the surface, the alimentary tract ruptures near the anus allowing swim bladder gases to escape the gut cavity. As a result, very few pearl perch exhibit barotrauma symptoms and no barotrauma mitigation strategies were recommended. The results of this study show that pearl perch are relatively resilient to catch-and-release suggesting that post-release mortality would not contribute significantly to total fishing mortality. We recommend the use of circle hooks, fished actively on tight lines, combined with minimal handling in order to maximise the post-release survival of pearl perch.