Book Reviews: "Fashion Media: Past and Present"

The book Fashion Media: Past and Present is a timely insight into the historical relationship between fashion and media. Edited by Djurdja Bartlett (Senior Research Fellow at the London College of Fashion), Shaun Cole (Course Leader for the MA in the History and Culture of Fashion and MA Fashion Curation at the London College of Fashion) and Agnès Rocamora (Reader in Social and Cultural Studies at the London College of Fashion), Fashion Media offers a wide historical perspective on how painting, photography, film, television and the Internet have intersected with fashion. The book also provides a useful understanding of social and cultural key issues related to this synergy...

Horsing around – Using equine facilitated learning to support the development of social-emotional competence of students at risk of school failure

The social-emotional issues some students experience can place them at risk of school failure. Traditional methods of support can be ineffective or not sustainable and new alternative approaches need to be attempted to support social-emotional competency, school engagement and success for students at risk. This paper discusses preliminary outcomes of an equine facilitated learning (EFL) programme specifically designed to focus on using horses to improve the resilience and social-emotional competency in students perceived as ‘at risk’ of school failure. This qualitative exploratory study used interviews and observations over a six month period to listen to the voices of the students themselves about their experiences of EFL. Initial findings from the pilot study suggest that EFL programmes can be a novel and motivating way to promote resilience training and social-emotional development of students at risk of failure and, in turn, improve their level of engagement and connection with school environments.

Cholesterol Disturbances in Inherited Neurodegenerative Diseases : Studies on Npc1, Ppt1 and Ctsd deficient mice

The central nervous system (CNS) is the most cholesterol-rich organ in the body. Cholesterol is essential to CNS functions such as synaptogenesis and formation of myelin. Significant differences exist in cholesterol metabolism between the CNS and the peripheral organs. However, the regulation of cholesterol metabolism in the CNS is poorly understood compared to our knowledge of the regulation of cholesterol homeostasis in organs reached by cholesterol-carrying lipoprotein particles in the circulation. Defects in CNS cholesterol homeostasis have been linked to a variety of neurodegenerative diseases, including common diseases with complex pathogenetic mechanisms such as Alzheimer s disease. In spite of intense effort, the mechanisms which link disturbed cholesterol homeostasis to these diseases remain elusive. We used three inherited recessive neurodegenerative disorders as models in the studies included in this thesis: Niemann-Pick type C (NPC), infantile neuronal ceroid lipofuscinosis and cathepsin D deficiency. Of these three, NPC has previously been linked to disturbed intracellular cholesterol metabolism. Elucidating the mechanisms with which disturbances of cholesterol homeostasis link to neurodegeneration in recessive inherited disorders with known genetic lesions should shed light on how cholesterol is handled in the healthy CNS and help to understand how these and more complex diseases develop. In the first study we analyzed the synthesis of sterols and the assembly and secretion of lipoprotein particles in Npc1 deficient primary astrocytes. We found that both wild type and Npc1 deficient astrocytes retain significant amounts of desmosterol and other cholesterol precursor sterols as membrane constituents. No difference was observed in the synthesis of sterols and the secretion of newly synthesized sterols between Npc1 wild type, heterozygote or knockout astrocytes. We found that the incorporation of newly synthesized sterols into secreted lipoprotein particles was not inhibited by Npc1 mutation, and the lipoprotein particles were similar to those excreted by wild type astrocytes in shape and size. The bulk of cholesterol was found to be secreted independently of secreted NPC2. These observations demonstrate the ability of Npc1 deficient astrocytes to handle de novo sterols, and highlight the unique sterol composition in the developing brain. Infantile neuronal ceroid lipofuscinosis is caused by the deficiency of a functional Ppt1 enzyme in the cells. In the second study, global gene expression studies of approximately 14000 mouse genes showed significant changes in the expression of 135 genes in Ppt1 deficient neurons compared to wild type. Several genes encoding for enzymes of the mevalonate pathway of cholesterol biosynthesis showed increased expression. As predicted by the expression data, sterol biosynthesis was found to be upregulated in the knockout neurons. These data link Ppt1 deficiency to disturbed cholesterol metabolism in CNS neurons. In the third study we investigated the effect of cathepsin D deficiency on the structure of myelin and lipid homeostasis in the brain. Our proteomics data, immunohistochemistry and western blotting data showed altered levels of the myelin protein components myelin basic protein, proteolipid protein and 2 , 3 -cyclic nucleotide 3 phosphodiesterase in the brains of cathepsin D deficient mice. Electron microscopy revealed altered myelin structure in cathepsin D deficient brains. Additionally, plasmalogen-derived alkenyl chains and 20- and 24-carbon saturated and monounsaturated fatty acids typical for glycosphingolipids were found to be significantly reduced, but polyunsaturated species were significantly increased in the knockout brains, pointing to a decrease in white matter. The levels of ApoE and ABCA1 proteins linked to cholesterol efflux in the CNS were found to be altered in the brains of cathepsin D deficient mice, along with an accumulation of cholesteryl esters and a decrease in triglycerols. Together these data demonstrate altered myelin architecture in cathepsin D deficient mice and link cathepsin D deficiency to aberrant cholesterol metabolism and trafficking. Basic research into rare monogenic diseases sheds light on the underlying biological processes which are perturbed in these conditions and contributes to our understanding of the physiological function of healthy cells. Eventually, understanding gained from the study of disease models may contribute towards establishing treatment for these disorders and further our understanding of the pathogenesis of other, more complex and common diseases.

Of tolerance in mice and men : studies in APECED and Aire

Autoimmune diseases affect 5 % of the population and come in many forms, such as diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis and MS. However, how and why autoimmune diseases arise are not yet fully resolved. In this thesis, the onset of autoimmunity was investigated using both patient samples and a mouse model of autoimmunity. Autoimmune diseases are usually complex, due to a number of different causative genes and environmental factors. However, a few monogenic autoimmune diseases have been described, which are caused by mutations in only one gene per disease. One of such disease is called APECED (autoimmune polyendocrinopathy-candidiasis-ectodermal dystrophy) and is enriched in the Finnish population. The causative gene behind APECED is named AIRE from AutoImmune REgulator. How malfunction of just one gene product can cause the multitude of disease components found in APECED is not yet resolved. This thesis sought out to find out more about the functions of AIRE, in order to reveal why APECED and other autoimmune diseases arise and what goes wrong? Usually, immune cells are taught to distinguish between self and non-self during their development. That way, immune cells can fight off bacteria and microbes while leaving the tissues and organs of the host organism itself unharmed. In APECED, the development of immune cells called αβ T cells is incomplete. The cells are not able to fully distinguish between self and non-self. This leads to autodestruction of self tissues and autoimmune disease. One of the achievements of this thesis was the finding that the development of another set of T cells called γδ T cells is not affected by AIRE in mice or in men. Instead, we found that another type of immune cell important in tolerance, called the dendritic cell is defective in APECED patients and is not able to respond to microbial stimulus in a normal fashion. Finally, we studied Aire-deficient mice and found that autoantibodies expressed in the mice were not targeted against the same molecules as those found in APECED patients. This indicates differences in the autoimmune pathology in mice and men. More work is still required before we understand the mechanisms of tolerance and autoimmunity well enough to be able to cure APECED, let alone the more complex autoimmune diseases. Yet altogether, the findings of this thesis work bring us one step closer to finding out why and how APECED and common autoimmune diseases arise.

A simple and fast two-locus quality control test to detect false positives due to batch effects in genome-wide association studies

The impact of erroneous genotypes having passed standard quality control (QC) can be severe in genome-wide association studies, genotype imputation, and estimation of heritability and prediction of genetic risk based on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNP). To detect such genotyping errors, a simple two-locus QC method, based on the difference in test statistic of association between single SNPs and pairs of SNPs, was developed and applied. The proposed approach could detect many problematic SNPs with statistical significance even when standard single SNP QC analyses fail to detect them in real data. Depending on the data set used, the number of erroneous SNPs that were not filtered out by standard single SNP QC but detected by the proposed approach varied from a few hundred to thousands. Using simulated data, it was shown that the proposed method was powerful and performed better than other tested existing methods. The power of the proposed approach to detect erroneous genotypes was approximately 80% for a 3% error rate per SNP. This novel QC approach is easy to implement and computationally efficient, and can lead to a better quality of genotypes for subsequent genotype-phenotype investigations.

Variation in tracheid cross-sectional dimensions and wood viscoelasticity extent and control methods

Printing papers have been the main product of the Finnish paper industry. To improve properties and economy of printing papers, controlling of tracheid cross-sectional dimensions and wood viscoelasticity are examined in this study. Controlling is understood as any procedure which yields raw material classes with distinct properties and small internal variation. Tracheid cross-sectional dimensions, i.e., cell wall thickness and radial and tangential diameters can be controlled with methods such as sorting wood into pulpwood and sawmill chips, sorting of logs according to tree social status and fractionation of fibres. These control methods were analysed in this study with simulations, which were based on measured tracheid cross-sectional dimensions. A SilviScan device was used to measure the data set from five Norway spruce (Picea abies) and five Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) trunks. The simulation results indicate that the sawmill chips and top pulpwood assortments have quite similar cross-sectional dimensions. Norway spruce and Scots pine are on average also relatively similar in their cross-sectional dimensions. The distributions of these species are somewhat different, but from a practical point of view, the differences are probably of minor importance. The controlling of tracheid cross-sectional dimensions can be done most efficiently with methods that can separate fibres into earlywood and latewood. Sorting of logs or partitioning of logs into juvenile and mature wood were markedly less efficient control methods than fractionation of fibres. Wood viscoelasticity affects energy consumption in mechanical pulping, and is thus an interesting control target when improving energy efficiency of the process. A literature study was made to evaluate the possibility of using viscoelasticity in controlling. The study indicates that there is considerable variation in viscoelastic properties within tree species, but unfortunately, the viscoelastic properties of important raw material lots such as top pulpwood or sawmill chips are not known. Viscoelastic properties of wood depend mainly on lignin, but also on microfibrillar angle, width of cellulose crystals and tracheid cross-sectional dimensions.

Effects of dietary phosphorus and calcium-to-phosphorus ratio on calcium and bone metabolism in healthy 20- to 43-year-old Finnish women

Dietary habits have changed during the past decades towards an increasing consumption of processed foods, which has notably increased not only total dietary phosphorus (P) intake, but also intake of P from phosphate additives. While the intake of calcium (Ca) in many Western countries remains below recommended levels (800 mg/d), the usual daily P intake in a typical Western diet exceeds by 2- to 3-fold the dietary guidelines (600 mg/d). The effects of high P intake in healthy humans have been investigated seldom. In this thesis healthy 20- to 43-year-old women were studied. In the first controlled study (n = 14), we examined the effects of P doses, and in a cross-sectional study (n = 147) the associations of habitual P intakes with Ca and bone metabolism. In this same cross-sectional study, we also investigated whether differences exist between dietary P originating from natural P sources and phosphate additives. The second controlled study (n = 12) investigated whether by increasing the Ca intake, the effects of a high P intake could be reduced. The associations of habitual dietary calcium-to-phosphorus ratios (Ca:P ratio) with Ca and bone metabolism were determined in a cross-sectional study design (n = 147). In the controlled study, the oral intake of P doses (495, 745, 1245 and 1995 mg/d) with a low Ca intake (250 mg/d) increased serum parathyroid hormone (S-PTH) concentration in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, the highest P dose decreased serum ionized calcium (S-iCa) concentration and bone formation and increased bone resorption. In the second controlled study with a dietary P intake of 1850 mg/d, by increasing the Ca intake from 480 mg/d to 1080 mg/d and then to 1680 mg/d, the S-PTH concentration decreased, the S-iCa concentration increased and bone resorption decreased dose-dependently. However, not even the highest Ca intake could counteract the effect of high dietary P on bone formation, as indicated by unchanged bone formation activity. In the cross-sectional studies, a higher habitual dietary P intake (>1650 mg/d) was associated with lower S-iCa and higher S-PTH concentrations. The consumption of phosphate additive-containing foods was associated with a higher S-PTH concentration. Moreover, habitual low dietary Ca:P ratios (≤0.50, molar ratio) were associated with higher S-PTH concentrations and 24-h urinary Ca excretions, suggesting that low dietary Ca:P ratios may interfere with homeostasis of Ca metabolism and increase bone resorption. In summary, excessive dietary P intake in healthy Finnish women seems to be detrimental to Ca and bone metabolism, especially when dietary Ca intake is low. The results indicate that by increasing dietary Ca intake to the recommended level, the negative effects of high P intake could be diminished, but not totally prevented. These findings imply that phosphate additives may be more harmful than natural P. Thus, reduction of an excessively high dietary P intake is also beneficial for healthy individuals.

Survival analysis of time-to-event data in respiratory health research studies

This article provides a review of techniques for the analysis of survival data arising from respiratory health studies. Popular techniques such as the Kaplan–Meier survival plot and the Cox proportional hazards model are presented and illustrated using data from a lung cancer study. Advanced issues are also discussed, including parametric proportional hazards models, accelerated failure time models, time-varying explanatory variables, simultaneous analysis of multiple types of outcome events and the restricted mean survival time, a novel measure of the effect of treatment.

The Fashion Studies Book

The Fashion Book is an exciting, readable and comprehensive, all-in-one resource for students of fashion across the English-speaking world. It is designed as an introduction to fashion studies that can be used in a range of fashion courses from fashion studies degrees to fashion modules, and majors in disciplines including cultural studies, cultural sociology, cultural geography, communications and media, anthropology and cultural history. The book will present current writings and research on major topics debates in fashion studies drawing on the literature on fashion theory and incorporating many global case studies (as easy-to-read boxed material). Graphs, tables and diagrams will add texture to the written material. Approximately 200 colour images are planned to generously illustrate the historical and the contemporary tapestry of fashion. A dedicated interactive website will complement the text and ensure that students are in touch with the latest news, issues and trends.

Investigating early childhood teachers’ understandings of and practices in education for sustainability in Queensland: A Japan-Australia research collaboration

In a study undertaken in Queensland, Australia, analysis of a survey that included both qualitative and quantitative questions revealed that, like their Japanese counterparts, early childhood teachers do not have well-developed ideas and practices in education for sustainability (EfS). Instead, they mainly practise traditional nature-based activities, such as gardening or playing outdoors, and teaching about resource conservation through books, posters or fact sheets. Teachers’ understandings of nature education, environmental education, and education for sustainability seem to influence their educational practices. Deeper understandings about sustainability are necessary to extend beyond such traditional practices. Even though national curriculum frameworks and guidelines point to the importance of sustainability within early childhood curriculum, these appear to be insufficient in strengthening early childhood teachers’ ideas of sustainability and how to practise it effectively. We suggest that it would be beneficial for early childhood teachers, both preservice and inservice, to have professional development opportunities that build deeper understandings of sustainability and its implementation in their settings.

Use of norethisterone and estradiol in mini doses as a contraceptive in the male : Efficacy studies in the adult male bonnet monkey (Macaca radiata)

Administration of norethisterone (NET) or NET + estradiol benzoate using an Alzet minipump or as once-a-month intramuscular injection of their depot forms, NET-enanthate (NET-EN) and estradiol valerate (E-val), resulted in azoospermia in all monkeys (n = 13) within 60 to 150 days of treatment. Although addition of depot form of testosterone (T, 20 mg/month) to the regimen restored the behavioral response typical of a normal male, it did not reverse the azoospermic state. Serum T (heightened nocturnal) levels were significantly reduced (> 85%, p < 0.001) in all the treated groups. Evidence for blockade in spermatogenesis following treatment was obtained by DNA flow cytometry. Following withdrawal of treatment, the T level was restored to normalcy within 15 days but 120 days more were required for the animals to exhibit normal sperm counts. In conclusion, the efficacy of once-a-month injection of relatively low doses of NET-EN + E-Val to bring about azoospermia in monkeys, in a relatively short time, has been demonstrated. As the results are uniform and reproducible, it appears desirable that this steroid regimen be tested in man for its contraceptive efficacy.

Substance flow analysis in Finland : Four case studies on N and P flows

Nitrogen (N) and phosphorus (P) are essential elements for all living organisms. However, in excess, they contribute to several environmental problems such as aquatic and terrestrial eutrophication. Globally, human action has multiplied the volume of N and P cycling since the onset of industrialization. The multiplication is a result of intensified agriculture, increased energy consumption and population growth. Industrial ecology (IE) is a discipline, in which human interaction with the ecosystems is investigated using a systems analytical approach. The main idea behind IE is that industrial systems resemble ecosystems, and, like them, industrial systems can then be described using material, energy and information flows and stocks. Industrial systems are dependent on the resources provided by the biosphere, and these two cannot be separated from each other. When studying substance flows, the aims of the research from the viewpoint of IE can be, for instance, to elucidate the ways how the cycles of a certain substance could be more closed and how the flows of a certain substance could be decreased per unit of production (= dematerialization). In Finland, N and P are studied widely in different ecosystems and environmental emissions. A holistic picture comparing different societal systems is, however, lacking. In this thesis, flows of N and P were examined in Finland using substance flow analysis (SFA) in the following four subsystems: I) forest industry and use of wood fuels, II) food production and consumption, III) energy, and IV) municipal waste. A detailed analysis at the end of the 1990s was performed. Furthermore, historical development of the N and P flows was investigated in the energy system (III) and the municipal waste system (IV). The main research sources were official statistics, literature, monitoring data, and expert knowledge. The aim was to identify and quantify the main flows of N and P in Finland in the four subsystems studied. Furthermore, the aim was to elucidate whether the nutrient systems are cyclic or linear, and to identify how these systems could be more efficient in the use and cycling of N and P. A final aim was to discuss how this type of an analysis can be used to support decision-making on environmental problems and solutions. Of the four subsystems, the food production and consumption system and the energy system created the largest N flows in Finland. For the creation of P flows, the food production and consumption system (Paper II) was clearly the largest, followed by the forest industry and use of wood fuels and the energy system. The contribution of Finland to N and P flows on a global scale is low, but when compared on a per capita basis, we are one of the largest producers of these flows, with relatively high energy and meat consumption being the main reasons. Analysis revealed the openness of all four systems. The openness is due to the high degree of internationality of the Finnish markets, the large-scale use of synthetic fertilizers and energy resources and the low recycling rate of many waste fractions. Reduction in the use of fuels and synthetic fertilizers, reorganization of the structure of energy production, reduced human intake of nutrients and technological development are crucial in diminishing the N and P flows. To enhance nutrient recycling and replace inorganic fertilizers, recycling of such wastes as wood ash and sludge could be promoted. SFA is not usually sufficiently detailed to allow specific recommendations for decision-making to be made, but it does yield useful information about the relative magnitude of the flows and may reveal unexpected losses. Sustainable development is a widely accepted target for all human action. SFA is one method that can help to analyse how effective different efforts are in leading to a more sustainable society. SFA's strength is that it allows a holistic picture of different natural and societal systems to be drawn. Furthermore, when the environmental impact of a certain flow is known, the method can be used to prioritize environmental policy efforts.