Inspiration sources for Australian fast fashion design: Tapping into consumer desire

Purpose The research purpose was to identify both the inspiration sources used by fast fashion designers and ways the designers sort information from the sources during the product development process. Design/methodology/approach This is a qualitative study, drawing on semi-structured interviews conducted with the members of the in-house design teams of three Australian fast fashion companies. Findings Australian fast fashion designers rely on a combination of trend data, sales data, product analysis and travel for design development ideas. The designers then use the consensus and embodiment methods to interpret and synthesise information from those inspiration sources. Research limitations/implications The empirical data used in the analysis were limited by interviewing fashion designers within only three Australian companies. Originality/value This research augments knowledge of fast fashion product development, in particular designers’ methods and approaches to product design within a volatile and competitive market.

Kuluttajamuotti : Kuluttajuuden tuottamisesta mainonnan instituutioissa

Advertising and marketing institutions produce categorisations of different groups of population. These categorisations serve as tools for addressing the potential consumers. This research is about how and what kind of categorisations of consumerhood are produced and how they are used as governing patterns within the institutions of advertising. My goal is to shed light on methods, cultural patterns and discourses for making people become consumers, objects for marketing measures. The data consists of 23 qualitative thematic interviews with Finnish advertising professionals. Moreover, examples are drawn from professional magazines and brochures of media agencies and marketing research organisations. First, I present some of the the official consumer categories in the consumer monitors produced by research organisations. Then, I analyse the unofficial consumer categories which are produced by advertising professionals in the interviews. The methodological framework is based on discourse theory and especially on Michel Foucault s ideas on power, governmentality, and discourses. Discursive categorisation of the population is one of the means of governmentality used in marketing and advertising. Knowledge of the consumer research is used as a tool for governing the potential consumers. Even though the real consumers always have a possibility to behave against the marketer s wishes. The marketers can not make people buy certain products or services, but they aim at influencing people in a way that they want to buy the products and start to govern themselves. As result, I present six unofficial discursive consumer categories, which are used by the advertising professionals. The consumerhood may be represented as rational, self-fulfilling, indifferent, whimsical, manipulated or sovereign. However, The discursive consumer categorisations are overlapping and controversial. The interviewed advertising professionals construct their own particular position in relation to the consumers which are viewed as others . On the other, the interviewees may talk about themselves as consumers. Finally, I maintain that the consumers and target groups of advertising are viewed as commodities in advertising institutions. The end product of the product development is not only the product but the aim is to produce the consumer of the product. The research of the ways advertising professionals aim to govern the consumers gives knowledge on the networks of power in which people act within consumer culture.

Global and EU governance for sustainable forest management with special reference to capacity building in Ethiopia and Southern Sudan

The purpose of this study was to produce information on and practical recommendations for informed decision-making on and capacity building for sustainable forest management (SFM) and good forest governance. This was done within the overall global framework for sustainable development with special emphasis on the EU and African frameworks and on Southern Sudan and Ethiopia in particular. The case studies on Southern Sudan and Ethiopia focused on local, national and regional issues. Moreover, this study attempted to provide both theoretical and practical new insight. The aim was to build an overall theoretical framework and to study its key contents and main implications for SFM and good forest governance at all administration levels, for providing new tools for capacity building in natural resources management. The theoretical framework and research approach were based on the original research problem and the general and specific aims of the study. The key elements of the framework encompass sustainable development, global and EU governance, sustainable forest management (SFM), good forest governance, as well as international and EU law. The selected research approach comprised matrix-based assessment of international, regional (EU and Africa) and national (Southern Sudan and Ethiopia) policy and legal documents. The specific case study on Southern Sudan also involved interviews and group discussions with local community members and government officials. As a whole, this study attempted to link the global, regional, national and local levels in forest-sector development and especially to analyse how the international policy development in environmental and forestry issues is reflected in field-level progress towards SFM and good forest governance, for the specific cases of Southern Sudan and Ethiopia. The results on Southern Sudan focused on the existing situation and perceived needs in capacity building for SFM and good forest governance at all administration levels. Specifically, the results of the case study on Southern Sudan presented the current situation in selected villages in the northern parts of Renk County in Upper Nile State, and the implications of Multilateral Environmental Agreements (MEAs) and of the new forest policy framework for capacity building actions. The results on Ethiopia focused on training, extension, research, education and new curriculum development within higher education institutions and particularly at the Wondo Genet College of Forestry and Natural Resources (WGCF-NR), which administratively lies under Hawassa University. The results suggest that, for both cases studies, informed decision-making on and capacity building for SFM and good forest governance require comprehensive, long-term, cross-sectoral, coherent and consistent approaches within the dynamic and evolving overall global framework, including its multiple inter-linked levels. The specific priority development and focus areas comprised the establishment of SFM and good forest governance in accordance with the overall sustainable development priorities and with more focus on the international trade in forest products that are derived from sustainable and legal sources with an emphasis on effective forest law enforcement and governance at all levels. In Upper Nile State in Southern Sudan there were positive development signals such as the will of the local people to plant more multipurpose trees on farmlands and range lands as well as the recognition of the importance of forests and trees for sustainable rural development where food security is a key element. In addition, it was evident that the local communities studied in Southern Sudan also wanted to establish good governance systems through partnerships with all actors and through increased local responsibilities. The results also suggest that the implementation of MEAs at the local level in Southern Sudan requires mutually supportive and coherent approaches within the agreements as well as significantly more resources and financial and technical assistance for capacity building, training and extension. Finally, the findings confirm the importance of full utilization of the existing local governance and management systems and their traditional and customary knowledge and practices, and of new development partnerships with full participation of all stakeholders. The planned new forest law for Southern Sudan, based on an already existing new forest policy, is expected to recognize the roles of local-level actors, and it would thus obviously facilitate the achieving of sustainable forest management.

Light scattering in random media with wavelength-scale structures : astronomical and industrial applications

Light scattering, or scattering and absorption of electromagnetic waves, is an important tool in all remote-sensing observations. In astronomy, the light scattered or absorbed by a distant object can be the only source of information. In Solar-system studies, the light-scattering methods are employed when interpreting observations of atmosphereless bodies such as asteroids, atmospheres of planets, and cometary or interplanetary dust. Our Earth is constantly monitored from artificial satellites at different wavelengths. With remote sensing of Earth the light-scattering methods are not the only source of information: there is always the possibility to make in situ measurements. The satellite-based remote sensing is, however, superior in the sense of speed and coverage if only the scattered signal can be reliably interpreted. The optical properties of many industrial products play a key role in their quality. Especially for products such as paint and paper, the ability to obscure the background and to reflect light is of utmost importance. High-grade papers are evaluated based on their brightness, opacity, color, and gloss. In product development, there is a need for computer-based simulation methods that could predict the optical properties and, therefore, could be used in optimizing the quality while reducing the material costs. With paper, for instance, pilot experiments with an actual paper machine can be very time- and resource-consuming. The light-scattering methods presented in this thesis solve rigorously the interaction of light and material with wavelength-scale structures. These methods are computationally demanding, thus the speed and accuracy of the methods play a key role. Different implementations of the discrete-dipole approximation are compared in the thesis and the results provide practical guidelines in choosing a suitable code. In addition, a novel method is presented for the numerical computations of orientation-averaged light-scattering properties of a particle, and the method is compared against existing techniques. Simulation of light scattering for various targets and the possible problems arising from the finite size of the model target are discussed in the thesis. Scattering by single particles and small clusters is considered, as well as scattering in particulate media, and scattering in continuous media with porosity or surface roughness. Various techniques for modeling the scattering media are presented and the results are applied to optimizing the structure of paper. However, the same methods can be applied in light-scattering studies of Solar-system regoliths or cometary dust, or in any remote-sensing problem involving light scattering in random media with wavelength-scale structures.

Perspectives on Titanium Science and Technology

The basic framework and - conceptual understanding of the metallurgy of Ti alloys is strong and this has enabled the use of titanium and its alloys in safety-critical structures such as those in aircraft and aircraft engines. Nevertheless, a focus on cost-effectiveness and the compression of product development time by effectively integrating design with manufacturing in these applications, as well as those emerging in bioengineering, has driven research in recent decades towards a greater predictive capability through the use of computational materials engineering tools. Therefore this paper focuses on the complexity and variety of fundamental phenomena in this material system with a focus on phase transformations and mechanical behaviour in order to delineate the challenges that lie ahead in achieving these goals. (C) 2012 Acta Materialia Inc. Published by Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

DTM AT 25: ESSAYS ON THEMES AND FUTURE DIRECTIONS

This paper describes the development and evolution of research themes in the Design Theory and Methodology (DTM) conference. Essays containing reflections on the history of DTM, supported by an analysis of session titles and papers winning the ``best paper award'', describe the development of the research themes. A second set of essays describes the evolution of several key research themes. Two broad trends in research themes are evident, with a third one emerging. The topics of the papers in the first decade or so reflect an underlying aim to apply artificial intelligence toward developing systems that could `design'. To do so required understanding how human designers behave, formalizing design processes so that they could be computed, and formalizing representations of design knowledge. The themes in the first DTM conference and the recollections of the DTM founders reflect this underlying aim. The second decade of DTM saw the emergence of product development as an underlying concern and included a growth in a systems view of design. More recently, there appears to be a trend toward design-led innovation, which entails both executing the design process more efficiently and understanding the characteristics of market-leading designs so as to produce engineered products and systems of exceptional levels of quality and customer satisfaction.

Las barreras a la integración interfuncional y su relación con el rendimiento de los nuevos productos en las empresas innovadoras españolas

[ES] En este trabajo se analiza la relación entre la integración interfuncional y el rendimiento de los nuevos productos en una muestra de empresas innovadoras españolas. Las percepciones de los directivos de I+D, marketing, producción y otras áreas permiten comprobar que la falta de apoyo de la alta dirección y la distancia física entre áreas son dos barreras significativas a la integración interfuncional. Además, los directivos perciben que la integración interfuncional está relacionada con el rendimiento del programa de desarrollo de nuevos productos. Los resultados apoyan la mayoría de las hipótesis planteadas y son coherentes con las investigaciones previas sobre el tema. También se plantean las implicaciones que para la dirección tienen estos resultados y algunas líneas de investigación futuras.