Scour prediction and scour protections in offshore wind farms

This paper is the result of research whose main objective is to analyse different methods used for the prediction of maximum scour depth and scour extension, and for the design of scour protections in offshore wind farms located in shallow water, using medium and large diameter monopile foundations. Physical agents such as waves, currents and wind play a major role in the design of structures like offshore farms. As a result, the study has highlighted the need for introducing experience backed climate monomials such as the dimensionless wave height parameter (H0) and proposes the use of formulations that can express the extent of scour protections as a function of waves in transitional waters.

Similarities between ion waves in plasmas and gravity waves in incompressible fluids

Some similarities between ion waves in plasmas and gravity waves in incompressible fluids are investigated. It is shown that for zero ion temperature the ion-wave dispersion relation is similar to that of gravity waves in a stratified liquid between rigid, horizontal walls; for large wavelength the ion waves behave as the surface gravity waves of shallow-water theory. The general character of the pattern of ion waves arising in steady plasma flows is analyzed for arbitrary ion temperature, wavelength, and acoustic mach number (which is based on the ion-acoustic speed), and is compared to the pattern of surface gravity waves in steady water flows when surface tension is taken into account.

Use of a scrapped ship as a floating breakwater for shore protection

The purpose of this research is to assess the effectiveness of a ship used as a detached floating breakwater for coastal protection and forming salients of sand or tombolos. Floating breakwaters have been extensively used as port or coastal protection structures and display advantages in terms of construction and ecology, amongst others. However, the greatest problem these structures present is the limited range of wave heights and periods for which they are really effective. Furthermore, ships may be considered as floating structures which, used as breakwaters, would keep the advantages of floating breakwaters and would increase their range of applicability. The possibility of using ships at the conclusion of their useful life for this purpose would also involve greater economic and environmental advantages. Tests were carried out to assess the ship’s effectiveness as a detached floating breakwater using a scaled down physical model to determine the vessel’s transmission coefficient (Kt) as to regular waves with significant periods of 5 sec to 12 sec and significant wave heights of 1.5 m to 4 m at depths from 20 m to 35 m. The ship proves effective for waves up to 4 m significant height and significant periods up to 9 sec. Hanson and Kraus and Pilarzyk’s analytical models, which take transmission coefficients into account, were used to analyse the shore’s response to the breakwater protection. The results obtained show that salients form for waves with periods between 6 sec and 9 sec. It is also concluded that the depths tested are far different from the more usual shallow water involved in constructing detached breakwaters and the shore’s response is therefore scarce.

Space-time ocean wave measurement using variational stereo vision systems

Remote sensing imaging systems for the measurement of oceanic sea states have recently attracted renovated attention. Imaging technology is economical, non-invasive and enables a better understanding of the space-time dynamics of ocean waves over an area rather than at selected point locations of previous monitoring methods (buoys, wave gauges, etc.). We present recent progress in space-time measurement of ocean waves using stereo vision systems on offshore platforms. Both traditional disparity-based systems and modern elevation-based ones are presented in a variational optimization framework: the main idea is to pose the stereoscopic reconstruction problem of the surface of the ocean in a variational setting and design an energy functional whose minimizer is the desired temporal sequence of wave heights. The functional combines photometric observations as well as spatial and temporal smoothness priors. Disparity methods estimate the disparity between images as an intermediate step toward retrieving the depth of the waves with respect to the cameras, whereas elevation methods estimate the ocean surface displacements directly in 3-D space. Both techniques are used to measure ocean waves from real data collected at offshore platforms in the Black Sea (Crimean Peninsula, Ukraine) and the Northern Adriatic Sea (Venice coast, Italy). Then, the statistical and spectral properties of the resulting observed waves are analyzed. We show the advantages and disadvantages of the presented stereo vision systems and discuss the improvement of their performance in critical issues such as the robustness of the camera calibration in spite of undesired variations of the camera parameters.

Numerical model for the study of hydrodynamics on bays and estuaries

A nonlinear implicit finite element model for the solution of two-dimensional (2-D) shallow water equations, based on a Galerkin formulation of the 2-D estuaries hydrodynamic equations, has been developed. Spatial discretization has been achieved by the use of isoparametric, Lagrangian elements. To obtain the different element matrices, Simpson numerical integration has been applied. For time integration of the model, several schemes in finite differences have been used: the Cranck-Nicholson iterative method supplies a superior accuracy and allows us to work with the greatest time step Δt; however, central differences time integration produces a greater velocity of calculation. The model has been tested with different examples to check its accuracy and advantages in relation to computation and handling of matrices. Finally, an application to the Bay of Santander is also presented.

Dynamic interactions between solids and viscous liquids with free surface = Interacciones dinámicas entre sólidos y líquidos viscosos con superficie libre

En esta tesis se investiga la interacción entre un fluido viscoso y un cuerpo sólido en presencia de una superficie libre. El problema se expresa teóricamente poniendo especial atención a los aspectos de conservación de energía y de la interacción del fluido con el cuerpo. El problema se considera 2D y monofásico, y un desarrollo matemático permite una descomposición de los términos disipativos en términos relacionados con la superficie libre y términos relacionados con la enstrofía. El modelo numérico utilizado en la tesis se basa en el método sin malla Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH). De manera análoga a lo que se hace a nivel continuo, las propiedades de conservación se estudian en la tesis con el sistema discreto de partículas. Se tratan también las condiciones de contorno de un cuerpo que se mueve en un flujo viscoso, implementadas con el método ghost-fluid. Se ha desarrollado un algoritmo explícito de interacción fluido / cuerpo. Se han documentado algunos casos de modo detallado con el objetivo de comprobar la capacidad del modelo para reproducir correctamente la disipación de energía y el movimiento del cuerpo. En particular se ha investigado la atenuación de una onda estacionaria, comparando la simulación numérica con predicciones teóricas. Se han realizado otras pruebas para monitorizar la disipación de energía para flujos más violentos que implican la fragmentación de la superficie libre. La cantidad de energía disipada con los diferentes términos se ha evaluado en los casos estudiados con el modelo numérico. Se han realizado otras pruebas numéricas para verificar la técnica de modelización de la interacción fluido / cuerpo, concretamente las fuerzas ejercidas por las olas en cuerpos con formas simples, y el equilibrio de un cuerpo flotante con una forma compleja. Una vez que el modelo numérico ha sido validado, se han realizado simulaciones numéricas para obtener una comprensión más completa de la física implicada en casos (casi) realistas sobre los había aspectos que no se conocían suficientemente. En primer lugar se ha estudiado el el flujo alrededor de un cilindro bajo la superficie libre. El estudio se ha realizado con un número de Reynolds moderado, para un rango de inmersiones del cilindro y números de Froude. La solución numérica permite una investigación de los patrones complejos que se producen. La estela del cilindro interactúa con la superficie libre. Se han identificado algunos inestabilidades características. El segundo estudio se ha realizado sobre el problema de sloshing, tanto experimentalmente como numéricamente. El análisis se restringe a aguas poco profundas y con oscilación horizontal, pero se ha estudiado un gran número de condiciones, lo que lleva a una comprensión bastante completa de los sistemas de onda involucradas. La última parte de la tesis trata también sobre un problema de sloshing pero esta vez el tanque está oscilando con rotación y hay acoplamiento con un sistema mecánico. El sistema se llama pendulum-TLD (Tuned Liquid Damper - con líquido amortiguador). Este tipo de sistema se utiliza normalmente para la amortiguación de las estructuras civiles. El análisis se ha realizado analíticamente, numéricamente y experimentalmente utilizando líquidos con viscosidades diferentes, centrándose en características no lineales y mecanismos de disipación. ABSTRA C T The subject of the present thesis is the interaction between a viscous fluid and a solid body in the presence of a free surface. The problem is expressed first theoretically with a particular focus on the energy conservation and the fluid-body interaction. The problem is considered 2D and monophasic, and some mathematical development allows for a decomposition of the energy dissipation into terms related to the Free Surface and others related to the enstrophy. The numerical model used on the thesis is based on Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH): a computational method that works by dividing the fluid into particles. Analogously to what is done at continuum level, the conservation properties are studied on the discrete system of particles. Additionally the boundary conditions for a moving body in a viscous flow are treated and discussed using the ghost-fluid method. An explicit algorithm for handling fluid-body coupling is also developed. Following these theoretical developments on the numerical model, some test cases are devised in order to test the ability of the model to correctly reproduce the energy dissipation and the motion of the body. The attenuation of a standing wave is used to compare what is numerically simulated to what is theoretically predicted. Further tests are done in order to monitor the energy dissipation in case of more violent flows involving the fragmentation of the free-surface. The amount of energy dissipated with the different terms is assessed with the numerical model. Other numerical tests are performed in order to test the fluid/body interaction method: forces exerted by waves on simple shapes, and equilibrium of a floating body with a complex shape. Once the numerical model has been validated, numerical tests are performed in order to get a more complete understanding of the physics involved in (almost) realistic cases. First a study is performed on the flow passing a cylinder under the free surface. The study is performed at moderate Reynolds numbers, for various cylinder submergences, and various Froude numbers. The capacity of the numerical solver allows for an investigation of the complex patterns which occur. The wake from the cylinder interacts with the free surface, and some characteristical flow mechanisms are identified. The second study is done on the sloshing problem, both experimentally and numerically. The analysis is restrained to shallow water and horizontal excitation, but a large number of conditions are studied, leading to quite a complete understanding of the wave systems involved. The last part of the thesis still involves a sloshing problem but this time the tank is rolling and there is coupling with a mechanical system. The system is named pendulum-TLD (Tuned Liquid Damper). This kind of system is normally used for damping of civil structures. The analysis is then performed analytically, numerically and experimentally for using liquids with different viscosities, focusing on non-linear features and dissipation mechanisms.

Improvement of theoretical storm characterization for different climate conditions

The different theoretical models related with storm wave characterization focus on determining the significant wave height of the peak storm, the mean period and, usually assuming a triangle storm shape, their duration. In some cases, the main direction is also considered. Nevertheless, definition of the whole storm history, including the variation of the main random variables during the storm cycle is not taken into consideration. The representativeness of the proposed storm models, analysed in a recent study using an empirical maximum energy flux time dependent function shows that the behaviour of the different storm models is extremely dependent on the climatic characteristics of the project area. Moreover, there are no theoretical models able to adequately reproduce storm history evolution of the sea states characterized by important swell components. To overcome this shortcoming, several theoretical storm shapes are investigated taking into consideration the bases of the three best theoretical storm models, the Equivalent Magnitude Storm (EMS), the Equivalent Number of Waves Storm (ENWS) and the Equivalent Duration Storm (EDS) models. To analyse the representativeness of the new storm shape, the aforementioned maximum energy flux formulation and a wave overtopping discharge structure function are used. With the empirical energy flux formulation, correctness of the different approaches is focussed on the progressive hydraulic stability loss of the main armour layer caused by real and theoretical storms. For the overtopping structure equation, the total volume of discharge is considered. In all cases, the results obtained highlight the greater representativeness of the triangular EMS model for sea waves and the trapezoidal (nonparallel sides) EMS model for waves with a higher degree of wave development. Taking into account the increase in offshore and shallow water wind turbines, maritime transport and deep vertical breakwaters, the maximum wave height of the whole storm history and that corresponding to each sea state belonging to its cycle's evolution is also considered. The procedure considers the information usually available for extreme waves' characterization. Extrapolations of the maximum wave height of the selected storms have also been considered. The 4th order statistics of the sea state belonging to the real and theoretical storm have been estimated to complete the statistical analysis of individual wave height

Measurement of community metabolism and significance in the coral reef CO2 source-sink debate

Two methods are commonly used to measure the community metabolism (primary production, respiration, and calcification) of shallow-water marine communities and infer air–sea CO2 fluxes: the pH-total alkalinity and pH-O2 techniques. The underlying assumptions of each technique are examined to assess the recent claim that the most widely used technique in coral reefs (pH-total alkalinity), may have provided spurious results in the past because of high rates of nitrification and release of phosphoric acid in the water column [Chisholm, J. R. M. & Barnes, D. J. (1998) Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA 95, 6566–6569]. At least three lines of evidence suggest that this claim is not founded. First, the rate of nitrification required to explain the discrepancy between the two methods recently reported is not realistic as it is much higher than the rates measured in another reef system and greater than the highest rate measured in a marine environment. Second, fluxes of ammonium, nitrate, and phosphorus are not consistent with high rates of nitrification and release of phosphoric acid. Third, the consistency of the metabolic parameters obtained by using the two techniques is in good agreement in two sites recently investigated. The pH-total alkalinity technique therefore appears to be applicable in most coral reef systems. Consequently, the conclusion that most coral reef flats are sources of CO2 to the atmosphere does not need revision. Furthermore, we provide geochemical evidence that calcification in coral reefs, as well as in other calcifying ecosystems, is a long-term source of CO2 for the atmosphere.

Paleoenvironmental changes during the late Miocene (Messinian)–Pliocene transition (Bajo Segura Basin, southeastern Spain): sedimentological and ichnological evidence

A detailed sedimentological and paleontological analysis of the uppermost Miocene (Messinian)–Pliocene boundary at the northern border of the Bajo Segura Basin, southeastern Spain, was carried out in order to describe the evolution of the regional paleocoastline during the Pliocene reflooding of the Mediterranean immediately after the sea-level fall related to the Messinian Salinity Crisis. Multiple trace fossils typical of firm- and hardgrounds were recognized, allowing identification of Glossifungites (two different types), Entobia, and Gnathichnus ichnofacies. Trace-fossil analysis showed that lithology and media consistency exerted considerable control on the development of the different ichnocoenoses and that there was a clear decrease in hydrodynamic energy from a coastal to a shallow-water shelf environment related to progressive sea-level rise. Ichnological and sedimentological data provide evidence that the definitive flooding of the Mediterranean was rapid and synchronous throughout the northern margin of the Bajo Segura Basin. The following model for the Pliocene transgression in the study area is therefore proposed: (1) the marine ingression penetrated along the incised paleovalleys carved as a consequence of the fall in sea level, where the first two Pliocene systems were deposited (P0–P1); (2) during the maximum flooding surface of the transgression, the sea overflowed the margins of the paleovalleys and extended throughout the entire northern margin of the basin; and (3) the third Pliocene system was deposited, forming the lower part of a highstand systems tract (P2).

Compositional signatures of the Cenozoic sedimentary succesions of the Malaguide Complex (Betic Cordillera, Spain)

The studied Cenozoic sedimentary successions consist of deposits from continental/shallow-water to deep-marine environments of the Malaguide Complex (Betic Cordillera) outcropping in the Sierra Espuña area (SE Spain). The aim of this study is to characterize the composition, source area(s) provenance and weathering processes of these sedimentary successions from the pre-orogenic (Paleocene-Early Oligocene) to the syn-orogenic (Late Oligocene-Early Miocene) stage using petrological and geochemical methodologies. The studied sandstones are mainly quartzolithic with abundant metamorphic and sedimentary lithic fragments. In particular, the composition of samples from the pre-orogenic cycle is mainly carbonate with important siliciclastic components that occur within the medium to fine grained arenites. The composition of samples from the syn-orogenic cycle is characterized by a sharp change from carbonate to siliciclastic terms. Thus, the composition of the overall sandstone samples is very heterogeneous and suggests a source area mainly characterized by the Malaguide basement and lower units of the Internal Betic Zone, that partially compose the Mesomediterranean Microplate. The geochemical proxies suggest a provenance mainly from felsic source area with a minor supply from mafic rocks in some samples of the syn-orogenic stage. Furthermore, palaeoweathering indices indicate low to moderate weathering conditions for the sources. The Cenozoic sedimentary successions of the Malaguide Complex played an important role in the geodynamic evolution of the Betic Cordillera that represents the key tectonic element of the western domains of the Mesomediterranean Microplate.

(Table T1) Strontium isotopic composition and ages of limestone samples from ODP Hole 180-1118A

Limestone from Unit VI (857.1-859.15 meters below seafloor) collected at Site 1118 contains a planktonic foraminiferal fauna indicating a latest Miocene to early Pliocene age. Globorotalia tumida is recorded in Sample 180-1118A-68R-4, 46-48 cm, indicating an early Pliocene (N18) age at this level (J. Resig, pers. comm., 2000). Based on their known range in the western Papuan Basin, the presence of (rare) Lepidocyclina and common Amphistegina in some samples suggests that abundant shallow-water bioclastic debris present in these limestones may be reworked from older, possibly middle or early late Miocene sediments. Four samples were selected for whole-rock strontium isotopic analysis to further investigate this possibility. A petrographic examination of samples analyzed was also conducted.

Sulfur-isotope analyses of gypsium samples from the Southeast Greenland margin, southern Alaska and Gulf of Alaska (Table 1)

Gypsum grains were identified in Miocene-Pleistocene sediment cores from two deep-water ODP sites, Site 918 off the SE Greenland margin and Site 887 in the Gulf of Alaska, and in Holocene sediment cores from shallow-water localities in Disenchantment Bay and Muir Inlet in southern Alaska. Although initial morphologic and textural observations suggested a complex system in which the gypsum may have had more than one origin, quantitative sulfur isotope analyses of the gypsum provide evidence of its detrital nature. d34S values in gypsum from southern Alaska range between +0.0 and +7.1 per mil. Gypsum has d34S values between -27.1 and -27.5 per mil in the Gulf of Alaska and values between -28.5 and +0.2 per mil off the SE Greenland margin. All of these isotopic signatures are too highly depleted in d34S to have precipitated from seawater, present or past. In addition there is no significant change in d34S values for gypsum crystals with differing physical characteristics (abraded vs. unabraded) from the same stratigraphic horizon, suggesting all the gypsum is detrital regardless of the degree of abrasion. The isotopic and physical evidence, in combination with the onshore geology the environmental setting, and site characteristics of the gypsum-bearing marine localities, lead us to propose that the ultimate source of the gypsum is precipitation from freeze-induced terrestrial sediment or soil brines. Furthermore the combined evidence suggests that the subsequent occurrence of gypsum in glacimarine sediments results from ice-rafting (by icebergs or sea ice) of the frozen regolith and/or, in the proximal glacimarine setting of southern Alaska, very rapid burial via turbidity currents.

Calcareous nannofossils in ODP Sites 135-840 and 135-841

Ocean Drilling Program Leg 135 drilled at two sites on the Tonga Ridge. Calcareous nannofossils recovered at Site 840 on the Tonga Ridge date the sedimentary sequence as late Pleistocene or Holocene (CN15) through late Miocene (CN9) in age. A hiatus occurs in the mid Pliocene. Site 841 in the Tonga Trench yielded a sedimentary sequence with nannofossils from middle Pleistocene Subzone CN14b through the middle or late Eocene Subzones CP14a-CP15b overlying a rhyolitic volcanic basement. Part of the Eocene interval contains the shallow-water nannofossil taxa Braarudosphaera, Micrantholithus, and Pemma. A major unconformity separates lower Oligocene Zone CP 16 from lower middle Miocene Zone CN4 strata.

Petrology and geochemistry of sideromelane glass shards from Pleistocene as layers north and south of Gran Canaria

Major elements, S, F, Cl concentrations and relative proportions of S6+ to total S were analyzed with electron microprobe in sideromelane glass shards from Pleistocene volcaniclastic sediments drilled during ODP Leg 157. Glasses are moderately to strongly evolved and represent a spectrum from alkali basalt, basanite and nephelinite through hawaiite, mugearite and tephrite to phonolitic tephrite. Measured S6+/SumS (0.03±0.98) and calculated Fe2+/Fe3+ (2.5±5.8) ratios in the melt yield preeruptive redox conditions ranging from NNO-1.4 to NNO+2.1. The morphology of the glass shards, variations of S and Cl concentrations (0.010±0.127 wt% S, 0.018±0.129 wt% Cl), calculated preeruptive temperatures (1030±1200 °C) and oxygen fugacities suggest that glasses deposited even within the same ash layers have diverse origin and may have resulted from both submarine and subaerial eruptions. Most vesicle-free glasses are characterized by high concentrations of S and represent undegassed or slightly degassed submarine lavas, whereas vesiculated glasses with low concentrations of S and Cl are strongly degassed and can be ascribed to the eruptions in shallow water or on land. Sideromelane glass shards at Sites 953 are thought to have resulted from submarine eruptions northeast of Gran Canaria, glasses at Site 954 represent mostly volcaniclastic material of shallow water submarine and subaerial eruptions on Gran Canaria and Tenerife, and glasses deposited at Site 956 resulted from submarine or explosive eruptions on Tenerife.

(Table 1) Stable-isotopes of mineral separates and whole-rock powders from altered volcanic rocks of DSDP Hole 62-465A

Hess Rise, in the western Pacific Ocean, formed in the mid-Cretaceous south of the equator and moved north with the Pacific Plate (Lancelot and Larson, 1975; Lancelot, 1978; Valuer et al., 1979). Southern Hess Rise was a volcanic archipelago, at least until late Albian time, after which it subsided to become one of the major aseismic rises in the present western Pacific. A second pulse of volcanic activity apparently occurred in the Campanian-Maastrichtian interval, which may be related to tectonic uplift of Hess Rise (Valuer and Jefferson, this volume). Trachytic rocks underlie 412 meters of carbonate sediments at Site 465 on southern Hess Rise. Twenty-four meters of trachyte were recovered from a 64-meter cored interval. The rocks are relatively homogeneous in texture, color, and composition, indicating that the cored sequence was probably part of only one magmatic event (Seifert et al., this volume). Large (> 5-mm) vesicles and oxidized parts of some flows suggest subaerial or shallow-water extrusions. The rocks are high in silica and relatively rich in Na2O, K2O, and light rare-earth elements. The upper part of the volcanic-rock sequence is a breccia, the fragments cemented by calcite, pyrite, and rare barite. Some of the resultant veins are more than 1 cm thick. In addition to the veins, many vesicles are also filled with these minerals. Brecciation and the number and thickness of veins decrease with depth in the hole. The degree of weathering, as indicated by water content, also decreases with depth.