Good and bad institutions:is the debate over? Cross-country firm-level evidence from the textile industry

Using firm-level data from nine developing countries, we demonstrate that certain institutions, like restrictive labour market regulations, that are considered bad for economic growth might be beneficial for production efficiency, whereas good business environment, which is considered beneficial for economic growth, might have an adverse impact on production efficiency. We argue that our results suggest that there might be significant difference in the macro- and micro-impacts of institutional quality, such that the classification of institutions into 'good' and 'bad might be premature. © The Author 2013. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of the Cambridge Political Economy Society. All rights reserved.

Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Woven cultures : New insights into Pictish and Viking culture contact using the implements of textile production

This paper is based on the undergraduate dissertation of Lindsey Stirling, which was supervised by Karen Milek, and which won the Society of Medieval Archaeology's John Hurst Memorial Dissertation Prize Acknowledgements This research would not have been possible without the assistance of Dr Martin Goldberg at the National Museum of Scotland, Lynda Aiano at Tankerness House Museum, Orkney, and Beverley Ballin Smith. The authors also wish to thank the two anonymous reviewers who provided valuable comments on earlier versions of this paper.

Women in the Global Clothing and Textile Industry

This paper examines the current role of women in the clothing and textile industry through oral history of South African union members. I argue that the industry’s particularly exploitative environment is directly related to both gender and globalization, acting together to worsen conditions in factories. Additionally, I argue that the more recent addition of an increasingly consumer-driven industry structure also impacts its abusive environment. Unionization, along with public and private regulation, have the potential to be catalysts for change in the industry. To be most effective, these organizations need to take into account both gender and globalization, and recognize the equal impacts both have when making decisions.

Disruptive Threads and Renegade Yarns: Domestic Textile Making in Selected Women's Writing 1811-1925

Images of domestic textiles (items made at home for consumption within the household) and textile making form an important subtext to women’s writing, both during and after industrialization. Through a close reading of five novels from the period 1811-1925, this thesis will assert that a detailed understanding of textile work and its place in women’s daily lives is critical to a deeper understanding of social, sexual and political issues from a woman’s perspective. The first chapter will explore the history of the relationship between women and domestic textile making, and the changes wrought to the latter by the Industrial Revolution. The second chapter will examine the role of embroidery in the construction of “appropriate” feminine gentility in Jane Austen’s Mansfield Park (1814). The third chapter, on Elizabeth Gaskell’s Cranford (1853), will explore how the older female body became a repository for anxieties about class mobility and female power at the beginning of the Victorian era. The fourth chapter will compare Sara Jeannette Duncan’s A Social Departure (1890) and Kate Chopin’s The Awakening (1899) to consider how later Victorian women both internalized and refuted public narratives of domestic textile making in a quest for “self-ownership.” The last chapter, on Martha Ostenso’s Wild Geese (1925), examines the corrosive, yet ultimately redemptive, relationships of a family of women trapped by abuse and degradation. For all five authors, images of textiles and textile making allow them to speak to issues that were usually only discussed within a community of women: sexuality, desire, aging, marriage, and motherhood. In all five works, textile making “talks back” to the power structures that marginalize women, and lends insight into the material and emotional circumstances of women’s lives.

Acoustic absorption of hemp-lime construction

Hemp-lime concrete is a sustainable alternative to standard wall construction materials. It boasts excellent hygrothermal properties in part deriving from its porous structure. This paper investigates the acoustic properties of hemp-lime concrete, using binders developed from hydrated lime and pozzolans as well as hydraulic and cementicious binders. To assess the acoustic absorption of hemp-lime walls, as they are commonly finished in practical construction, wall sections are rendered and the resulting impact on absorption is evaluated. Hemp-concretes with lime-pozzolan binders display superior acoustic properties relative to more hydraulic binders. These are diminished when rendered, as the open surface porosity is affected, however hemp-lime construction offers the potential to meet standard and guideline targets for spaces requiring acoustic treatment.

Endverbindungen für dynamisch belastete textile Zugmittel

Hochfeste Faserseile sind aufgrund ihrer hohen spezifischen Festigkeit prädestiniert für dynamische Anwendungen in der Fördertechnik. Der Kenntnisstand über die Zeitfestigkeit zugehöriger Endverbindungen zur Krafteinleitung ist jedoch unzureichend. Gegenstand der vorgelegten Arbeit ist die Entwicklung einer für die Anwendung von hochfesten Faserseilen geeigneten Prüfvorschrift sowie die vergleichende Untersuchung bekannter Endverbindungen für hochfeste Faserseile im Zugschwellversuch.

Exploring Perceptual Matters: A Textile-Based Approach

This research takes a practice-based approach to exploring perceptual matters that often go unnoticed in the context of everyday lived experience. My approach focuses on the experiential possibilities of knowledge emerging through artistic enquiry, and uses a variety of modes (like textiles, sound, physical computing, programming, video and text) to be conducted and communicated. It examines scholarship in line with the ecological theory of perception, and is particularly informed by neurobiological research on sensory integration as well as by cultural theories that examine the role of sensory appreciation in perception. Different processes contributing to our perceptual experience are examined through the development of a touch-sensitive, sound-generating rug and its application in an experimental context. Participants’ interaction with the rug and its sonic output allows an insight into how they make sense of multisensory information via observation of how they physically respond to it. In creating possibilities for observing the two ends of the perceptual process (sensory input and behavioural output), the rug provides a platform for the study of what is intangible to the observer (perceptual activity) through what can actually be observed (physical activity). My analysis focuses on video recordings of the experimental process and data reports obtained from the software used for the sound generating performance of the rug. Its findings suggest that attentional focus, active exploration, and past experience actively affect the ability to integrate multisensory information and are crucial parameters for the formation of a meaningful percept upon which to act. Although relational to the set experimental conditions and the specificities of the experimental group, these findings are in resonance with current cross-disciplinary discourse on perception, and indicate that art research can be incorporated into the wider arena of neurophysiological and behavioural research to expand its span of resources and methods.

Hemp fines - an agricultural by-product for biocomposites? A holistic approach

The technical, environmental and economic potential of hemp fines as a natural filler in bioplastics to produce biocomposites is the subject of this study – giving a holistic overview. Hemp fines are an agricultural by-product of the hemp fibres and shives production. Shives and fibres are for example used in the paper, animal bedding or composite area. About 15 to 20 wt.-% per kg hemp straw results in hemp fines after processing. In 2010 about 11,439 metric tons of hemp fines were produced in Europe. Hemp fines are an inhomogeneous material which includes hemp dust, shives and fibre. For these examinations the hemp fines are sieved in a further step with a tumbler sieving machine to obtain more specified fractions. The untreated hemp fines (ex work) as well as the sieved fractions are combined with a polylactide polymer (PLA) using a co-rotating twin screw extruder to produce biocomposites with different hemp fine content. By using an injection moulding machine standard test bars are produced to conduct several material tests. The Young’s modulus is increased and the impact strength reduced by hemp fines. With a content of above 15 wt.-% hemp fines are also improving the environmental (global warming potential) and economic performance in comparison to pure PLA.

Delivering Regional Extension in Qld Farming Systems - Central Queensland

The CQ Cotton Regional Extension project has been a key to the delivery of emerging, cutting edge research information and knowledge to the Central Queensland cotton industry. The direct relevance of southern research to cotton production under the conditions experienced in CQ always has been an issue which could be addressed through regional assessment and adaptation. The project links the national research to the region through development and extension, with a strong focus on the major industry production issues including but not limited to disease, Integrated Pest Management (IPM), soils, nutrition and integrated weed management. Susan Mass has supported the implementation of national industry-wide programs particularly the industry Best Management Practices program (myBMP). This project has successfully transitioned to a focus on delivering national outcomes in target lead areas as part of National Development and Delivery Team established by Cotton CRC, CRDC and Cotton Australia, while maintaining a regional extension presence for Central Queensland cotton & grain farming systems. Susan Mass has very effectively merged and integrated strong regional extension support to cotton growers in Central Queensland with delivery of industry extension priorities across the entire industry in the Development and Delivery Team model. Susan is the target lead for disease and farm hygiene. Recognising the challenges of having regionally relevant research in Central Queensland, this project has facilitated locally based research including boll rot, Bt cotton resistance management, and mealybug biology through strong collaborations. This collaborative approach has included linkage to Department of Environment and Resource Managmeent (DERM) groups and myBMP programs resulting in a high uptake in CQ.

Winter sowing for more reliable boll filling in Central Queensland

The Central Highlands region has a unique climate that presents both challenges and novel farming systems opportunities for cotton production. We have been re-examining the Emerald climate in a bid to identify opportunities that might enable the production of more consistent cotton yields and quality in what can be a highly variable climate. A detailed climatic analysis identified that spring and early summer is the most optimal period for boll growth and maturation. However, to unlock this potential requires unseasonal winter sowing that is 4 to 6 weeks earlier than the traditional mid-September sowing. Our experiments have sought answers to two questions: i) how much earlier can cotton be sown for reliable crop establishment and high yield; ii) can degradable plastic film mulches minimise the impact of potentially cold temperatures on crop establishment and early vigour. Initial data suggests August sowing offers the potential to grow a high yield at a time of year with reduced risk of cloud and high night temperatures during boll growth. For the past two seasons late winter sowing (with and without film) has resulted in a compact plant with high retention that physiologically matures by the beginning of January. Even with the spectre of replanting cotton in some seasons due to frost in August, early sowing would appear to offer the opportunity for more efficient crop input usage, simplified agronomic management and new crop rotation options during late summer and autumn. This talk will present an overview of results to date.

What influences fungal communities in cotton soils

Soilborne diseases such as Fusarium wilt, Black root rot and Verticillium wilt have significant impact on cotton production. Fungi are an important component of soil biota with capacity to affect pathogen inoculum levels and their disease causing potential. Very little is known about the soil fungal community structure and management effects in Australian cotton soils. We analysed surface soils from ongoing field experiments monitoring cotton performance and disease incidence in three cotton growing regions, collected prior to 2013 planting, for the genetic diversity and abundance as influenced by soil type, environment and management practices and link it with disease incidence and suppression. Results from the 28S LSU rRNA sequencing based analysis indicated a total of 370 fungal genera in all the cotton soils and the top 25 genera in abundance accounted for the major portion of total fungal community. There were significant differences in the composition and genetic diversity of soil fungi between the different field sites from the three cotton growing regions. Results for diversity indices showed significantly greater diversity in the long-term crop rotation experiment at Narrabri (F6E) and experiments at Cowan and Goondiwindi compared to the Biofumigation and D1 field experiments at ACRI, Narrabri. Diversity was lowest in the soils under brassica crop rotation in Biofumigation experiment. Overall, the diversity and abundance of soil fungal community varied significantly in the three cotton growing regions indicating soil type and environmental effects. These results suggest that changes in soil fungal community may play a notable role in soilborne disease incidence in cotton.