A thermistor probe for measuring particle orbital speed in water waves /

"March 1964."

Measuring directional velocity in water waves with an acoustic flowmeter /

"April 1970."

Canal bank erosion due to wind-generated water waves : progress report I /

Mode of access: Internet.

Theory of small aspect ratio waves in deep water

In the limit of small values of the aspect ratio parameter (or wave steepness) which measures the amplitude of a surface wave in units of its wave-length, a model equation is derived from the Euler system in infinite depth (deep water) without potential flow assumption. The resulting equation is shown to sustain periodic waves which on the one side tend to the proper linear limit at small amplitudes, on the other side possess a threshold amplitude where wave crest peaking is achieved. An explicit expression of the crest angle at wave breaking is found in terms of the wave velocity. By numerical simulations, stable soliton-like solutions (experiencing elastic interactions) propagate in a given velocities range on the edge of which they tend to the peakon solution. (c) 2005 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Evolution equation for short surface waves on water of finite depth

Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP)

Stable three-dimensional biperiodic waves in shallow water /

"February 1988."

Theory and calculation of the nonlinear energy transfer between sea waves in deep water /

"May 1982."

Maximum wave heights and critical water depths for irregular waves in the surf zone /

"February 1980."

Transformation of monochromatic waves from deep to shallow water /

"August 1980."

Energy losses of waves in shallow water /

"February 1982."

Wind set-up and waves in shallow water.

Mode of access: Internet.

Water gravity waves generated by a moving low pressure area /

Mode of access: Internet.

Model study of water gravity waves generated by moving circular low pressure area /

Mode of access: Internet.

Use of Abel integral equations in water wave scattering by two surface-piercing barriers

In this paper the classical problem of water wave scattering by two partially immersed plane vertical barriers submerged in deep water up to the same depth is investigated. This problem has an exact but complicated solution and an approximate solution in the literature of linearised theory of water waves. Using the Havelock expansion for the water wave potential, the problem is reduced here to solving Abel integral equations having exact solutions. Utilising these solutions,two sets of expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients are obtained in closed forms in terms of computable integrals in contrast to the results given in the literature which,involved six complicated integrals in terms of elliptic functions. The two different expressions for each coefficient produce almost the same numerical results although it has not been possible to prove their equivalence analytically. The reflection coefficient is depicted against the wave number in a number of figures which almost coincide with the figures available in the literature wherein the problem was solved approximately by employing complementary approximations. (C) 2009 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.

Trapped waves in the neighborhood of a sonic-type singularity

A model equation is derived to study trapped nonlinear waves with a turning effect, occurring in disturbances induced on a two-dimensional steady flow. Only unimodal disturbances under the short wave assumption are considered, when the wave front of the induced disturbance is plane. In the neighbourhood of certain special points of sonic-type singularity, the disturbances are governed by a single first-order partial differential equation in two independent variables. The equation depends on the steady flow through three parameters, which are determined by the variations of velocity and depth, for example (in the case of long surface water waves), along and perpendicular to the wave front. These parameters help us to examine various relative effects. The presence of shocks in a continuously accelerating or decelerating flow has been studied in detail.